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DBlack

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Mar 22, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
I'm in a similar program at a different school. I will remember that, Hamie and Tricouni!

And for the sake of the forum, I got on the only thing that was dry yesterday in Vancouver, which, unfortunately, is only toprope-able. It is still quite beautiful...

Juniper Point 5.10c?
Juniper Point 5.10c?
Credit: DBlack
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 22, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
Cool there are a number of schools with OD programs :-) . Some of my students are in TREK & I also have one attending Templeton.

We used to call that top rope problem 5.8 hahahahaha. But that was in 1977.


Guinness makes ya fat.

12 yr old Islay ??? Now...........yummy yumm.


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 22, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
Young blood,


Spankys beta is in Whistler rockclimbs by Kevin M. I wouldn't bring anything besides 12 quickdraws, a gold camalot for the start of sunshine breakfast & a grey camalot for the start of did it with my girlfriend. The gear route(s) have never looked that appealing there to me. Finestone cowboy as Bruce mentions is a great route, there's nothing else like it in the corridor. Bring some endurance & maybe a yellow alien & a green camalot for the start. Even better bring a drill & tune it up :-)



Me on Blister in the sun.
Me on Blister in the sun.
Credit: Henkelchuk
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 22, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
Hey Tami, I agree with u on the single malt but some of us are lite & need a warmup.


FYI Guinness has less calories than most beers, besides the softball beers at least.

http://www.foodrepublic.com/2013/03/15/does-guinness-really-have-many-calories-bud-light



Edit-


I think as long as you are being active while drinking guiness it's all good :-)

Credit: RyanD
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 22, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
HAHAHAHA Ryan - six guys and a dog. In the sun. Squamish climbin' attits finest.
That's what bouldering pads are for, eh?
I mean when you're with yer mates and it's climbin' time. :-D

At my age and gender, Guinness is delish but it IS like drinkin' a loaf of bread. For the most part I don't mind getting older but the GETTING FAT SO EASY part sucks !!!!!

I oughtta peel my chubby self away from this dumb machine and go fer a walk, eh?

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
Hey guys!

Ghost- Nice pic and tale of Avalon. That climb has always intrigued me, along with Just Blessed and a few others down in the valley.

Good to see the boys out enjoying themselves on St Paddy's.

Nice to hear from you Justin, I'm headed to Cali in early May, we should hook up!!

David- Always nice to have a new voice here! 16? I wish i was that young when i started climbing!!

Whistler next week eh? Cool. I live up here, and it's pretty sweet up the mountains when conditions are right.

Next week looks pretty snowy, but temps will be ok, probably -1 to -5? Avy conditions will depend on new snow depths but Persistent Weak Layers from early season still lie dormant and can become a real threat with significant loading or warming.

Spanky's wall


Spanky's is pretty much cragging in the sky. Best enjoyed in early winter inversion conditions when T-shirt temperatures are easily accomplished, or late spring before they close Blackcomb. The best way to get there is take the high traverse towards ruby bowl after you climb Spanky's ladder and then either rappel in, (leave your gear up top for the epic sunset shot!) or scramble down the notch just to the left of the cliff.

Looking up the wall at the notch


Kyle on the far left route, Blister in the Sun 5.9





I also disagree with Ryan that the gear route isn't worth climbing. Kyle found it quite engaging.









Then there is the aret, You'll Go Blind 5.9


The next route is a 10c called Did It With My Girlfriend, i don't have a pic of anyone on it, but the rope is on it in my notch pic above.

Me on the far right climb Early Morning Job 5.9

Kyle Koroll Photo


Me getting my gear off the cliff.

Kyle Koroll Photo


Tami you should get off your butt and come climb with us one of these days!!


Nice pics Ryan!! Jealous!!
DBlack

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Mar 22, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
Sweet, thanks so much, Mike! That is very useful. Awesome pics too, I'm stoked!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 22, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
Thx Mike, Henkel took that pic up at spanky's about 3 years ago during a January inversion. St pattys day was interesting to say the least. 2 dogs in the pic actually Tami, & a bottle too if u look close- but it ain't islay. Just some good ole Catholic Jameson's!

Blistered in the sun! That's what it's called! Such a beautiful climb, what's Sunshine breakfast??

I also disagree with Ryan that the gear route isn't worth climbing. Kyle found it quite engaging.


I should have phrased that better, how's this.


"It has never appealed to me to carry a rack up to the sport crag on top of the ski hill for the one ok crack surrounded by beautifully featured faces & arÍtes only to ride all the way down with it on my back at the end of the day :-)"




Same goes for skaha lol!

But remember, unlike you & Kyle I am not, repeat: NOT a trad climber, & I don't want to be either :-) (has anyone ever admitted to that on supertopo before?)




Anyways, here's the OP himself crushing the smoke bluff connection last week, or was it the week before??


Credit: RyanD

Jah bah walk eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Jah bah walk eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Credit: RyanD



RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 22, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
Oh & one more then I really gotta get some work done.



Everyone should send out some good vibes to thekidcormier, I think he went under the knife yesterday or today to get his landing gear replaced. Come back strong Luke!!



