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Messages 5941 - 5960 of total 7233 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 16, 2013 - 10:09am PT
Yup little Marc is killing it these days!
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 16, 2013 - 10:25am PT
WOW!!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 16, 2013 - 10:31am PT
Nice Marc!


Looks like a good time up on memorial ledge there!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 16, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Just read Marc-Andre's account. WOW WOW WOW !!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Yeah Marc! Crazy link up dude! Congrats!

I'm hanging with Todd and Ben today at Shannon Falls.

Todd on Kalhanie Crack
mikegrai

climber
ON
Jul 21, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
First trip to Squamish - had a blast.
Just got back from two weeks in Squamish, and thanks to incredible weather and great luck with climbing partners, I had an amazing trip.

Things got a bit complicated to start. My flight from Kitchener was delayed when a bee flew into the airspeed indicator tube and Westjet had to get a tech in from Toronto to check things out. I missed my connection in Calgary and had to sleep in the airport ( no rooms available because of the Stampede and flood victims) but got to Vancouver the next morning, picked up my rental car, drove to Squamish, checked into my Airbnb reservation, and crashed.

Next day I was on my own, so I sampled the bouldering at the Great Wall Titanic North and South areas - great fun.

Plam then arrived for a 4 day stay, as planned. At the last minute, Danylo stopped in on the way between Rainier and the Grand Teton. Unexpectedly, he ended up being stranded in Squamish (tough luck!) when his two road companions had return to Toronto immediately because of a climbing injury. He decided to make the best of it and throw in his lot with me for the full two weeks.

We had a great run at moderate classics in the area. I won't go into a blow-by-blow description, but here is a list of Squamish Top 100 (as selected by Marc Bourdon in Squamish Select 2012) routes we ticked off:

Beginner's Luck 5.5 single pitch trad (Murrin Park)
Klahanie Crack 5.7 single pitch trad (Shannon Falls)
Laughing Crack 5.7 single pitch trad (Smoke Bluffs)
Banana Peel 5.7 8 pitches trad (The Apron) - not a bad way to spend my 60th birthday
Sky Walker 5.8 5 pitches trad (Shannon Falls)
Slot Machine 5.8 2 pitches trad (The Bulletheads)
Diedre 5.8 6 pitches trad (The Apron)
Quarryman 5.8 single pitch trad (Smoke Bluffs)
Octopus' Garden in the Shade 5.8 single pitch trad (Smoke Bluffs)
World's Toughest Milkman 5.9 single pitch trad (Murrin Park)
Zoe 5.10a single pitch sport (Murrin Park)
Rocky Horror 5.10a single pitch sport (Area 44)


Skywalker - this is on the namesake traversing pitch four - 5.6 climbing in a fantastic position!
Credit: mikegrai

Shannon Falls
Credit: mikegrai

Credit: mikegrai
Slot Machine - great crack climbing after a bouldery start that seemed a lot harder than 5.8. I had to drop my rack, make a few moves, put in a piece at a so-so stance, haul the rack up and reorganize, then continue on - somewhat nerve wracking! Directly above is Dora's Delight, a mostly bolted 5.8 slab exercise - makes a nice linkup.


We got in many other quality climbs, among the most notable of which was Calculus Crack with the new Direct Start 5.9 6 pitches trad (thanks to Plam for the lead).

We also made it to the top of the Chief via the Squamish Buttress Lite variation (also known as the Butt/Face) recently cleaned by Sonny Trotter and friends (see the story here:http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/07/28/a-long-story-for-the-readers/);. This allows you to bypass the 10c crack bottleneck pitch on the regular Buttress Route. There are two cruxes - a 5.9 thin crack/ flake and an awkward 5.8 half chimney / off width. Danylo and I had done two Apron routes earlier in the trip, so we hiked to the top of the Apron, then climbed Boomstick Crack 5.7 2 pitches (cool feature) to access the forest above Broadway Ledge. We next hiked through the forest to the start of the regular Buttress route, climbed its first 4 pitches, then the 3 pitches of the Butt Lite.

