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Messages 6181 - 6200 of total 8241 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
gf

climber
Sep 5, 2013 - 01:34am PT
Anders, so good to have you back at the campfire; most pleased to have proof positive that the reports you were just resting were spot on. I'm with you on banishing this renaming thing, lets fire up the birdwalk bandwagon and get with the times rather than tilting at the Moody Blues windmill.
yours in revisionism
gf
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 5, 2013 - 01:43am PT
I'm with you on banishing this renaming thing, lets fire up the birdwalk bandwagon and get with the times rather than tilting at the Moody Blues windmill.
yours in revisionism


Huh????
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 5, 2013 - 01:47am PT
lets fire up the birdwalk bandwagon and get with the times rather than tilting at the Moody Blues windmill.

I had a class in college where we analyzed stuff like that to figure out what it really meant but that was a long time ago.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:08am PT
Moody Blues - 1970 - Question of balance. Yes, I think Greg is proposing a retro bolting and renaming of a particular slab haul on the upper Apron.... Not so fast buddy. Mustn't avoid due process and all but worry not - tribal council is just next week

Now what was Anders going on aboot? Something about nefarious dark forces slinking about threatening no less than complete and utter destruction of the experience of climbing? Damn! Sounds serious.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:11am PT
Artificial Land: Inadvertently renamed Sentry Box sometime between the 1962 Baldwin guide, and the 1967 Woodsworth guide.

Don't look at me! I'm not responsible for that renaming!

I saw no reason to rename Crap Crags (Europa, I think). Why Europa??? What was wrong with Crap Crags???

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:17am PT
What's wrong with Crap Crags????


Totally. Such a title is eternal, like Freeway..... or Danish Dirt
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:19am PT
I have been pondering this renaming conundrum.......and have come up with 2 suggestions:

1. Anyone who does a new route in the alpine is then entitled to rename the WHOLE MOUNTAIN, at least until the next new route is established.

2. It's time to rename Squamish. There are already 2 possible choices, Squish and Squampton. Any other ideas?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:22am PT
2. It's time to rename Squamish. There are already 2 possible choices, Squish and Squampton. Any other ideas?

How about Goose Rock? That has a nice ring to it.....
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:25am PT
O.K., O.K., I got it. We get more yanks up there and they start renaming all the routes with their favorite dribble. Whoa. Stop me.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:30am PT
I can't wait for some good old yankee carne asada on Psyche Ledge this weekend. See y'all at The Goose!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:34am PT
There are already 2 possible choices, Squish and Squampton. Any other ideas?


Well I've always kinda liked Newport. Or Skunk Hollow.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:43am PT
That reminds me, Wayno;

The Q surface is 17x12.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:55am PT
That will get it done. About three skirt steaks at a time. Who is hungry?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 5, 2013 - 04:27am PT
MH couldn't take it anymore :-)

Thanks MH!

Lots of good posts.

Is sacrificial lamb @ gobsmacking wall a play on artificial land?


Wow, goose rock. That woulda been a shame. The Chief is a way more bitchen name for a rock formation.

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 5, 2013 - 04:50am PT
Why don't we take a page out of Prince's book. After a free ascent, Crap crags would become "the route formally know as crap crags" or Freeway could become Wayfree.

All kidding aside, changing names is somewhat disrespectful to the original ascensionists and the historical value of those names.

The Persian community in North Vancouver is an ethnic group that has certainly enriched our city. They are good business people and since coming here after'79 own a lot of the stores on Lonsdale ave, our main street. Several years ago they went to city council to push to have the name changed to an Iranian name. This is the same thing, a total lack of respect for the existing community that originally named it over one hundred years ago.

Bottom line, respect the people that came before you whether it be rock or road.
Catburglar

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 5, 2013 - 10:12am PT
renaming routes it is totally lame, and seems to be more of a Squamish "thing". Other than changing the "East Face of Washinton Column" to "Astroman", I am not aware of any other name changes in Yos. none of the routes which have been freed on EC have been renamed, The FFAists are all bigger than that, and don't need the ego trip.

Hmmm... Golden Gate = The Heart route, El Nino = North America Wall, El Corazan = Son of Heart and Flight of the Albatross, Passage to Freedom = New Dawn, The Prophet = Bad to the Bone and Eagles Way, Secret Passage = Eagles Way and Bad to the Bone.

Re-naming freed aid routes is commonplace and is often more of a necessity in order to keep things clear and concise rather than an effort to disregard the first ascenscionists efforts and contribution. If I freeclimb the trade route of El Cap should i say ``i just freed most of Salathe, except the part where i had to move left into Bermuda Dunes,on pitch 23 i had to detour off of Salathe for a pitch, before the headwall i had to move left and finish up the final pitches of Excaliber``? Or can I please just say I sent the Freerider!!!?

I think on a much smaller scale this is what is going on in Squamish, people aren't going to want to say "today i climbed parts of The Bastille, before the top of the Bastille I moved left into Rock On"

It kind seems to me like the ego trip is coming from your end Hamie.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 5, 2013 - 10:31am PT
Careful Catburglar...... those old guys can get a little dangerous when cornered....

MH2

climber
Sep 5, 2013 - 10:41am PT
can I please just say I sent the Freerider!!!?


No. You say, "I did the Free Salathe." Unless there is more than one.

Yeah, that would work. If we were bloodless conformists.
Catburglar

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 5, 2013 - 10:48am PT
MH2. I'm not sure if you are joking or not, but if I were to climb the Freerider and claim a free ascent of the Salathe I'd be be wandering into Maestri-Cesen land, the freerider totally avoids the the 5.13 headwall of the the Free Salathe.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 5, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Its a bit curious that such a staunch conservative such as MH is loath to accept the long established tradition of renaming routes by the FFA team, then radically proposes his own criteria of dangerously socialist / collectivist committee managed system of governance for the sole purpose of maintaining some semblance of ownership by a washed up old gang of mafioso clinging to thier past heroics of pounding iron ladders up cracks.....

OK I admit thats hitting a little below the belt and its a teeny bit more nuanced than that but lets have a look at Anders list:

route re-naming simply isn't on unless most or all of the following are satisfied:

Community consensus.
Isn't confusing.
Consent of those who made the FA, if feasible.
Route has had few if any ascents.
Route is not considered of any historic or other significance.
Much time has passed, and the route has become overgrown.
A great deal of work was needed to restore the route.
Substantial variations were made.
The route's history and original name and climbers are consistently identified. Simple respect.

I'm not sure if BC Parks will appreciate having this land on their desk so how about we trim it down a bit. If we start with what has worked in the past I think we can keep "Community Consensus" and pretty much throw out the rest - seeing as community consensus makes everything else redundant or at least puts it in proper context.

Thus The Squaw becomes Slahanay, The Chief stays the Chief, Chinaman peak becomes Ha Ling, A Mouth Full of dead Eels becomes DOA, certain particularly spectacular bits of U Wall becomes the Shadow and the Grand stays the Grand.... I mean, how can you improve on the Grand? and anyone who tries likely would not have much success due to community consensus, unless it becomes a bit less grand when the Sword and Split Pillar eventually fall off leaving a hideous crumbling copperhead seam behind ..... which Sonnie Trotter will promptly send, then rename it Smell of Grumpy Old Men Clinging to the Past in a unguarded and probably drunken moment at a psyche ledge party.... then change his mind upon pressure from community consensus.... or maybe not?

I guess we'll only know when the damn thing falls off
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