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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 12, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 12, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
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Nice going, Scrubber. The line goes up toward where the traverse on Skywalker finishes, I think. There were/are a couple old bolts below the Skywalker belay and a crack below them.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 12, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
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Great thread! how did I miss all 8000+ posts?!?! ;-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
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Great thread! how did I miss all 8000+ posts?!?! ;-)
I dunno? ;)
Those rooster heads were quite perplexing at first... Lol
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 13, 2014 - 07:47am PT
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Those rooster heads were quite perplexing at first... Lol
Where do think aid climbers get all that weird gear they're always yammering about? You thought "beaks" and "heads" grew on some magical tree?
On another subject, big thanks to Hamie, who just solved my Christmas gifting problems...
Santa's little helpers tell me that the 3rd edition of Glenn/Tricouni's outstanding book "Hot Springs of Western Canada" has been available at reputable booksellers everywhere for the last few months
Now, if only there was a reputable bookseller in the lawless and semi-literate land I moved to.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2014 - 08:29am PT
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A couple more good ones I missed:
You're right Andy. There were two old aid bolts below the belay at the end of the Skywalker traverse. I left one as a tip-o-the-hat to those who have gone before. Just to keep you honest though, you can look, but you can't clip. ;)
Full splitter glory! There aren't many like this in Squamish. There's about 20m of crack in this photo.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 08:48am PT
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Now i understand the double placement... Climbing today Kris?
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2014 - 08:51am PT
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It is a 1/4 incher, but classic, corroded, beer-can pull-tab style aluminum hanger. What company made or supplied those things? Were they actually intended for climbing, or were they repurposed industrial fastener hardware like much of the other fixed pro of the day?
Of the non-homemade hangers of the day, these seem to be the most common.
K
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2014 - 08:54am PT
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I would love to Mike, but I think I have been given Christmas baking duties. If you're going to be out, let me know where and I'll try to come by.
The double placement isn't entirely necessary, but I can be a bit of a chicken after not being on the rock for a month. Most of the crack is paralell sided and isn't flaring at all.
From that point you've got to put the pedal down and go for it to the belay ledge. It's only about 3m of climbing, but after leaving the security of the crack, it feels longer. The moves are much like the thin face sections of Cruel Shoes. Good pro, but climbing that'll keep you honest above, and clean fall potential.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 09:04am PT
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Heather and I are gonna hit the bluffs. I'll text you when I get down there.
Sounds super fun. Quick drying? (I'm geussing the name "Weeping Wall" might be a clue..)
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Dec 13, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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Way drier than you would think. 90% of it dries in one day of sunny weather, the last 15 feet take another day. I've seen it completely dry while Skywalker has been literally running with water.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
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It's gorgeous today.
Tr'ing Sunny Days in December
We're at burgers now!
Edit
Thanks Kris.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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Over Fourty is still eluding me, but i got closer.
Sunset was vivid this evening.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 13, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
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That's the place, that's the spirit. I always thought Sunny Days (in December) was called that for a day like you had.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 13, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
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nothing like tied off rooster heads above a slab.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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I'm sure it is Andy.. I'm sure it is. Care to join us tomorrow? Was warm today, looks even more so for tomorrow.
Yeah Doug they're BOMBER! ;)
I took a couple pics with my s110 today too. Here's Kieran on his onsight of Grumpy Old Men 11c
Contemplating the clip
Pulling the first bulge
Chalk up in the scoop
Ryand and Electra showed up for a visit.
Technical climbing!
Nice work Kieran!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Dec 14, 2014 - 08:30am PT
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Good tick, Kieran. P2 has a few metres near the top that are a bit freaky.
Thanks for the idea Mike. All my psychic and physical energy are focused on a gym project. If that goes for me then I can exit the zone of purity and calm and go back to being a grumpy old man and a real climber, again.
For now, the Squamish photos and stories are a big help. May they continue.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 14, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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I thought Grumpy Old Men was a bit soft for 11c, cause it was the only "11c" I've ever successfully led. Felt more like 11a on the day. Possibly temperature-dependent though.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 14, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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AerialElf
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Dec 14, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
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Where is the lovely splitter crack that you posted, Scrubber?
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