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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 11, 2014 - 11:05am PT
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Now back to Squamish, 1964.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2014 - 11:12am PT
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Looks like, boomstick maybe?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 11, 2014 - 11:57am PT
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Mike, it is indeed Boomstick Crack, with Arnold Shives. We often soloed it both up and down -- too much hassel rapping it and we generally didn't have a long enough rope to rap straight down.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Nov 12, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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What to do on a rest day in Squamish? Check out the kite boarders... pretty cool to watch! A few low rez photos from back in September:
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 12, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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What to do on a rest day in Squamish? Check out the kite boarders...
We did the same thing in August, and stumbled into some sort of world kiteboarding championships, complete with cheering throngs and hyperloud announcers, and film crews, and booths and beer.
Can't remember if I posted any pictures, but here's one...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 12, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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A lot of those kiteboarders in the shots have a body position where it looks like they are sitting on a toilet, but flying. Ripe for photoshop.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
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Hmmm photoshop eh???
What happened the other day?? I guess i got distracted and then i got home, and the bomb went off...
Let's get things back on track here.
Saturday was fun. Heather and i climbed an extremely wet up up and away lap, and then went to hang out with the boys who was playing on Kahookers.
John on the start of Crime
The crew on the bench
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 13, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
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any signs of ice dribbles around squish yet?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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Yup. Lots of ice on cliffs in the mornings.. Warming up to +3 or 4 during the day however. High ice would be good. -11 out in wack a chill last night??
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 13, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
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Maybe. Going to look tomorrow.
Is that Dug sitting with his legs crossed in back of that photo?
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Nov 18, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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Big Mike Bump!
Look who got on the sharp end today..
November 18, cool, dry granite...priceless :-D
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MH2
climber
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Nov 18, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
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High value this time of year. Good to see a picture of Mike in addition to all the ones by him.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
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Not sure who you are referring to Dru but i think it's Grant rolling a smoke on the far right?
Thanks for the pic Saugy!
Yesterday was fun as Saugy mentioned. I led Penny Lane, but had a little slip up above the first crux. Definitely the hardest thing i've led since my injury.
We set up a tr on crime after.
Saugy rapping down Crime of the Century 11c
My fingers are still sore today..
Then Saugy led Up Up and Away, and we toproped Teenage Girls won't blow gorbies. I had to french free both cruxes... Lol
I have lots more pics from last week, just haven't gotten there yet. I'm hoping to have some more time this week.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Nov 20, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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Someone at UBC's Varsity Outdoor Club recently scanned my 1967 Squamish guide (they were the ones who originally published it). And he asked me for an introduction/retrospective on the guide. Here's the link to both the guide and my comments.
http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Climbers_Guide_to_the_Squamish_Chief
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Nov 20, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
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I believe that Crime of the Century was the only climb I ever did with Peter Croft -- probably in 1978. If I remember correctly (anybody's guess as to what that means), I hung once or twice even on the follow. I remember Peter placing a lot of gear on the lead (I only mention it because, you know), but showing absolute mastery in a way that I had not seen before. It might be purely coincidence that I decided to go back to school the next semester.
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MH2
climber
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Nov 20, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
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Or as Seattle climber John Stoddard told it, "It was a trip watching Croft lead Crime."
With wired stoppers for pro.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Nov 21, 2014 - 07:46am PT
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And then Big Willy turns up and solos your rig
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:26am PT
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Speaking of Mercator, I did some photo digging, here's the whole Cataract area, with Mercator at rear I think?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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Grug! Thanks for the story! That thing sucks up nuts, but they would be tough to place on lead!
Mh2- I bet Peter had that thing "wired"! ;)
Greg - you couldn't fit your sausages into Crime of the Century. That's what was wrong :-)
Me Neither! ;)
Rp's Tami?
We don't need no stinkin' Rp's!
Just gobbles up the small cams and offsets..
(We have peanut offsets now..) ;)
Takes a great Tricam too..
Yes, rp's are still great for really thins stuff..
It's a fun c1 lead..
Kids these days... (Skip to 4:00 to watch Marc hike it)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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Jefe- i saw your post here and i think your subconscious is telling you to book some time off to come north next summer. I have not forgotten your offer.. I've been tying up loose ends and will be getting back to you soon.
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