Crux 5.9 section on Butt Lite
Credit: mikegrai


We managed to make our way through the crux pitches and wandered our way up ledges on the final pitch to a glorious day on the summit.
Credit: mikegrai


Near the top, we had been able to watch two young ladies dance their way up Gravity Bong 5.13a on The Prow. Oh, to be young and skillful!
Credit: mikegrai


There are few more pictures here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/28211510@N00/sets/72157634716710441/with/9329943920/

As someone on the forum suggested would happen when I first enquired about Squamish, I upped my trad leading grades on this trip. At home on the Escarpment I consider myself a fairly solid 5.7 trad leader, but I eventually got my nerve up to lead 5.9 pitches, and even onsighted a 5.10a single pitch on gear. I'm not sure that the climbing moves are that much easier at the grade, but it is often easier to get more good placements, and you are more confident that they will hold a fall. For me, that means trad climbing much closer to my sport onsight grade than I would dare on slimestone. Possibly the grades are a little softer in general, but there a few "classics" that are in no way soft. If you have some crack technique, all is good. The slab grades aren't particularly soft, and there are some eye-opening runouts on the moderates. I lead the 5.7 variation of pitch 2 on Banana Peel, and it was wildly runout. If I had come off that, I don't know where I would have ended up!

We were very impressed with the quantity and quality of new area and route development taking place. This is creating "instant classics" such as Skywalker and Rocky Horror, with the result that the climbers are spread out and taking some of the pressure off the old classics such as Diedre. These new areas (such as Area 44, Commonwealth and Valley of the Lost Tribe at Murrin Park, and Lumberland and Second Avenue at Smoke Bluffs) are very well documented both in the guidebook and online http://quickdrawpublications.com/free-topos/, http://projectclimb.com/665091D1506A409CCD29/a/climbing/Area_44.aspx); At the crags, there are trails, benches, signage, even laminated topos! I know there are reasons why this doesn't exist here, but it certainly gives one a taste of how sweet things can be! Some of the route developers are profiled in this Gripped story: http://gripped.com/2011/11/sections/articles/the-diggers/

Life is good in Squamish - with the hot days we developed a pattern of getting up early, climbing to mid-afternoon, heading home for food and a siesta, then climbing in the evening until near dark. The town has all the services you could need in a compact area, and there is excellent craft beer to be had at Howe Sound Brewing. I have a feeling I will be back!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Cool stuff mikegrai!


Thanks for the TR.

One teeny correction tho, the 10c pitch on the buttress is no longer a bottleneck, it actually is rarely climbed since the advent of the buttface, which is nice because it actually keeps traffic moving a little better. Cheers!


Day of The Lord!
Day of The Lord!
Credit: RyanD
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 22, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
Just back from three days in Squ'ish. Didn't take any pictures, but had the good fortune to run into Big Mike up on Shannon Falls Wall on Saturday, and then again at dinner that night.

And speaking of Shannon Falls Wall, y'all should get your asses up to the far right end, and get on Chewbacca. It's the re-scrubbed version of an ancient aid route called Snot. Three really good pitches of immaculately clean granite. I don't know who did the re-scrub, but my hat is off to him/her/them. Great route in a great position.

MH2

climber
Jul 22, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
Good choice. We were preceded on the route by Nina and Kyle and Ryan and probably many others.






Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 22, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
bump, and thanks y'all.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 22, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
Yeah Chewbacas was fun.

So is sunset strip. Lots of short, fun 5.10 pitches, many can be linked.

