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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 28, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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Speaking of Squamish stoke, I was chatting with little Marc last nite and he mentioned that he and Tony McLane had done a new route on Dione, self-propelled from Squamish, back in July.
1) ride bikes to cable car
2) walk cables
3) hike to Lake Lovelywater
4) traverse Alpha and Serratus to hut
5) climb new 5.10X direct line left of the Serl/Foweraker and right of the big loose corner, named Mags 99 after the mexi joint of course
"Belays are solid" saith the kid, "but no gear at the cruxes"
6) descend off Dione and reverse 4 thru 1.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
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Whatever happened to that Kidcormier dude? I liked his TRs, not enough Squamish aid climbing pictures floating around lately, I need something to get the wall stoke going
He's been working tons. We did get out last week for a lap on Slot machine!
It was super fun. I had dinner after with him and Aislinn after, and it was lovely.
I mean, the entire thing is burly including that awful traverse of the river. Done that one too !!! I had a seal poke it's head out of the river and watch me.
Lol! Seal eh?
Marc and Brette are in the Tantalus again today apparently...
Stolen from Marc's facecrack.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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We had a flash freeze today folks. Ice junkies take note! There will probably be a few flows out there tomorrow!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2014 - 08:55am PT
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Anyone ice climbing today??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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It's damn cold up there... Hope it was a one day in and out mission!
Anyone get out today?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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Lol!
I did no ice climbing today.. I stayed in my nice warm house and worked on pics.
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bm
Social climber
pluto
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Nov 30, 2014 - 01:16am PT
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but I bet the alpine must be good after that 150 mill hose down and flash freeze.
Bloody conga line up the Vulcan's Thumb today... I think 6 parties summited and I guess everyone's been waiting for this event (and significantly cheaper than the water bomber option frequently discussed).
I'll bet a hundred bucks the skiing sucks anyway ... can't remember the last time I saw the phrase, "... some extremely challenging conditions" in an avvy bulletin, but W-B's latest has it in there.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I have never seen climbable & protectable water ice form in 48 hrs before, but it did this weekend. Wow.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So cold outside yer nipples will freeze off and roll around inside yer jacket like lugnuts in a hubcap.
And then one of your crampons falls off.
Dang, that was funny. You cussed like I'd never heard you cuss before (which is saying something), and I thought it was a bit overboard for something as mundane as losing a crampon while soloing steep ice. But I didn't realize you'd also lost your nipples -- no wonder you were cussin'.
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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I have never seen climbable & protectable water ice form in 48 hrs before, but it did this weekend. Wow.
250mm or so in the last storm cycle here, then flash freeze to -8, some uncommon streaks did form up..
,,like this one
Went to look at it today with Matt M
The line is just next to a bolted route called The First Course (Kris Holm '98), but the bolts were just out of reach to the right of the ice.. so we conveniently scrambled up to the U Wall base and set up a TR on the bolted belay there
had a couple of 55m laps on our mini weeping wall.. it could've been sent if one had a handful of stubby screws and a couple of cams (that and some better attached ice..the middle 10m or so was a little hollow sounding)
The only downside to this endeavor was that I had to bail on my rock climbing date w Big Mike..Sorry again, Man!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nice one Saugy! Pretty good view up the U wall as well from that vantage point. Where did the smear touch down? Just lookers right of Seasoned in the Sun?
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Hey Grippa! Enjoyed meeting you at the City of Rocks gathering..
Yeah, it touched down a ways right of Seasoned.. It was formed up all the way..coulda went in two 60m pitches.
Who knows when there will be another chance at it? Another wet, warm system is coming our way
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Recently back from a month in East Africa with a bunch of younger folk, who made me laugh and drink way more than usual. Good times.
A bit late, but here we go..... BITGOD most of the routes were 4 or 5 pitches long, and we would alternate leads on the FA. Consequently the order of recording names was arbitrary and meaningless. When making the FA of one of today's mini sport climbs one of us will lead the pitch, lower off, pull the rope and then the other one will lead the climb. I always report my partner's name first, and my own last--as a courtesy to my partner[s]. New routes are usually joint and equal efforts. Some might say that they are always 'joint' efforts here in the Koots.
Does anyone really care if Tami or Peter was first to lead some pitch? or if it was Glenn or me? I hope not! It's only climbing. :) :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2014 - 11:23pm PT
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I have never seen climbable & protectable water ice form in 48 hrs before, but it did this weekend. Wow.
I figured with so much water then cold, something would happen.. nice fa the other day!
Bloody conga line up the Vulcan's Thumb today... I think 6 parties summited and I guess everyone's been waiting for this event (and significantly cheaper than the water bomber option frequently discussed).
Thanks for the Report BD!
The only downside to this endeavor was that I had to bail on my rock climbing date w Big Mike..Sorry again, Man!
Yes well, Ice isn't climbable very often.. there will be plenty of days, for winter cragging. thanks for the pics dude! gotta get me some gear...
Nice to see you here Greg!
Does anyone really care if Tami or Peter was first to lead some pitch? or if it was Glenn or me? I hope not! It's only climbing. :) :)
No, not really, but i always want to know more details about your ascents! Helps make the picture a little less blurry..
There wasn't a chain on the backside trail. We third-classed that in our ice gear. It couldn't have been *that bad* if I 3rd classed it ( tho' don't get Ghost going on my Yak Peak Crampon F*#kup again ) hahaha.
So you guys finished up uwall then??
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Bump... Rising above the spammer.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2014 - 12:47am PT
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Ok ok. You meant the Flake Ledge trail. I got confused when you said backside...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I thought it was called the flake escape ledge?
Edit- trail
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Man o man I miss squamish!
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The Call Of K2 Lou
Mountain climber
North Shore, BC
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Yes well, Ice isn't climbable very often... gotta get me some gear...
+1
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Yeah well I dunno if I believe u Tami, I got a feeling you've been yanking chains longer than BK has been pimping at least.
Edit- oops haha hope that didn't sound weird!:-)
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