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Messages 6221 - 6240 of total 8101 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 5, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
If somebody spends the enormous amount of time, effort and money cleaning a mostly new route that includes parts of an overgrown and forgotten line.


.....they should be called retarded .


:-)



Damn. Broke my own rule about name-calling.


Sorry to all you who've excavated ancient passageways.


I take back the "retard" and suggest a career change to proctology.

:-)

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 5, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
You are quite correct that I have a big ego.

Which makes you not so different from most of the rest of the first ascentionists in the world. I'm sure there are exceptions, but most people who put up new routes, me included, do have a "big ego." I've never understood why people consider that attribute as a negative. Absent big ego, there'd be a whole lot less climbs in the world. Or less anything that requires creativity, imagination, and the drive to take risks.

I'm sure there are some ego-less folk out there who climb new routes for no other reason than to become one with the fuzzy endlessness of the universe or something, but most of the new-routers I know are strong-willed big-ego types.

But you know what? Most of them are also really nice people.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Sep 6, 2013 - 01:33am PT
But you know what? Most of them are also really nice people.
Everyone on this thread is really nice. This thread has been a revelation to me: totally accepting of differing views, climibng abilities, ages, POVs, and so on. Yes, it can get heated, but not nasty. Let's keep it that way, in the spirit the climbing community in general and one of the genuine nice guys, Big Mike (I'm honoured to know you, Mike), who started this thread way back when.

I'm taking an extended leave of absence from this thread. Have fun at the Psyche Ledge party - sorry to miss it - and I'll check in here towards the end of October. In the mean time, keep the discussion going, keep it kind, and keep climbing.

Glenn
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 6, 2013 - 02:14am PT
Glenn
I recall that some time ago you mentioned a fall trip to Peru and Bolivia, and assume that you are now on your way. Buena suerte if you decide to tackle one of the bigs near La Paz.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 6, 2013 - 11:19am PT
Ghost and Hamie thread the needle. Ego's are like scotch. Straight up fairly foul but a spot of water and the fury is the milk of life itself. Even straight up is suitable for some occasions, if the occasion is suitably already drunk and not too concerned with the future. A steady diet of it can lead to a short and not particularly satisfying life however.

Then there are blends or Rye, but we're above all that
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 6, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Dang! I was looking forward to seeing you on the ledge. But it sounds like, through some weird twisted logic, you've managed to convince yourself that a trip to Peru and Bolivia is somehow more worthwhile than hanging out on a disused road with a bunch of climbers.

Oh well...
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 6, 2013 - 12:14pm PT


Then there are blends or Rye, but we're above all that

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 6, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
Obviously Peder was a fan of The Worlds Toughest Milkman. David Boswell was transplanted Hamiltonian that came to Vancouver just like myself.
Dundas has climbing too, that's where we drank our Owls roost.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
Yes, it can get heated, but not nasty. Let's keep it that way, in the spirit the climbing community in general and one of the genuine nice guys, Big Mike (I'm honoured to know you, Mike), who started this thread way back when.

This is very good advice. This is why we have discussions here that don't end in name calling and thread deleting. Thanks for the compliment Glenn. It's an honour coming from you. Your support while i was in the hospital meant the world, and i was very lucky to have it.

This thread has been my saviour, in good times and bad, and has contributed greatly in my recovery, from the support of it's denizens who flocked to my side when it was most needed. I will never forget your visits, generous donations or words of support, so thank you to all who were there for me.

Now, this renaming thing. After a few conversations and some diligent reading, I think that if one is simply freeing a previously aided pitch, without any variations, then the original name should stick.

If one is adding new pitches to an existing climb or variations to free the route, then it is essentially a new route, encompassing the old pitches. Therefore it deserves a new name, but hopefully one which will pay homage to the older route, which paved the way for the newer one. Milk "Road" for example. I like the way Marc handled it, including the older names in the descriptions, as well as fa information.

I also think it is a sign of respect for the original FA to leave the name intact on freed single pitch aid routes, as some have chosen to do.

I guess it just comes down to whether the ffa thinks the original name is suitable for the free version.

Nice to see everyone posting again btw. All we need now is a comment from Greg, Hamish and Perry and we'll have a full house! ;)
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 6, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
I'm an irrelevant anachronism and have nothing edifying to contribute to the renaming discussion.
MH2

climber
Sep 6, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
So can we rename you?
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 6, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
Yes, it's done all the time.
People have been renaming me for decades.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 6, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
What time do the festivities start tomorrow night?

Ummmm. Wait. "Festive" is maybe not the world that best suits my memories of Psyche Ledge. But I still need to know, roughly, what the hours are.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 6, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
And another thing

If any of you run into Wayno tonight (Howe Sound Pub???), tell him to call me. Or check his phone for texts.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 6, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
I probably won't roll in from Chilliwack before dark.
It better be festive by then!

Scary Bakedham
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 6, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
If we're renaming irrelevant geezers with tasty names like scary bakedham
I vote we rename hamie "hamwich munch"!

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Sep 7, 2013 - 12:09am PT
So !

All here and elsewhere are invited to make the best of yourselves at Psyche Ledge tomorrow.

Wayno has committed to Carne Asado you up and I'm bringing the BBQ and some fish chunks, paper plates and plastic forks.

(As Hatten used to say,"f*#k the Sierra Club")

What is needed is some tables for proper presentation... BRING SOME !

You want light ?

YOU'RE LIGHT ! ! !

Bring 2 headlamps to match the suavety of your hat size and a lawn chair to support those extra prominent climber ovaries or balls you're sportin'.

Let's have some fun !
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 7, 2013 - 12:15am PT
You want light ?

As long as it ain't Coors Light. Or Bud Light.
gf

climber
Sep 7, 2013 - 12:16am PT
In the immoral words of the mighty thread deleter, err hiker, "i don't care to belong to any club that will have me as a member", opps I'm channelling groucho-that said, I plan on loading up the wagon with various incendiary devices as a precaution against the torrential rain that occurred the last time I attended a psyche ledge fest aka the darly hatten memorial. Rumour has it you young punks know how to do the hard core proud, i'll play as long as the first couple i fire down don't count on the total.....
MH2

climber
Sep 7, 2013 - 12:33am PT
"Sometimes the mountaineer must adopt the attitude of the cow and chew the cud."

~ Paul Petzoldt




My own attitude on renaming routes comes from long ago at the Gunks where the most complicated it could get was a link of two other climbs:

Travels with Charley
Strictly from Nowhere

and it was called Travels/Strictly by my friends at the time. In the latest guide, I see that you can link 3 climbs.

The name of a climb is a lot less important to me now than it was then, but back then the name of the climb almost was the climb. The name had a supernatural talismanic power. Well, maybe it did, if it wasn't called Puff 'N' Grunt chimney, but called the Crack of Doom, instead.

Routes that are up to 30-some pitches, close to other such routes, and have long histories of aid and free ascents could present naming challenges.

http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2011/05/yosemite-climbing/graphic/img_2011all.png
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