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Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 28, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
You got a problem with Socks, Tami ?

Credit: Monica
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 28, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
When I was in Squamish a couple of weeks ago I ran into John Howe in Starbucks. Hadn't seen him for a while, and we had a nice chat. Which included the subject of staples.

This comment by Glenn on the previous page made me think of it:

Talk to Robin. He (probably) won't bite your head off. He doesn't own the routes he put up, but I think it's polite to ask him before ripping out the staples.

When I asked John about the whole staple thing he just shook his head and said [I'm paraphrasing here] that virtually everyone in the local climbing community had tried to explain to Robin that the staples didn't belong, but that Robin just didn't care.

He probably knows Robin as well as anyone, and I've never heard him say anything mean-spirited or disrespectful about the man. And he wasn't doing that here. Just stating the simple fact that the opinion of the rest of the community was immaterial to Dr. B.

So, Mike, go ahead and talk to him if you want. But you should probably have a Plan B in place for when he doesn't grant permission to pull those staples.

And a couple of caveats to all of the above: First, I know nothing about the safety of the staples, and am not advocating anything. It's been long enough since I was part of the Squamish climbing community that I don't get a vote. And second, through the twenty-some years that I was a part of the Squamish community I knew Robin fairly well. And like JH, I have nothing bad or negative to say about him. But he does march to the beat of his own drum, and has never shown any interest in what others think about that.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jun 28, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
^^Whut David wrote ^^^ Yup yup yup.

Sox ? The nefarious Dr. B and his procurement of sox was the trip I was on. Not sox themselves.

That prez was one for the pussy, eh? :-D
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Jun 28, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
You're just going to have to convince to him to admit that his hardware is not up to snuff

I wouldn't bother going down that route, why not just ask if he minds you swapping some of his new anchors for some expensive ones, I cant imagine he would mind.

If you start out dissing his anchor choice then the conversation is going to go where it has gone before.

Personally I have no problems with staples, they are pretty common in other parts of the world. Whether they belong in Squamish as BK pointed out a few pages back is something else all together.

Thanks for the community service Mike
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jun 28, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
I've never had anything but pleasant conversations with Robin. He certainly goes his own way, which is admirable. Nice guy.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 28, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Barley is iconoclastic in the best way. He gleefully engages any one, every time they thinks they can take him on over his climbing practices. The boy loves the struggle but there's no changing his mind !

There isn't a more polite, yet resolute man climbing in Squamish.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 08:21pm PT

Thanks for the community service Mike

You're welcome! I wish i didn't have to deal with politics first....

I need to go say hi to Robin anyways.

The thing that scares me about staples is the micro fractures between the holes for the u-bolts. And the glue not holding them in the rock if they aren't properly notched.

The Staple or U Bolt.
You may or may not be aware that these were in common use in Germany for many years. The Germans being thorough chaps go around testing bolts at regular intervals and the results led to two decisions. 1) To remove all staples immediatly as none achieved the required test figures. 2) To recommend the removal/changing of all bolt-in bolts after 10 yrs, all new bolt-ins should be sealed against water ingress, either as in the construction industry with a rubber ring, or with a silicon sealant, and to discourage the use of bolt-ins in areas subject to freeze/thaw conditions.
The test results for staples were not published by the DAV as far as I know but we made and tested some. 8mm dia rod with 80mm legs achieved around 6 to 8 kN, When I knurled the legs to improve the bond the rock failed, generally at around 12kN. Examination of the failure showed that drilling two holes so close together seriously weakens the rock, according to friends in the quarry industry the drilling produces micro-fractures and these link up producing an area of shattered rock between the holes. (A similar effect to when you try to fit a expansion plug in a masonary wall near to an old one). Another problem we noticed was that on the bolts with bonding failure only one leg failed, implying that the load is not evenly shared, therefore the bonding for each leg must be capable of withstanding the proof load.

http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm

Not to mention this horrible idea..

