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Messages 6241 - 6260 of total 7720 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 7, 2013 - 01:39am PT
Scary Bakedham

HAAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


If you wanna copy of that #43 Alpinist I'll have a few copies on hand.
FCFS.
No whinin' if you miss out.
ANders hasza few copies too but he's more discerning than I;
He drinks less.


Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 7, 2013 - 02:04am PT
Squamish stoke
Rainy Day Dream Away
Rainy Day Dream Away
Credit: Ghost
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 7, 2013 - 03:04am PT
Yeah, Squamish stoke!

Ghosts shot contrasts Andy's view from above quite nicely. What a pretty climb.




I stole this photo on the interweb of me that some Internet user "Kyle" had posted. Thanks "Kyle", from the Internet.

Credit: "Kyle"



I'd like to make the psyche but gotta work & won't be in Squamish till the witching hour to see who's up still. Hopefully we'll see ya!

Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 7, 2013 - 03:24am PT
Last time I saw Wayne he was putting up a rope.
Catburglers et frites
Catburglers et frites
Credit: Relic

David, I think Wayne has his wife's cell phone. That is why he is ignoring your toiletface.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
Just talked to Wayno, he's got the Carne Asada ready for grilling. We told Jim we're gonna try and be there around six to set up, so come on down any time after that.

I took Wayno out to the Smoke Bluffs yesterday, and sicked him on Clean Starts which he dispatched with glee.

Then we headed down to Burgers and found a bunch of the gang down there.

After suitable preparation i sent him up Burgers and Fries. (See relics pic)

Wayno rapping off Burgers



It was quite the sunset.


Wayno at the top


Stoked to see everyone tonight!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 8, 2013 - 02:41am PT
Just back from Psyche Ledge.

What a treat to have been there with so many wonderful people.
MH2

climber
Sep 8, 2013 - 02:49am PT
Second the emotion.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 8, 2013 - 03:15am PT
THird on that guys. Heard some more great Big Jim stories. Put a face to soloclimber :-D !!! Hell, even the Prez of the AAC made a visit; it was that important of a party with all those dinosaurs :-D hahahahahahaha..........

Thanks for the wine, Wayno :-D Lookin' fwd to crackin it open.

Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 8, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Great time at Psyche Ledge last night.
A big thanks to Jim Brennan for getting things set up and hosting the get together.
So good to see everyone who made it.
I think this event is a keeper and worthy of putting time and effort into again next year.

Regards,

PB
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 8, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
Yeah, thanks Perry & everyone. Sorry I missed a bunch of you guys but I guess it was past ur bedtimes when I got there :-)

Still got to meet Jim B, Harry, & Wayno- all rad dudes. As well, the Cormier brothers, Ais, Mike, Sandra, Perry & a few others were still there suffering from various degrees of libation which was nice too. Next year it should finish with the hungover exasperator toprope speed comp on the Sunday.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 8, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
A big thanks to Jim Brennan for getting things set up and hosting the get together.

Wayne and Nina also had a hand in the hosting, and deserve much thanks.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 8, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
True that!
Thanks Wayne and Nina!
Good to see you Dave!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Sep 8, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
What fun,

A good time was had by all.

Here's some early pics before the sun set of some tough customers :

(Phil, Wayno, Mari, Ghost, MH2 and Tami)

Credit: Jim Brennan

They were backed up by these OG's:

(Jim Sinclair and Anders)

Credit: Jim Brennan

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 8, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
Yes it was a great evening. Thanks Jim, Wayno and Perry. I agree it's a keeper as an annual event. I like Ryan's idea for the hangover toprope comp the next day.Great to reconnect with Tami, Dave, Andy, Anders and finally meet Ryan, Nathan, Wayno, Luke's bro and Big Jim( who told me a great story about his first mountain climb he ever did with some storm trooper German that lived as a hermit around Powell river). Bruce where were you? I wanted to see you and Tami arm wrestle.
The icing on the cake was getting a copy of Alpinism 43 to take home, thanks Tami.
Squamish is such an awesome place.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 9, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
Squamish is such an awesome place.

In so many ways.

If Psyche Ledge was in a park in the States, there is no way we could have pulled off a party like that. Not that we were disturbing anything, but the LEOs would have at least told us to pack it up and don't ever try that again.

I need to thank all the locals for such a great weekend. I would try to name them but I wouldn't want to miss anyone.

The biggest thanks to Big Mike. Burgers and Fries was tasty. After not staying up with all the new gear and techniques, he has been a mentor, in the most humble way.

Tami, I can't wait to dig into the Alpinist 43. Thanks. It was great meeting Phil, I wish we could have talked more.

