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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
Awesome Dave! 50 bucks!! Can't beat that!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 23, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
Summer is totally over. The only question remaining is stay on the diminishing odds of dry rock coinciding with days off or bolt for southern climes like that Mike Cow-pie fella. It seems a little early to dash south but in fact climate trends have favored wetter falls in the Pacific Northwest so maybe those of us stuck here need to get used to it. As the euphemistic term of shoulder season lengthens so does the problem of what to do without skiing or climbing.

There is fishing, which reminds me of a good yarn..... One rainy fall day myself and Dan Redford found ourselves over at Pat Posts place up on Perth where he had soon convinced us to go down to the Chekamus river to slay a few coho. Pat had recently taken to fishing with his usual over the top enthusiasm and the fact that there were 100 half dead chums to 1 silver coho meant nothing to him even when barbecued. Still, with nothing else going on before long there we were snagging old dogs and trying to convince Pat to fling them back in. This was all mildly amusing for maybe an hour and soon talk turned to the bar but Pat would have none of it. He was allowed four a day and maybe a few more if no one was looking.

Dans half feral dog Vito was also having fun but the swift current was blocking all his attempts at his own harvest. After a while, with much reluctance on Pat and Vito's part we started heading for the car..... unfortunately as it turned out, right past the tranquil waters of the spawning channels.

Well Vito's eyes lit right up. Before we knew it he was in the water and waging a holy Jihad like he was born for it. Fish were flying but for every one he shredded there was a fresh target just begging for it. Up and down he went wrecking holly terror all while Danny yelled "NO VITO NO!!" over and over to no avail. Pat and I were pissing ourselves laughing mostly at Danny's useless command of his out of control dog but after a while we were all getting a little concerned that someone might stumble upon us. soon we were all trying to corral the dog but he wasn't interested. He was in there a full 20 minutes and the pond started looking like the dolphin massacre they do in Japan before he finally crawled up exhausted but grinning ear to ear.

We quickly skulked away more than a little shocked at the bloodlust. A few years later Vito gained a certain amount of notoriety amongst the MEC gortex and wool crowd - and admiration from the guides - when as part of a mountaineering course, Vito once again demonstrated how to properly fillet a marmot right in front of a large group of paying clients. Danny and whoever else was there were only concerned that the fresh meat not go to waste but the highups back in Vancouver had other concerns, apparently. I think that was the last time dogs were invited to attend FMCBC climbing courses.

Some dogs are too afraid of their own shadow to follow through properl...
Some dogs are too afraid of their own shadow to follow through properly
Credit: Bruce Kay

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 23, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
Fresh snow and low freezing levels 'round Squamish (even Omega had a dusting today) mean the Scots would say it's legit "winter conditions"
better sharpen yer poons
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Sep 23, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
Great Vito story Bruce and dam that young gun Jim, how the hell does he get pipes like that!

What's all this talk about snow, the season is just getting started down here at JT.

I found some ratty old tri cams on my rack last week , yours from when we climbed in Skaha? I have to return to the Great White North and serve a few months penance before they allow back to the land of eternal sunshine, I'll make sure those units get back to you.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Nice story Bruce, but how did you know my elementary school nickname?? ;)

Anyone else thinking thanksgiving skaha trip???
gf

climber
Sep 23, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Good story Bruce -speaking of old dogs returning to or from the sea -we should have snagged a shot of you making a guest appearance at the shining sea traverse last saturday after belting down a stout G and T mixed up by my 12 yr old, who it should be noted finds even the smell of any alcohol repelling.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 23, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
The rain may cometh so we should all have Skanksgiving in Penticton. See you there.
MH2

climber
Sep 26, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Fine day today


Rolfr

Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
Sep 26, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
A routes waiting for you at Skaha Mike, I will be up in Princeton but will come down for the day if you want to take a few burns on it. After all it's sport climbing and working routes is part of the game.
Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
Sep 30, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
I'm hoping to get up The Sheriffs Badge this weekend, the climbing ain't over....
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 30, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
With this sequence of storms coming into the coast you might well live up to yer name, o Fish Boy.

But honestly? I'm hopin' fer fine wx so you don't hafta bring yer swim fins.


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 30, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
Yeah fishboy,

Goin climbing in Squamish this weekend? Don't forget to bring a towel.
Goin climbing in Squamish this weekend? Don't forget to bring a towel.
Credit: RyanD



Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 1, 2013 - 09:09am PT
It wouldn't be the first mid monsoon assault on the badge. I remember well the Armenian / Castlegar / Burnaby variation..... unfortunately they took a left when they should have gone right which led to much puzzlement about the lack of A3 in the continuous line of perfect finger and hand size cracks which if it wasn't for the inclement conditions, iron rack and haul bags could have provided some delectable free climbing.

It didn't matter in the end as even the shelter of the big roof can't keep the rain away for long and hypothermia comes quick when sitting for hours in slings and the first thing to go along with mental function is hand function, which really sucks when its time to bail.... and bail you must as topping out really isn't going to happen!

Technical crux in Monsoon conditions is pitch 2.... a seventy degree s...
Technical crux in Monsoon conditions is pitch 2.... a seventy degree slab of gelatinous black ooze protected by a single badly decomposed 1/4 incher.

5.7r when dry. 5.14d when wet.
Credit: Bruce Kay

Fortunately there is a plethora of alternate shoulder season activities. Travel is best but more locally one can of course go snag a few humpbacks, explore the Squamish library, visit the big smoke, do the culture crawl of all those fine but neglected establishments throughout town..... Mountain Burger house, Locust garden, Cliffside, Chieftan, Harolds Auto Wrecking.... The more spiritual can turn to the many perveyors of salvation throughout town - or maybe they will even come to you! Or you may find it comuning with nature, werner or....


Do what the squirrels do.....
Do what the squirrels do.....
Credit: Bruce Kay
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 1, 2013 - 09:15am PT
Good ideas Bruce, think I'll just stay in bed & talk sh#t on supertopo until I go to work. Speaking of marine life, a few tuna swam past me on the smoke bluff loop yesterday.



Locust garden?! Are u nuts?!?!


Fortune kitten is a much more quality Asian culinary venue.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 1, 2013 - 09:26am PT
I thought you were slaying it down south?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 1, 2013 - 09:45am PT
No Bruce, I wish. I was only able to go for a week, got back on Friday.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 1, 2013 - 10:12am PT
where can i hire a caribou to prefilter those 'nitas thru the kidneys for me?
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 1, 2013 - 11:09am PT
^^^

Just gobble them down and drink your own pee. Any good Siberian Shaman worth his salt will tell you that. You think Caribou grow on trees?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 1, 2013 - 11:23am PT
^^^^Gnarly^^^^^

Then again, checking in with the Front Page STupidTopo news, seems like loads of our Yank friends are wantin' some sort of escape from the insanity their gov't is providing them.....


Sheesh. It's just HEALTH CARE. What is WRONG with DECENT health care?!?!!?

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 1, 2013 - 11:29am PT
What is WRONG with DECENT health care?!?!!?



apparently it is communist. If they ate more amanita muscaria they wouldn't suffer from so much psychotic delusion
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