Squamish Photos and Stories

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Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Oct 17, 2014 - 11:50pm PT
Thats some "Heavy Duty" vegetation management!

My sediments excatly...
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 22, 2014 - 06:42pm PT
Today's bump is brought to you by chickenheads



I see they had a special event in honor of Tricouni at the GSA conference that just wrapped up, by the way.

May he bag peaks and geologize for years to come!
Sonic

Trad climber
Boulder, Co
Oct 28, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
climbing bump
bm

Social climber
pluto
Oct 29, 2014 - 10:01am PT
Well in the finest climber tradition of dragging names thru the mud, it seems a regular pos(t)er on this thread was once upon a time involved in the film industry, and in a climbing capacity no less!

I hadn't watched the uber-cheezzzzy climbing flick K2 since it was in the cinema haus, and the acting is even worse than the vapid plot. The climbing scenes, however, (in the Anderson River group and the Waddington Range) are the only redeeming features of this major stinker (check out the ratings and comments on Rotten Tomatoes).

So, would the involved party (see K2 klimbing kredits below) care to tell some stories and answer some key questions like,

1) How did a duffel bag full of gear get left at the base of the climb? (the one that Edwards/Spagnut found when they did their ascent)

2) What the hell did Grimace do without his purple leggings?

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 30, 2014 - 09:29am PT
Nice pics bm TFPU


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
I miss bmacd..

Bruce Kay?? Cool! Thanks for that. Any comment Bruce?

Thanks for that smoke bluffs shot Andy! Looking good!

Nice bump Dru.

I know i've been slacking here lately... I promise to make up for it soon!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
What the heck happened to this thread?? Where is that big mike guy?? Doesn't he climb in Squamish anymore??


It's dry here today.. Sorta.. ;)
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 8, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
Love the colours of those leaves!
MH2

climber
Nov 8, 2014 - 03:51pm PT
Never saw that view before, Mike. It's a good one.

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 8, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
I just saw Lurker Kyle and Nina on their way to Red Rocks. They had that stoke and now their kit is complete. Happy trails for one of Squamishes' coolest couples.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 10, 2014 - 11:09am PT
BIG MIKE BUMP!

Hey, not really Squamish, except I saw Marc-Andre and Brette do a slideshow here in da Wack last week. Marc mentioned that when he went up to do Navigator Wall on Slesse south peak he "could only find one previous trip report online" about it - Darin's on cascadeclimbers, I'm pretty sure.

I know the route gets done infrequently but from what I remember MH2 also did it around 10 years ago. So, MH2 is that correct? If so can you post some pics and stories?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 10, 2014 - 11:59am PT
How did a duffel bag full of gear get left at the base of the climb? (the one that Edwards/Spagnut found when they did their ascent)

And why did we find a whole helicopter sling full of K2 gear on the glacier on our way from the Plummer hut to Mt. Mercator
MH2

climber
Nov 10, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
Since it was a BIG MIKE BUMP, I'll carry over his pic from the previous page:




Mike Spagnutt once wanted us to do Navigator but for reasons I don't recall we redirected to the Nesakwatch.

The only story I know is Bryan Burdo telling me about being up there and bad weather closing in and him starting to worry, when Pete Doorish calmly set up to wait it out. The Bivuoac King, Bryan called him. I don't know if that was the FA or an attempt.

I seem to remember Greg Child describing an ascent. Like certain other Cascades routes, it may be that no two parties do it the same.

It seems likely that the name comes from the 1988 Vincent Ward film, The Navigator: A Medieval Odyssey

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 10, 2014 - 01:21pm PT
It seems likely that the name comes from the 1988 Vincent Ward film, The Navigator: A Medieval Odyssey

I thought it came from the job description of the guy who flew the plane into the mountain, personally
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 10, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
And why did we find a whole helicopter sling full of K2 gear on the glacier on our way from the Plummer hut to Mt. Mercator

Did you climb Mercator on that trip? If so, it would have been the 2nd ascent.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
Thanks guys! You guys rule! Not a great day, thanks for the bump.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 10, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
Thanks guys! You guys rule! Not a great day, thanks for the bump.

We've all been where you are Mike. And I'm tempted to say "So don't worry, we all did okay." But you've met us all, so you know that's bullsh#t, and that in fact you're doomed. You're going to turn out just like all of us wrinkly old f*#ks that haunt Supertopo.

Did you climb Mercator on that trip? If so, it would have been the 2nd ascent.

Good question! What in tarnation were you doing going way over there? We were pretty sure no one would stumble on our toxic waste dump overvthere....
Any good loot in the mercator net load?

Did we climb Mercator? Ummm... I'm not sure, but I think not quite. Been a while, but I think it started storming. Or maybe it was getting dark? We had a Scottish physicist tied in between us, so maybe it had something to do with the ultimate uncertainty of summits?

I really don't remember. It was a trip organized by the Alpine Club of Canada, and populated with a lot of people who seemed really old to me at the time. The ACC had hired a couple of guides to shepherd the Club members up some easy peaks in the region -- Karl Nagy (RIP brother) and Barry Blanchard, I think -- and somehow Don Serl and I got to tag along on the Club's nickel.

And one day Mr. Serl said: "Tom, would you like to climb Mt. Mercator?" And Tom, likely not knowing the difference between Mt. Mercator and the south face of Mt. Olympus on Mars, said "Aye lad, why not?" And off we went. On the approach we stumbled upon the helo sling, full of stuff we didn't need, didn't want, and didn't have the capacity to take home anyway.

I did grab an ancient ice screw, and a short little bamboo stick with a piece of climbing tape wrapped on the end with a drawing of a movie camera and "K2" written on it. But the rest we left there.

And then Dr. Tom dropped out of sight, but it was okay cuz we'd had the rope fairly tight and he didn't die and we all had a laugh. And then we trudged onward to Mercator and clambered up and up and up, but I think eventually we stopped before we ran out of up.

Don kept track of summits much more religiously than I did, so you could ask him, but I think it started snowing and we decided it would be prudent to start for home while we could still see. But I may be wrong, and perhaps we did make the second ascent. I really don't know.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Nov 10, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
David, I talked with Surly about Mercator some years ago. He didn't get up it - something about giant schrunds, or difficulties getting off the snow, or something. So it looks as if the peak has had but one ascent. It's a long, long ways from the upper Tellot. I might have a good photo somewhere.

Mike and Sandra, you guys do what you have to do: as D and T say, it'll all work out, somehow. Your friends won't think any the less of you, regardless of how things turn out.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 11, 2014 - 10:24am PT
something about giant schrunds, or difficulties getting off the snow, or something.

That makes more sense. My memory was of something stopping us, and I thought it had been snow beginning to fall. But I also remembger getting great views of evening light on the Wadd range as we were returning to camp -- which is pretty unlikely if it was snowing.

Whatever. It was a fine day out with the Serl. And the little K2 movie camera drawing on its mini flagpole lived on my desk for a long time after.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2014 - 10:28am PT
Sh!t happens. I'll probably be better off. Let's leave it out of this thread. Don't delete, but check out Juan's depression deal.
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