Heal up strong Luke! So you too can soon be carrying gear around for f...
Heal up strong Luke! So you too can soon be carrying gear around for fun again;-)
Credit: RyanD
MH2

climber
Mar 22, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
Power to the kid.


Thanks for the tour, Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
You're welcome David. Have fun, and be safe! Oh ya, the crack is a 10A and it's called Ski Bum Come

Ryan you SPORT WEENIE!!!!!!!! LOL I will drag you up Slow Pitch one day and you will LOVE IT!! :) this sport weenie has the fattest trad rack I've ever seen someone of that persuasion covet.

Thanks for outing those pics. I know i took my time. It was next on the list. lol oh well..I'm gonna post em again anyways! but in context.


So as Ryan alluded to, him and I accomplished a "Winter" ascent (because it was last week! lol) of "The Smoke Bluff Connection 10a

He of course cruised it unlike any true sport weenie I've ever met. I found mosquito/Phlegmish easier this time.

me on Phlegmish




The diligent manager, taking business calls mid climb.


Jabborwocky 10b? (according to new guide)


It was a gorgeous day.


I managed a clean ascent after a couple falls off the wet, muddy opening footholds.


Ryan monkeying around on Wonderland 5.9




I was doing pretty good on the traverse till i got to the crux and fumbled around with the moves to get across to the slab. I spent way too much time puzzling it out and eventually i just couldn't hang on anymore.

Luckily Ryan had run it out from this point and the rope was directly above me so i didn't swing into the ledge.

I hung there for a bit getting my gas back and Ryan yelled down "Are you ok dude??" "I'm fine" I said, "I just bailed and i'm trying to get back on again!".
Luckily there is a little flake below the crux to haul yourself up on.

Ryan at the top.


After retrieving our shoes, we headed back to his place to have a beer and rotate my tires.

Ryan's neighbors fence is awesome, and his driveway has the sickest view.



Andy- You're welcome. Let's get out soon!!
MH2

climber
Mar 22, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
Great addition. High value on low climbs, Mike and Ryan. I will try to be ready when the time comes.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 22, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
Mike I went to Anders old guide ( '79 ) for a rating on Jabberwocky c'os I couldn't remember what we said it was. Well, I"ll be dipped in sh#t and rolled in crackers. 5.10b.

Course there's the bouldering start what din't useta be there....

:-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
Good to hear Andy! Hope you are well!

I always thought it was 10a. Just a tough start. Easier if you're tall. Lol
this just in

climber
north fork
Mar 22, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
Early may=shit yeah. You guys are welcome at my house and would love to show you some shuteye. You got my email so let me know Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
Sweet Justin! I'll shoot ya one later
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
Sure looks different without all the trees around here!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 23, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
Ryan you SPORT WEENIE!!!!!!!! LOL

Nope, sorry Mike. I don't wanna be a sport climber either. Just a Squamish climber who likes to climb on all the rocks Squamish has to offer when the conditions are best. Too much fun stuff to do around here to get pigeon holed. Climb everything :-)





Hey I don't think I ever saw that photo of you on early morning job before, that's a great shot. Nice wonderland pics too, my first time ever climbing with socks lol! Thanks for reposting those in context too!



And Jabberwocky @ 10b?! That particular 1978 guidebook author must've liked fluffing egos eh? I've always thought that besides the move off the ground that 5.9 was a fair grade for that one.



Here's a few more that are reposts from the bouldering thread but might as well throw them in the stew here as well.

Out of the light & into the light
Out of the light & into the light
Credit: RyanD

Tradkiller- brownie sending!
Tradkiller- brownie sending!
Credit: RyanD

Viper
Viper
Credit: RyanD

Brownie feeling it out
Brownie feeling it out
Credit: RyanD









Hey, on another note- and I may have asked this here before but- Has anyone ever climbed to the top of Anvil island?? Was headed south today & I'm always captivated by it. What's the story there, I heard it's owned by N Van outdoor school or something? Is there public access or anything?

Some nice looking(from the highway) cliffs there as well.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 23, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
A fellow who prefers to remain anonymous once rode a BMX bike from Vancouver to Porteau Cove, peeled outta his clothes, swam to Anvil Island , hiked to the top , back, swam back and passed out on the beach until the next morning when he realized it might be a good idea to get back to his wife in Van.

Another person, who will also remain anonymous, went over to Anvil Island and was pokin' around looking for climbs and found, instead, a large steel box filled with credit card receipts.

But there's this:
http://howesound.wordpress.com/2011/10/09/hike-anvil-island-leading-peak/
with lots of pix of very mossy rocks and some stunning views.

And Jabberwocky @ 10b?! That particular 1978 guidebook author must've liked fluffing egos eh? I've always thought that besides the move off the ground that 5.9 was a fair grade for that one.


That would'a been my ego bein' fluffed c'os I did the FA :-D
I remember it being 5.9 too except for the move off the ground.
Or five moves off the ground. I'm tinky....

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
Ryan, i hope you caught the sarcasm there.. Lol

10b for small people right Tami? ;)
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