Jim made the day with the grill, the table and the generator and tunes. And the hand-truck. No-one had to carry coolers of ice.

I could go on and on but I'll just leave it with an, "Ill be back".

Wayno.

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 9, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
If Psyche Ledge was in a park in the States, there is no way we could have pulled off a party like that. Not that we were disturbing anything, but the LEOs would have at least told us to pack it up and don't ever try that again.

This is a result of a delicate balance of factors ranging from the abject poverty and powerlessness of the BC Parks administration to the broadly understood and accepted role of citizen management. Can you imagine a similar level of trail building and cliff side eco system modification going on in a US park or even a Canadian federal park? Even the older psyche ledge parties were pretty respectful of the land and neighbors compared to the occasional tire burning piss ups of the invading loggers kids. So long as no cars are burned or guns shot off, no one complains and the RCMP stay reoccupied with their donuts. Sorry i missed it (again) you guys and I'm glad it was a good one. I had a climbing date to keep. Every blue sky in september is a gift from heaven. Best time of the year and the days are numbered ya know?
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 9, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
A nice reclean at the Gobsmack, before the Psyche festivities. Great party guys. Thanks so much for feeding the starving kids. The tacos were killer. Thanks for the mag Tami!

The Lurker on Sacrificial Lamb
The Lurker on Sacrificial Lamb
Credit: Relic
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Thanks so much for feeding the starving kids.


Big Grin!!!!!

HAhahahahah!!!!

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
So how did Kyle and Nathan do on Freeway on Sunday? Any pics?

I talked to Yerian today and told him about the party and he gives his deepest regards to all his Squamish friends. He sounded like he is in bad need of a Squamish fix.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 10, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
Kyle and I had a great, albeit lengthy time on Freeway.
We got a pretty early start, but not early enough to be the first party on route. Luckily, the two guys in front informed us that this would be the absolute peak of their leading limit and offered us to go first, as they might be slow. If they happen to read this - much appreciated!

I led the first pitch. It was hard. For anyone whose only .11a climbs are the two on the Grand and any in the Bluffs, this thing is a brutally rude warm up. Two definite crux sections, each protected by a bolt. I fell once at each one. Still the best I've done on it (third time climbing that pitch).
I linked it with Daylight Crack to get some space between us and the other guys. Three cams for that second half.

Kyle sent the traverse, thought it was soft for .10b. I thought it was harder than the one on Ultimate Everything. I started the dihedral, couldn't commit to the crux until I took a hang and got a nut in. Belayed on gear from the partway ledge due to rope drag. Kyle finished the rest of the pitch, would have got the OS but he was too short to reach a crucial lock and the left leg is in a strenuous position. I managed to follow clean on TR, which I was stoked on, as my first time up I botched the sequence horribly and hung the whole way up.
Kyle then took us up to the Truck Stop, very gracefully onsighting the 50 meter .11a corner pitch. I also got it clean with much effort.

After a rest, I went to go through the roof, but was reaching with the wrong hand and fell a couple times. French Freed a bunch of it just due to impatience, as I had to hitch hike back to the city once we were down and didn't want to be too late. I got better beta now though so should be okay for next time. Kyle got it clean with one fall at the start.

Now was where it got messy. Kyle started around the Autobahn traverse, but instead of going up once around the corner, he went directly across to a different anchor. Communication was pretty much non existent. I just waited until he had taken me tight and gave a couple tugs on the rope before I started. I hadn't had enough to drink and my arms were seizing up in a violent way. I had to hang on the first piece of gear and spend about 15 minutes shaking out. Once I made it around the corner, I went from following to leading and finished up the pitch at the proper anchor.

It was about 430 at this point. Kyle's confidence was shaken due to the slight epic he had just had, and I was worried that my arms would lock up in the middle of a hard pitch. Neither of us wanted to climb another .11. I led up the .10c without cramping, but then instead of going up the .11a corner, we detoured over to the right to the chimney pitch on Milk Road.
I led that, and could barely pull up our tagline without my upper body seizing. I have never experienced anything like that, and it was extremely frustrating. Kyle then went back over to the final pitch on Freeway and finished it up clean (.10d). I pulled on the bolts.

Nina was awesome, meeting us partway up the trail with water. When we got down, I had to run back up to the base and grab my shirt which I had jettisoned from the first pitch. Kyle gave me a ride to the intersection at Shannon Falls, where I managed to get a ride home.

I can't wait to get back on it. I was so beat I almost slept through my alarm Monday morning and could barely move at work. Definitely bringing more water next time.


Also - had an excellent time at the Psych Ledge party. Had some great chats with Tami, met a couple people for the first time (Peder Ourom - legend! and Harry) which was awesome.
Wish it was more than a once a year event.
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