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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
Sounds like it's right up your alley. Me (10d leader max) and another 5.11- climber did it last spring in 4.5-5 hours around? that's if you get off at bellygood ledge.

I was gassed by the last pitch, the sail flake, and fell off after i removed the last piece. Ended up dangling there so i prussiked up the rope to the next piece. lol

Lots of sustained crack climbing. you'll love it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
7000!!! wooohoo!
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
You snagged it, nice!

Me and you are probably similar then as far as climbing ability.

I stated what I can do on gear above but in all honest 10D at the Gunks can kick my ass on the sharp end. In Nh for some reason I can do that but its work and full commitment.

Sport I can on sight 11A normally and then work 12's although I really only get a handful of 12's under my belt a season and they are normally gym and sport routes. Actually they are always gym and sport routes...

Whatever I am climbing that flake!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
LoL ya we would have been on par. I suffered a major setback last year tho so right now i'm lucky to climb 10b.. lol i'm working on it though. by the time your heel is good i'll be ready.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
When I did it we got stuck behind a slow party. I led the Split Pillar straight in, sussing each piece, like a man... my partner had done it 10 or so times and claims he liebacks the whole thing, blindly stuffing 3-4 blue cameltwats in for pro... "it is 5.11, no way I'm going to fall." I was wedging all kinds of body parts by the time I got to the top and resisted liebacking on moral grounds.

He aided through some bolts at the top of the pillar, assuring me it sucked to climb, then gave me Perry's. We finished on the Black Dike (a bit heady).

Pretty sure we didn't start before 10 and we were down in time for a snack, a couple beers, and an evening of bouldering.

Squshami is awesome! I mean... it really sucks and nobody should ever go there.
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
Yeah I have Leto track of your I injury. Being this is my favorite ST thread it was kinda hard to miss.

I just made a profile when I got hurt but I have lurked for at least a couple years?

Had a trip planned out that way late summer, I think I said that already but that has since changed.

I gotta get myself out there and soon thought. I did the whole Rockies ice trip last winter and fell in love. I have a feeling I will feel the same way about Squamish. You all would ne have me, I gotta even get my papers straight to make sure they don't try and turn me around at the border again.
Sanskara

climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:57pm PT
Me thanks for the info, I am sure later tonight I will read that like 20 times and store the info away..
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 12:40am PT
lol Wes. Nice story. Thanks. Your friend was right, unless you're fond of 13b slab. Come on back up some time!

Being this is my favorite ST thread it was kinda hard to miss.


Thanks for the compliment. You'll love it up here, hope you sort the papers out.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 01:14am PT
Wednesday I hooked up with Bearbreeder. Being that it was still a little nippy until the sun came around, we decided to crag at the smoke bluffs a little before heading up the apron.

First we did Flying Circus 10a

Eric Chan Photo

Muscle memory got me through this one although it wasn't pretty.

Then he put up Neat and Cool 10a

Eric Chan Photo

This one kicked my ass. I came off a couple times before grabbing a draw to help me through the move. still need more training.

Next climb up was the Edge 5.9

Eric Chan Photo

I should have wore my edging shoes for this one! My mythos didn't cut it.

With warm-ups we adjourned to the apron to tackle our main objective for the day, Calculus Crack.

Me coming up the second pitch

Eric Chan Photo

I took what i thought was my wallet out of my pocket and left it in the car, but it turned out I actually left my phone in the car and brought my wallet climbing, so no pictures of Eric!

Third pitch was my lead. I love running it out on those amazing jams!

Eric Chan Photo

Eric took the next lead and dispatched it with no trouble, however, for his opening piece just off the belay, he slotted a nut, and clipped it with a single locker. The piece was a couple feet off the belay, just far enough so that i had to step up on to some crappy smears and fight the nut which had of course wedged itself completely sideways in the finger crack directly below my hold.