Charles way up in the wide.
Charles way up in the wide.
Credit: RyanD



So many fun new routes here, it's ridiculous. Hats off to all the climbers who unearth these routes.
MH2

climber
Jul 23, 2013 - 07:13am PT
The route developers work hard. They are also good at reading subtle clues in the rock.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jul 23, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
sticky fingers

didn't that used to be 5.9 and it's 10c now?
MH2

climber
Jul 23, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
It was 5.9 the way Slot Machine is 5.8. Hard moves off the ground are often discounted. Colin fixed that.
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Jul 23, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
Wow what a great scrub on Sticky Fingers. Ivan dragged that big boulder to the base of the route with a come a long to get past the first few blank moves.

A bit of trivia, I named the route Sticky finger after someone stole my fixed scrubbing rope from the route, and for months afterwards I would find sections of it as rap anchours in Squamish.

And finally a long over due confession with a bit of a preamble.

I met Ivan just after the white painter pants era in Squamish and just at the start of the lycra period. I saw him soloing 5.7 cracks in cowboy boots, jeans, and a mackinaw shirt. Being curious about this enigma, I struck up a conversation with the shy giant, he explained pointy cowboy boots worked really well in the cracks. He was definitely not your typical Squamish climber. Back then this 210 LB tough logger sported tats all over his arms , hands and neck, with a bee on his right fist to remind you how that could sting. Back then he wore his baseball cap backwards long before it was hip or popular. Definitely a redneck loner, but I was impressed by his raw talent.

I introduced him to the world of Squamish cracks and slabs. which he mastered dam quickly and during the 5-7 years we climbed together he danced his way up some of the hardest slab climbs in Squamish and together we put up our share of soon to be forgotten first ascents.

So back to Sticky Fingers, after a few weeks of climbing with me, I introduced Ivan to scrubbing and digging out first ascents. I had poked around the base of the Rutabaga and seen a great 5.10 crack line that was guarded by a blank 5.12 slab. Ivan in his innocence saw an obvious solution. take a come-a-long ,drag a two ton boulder to the base as a convenient cheater stone. An obvious solution but still short of getting to the coveted crack which I had already scrubbed. We agreed to meet next Saturday and work out a solution, in retrospect I guess I should have spent a bit more time explaining the ethics of climbing to Ivan.

Next Saturday, a typical dismal drizzling day in Squamish, Ivan was already at the base of the route and as I hiked up, I heard this repeated cha ching, cha ching, of metal on rock. I arrived and to my horror Ivan had chiseled some convenient scoops to get past the blank slab, in his naivety he found the obvious solution! I enlightened him on the ethical transgression he had just committed, raced back to town, bought a can of blackish granite spray paint while he rounded out the obvious chip marks and then we blended them in with a well camouflaged paint job.

The route went at a fine moderate 5.10 minus grade with a cruxy slab start to gain the crack. This probably wasnít the first route to be enhanced at Squamish, but it was definitely Ivanís only and last. We had a quite a few more misadventures over the next few years but also many great times.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 24, 2013 - 05:03am PT
great yarn Rolf. I've never met Ivan - is he still around?

The solution I always used there was to grab a sturdy branch out of the bush for a ladder. Why let some stupid 10 foot ankle breaker slab wreck a great crack climb? There's a few routes like that. Chimp Dip for instance. It dosn't take much ankle damage to destroy a climbing career. Just ask Mark Gandy.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Credit: brownie

Ryan and I linked up Border Line to High Plains Drifter yesterday and had a Totally Rad time.

If the "Chief" happens across this post; any stories, or interesting info concerning the F.A. would be super cool..

what a beaty crack, from the stream of cool air leaking forth from the bowels of the chief, to the wild position on the arete, to the wild burn one feels as they muscle through the last moves to the chains, it is by far some of the best climbing either of us have encountered on the squamish big stone.

kudos to all who paved the way for us weenies..

brownie

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 24, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
GREAT PHOTO, K ! ^^^^^
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jul 24, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
All this action is keeping this armchair athlete thoroughly motivated for some when life settles down a bit.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 24, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
All this action is keeping this armchair athlete thoroughly motivated for some when life settles down a bit.

Best wishes for that Harry.

I was hoping to see you at the festival, but maybe next time...
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