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Messages 6101 - 6120 of total 8241 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Aug 27, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
I followed perry up Hicksville - excellent techy stuff deserving of a retro scrub much like some other Beckham masterpieces down there. ..... Strawline and Loggers are Poodles Too, Also Andrews Happy Hooker and his other thin crack other side of Quagmire. Also Invertigo.

Another interesting possibility is Caboose arrete. This was bolted then chopped sometime in the nineties but I don't recall the politics.

I see its raining out there?
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Aug 27, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
I remember the Caboose arete listed as a top-rope problem in the guidebook. The name Keith fukin Reid attached to it as I recall vaguely.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Aug 27, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
I take back my earlier assertion. Right-side-in is looking like the right way to do Wild Turkey. I should have just shut up after telling you I don't remember it so well.

It's a beautiful-looking climb...beautiful, wish I remembered it better.
MH2

climber
Aug 28, 2013 - 12:02am PT
Wild Turkey is a beautiful line on brilliant rock in a great setting. But it is the Devil in it that makes it so attractive.

Might not help the memory, but here is the rest of the main pitch.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 28, 2013 - 12:54am PT
But it is the Devil in it that makes it so attractive.

I can see two guys in the picture. Which one of them is the Devil?
MH2

climber
Aug 28, 2013 - 10:44am PT
I wish i had stayed long enough to find out. I had just dropped Robert off at his van and was taking the pictures from down by the highway. It was evening and I had a perfectly good reason to get home though I can't remember what it was.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 29, 2013 - 02:24am PT
Here's an easy one. Bonus points for the climber (because I'm not sure...)

Credit: Tricouni
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Aug 29, 2013 - 02:36am PT
That face crack on the Papoose.....
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 29, 2013 - 03:14am PT
Mushroom.


Hamie :-)


Awesome shot!


Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:25am PT
The bolt ladder on Mushroom! That things gotta be A4 now with all the rust...
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 29, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Yep, the bolt ladder on Mushroom. Seemed pointless to me then. Seems pointless to me now.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 29, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Seemed pointless to me then. Seems pointless to me now.

Clipping my way up that ladder was far less enjoyable than nailing the crack below, that's for sure.

Yes, that was the way I first climbed Mushroom -- with a rack of angles and a hammer. Weird, but pretty normal at the time.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 29, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Yep, that's how I got up it, too. Times change, don't they?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
I think my first time on Mushroom may have been with MH2 and if it was it was the climb that persuaded me to switch from Ballets to something less clunky.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 29, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Yep, that's how I got up it, too. Times change, don't they?

The very first time I climbed it my job was removing the pins my partner had banged in. When I reached the belay, he said "Don't look down, but a carload of people have stopped and are watching us." He gave me a bunch of slack and said "Let's give them something to remember."

So I let out a blood-curdling scream and leaped off.

I don't remember how much slack he'd given me -- probably not more than eight or ten feet -- but I'm sure it was enough to give the spectators a heart attack or two.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Aug 29, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
Nice story, Ghost! I wouldn't have wanted to do that with just a bowline around the waist and a hip belay...

Mushroom was often the first multipitch aid climb that people did because it was easy and straightforward.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 29, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
What's up top, or what was up top of that bolt ladder? Does it go right to the top?? I did mushroom last week & those old bolts sure look......old.

Edit- I did 1/2 of mushroom technically :-)
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
According to my Jim Campbell guide there was a short aid corner above the upper fault, but the big deal is the opportunity to A2 nail the upper fault all the way left (Horizontally Prone) to where Transit of Venus is now.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Aug 29, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
Possibly considering driving up your guys' way at the end of September. Typically, how's the weather for climbing at that time of year? I've never been to Squamish before.
gf

climber
Aug 29, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
horizontally prone -check the CLASSIC line in smaills' guide on this one.
"this climb best describes the first ascentionists drinking habits, strictly lightweights"
i asked one of the FA's Daryl Hatten about this -he claims it was Eric Weinstein, his partner on the route that good drunk under the table by the hardcore.....
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