Squamish Photos and Stories


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Feb 27, 2014 - 08:58pm PT
Jefe, anytime from Mid July-mid Sept but I would say for a sure thing with a mellow scene the week after Labor Day. You can stay at my place, all you need is shoes & harness, bring the dog too if it is logistically possible. You are all set, pull the trigger whenever you're ready.

A long way from where I started
Feb 27, 2014 - 10:37pm PT
With a one week window for climbing, when would be the best time to visit?

First week of September. More or less.

Edit: Best to leave it until after the labor day holiday -- Squamish does get crowded.

Oh, and make sure you let us all know your dates well in advance. It'd be good to meet you.

Social climber
Feb 28, 2014 - 01:44am PT
^^^indeed:-D ^^^^^

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 28, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
RyanD what crag is that in your last pic - is it the thing down and right of Tunnel Rock or something? Looks oddly familiar but I can't quite place it.

Mar 1, 2014 - 03:03am PT
Yep. A few fun climbs there, they are calling it the vandalarium. We did 5 there yesterday that were new to us. It is going to be a popular area this summer with a good collection of new & recleaned moderates.


Straight outta Squampton
Mar 1, 2014 - 11:35am PT
Don't get too close to the bars of the dragon's cage. He can still reach through the gaps with his claws. (At least that's what I tell my six year-old)

Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
Jefe, I think Ghost is right. September is probably your best bet!
That's pretty cool that Ryan offered to put you up I would take him up on it. Him and his lady are super cool and it's a stone's throw away from the smoke bluffs!!

I'd be happy to get out with you while you're here and i still wanna take you up on your offer to come south, but it's probably gonna be next winter.

After dragging my feet a little bit on Thursday morning i managed to get down to the bluffs in time for a pitch.

Another beautiful February day

The Squaw was beaming in the sun.

Kangaroo Corner went pretty well.. other than my aider getting caught on a draw near the top...

Getting stopped by clove hitches that I foolishly forgot to attend to was interesting as well.

I found out that clean aid climbers can really benefit from a nice light alpine hammer..

Especially if they want their nice offset peanuts back!

I ended up fetching a nice size rock to knock em out and prussiked back up the rope.

Both of em came out with a little tap.

Feeling victorious I pulled my rope. Before opposite end left my reach i noticed i had left my backup knot in it and it was twisted. I undid the figure 8 and straightened out the twists.

I gave it a little red rocks yank when the end reached the anchor, and it stuck. I pulled it and whipped it but it wasn't going anywhere. I certainly didn't want to jug it, and it was getting late so leading it was definitely a last ditch option.

I went around the corner and scoped out the crack to the left of clean starts. I had seen the boys using it as a down climb from their highball exploits.

I hadn't climbed it before but it looked like it was only one move to the ledge. The scariest part was when i got to the "ledge" and realized that part of it was more like dirt and moss on slab until you get around the corner! Lol.

It was pretty easy to get over to the Kangaroo anchor after that. Somehow the rope had curled into a simple overhand. It was certainly more than adventurous for this guy who probably can't really afford that type of risk.. Lol

I was rewarded with a beautiful sunset

After I successfully retrieved my rope I called Luke and was happy to hear that they were just sitting down to his birthday dinner at the casino.

It was pretty fun. Luke did magic tricks with the eight ball.

I'm hoping the Vandleairium will have it's anchor issues solved soon.

Trad climber
crack addict
Mar 2, 2014 - 06:42pm PT

Great pictures!!

Pretty amazing to see how Squam has evolved since my Seattle friends and I used to come up there in the early 70's. Never in our wildest dreams could we have predicted that Squamish would become the year-round destination climbing area it has. Bravo to all you dedicated moss-backs!

Mar 2, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
Mike- I love yer iPhone landscapes from the Bluffs!

Mountain climber
Mar 2, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
Mike, I love those photos!
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
Thanks Don! If it weren't for you pioneers, this place probably just wouldn't be the same. Do you have any tales from fa's that stick out which you'd care to regale us with?

Thanks Tim and Glenn. I'm pretty happy with the shots my phone takes too. I am thinking about updating to a point and shoot though, since a couple of my iphone shots were considered for publication and then didn't make the grade.

Mountain climber
Mar 4, 2014 - 12:50am PT
Yeah, the phone photos look great on the screen, but for print, you need something better. If your phone will save as RAW or even TIFF, you might be able to get away with it. But not JPEG.
this just in

north fork
Mar 4, 2014 - 11:20am PT
This is definitely the best climbing thread on the taco, I wish I could contribute, but enjoy lurking and seeing all the climbing. Thanks to everyone.
Mike, there are a couple threads on best point and shoot cameras and I think it's worth the couple hundred dollars, sorry loonies. Your pics are definitely worthy of publication.

I'll be in Whistler February 1-7 next year, hopefully the snow is good.

Trad climber
Talybont on Usk, Wales, UK
Mar 4, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
Hi, this is my first post on Supertopo, some inspiring pics and fantastic looking routes. Keep them coming!

I live in Wales, UK, and am heading over to Washington to visit my wife's family this summer for a month (July). In the past I have brought the bike over but this year I am getting back into climbing, used to do a lot, trad up to E4 (5.10d/11a I guess) but am probably only looking at 5.10 on lead now after a few years off. Did a couple of months in Yosemite back then too. I'd been keen to meet up with some climbers in the area to get out on sport, trad or perhaps even a wall if things go well, anyone up for showing a brit around? I know it's a way off but I like to plan ahead!


Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 4, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Neil, there are a few of us old geezers here in Seattle and up in Squamish that are actually quite hospitable. Don't hesitate to send a PM, even if you are a "Brit". Cheers.

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Mar 4, 2014 - 02:18pm PT
Mike - nice afternoon shot of the rock and Sound. My wife and I visited Squamish a year ago last fall and had a great time. Great town, great rock. Your picture really made me want to go back. It's raining here in Cali and you guys are climbing in the sun. What the hell?
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2014 - 08:00pm PT

Thanks Glenn and Justin. I'm thinking about a canon s110. I really liked Mark Hudon and Cheyenne's shots last year.

Justin, i think you'd be hard pressed to find a longer running on-topic thread on any climbing forum. My editor from the alpinist piece thought that for sure it must be the largest thread of it's kind!

Neil, i'm sure that more than a few people would be happy to have a partner. I'm typically pretty busy, but shoot me an email when you come over.

Thanks chill! It's been unusually dry this season. Last week was pretty wet, but i'm out again today!

Hanging out at the bluffs again!

Mar 11, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
Credit: RyanD

A long way from where I started
Mar 11, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
It that "Ropeless" shot of the traverse on Clandestine Affair?
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
That would be rather brave in approach shoes! :)

Yesterday afternoon was gorgeous. Not a single party at penny lane.

Is it still winter??

Crime was a fun c1 lead.

Interesting though because it's not good gear the whole way, so you kinda have to take what's good while still trying to get as high as you can in the aider.

I had one cam blow in the last flaring pocket which caused me to sit back on my grigri. That was pretty exciting... lol

15 pieces.. lol

Brownie and Ryan showed up, so I hung out with them for a bit, and then they took off to go tackle a pebble.

When i was cleaning it, Kyle and crew showed up, and we had a little toprope session which ended in me dogging up it.. I could do the moves, but after 5 or 6, I was just pooped. Very good training..

As the sun was setting i caught the moon over the squaw

Last light on the north walls and the Prow

Well.. Time to go climb again. :)
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