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Messages 6001 - 6020 of total 9014 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 8, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
I know it had more than one ascent 'cause there's a story about Enrico Kindl and Andy Pacheco (maybe?) practicing aiding on it in in an 80s VOCJ. I think the story involves ripping a copperhead in a fall.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 8, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
Digital Dexterity is actually quite a fine rainy day activity. Equalizing the first two bolts as an anchor and then fiddling with cam hooks and beaks past the rest of the bolts provides for a few cheap thrills and much inner turmoil whilst the camhooks rattle around and one is forced to wonder if their friends will ridicule them for cratering on a sport climb..
MH2

climber
Jan 8, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
Yes. Same thing with Little Feat. The ground is too close. Gear is there but not necessarily going to save you.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 8, 2014 - 08:33pm PT
Ahh brownie, excellent.

I aided digital dexterity with cam hooks & quickdraws last winter in the rain one day with brownie. Perhaps the prime of my illustrious aid climbing career, it probably only took me an hour. I just couldn't bring myself to skip those shiny bolts as I had already considered & knew the answer to brownies fears. It is now a sandbag 12c "sport" climb if u have fings the size of a 6 year old girl.

You should have done it a few more times ghost, & swung a little harder :-)


Oh & did u name it ghost or was the name Jola Sandfords doing when she bolted/freed it??



Oh! That's little feet, yes I remember now- it has a bolt but a runout feel with not much else in the way of reassuring gear. It was a good one, to do once. There is a variation as well that climbs more direct that is also worth doing, once.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 8, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
Are u talking left of frail scales Bruce?? If so there was a freeclimbing jihad put on those shorter lines a few years back. A la Moorhead I think. They may be in the newer select guide.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 9, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
You should have done it a few more times ghost, & swung a little harder :-)
Oh & did u name it ghost or was the name Jola Sandfords doing when she bolted/freed it??

No, I didn't name it. As far as I know it wasn't named til Jola climbed it.

The only things I remember about it are that it was fairly tricky, and that I didn't use any heads or beaks or hooks or camhooks. Just pins -- Leepers, angles, and blades. With lots of stacking.

I'd left my camera on the ground and when Corina and John Wittmayer got back from whatever they'd climbed, one of them shot a couple of pictures.
gf

climber
Jan 9, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
heads or beaks or hooks or camhooks. Just pins -- Leepers, angles, and blades. With lots of stacking.
Ghost, -Mr Hatten always maintained that far too many folks resorted to heads for the simple reason they were too lazy to figure out how to craft a good pin stack, which as you know can be a pretty bomber thing of beauty esp if a leeper is employed and those 3 points of contact on each side were wacked into providing wedging tension -vastly superior to a blob of pasted copper or alum. I can hear Daryl cackling at you from the grave as I type this "harris, you're light! with pin stacks and hammer blows to the brain direct(!) that thing is A2 max"
gf

climber
Jan 9, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
beats a copperhead ;/ -and technically i think it was spring by around 12 hrs
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 9, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
The other good thing about leeper Z stacks is that they exert lots of outwards force.

Back in the days when logging road gates didn't have the big guard bell over the lock and there was easier access directly to the lock, we discovered that a Leeper Z, two angles, and a good hammering would pop the lock open on many locked gates. Almost like a skeleton key.

Ding ding ding, pop!
gf

climber
Jan 9, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
yup dec 85 -but that beat the hell out of another one of the raps where we wrapped tie-off webbing around a rectangular rock-built a cairn on it and called it good to go....it was the second weekend in dec iirc -so again technically not a winter ascent.....
edit -great one drew!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 9, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
Funny stuff guys.


Ahhh dec 85. Great year, I was a few months into kindergarten & innsecantly begging my parents to go to expo 86 the next summer to ride the scream machine. Sadly I was too short by about an inch and a half when the day actually arrived months later. Probably scarred from that denial to this day.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 9, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
Mr Hatten always maintained that far too many folks resorted to heads for the simple reason they were too lazy to figure out how to craft a good pin stack, which as you know can be a pretty bomber thing of beauty esp if a leeper is employed

Leeper stacks were almost like cheating. Like the difference between old rubber and the new sticky rubber, or between hexes and spring-loaded cams. And yes, far more secure in most cases than a pasted head.

Edit:

I can hear Daryl cackling at you from the grave as I type this "harris, you're light! with pin stacks and hammer blows to the brain direct(!) that thing is A2 max"

Well, compared to Daryl, I am light. But then, compared to Daryl, who wasn't light?
gf

climber
Jan 9, 2014 - 04:59pm PT
Yeah lucky for us and sadly for daryl we were light in all manner of ways.....
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Jan 9, 2014 - 07:54pm PT
Ryan,

By '86 we were all riding scream machines...
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 9, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
Sexpo! Where thousands of teenage boys & girls first got laid.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
I also missed out on the sex part of expo! Dammit. I was 8.. Lol

We did go tho. Somehow i don't remember riding the screamer..
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Jan 9, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
I bet you would have made the height requirement, Mike.
MH2

climber
Jan 11, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
Thanks Bruce!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 12, 2014 - 12:13am PT
Nice Bruce! Classic stuff, keep em comin eh!

Killer toque Hamish!
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Jan 12, 2014 - 12:25am PT
You can call us the f team till the cows come home but I gotta say that was real mans' work.
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