Credit: Big Mike

Credit: Big Mike

Credit: Big Mike
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 28, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
Mike- That photo sequence u posted can happen with regular bolt hangers as well if the gates on the quickdraws are opposing.


This sums it up here:


Barley is iconoclastic in the best way. He gleefully engages any one every time they thinks they can take him on over his climbing practices. The boy loves the struggle but there's no changing his mind !

There isn't a more polite, yet resolute man climbing in Squamish.



I like this one too that Luke found somewhere.


Robin Barley.
I find it best, and considerably less frustrating, to see Robin less as a climber or developer of routes and more of a force of nature. You can get upset all you want at the approaching storm, shake your fist at the clouds, even yell at the rain. But the storm -like Barely- couldn't care less what you think and will not be stopped. So like the storm, it's best to just sit back, watch in wild wonder then go out and pick up the pieces after the storm has passed.

Aaron.


So seriously, can anyone think of an individual in North America who has put up anywhere close to the number of pitches as RB has??


On another note. Here's a site u should click on, it's a good buddies. He takes beautiful photos of climbing, snowboarding, surfing, kayaking, etc.












http://philtifo.com/









Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
Very true Ryan. I didn't notice it was pulling the wrong way.. Duh.

Phil's work is awesome. He had some sweet shots hanging in Splitz awhile back, not sure if it's still up or not. Remy was in one!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
Sandra and i got out for some toprope laps on Burgers this evening.


Any one else get some pitches in?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 29, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
Any one else get some pitches in?

We went hunting for a new cliff, but came back empty-handed. So not only no pitches -- no rock.
Adrian MacNair

Boulder climber
Vancouver
Jun 29, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
Yo kids, I'm moving and I need to get rid of some junk. That includes these old climbing ropes. WYSIWYG: two 13-year-old 10.5mm 50m dynamics mostly used in the gym, a little outside. I wouldn't climb on them anymore but you could use them for hauling or rigging or something else, like a rap line backup.

Anyone who wants them for free gimme a call, I'm in Vancouver. 778-737-7065

Credit: Adrian MacNair
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Hanging at the apron with Relic
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jun 30, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
You're going to bake up there this afternoon!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jun 30, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
^^What GW said ^^^^ but, for my part, what a great shot. I can smell the trees and the warmth of the stone.

Think of me, eh? I"ll spend this glorious afternoon..........backstage in a theatre. Closing day, yey!!! Nothing to do for Canada Day tomorrow but pick raspberries, paint and drink cider !!! :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
Ya we would've!


Relic ropegunned me up rambles this morning. It was pretty fun, after we got started. Unfortunately a couple beat us to it and decided that they had to do it in four pitches which took forever... Lol

While i waited i posted some pics at the bottom.

Derek Woolgar photo

Me on the traverse

Derek Woolgar photo

Pano from the second belay


Selfie at the top of Rambles! FPFA (First paraplegic free ascent)


Top pano


This was as far as i wanted to go today, we rapped off and went for lunch at Zepyhr.

Thanks for the ride Relic!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 30, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
Nice one boys! Good to see some tiny cars below u Mike!

I tried to go bouldering today, even had some aspirations until i saw these guys havin a weenie roast on a portaledge on Humpty Dumpty so I yelled at them for awhile from psyche ledge which was so exhausting from the heat that I just ended up sleeping on my crashpad for a bit until I had to go to work. Looks like early starts or night climbing for the next while.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 30, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Bicycle picture alert !

Greg F. enjoying the view of Howe Sound, Georgia Strait and the Strait of Juan de Fuca from the picnic table on the BLT today:

Credit: Jim Brennan
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Jun 30, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
Now we're talking.
31 in squish today but still primo riding in the damp forest
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jun 30, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
Jim ? That's Georgia Strait, not Strait of JdF. Passage Island below and Cowen Pt on Bowen Island on the right of that. Or I'm a crack baby :-)

Melting here in Kits :-)
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