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Messages 6141 - 6160 of total 7223 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Aug 29, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
I always thought it was stiff for the grade....

GUFFAW!!!!!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 29, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Hey how's the weather right now down in this "Index" you speak of David?

How would I know? I just got back from five days in the non-climbing capital of the known universe (Saskatoon) and immediately buried myself in work. For all I know Klimmer's illuminati/fallen angels/aliens teleported index to their ark on the far side of the moon and are now looking for an anus to probe.

But if the weather at Index is anything like it was on my bike ride home this evening, it's probably under water to half-way up the Davis-Holland.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
I always thought it was stiff for the grade....

Yeah between that and the GMB at 5.8+ original grade Payan could be quite a dick with his ratings ;)
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 29, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
"Let's give them something to remember."

So I let out a blood-curdling scream and leaped off.

I love that story, did it give you more of a fright than you expected?

It reminded me of being 40m up a western red cedar outside of the zoo in Stanley Park. I was up there removing a widow maker (broken hanging branch) when I heard a tourist asking my groundsman what was up the tree. The tree had very dense foliage so they couldn't see me. Without missing a beat he simple stated that a bear had escaped from the zoo again. That was my cue to let out the best imitation of a loud angry bear. I must of done a good job as through the branches I could see these tourist running at top speed down the path.
MH2

climber
Aug 29, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
^^^^^^^^ Good idea of what to expect in this world.



RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
Nice shot Andy!

Funny stories Harry & Ghost. Scarin tourins, good fun.

I am unable to identify that climb although I feel like I've done it. The fresh cut tree at the base may be an indicator that it looks different now than it once did.

I was however, able to identify the hand Jammie's immediately which makes me hope it turns into a fist crack higher up :-)
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Aug 30, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Rainy Day Dream Away, a suitable climb for that wicked lightning storm we just had.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Aug 30, 2013 - 10:00am PT
Has anyone tried the hand jammies? I have to say it seems like an easy way to avoid learning good hand crack technique. I'd like to say it's cheating but is it any different than rock shoes? I guess I'll have to climb in bare feet if I want to criticize their use. I never liked wads of tape either as I thought that was cheating too.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 30, 2013 - 11:41am PT
Harry I think it is like anything else, with a coating of rubber you lose the sensitivity, but it may be necessary for protection ;)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 30, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
Funny stuff, Dave and Harry. It reminds me of when I did RNWFHD with Daryl. I got to lead Thank God Ledge and there was this fat kid hanging on to the diving board that sticks out over the face with his mom right behind him. I was down hand-traversing the ledge and decided to give them a show. I got all desperate-looking and kicked my legs out and flailed and screamed. The mom grabbed her kid and panicked and I stopped and hung off one arm and waved and smiled. Boy was she pissed. Daryl was first on top and I don't know what was said but he sure was laughing and they were gone down the cables. Daryl then just did this manly hand-over-hand haul with the 9mil as I tried and gave up setting up a pulley.
Good times.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
So, that's Wild Turkey? Jeez, I don't remember even a little about it. I DO remember drinking Wild Turkey after the FA (or was it before?). Thanks for the post up, MH2. I'm gonna save this one.

Eyonkee- i'm thinking it was before?? ;)

Nice pics guys! Very cool angle on clean crack Ryan!

Rad stories Dave and Harry!

We got out today. We met up with Nina and Kyle at Ronins and she jumped on sammy's frog to get her redpoint.

Nina on Sammy's frog 10c
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
Andy, is that the start of sunblessed?
MH2

climber
Sep 1, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
The photo with Karel in handjammies is Stephanie's Tears. Who is Stephanie and why is she teary?








I could be wrong about the name. But the route that starts here connects to it and to High Mountain Woody.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
Of course it is! Super fun climb. Sandra and i did it awhile ago with Nina and Kyle, but i started via the Gonch pull variation that goes straight through the "cuturally modified" cedar. Instead of stepping right at the neighbourhood bully bolt.
MH2

climber
Sep 3, 2013 - 09:11am PT


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 3, 2013 - 09:15am PT
Ahhhh, Stephanie's tears. I love that thing, guess its been a while. Pretty sure that stump there was a full size tree last time I did it? Not the stump with the wiener on it but the other one.

Edit- fight club!

No way, never seen anyone up there either.

Great shot Andy?

Big Mike, I like that shot of yours too! Nice light, is that the climb right of MCM?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 3, 2013 - 09:28am PT
Fight Club = original last pitch of Mayday.

I have fond memories of gingerly stepping onto the Big Bro in the flare while solo aiding that thing in the 90s.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 3, 2013 - 09:59am PT



Credit: thekidcormier

Shart in the dark but does anyone want to let me read their copy of Alpinist, so i can catch up of the myths and the mayhem? I'll trade a couple cups of coffee. :)
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 10:11am PT
Why was the name changed from Mayday?

Have we had this discussion on here - the one of re-naming routes after they're freed?

While writing the Alpinist piece, I heard from one old-timer that he really really disliked the practice of changing the name of the old route after the FFA.

His thoughts , and I agree with them , are that the first people to climb the route are the first to climb the thing aid or no aid. The name should just remain intact and not be changed because it's now "free".

I agree with it particularly with regards to FFAs. While some are redpointed on sight, others are projects. So are there degrees to FFAs ? Yes I think there are. So now when buddy#1 does the worked-over-time version of the FFA and renames the route, does buddy#2 come along, redpoint it and change the name too because it's now an arguably different ascent?

Anyway. Some Tuesday morning thoughts........feel free to disagree with me but don't call me names.

Oh, and, full disclosure - I'm not sure if I ever was part of an FFA where the name was changed. I might have been. But I don't recall our gang changing route names after FFAs as a regular practice.

LUKE EDIT : I've got plenty of copies for you to have one. Please PM me with how we might get it to you.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 10:23am PT
Oh, and, full disclosure - I'm not sure if I ever was part of an FFA where the name was changed. I might have been. But I don't recall our gang changing route names after FFAs as a regular practice.

Lol.. We've been down this road a few times Tami! ;) Does "Mad Dog and Englishman" ring a bell? ;) I know you weren't involved with "The Shadow" but that seemed to set a precedent as well. Of course, not all names are victims, "Cobra Crack" being one example. It seems to depend on the ffa'ist.

Nice pic Andy, love that 75-200mm.

Ryan- Yup, the Barley slab route next to mcm.
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