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RyanD
climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
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Some great stuff on that last page. Thanks everyone.
I haven't added climbing stuff here forever but here's a few shots of a new climb up at Quercus cliff @ murrin that my friend Jay and I did the other day.
It was funny, as we had finished cleaning and the roshambo for the lead (which I won after quadruple scissor standoff) Harry walked up to the crag. I decided to give him the lead for all the pitches and efforts he's put into putting up a massive slew of quality routes for us. But He didn't really want it since he was taking a rest day, but after some prodding we sent him off for a ground up, onsight, FA attempt. He put in a great effort but didn't quite get it. Jay and I climbed it after and I think it's a pretty fun, pumpy climbing with some really perfect stone and good gear. The nice part was that we didn't need to place any bolts and it's probably the most splitter crack on the cliff, I may be biased tho :-) Chris H showed up and flashed it after too which was cool!
The moustache woman
11a? 30m
Start left of the glass slipper about 10m and climb up ledgy corners to a spooky step left below the tree ledge on the arete. Once on the ledge its good to back clean if u can and sling the tree long before stepping out right on the face and following the nice splitter hand traverse all the way to "the man from del monte" chains.
Lower and clean on tr.
enjoy!
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Jun 25, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Would there be a lot of freeclimbers on U-Wall these days? What are the odds of it being free on a sunny weekend? Don't wanna get into a fustercluck if there's people all over it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 25, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
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Whoo Hoo! Well done Ryan. That looks very nice.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jun 25, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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Blessings on Ryan for making Harry appear on this thread in such a fine way.
Thanks for the route, too.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2015 - 04:32pm PT
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Very nice to see you post here Ryan! Thanks for those awesome pics! We should tie in soon. I'll give you a ring when i get back.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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I'm lying in bed. Absolutely bagged from my trip, but still dreaming of the Apron...
Have fun out there today boys and girls!!!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 27, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Mike, did you just change the photo in the above post? Glacier Point Apron morphed into Squamish?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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Tami- seems like a good day to check out the valley of shade?? ;)
Haha Glenn, yes you caught my boo boo. I had the bath rock shot still in my clipboard at first....
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jun 28, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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Strange.
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quantum7
Trad climber
Squamish
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Jun 28, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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When its too hot in Squamish to crag, this is how we do...
[photo[photoid=416232]id=416231]
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jun 29, 2015 - 08:08am PT
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BJ, actually made me lol. Nice one.
This is how I've been beating the heat and getting my climbing fix at the same time.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
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Nice work Quantum!
Lol eric. You rule!
Nathan- that looks like fun!
So i got out this morning despite the heat. Showed a new buddy around the bluffs a bit and this rig was calling my name. Shining in the sun....
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ajamunro
Social climber
BC
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Hope you didn't get too crispy on that Big Mike!
I got chewed out for asking a guy not to smoke in the forest today.
It would seem to me to be a really good idea to not smoke in these tinder dry forests, right?
I dunno, he made me feel bad but I'm pretty sure I had the best intentions.
Perhaps someone here could reach out to the access society, or parks, and get them to put some no smoking signs up on the poster boards?
I used to smoke, so I know it sucks being told to butt out, and that "I'm never going to start the forest fire"... but greater good, and all that?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Wow, Mike! That may be the driest I have ever seen that route. Surely it wasn't entirely dry?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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Hope you didn't get too crispy on that Big Mike!
Nah. We climbed the 5.6 around the corner instead.. Lol I've learned to ignore some things calling my name. I tron'd this rig one day before i split my spine in two, but i never led it and i'm a few grades away from pulling it still these days, but it feels more within my reach which is nice to report.
Smoking near accelerants in these tinder dry conditions is not necessarily the smartest idea to be certain. Won't be long if this heat keeps up before the fsr's are shuttered for fire concerns.
There are plenty of open spaces where accelerants aren't a problem.
Lol Jim.
Andy- if you look closely you can see some small patches at the bottom, but it was pretty darn dry for sure. Would be a great evening project. I would love to shoot it! ;) sorry i haven't got to your photo yet. This week has been pretty crazy..
Eric- what did you do to these aussies to make em chase you with hammers?? ;)
Frigging horse crap. The worst. I approached one of the tour leaders to ask about it awhile back and they told me they always pick it up. When we finished our climb, we passed the same spot again, where one of their horses had defecated within minutes of our conversation...
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markr
Trad climber
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Hey Big Mike, that crack looks amazing. What is that rig, is it Elephantiasis?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
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First of all i'd like to extend a proper welcome to ajamunroe. Your first post was swept under the rug by the bruce kay banning and I must apologize for missing you then. 2nd post and I hope we see more.
Markr! It is indeed my friend. Hit it up, you won't be disapointed. Just bring some extra gear and you'll be all good. The fists on it are absolutely incredible.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 11:55pm PT
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Took my buddy Tony out today to learn to crack climb. He's done some sport climbing in spain but after a horrible accident involving rockfall in the mountains he swore off trad climbing for good. I baited him with some bolts at chek before i went to cor, and promised to introduce him to some easy crack the next time out.
He asked me if we were going climbing this week at work and i said "heck ya!"
We hit up mcm (5.6) this morning and he led it after he top roped it. Then i stuck him on the slab 10b beside mcm just to confuse him a little and then Heather came out and nearly floated it, which confounded him even more! Lol
We ate lunch at the farmers market for some local culture and then headed off to murrin for some shady climbs and a dip to cool off.
Here he is "opening" a nice moderate.. Any guesses where?
I got him all stoked on climbing the apron now! ;)
[evil laugh on] Hahahahahahahaha!!! [/evil laugh off]
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I'd guess where, only it wouldn't be a guess.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2015 - 08:37am PT
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Why Andy? Did you see me there or it's because you know me so well.. Lol
I am rather predictable...
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