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Messages 6001 - 6020 of total 7610 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Jan 7, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
How did you manage to fit Unbearded Kyle into one of those little snow globes ?

SB faves: Split Beaver, Red Nails, Short People
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 7, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
bluffs faves: old age, cold comfort, where's roxie, the gmb, monkey king?
mostly because they are or were never busy
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 12:15am PT
Faves? Hmm.. Burgers and Fries, Mosquito, Penny Lane, Orifice Fish, Flying Circus, Twenty Minute Workout, Centre Street, Climb and Punishment, Partners in Crime, Crime of the Century.


I put a few more images together today from the other day, hope you enjoy!


From Saturday:

Kyle trying to figure out the start of Last Post



Sunday I had a few errands to run in the morning so i didn't meet up with the boys until a bit later.

When i showed up, Grant was slaying Ridgerunner and i took a few shots of the crag before i went around the corner.

It was a gorgeous day at Ronins


Ryan on Ridge Runner, hdr version



Good ol' fashioned 1's and 0's.



Ryan had been wanting to try and combine Mcm with Skydancing, he called it "Weeniedancing".

Ryan on Weeniedancing 10c



Looking up Mcm


Finishing up..


The crowd


looks like we're finally going to get some weather this week! Those of us who like to ski or board are definitely looking forward to that!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Jan 8, 2014 - 12:46am PT
Great pictures Mike.

I wish I had time to draw a camera recently when the bikers dragged me along like a blob of hamburger. The bicycle mountaineering in the forests of Squamish is full value.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 8, 2014 - 01:11am PT
Some nice shots Mike! Weenie dancing is a good link up if ur a weenie!

Jim B u actually like red nails?!?! Masochist! I'm with u on the beaver tho, such a great crack.

BK u r right, all kinds of adventure to be had in the little smoke bluffs. What's little feet(feat)?


Hmm fav smoke bluff climbs not yet mentioned........



Skydancing

Neat & cool

The zip

Sunny days in december

Health hazard

Asleep at the wheel

Talking holds


I think all bluffs climbs lose a star in the summer & gain one in the winter. Just something about the stone there climbs so much better when it's cold.







Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 8, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
Isn't Little Feet that 10c arete left of Digital Dexterity?
I remember doing that rig with MH2 and again 10 yrs later with Mer the next time it was clean.
It's fun, but it grows a five oclock shadow faster than an East German woman wrestler so it's best to form a line as soon as the retroscrub is finished.
MH2

climber
Jan 8, 2014 - 01:49pm PT
Yup. Thanks to whoever cleaned it just before we got there last time.




Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Thanks Bruce! As far as i know there wasn't any pooping.. Unless Nick left something out? ;) He did lose it pretty good when his knee got stuck tho. I was glad to be able to calm him down a bit and coax him through it, rather than having to crawl over there and pull it out for him. We were so close, yet so far. :)

Edit: Very nice Mh2. How's the pro on that rig?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 8, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
I've posted this somewhere before, but since there have been several recent mentions of Digital Dexterity, here's a shot of the first ascent.

I didn't have a partner one morning, so took my hammer and a rack of pins into the bluffs and banged my way up a crack. Old wave A3. Now it's what? 12a?

Digital Dexterity before it required digital dexterity
Digital Dexterity before it required digital dexterity
Credit: Ghost
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
Nice ghost. I'm sure all the digital dexterity fans are thanking you for those nice piton holds!

Jim you should have your little point and shoot on hand for trail riding!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 8, 2014 - 04:59pm PT
And I'm sure that your pitoning was much appreciated by whoever sinks their pinky tips in there.

It was surprisingly hard aid. Not really serious, but harder than I expected. As to appreciation from the pinky-tips brigade, I probably didn't help them that much with my one ascent, and I doubt it ever had another aid ascent. Who would bother? The only reason I did it was cuz I was alone and bored on a Saturday morning. It's what? 15 meters high, max?

Nice looking little problem for fingers and toes, although it was always beyond me.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 8, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
I know it had more than one ascent 'cause there's a story about Enrico Kindl and Andy Pacheco (maybe?) practicing aiding on it in in an 80s VOCJ. I think the story involves ripping a copperhead in a fall.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 8, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
Digital Dexterity is actually quite a fine rainy day activity. Equalizing the first two bolts as an anchor and then fiddling with cam hooks and beaks past the rest of the bolts provides for a few cheap thrills and much inner turmoil whilst the camhooks rattle around and one is forced to wonder if their friends will ridicule them for cratering on a sport climb..
MH2

climber
Jan 8, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
Yes. Same thing with Little Feat. The ground is too close. Gear is there but not necessarily going to save you.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 8, 2014 - 08:33pm PT
Ahh brownie, excellent.

I aided digital dexterity with cam hooks & quickdraws last winter in the rain one day with brownie. Perhaps the prime of my illustrious aid climbing career, it probably only took me an hour. I just couldn't bring myself to skip those shiny bolts as I had already considered & knew the answer to brownies fears. It is now a sandbag 12c "sport" climb if u have fings the size of a 6 year old girl.

You should have done it a few more times ghost, & swung a little harder :-)


Oh & did u name it ghost or was the name Jola Sandfords doing when she bolted/freed it??



Oh! That's little feet, yes I remember now- it has a bolt but a runout feel with not much else in the way of reassuring gear. It was a good one, to do once. There is a variation as well that climbs more direct that is also worth doing, once.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 8, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
Are u talking left of frail scales Bruce?? If so there was a freeclimbing jihad put on those shorter lines a few years back. A la Moorhead I think. They may be in the newer select guide.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 9, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
You should have done it a few more times ghost, & swung a little harder :-)
Oh & did u name it ghost or was the name Jola Sandfords doing when she bolted/freed it??

No, I didn't name it. As far as I know it wasn't named til Jola climbed it.

The only things I remember about it are that it was fairly tricky, and that I didn't use any heads or beaks or hooks or camhooks. Just pins -- Leepers, angles, and blades. With lots of stacking.

I'd left my camera on the ground and when Corina and John Wittmayer got back from whatever they'd climbed, one of them shot a couple of pictures.
gf

climber
Jan 9, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
heads or beaks or hooks or camhooks. Just pins -- Leepers, angles, and blades. With lots of stacking.
Ghost, -Mr Hatten always maintained that far too many folks resorted to heads for the simple reason they were too lazy to figure out how to craft a good pin stack, which as you know can be a pretty bomber thing of beauty esp if a leeper is employed and those 3 points of contact on each side were wacked into providing wedging tension -vastly superior to a blob of pasted copper or alum. I can hear Daryl cackling at you from the grave as I type this "harris, you're light! with pin stacks and hammer blows to the brain direct(!) that thing is A2 max"
gf

climber
Jan 9, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
beats a copperhead ;/ -and technically i think it was spring by around 12 hrs
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 9, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
The other good thing about leeper Z stacks is that they exert lots of outwards force.

Back in the days when logging road gates didn't have the big guard bell over the lock and there was easier access directly to the lock, we discovered that a Leeper Z, two angles, and a good hammering would pop the lock open on many locked gates. Almost like a skeleton key.

Ding ding ding, pop!
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