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Messages 6141 - 6160 of total 8031 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Aug 30, 2013 - 03:54am PT
Rainy Day Dream Away, a suitable climb for that wicked lightning storm we just had.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 30, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
Has anyone tried the hand jammies? I have to say it seems like an easy way to avoid learning good hand crack technique. I'd like to say it's cheating but is it any different than rock shoes? I guess I'll have to climb in bare feet if I want to criticize their use. I never liked wads of tape either as I thought that was cheating too.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 30, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
Harry I think it is like anything else, with a coating of rubber you lose the sensitivity, but it may be necessary for protection ;)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 31, 2013 - 01:19am PT
Funny stuff, Dave and Harry. It reminds me of when I did RNWFHD with Daryl. I got to lead Thank God Ledge and there was this fat kid hanging on to the diving board that sticks out over the face with his mom right behind him. I was down hand-traversing the ledge and decided to give them a show. I got all desperate-looking and kicked my legs out and flailed and screamed. The mom grabbed her kid and panicked and I stopped and hung off one arm and waved and smiled. Boy was she pissed. Daryl was first on top and I don't know what was said but he sure was laughing and they were gone down the cables. Daryl then just did this manly hand-over-hand haul with the 9mil as I tried and gave up setting up a pulley.
Good times.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
So, that's Wild Turkey? Jeez, I don't remember even a little about it. I DO remember drinking Wild Turkey after the FA (or was it before?). Thanks for the post up, MH2. I'm gonna save this one.

Eyonkee- i'm thinking it was before?? ;)

Nice pics guys! Very cool angle on clean crack Ryan!

Rad stories Dave and Harry!

We got out today. We met up with Nina and Kyle at Ronins and she jumped on sammy's frog to get her redpoint.

Nina on Sammy's frog 10c
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Andy, is that the start of sunblessed?
MH2

climber
Sep 2, 2013 - 01:16am PT
The photo with Karel in handjammies is Stephanie's Tears. Who is Stephanie and why is she teary?








I could be wrong about the name. But the route that starts here connects to it and to High Mountain Woody.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Of course it is! Super fun climb. Sandra and i did it awhile ago with Nina and Kyle, but i started via the Gonch pull variation that goes straight through the "cuturally modified" cedar. Instead of stepping right at the neighbourhood bully bolt.
MH2

climber
Sep 3, 2013 - 12:11pm PT


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 3, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Ahhhh, Stephanie's tears. I love that thing, guess its been a while. Pretty sure that stump there was a full size tree last time I did it? Not the stump with the wiener on it but the other one.

Edit- fight club!

No way, never seen anyone up there either.

Great shot Andy?

Big Mike, I like that shot of yours too! Nice light, is that the climb right of MCM?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 3, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Fight Club = original last pitch of Mayday.

I have fond memories of gingerly stepping onto the Big Bro in the flare while solo aiding that thing in the 90s.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 3, 2013 - 12:59pm PT



Credit: thekidcormier

Shart in the dark but does anyone want to let me read their copy of Alpinist, so i can catch up of the myths and the mayhem? I'll trade a couple cups of coffee. :)
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
Why was the name changed from Mayday?

Have we had this discussion on here - the one of re-naming routes after they're freed?

While writing the Alpinist piece, I heard from one old-timer that he really really disliked the practice of changing the name of the old route after the FFA.

His thoughts , and I agree with them , are that the first people to climb the route are the first to climb the thing aid or no aid. The name should just remain intact and not be changed because it's now "free".

I agree with it particularly with regards to FFAs. While some are redpointed on sight, others are projects. So are there degrees to FFAs ? Yes I think there are. So now when buddy#1 does the worked-over-time version of the FFA and renames the route, does buddy#2 come along, redpoint it and change the name too because it's now an arguably different ascent?

Anyway. Some Tuesday morning thoughts........feel free to disagree with me but don't call me names.

Oh, and, full disclosure - I'm not sure if I ever was part of an FFA where the name was changed. I might have been. But I don't recall our gang changing route names after FFAs as a regular practice.

LUKE EDIT : I've got plenty of copies for you to have one. Please PM me with how we might get it to you.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
Oh, and, full disclosure - I'm not sure if I ever was part of an FFA where the name was changed. I might have been. But I don't recall our gang changing route names after FFAs as a regular practice.

Lol.. We've been down this road a few times Tami! ;) Does "Mad Dog and Englishman" ring a bell? ;) I know you weren't involved with "The Shadow" but that seemed to set a precedent as well. Of course, not all names are victims, "Cobra Crack" being one example. It seems to depend on the ffa'ist.

Nice pic Andy, love that 75-200mm.

Ryan- Yup, the Barley slab route next to mcm.
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
Which route is that Luke?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
Grinnn........ Isn't it Mad Englishman and Dog ? There's a story there & it's pretty funny.

I spoze I see it a lot at Squamish - renaming old routes that is.

Was kinda going to bat on behalf of HM who told me he hates climbers doing that. Said it takes away from the original FA.

When ME&Dog was done it was expressly done to piss off a very specific person.

And "The Shadow" is but one pitch on a multi-pitch wall so I understand that one. ( I wasn't on that one btw )

Mike can you tell kidcormier I have a copy of #43 with his name on it. We need to get it to him tho' :-D
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Tami YOu old goose you!

What about routes that have a free name and an Aid name such as 'Strange Brew' for example, an easier finish to cannabis wall that deviates around the aid crux of Sutton and Burtons 'BreakfastRun'. When Climbed free it is know as 'Midnight Run'.

I think in this case it was givin both names by Andrew Boyd(?), not change by someone else.

it would seem pretty arrogant to have the "I freed it I deserve to change the name" attitude.

But dubbing it with a free name kinda makes its more clear what style you climbed it or aspire to climb it.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Honk ! Honk !

Using the two-name system seems like a good idea to me esp if the "new" name isn't too different than the original one. Breakfast Run / Midnight Run seems like a good qualifier.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
feel free to disagree with me but don't call me names.

Bird-doo head! Toilet Face!!!

And for what it's worth, a climber who frees a formerly aided line and wants to change the name has pretty much zero chance to do so unless the guidebook writer agrees. There's a very strong old-boy-network thing involved here.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
Bring it to the party this weekend Tami! ;)

Isn't the renaming thing, a Yosemite free route tradition as well?
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