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Messages 5941 - 5960 of total 7955 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 21, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
Cool stuff mikegrai!


Thanks for the TR.

One teeny correction tho, the 10c pitch on the buttress is no longer a bottleneck, it actually is rarely climbed since the advent of the buttface, which is nice because it actually keeps traffic moving a little better. Cheers!


Day of The Lord!
Day of The Lord!
Credit: RyanD
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 23, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Just back from three days in Squ'ish. Didn't take any pictures, but had the good fortune to run into Big Mike up on Shannon Falls Wall on Saturday, and then again at dinner that night.

And speaking of Shannon Falls Wall, y'all should get your asses up to the far right end, and get on Chewbacca. It's the re-scrubbed version of an ancient aid route called Snot. Three really good pitches of immaculately clean granite. I don't know who did the re-scrub, but my hat is off to him/her/them. Great route in a great position.

MH2

climber
Jul 23, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Good choice. We were preceded on the route by Nina and Kyle and Ryan and probably many others.






Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 23, 2013 - 01:37am PT
bump, and thanks y'all.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 23, 2013 - 02:17am PT
Yeah Chewbacas was fun.

So is sunset strip. Lots of short, fun 5.10 pitches, many can be linked.

Charles way up in the wide.
Charles way up in the wide.
Credit: RyanD



So many fun new routes here, it's ridiculous. Hats off to all the climbers who unearth these routes.
MH2

climber
Jul 23, 2013 - 10:13am PT
The route developers work hard. They are also good at reading subtle clues in the rock.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:27am PT
sticky fingers

didn't that used to be 5.9 and it's 10c now?
MH2

climber
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:32am PT
It was 5.9 the way Slot Machine is 5.8. Hard moves off the ground are often discounted. Colin fixed that.
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:57am PT
Wow what a great scrub on Sticky Fingers. Ivan dragged that big boulder to the base of the route with a come a long to get past the first few blank moves.

A bit of trivia, I named the route Sticky finger after someone stole my fixed scrubbing rope from the route, and for months afterwards I would find sections of it as rap anchours in Squamish.

And finally a long over due confession with a bit of a preamble.

I met Ivan just after the white painter pants era in Squamish and just at the start of the lycra period. I saw him soloing 5.7 cracks in cowboy boots, jeans, and a mackinaw shirt. Being curious about this enigma, I struck up a conversation with the shy giant, he explained pointy cowboy boots worked really well in the cracks. He was definitely not your typical Squamish climber. Back then this 210 LB tough logger sported tats all over his arms , hands and neck, with a bee on his right fist to remind you how that could sting. Back then he wore his baseball cap backwards long before it was hip or popular. Definitely a redneck loner, but I was impressed by his raw talent.

I introduced him to the world of Squamish cracks and slabs. which he mastered dam quickly and during the 5-7 years we climbed together he danced his way up some of the hardest slab climbs in Squamish and together we put up our share of soon to be forgotten first ascents.

So back to Sticky Fingers, after a few weeks of climbing with me, I introduced Ivan to scrubbing and digging out first ascents. I had poked around the base of the Rutabaga and seen a great 5.10 crack line that was guarded by a blank 5.12 slab. Ivan in his innocence saw an obvious solution. take a come-a-long ,drag a two ton boulder to the base as a convenient cheater stone. An obvious solution but still short of getting to the coveted crack which I had already scrubbed. We agreed to meet next Saturday and work out a solution, in retrospect I guess I should have spent a bit more time explaining the ethics of climbing to Ivan.

Next Saturday, a typical dismal drizzling day in Squamish, Ivan was already at the base of the route and as I hiked up, I heard this repeated cha ching, cha ching, of metal on rock. I arrived and to my horror Ivan had chiseled some convenient scoops to get past the blank slab, in his naivety he found the obvious solution! I enlightened him on the ethical transgression he had just committed, raced back to town, bought a can of blackish granite spray paint while he rounded out the obvious chip marks and then we blended them in with a well camouflaged paint job.

The route went at a fine moderate 5.10 minus grade with a cruxy slab start to gain the crack. This probably wasnít the first route to be enhanced at Squamish, but it was definitely Ivanís only and last. We had a quite a few more misadventures over the next few years but also many great times.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 24, 2013 - 08:03am PT
great yarn Rolf. I've never met Ivan - is he still around?

The solution I always used there was to grab a sturdy branch out of the bush for a ladder. Why let some stupid 10 foot ankle breaker slab wreck a great crack climb? There's a few routes like that. Chimp Dip for instance. It dosn't take much ankle damage to destroy a climbing career. Just ask Mark Gandy.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jul 24, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
Credit: brownie

Ryan and I linked up Border Line to High Plains Drifter yesterday and had a Totally Rad time.

If the "Chief" happens across this post; any stories, or interesting info concerning the F.A. would be super cool..

what a beaty crack, from the stream of cool air leaking forth from the bowels of the chief, to the wild position on the arete, to the wild burn one feels as they muscle through the last moves to the chains, it is by far some of the best climbing either of us have encountered on the squamish big stone.

kudos to all who paved the way for us weenies..

brownie

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 24, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
GREAT PHOTO, K ! ^^^^^
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jul 24, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
All this action is keeping this armchair athlete thoroughly motivated for some when life settles down a bit.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 24, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
All this action is keeping this armchair athlete thoroughly motivated for some when life settles down a bit.

Best wishes for that Harry.

I was hoping to see you at the festival, but maybe next time...
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jul 25, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Thanks Dave for that. I certainly would of liked to made it up to meet you and all the other skallywags and enjoy Tami's presentation. Also with all this route development it's going to seem like a brand new venue when I start my second childhood. There have been a few setbacks but other than that my wife is doing very well.

Anymore mysterious rope disappearances?
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 25, 2013 - 10:57am PT
Fantastic stories just keep coming from ya'll! Finally in the last week of waiting before my 2nd Squamish trip (1st was years back for skiing up the road). Hopefully I can score some great shots and share them. You guys think we'll see an increase in traffic, and fewer camping options due to Crankworx being held in 2 weeks?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 25, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
Thread drift here, but speaking of Crankworx, here's a video from last year...

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 27, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Live report from Squamish.


If u look at the Squaw in the next hr or so u may see a couple supersqamptians not wearing jeans up on pipeloads. Good luck boys.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jul 27, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Good luck, Ryan! I want to hear how it went.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
I can see them!! It looks like the leader is just about to start ripping some flesh! ;)

Send it boys! Hope you taped your backs! Lol
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