To make matters worse my nut tool was buried in a clusterfvck of gear so i had to dig through it with one hand while desperately trying to hold on with the other. I managed to get it out and give it a good tap after a couple unintentional attempts at slitting my wrists with the abortion tool.

After that the crux seemed kind of alien, even though i did it again this summer, but i think i was just a little rattled after having to deal with that nut.. lol

Coming up to the notch belay.

Eric Chan Photo

I led the last pitch and dragged Bearbreeder on simul to the tree at the top for the last 20 easy meters. I really didn't want to set up another belay! lol.

Eric wanted to rap down Bad Pants Party and avoid the walk off.

Eric Chan photo

Starting the first rappel

Eric Chan photo

It was another beautiful day out, and nice to get on the chief for a change.

Thanks Eric!!
Sanskara

climber
Apr 5, 2014 - 01:26am PT
The papers are fine just gotta get them...

I'm a lazy bum about sh#t like that. I'll get em, it's something to do instead of watch old Dukes Of Hazard and I Dream Of Jeannie reruns all day...

Looks like you had the worst day ever!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 5, 2014 - 01:50am PT
Pretty sure we didn't start before 10 and we were down in time for a snack, a couple beers, and an evening of bouldering.

Last time I climbed the Grand it was a hot mid-summer day, so we started (that is, woke up) at about 6. The sun broke over the rim just as Robert pulled the last move onto Bellygood. So probably less than five hours on the climb. If Robert had been climbing it with someone on his level, it would have taken about 2 hours. Hamish and Peder climbed it five times one day, and that was with a break in the afternoon to let a rain shower pass.

The real secret is just being physically fit and confident.



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
Nice Dave. That's the truth. Being in good shape really helps.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Apr 5, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
Re: The Sword being sustained - it isn't sustained at the grade, but it's a bit of a head game the whole way through. Two cruxes, the first gives it the 11a, the second is an endurance sprint. For me, the crux of the entire pitch is focusing on the pitch and not the ~600 feet of air below you. My first time I went to lead it we ended up retreating cause it was heady. Now I can go up and enjoy the exposure, which there is plenty of.

As Mike says, it's meat and potatoes..... I don't think there's a tricky move on the entire Grand route. It's in your face the entire time. Very deserving of it's classic status. Hoping to get on it in the next month or so if and when we get a sunny dry stretch if anyone is interested.
Sanskara

climber
Apr 5, 2014 - 03:03pm PT
Well heady in your face, muscly and strong is what I have to bring to the table. If you are looking for finesse and graceful movement all bets are off!. 600 feet of exposure does not really bother me tbh. Well at least once I am moving very little bothers me, fear just tends to fade into nothing.

For me it will probably be the 11A parts that pose the biggest problem. I rarely pull on gear or take hangs unless I am risking getting really really hurt if I don't. Most of the time I just go for and figure out a way to just make it happen and not f*#k up. Plus those falls look stupid clean at least on the pitch we are talking about so chances are I will want to just go for it. My best guess saiz that is easier said than done and I pull on some gear ;(
Sanskara

climber
Apr 5, 2014 - 03:10pm PT
All cylinders firing on a good day if its strong and not technical climbing and I really really want it I might insight an 11A. If not I might take a couple falls then pull on some gear.

Gotta do something about this hoof before it matters anyway. Gotta have my ducks in order with regard to what I am doing though once the hoof is better. Bet your ass it won't be wasting much time on ST...

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 5, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
This is a waste of time??

Sanskara

climber
Apr 5, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
Saturday at the grocery store. Completely foreign concept to me. Looks like it's what most do on Saturday though?

Credit: Sanskara

No this is a waste of time ;)
Sanskara

climber
Apr 5, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
Bruce you talking to me..
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
^^^^^ LOL!!! I'd say the time i've put in here has payed off big time over the past year... The support i've received has been priceless and well worth all the hours spent at the computer.
Sanskara

climber
Apr 5, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
Mike,

If u feel I am compromising your thread please say so..!

Love it would never want to f*#k it up in any way.
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