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Messages 5821 - 5840 of total 7903 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2013 - 01:38am PT
Somewhere, somehow there is someone with an oversensitive ethical dilemma that just had a moment(at least) of anguish. I'm not sure why but I am sure it deserves a chuckle. Damn funny.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 01:56am PT
The rock will be fine.. Lol. "No bolts next to good gear" right? Lol
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2013 - 02:01am PT
Mike, I inherently trust you. The Kid, I'm not to sure aboat. ;^)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 02:14am PT
He's good. He likes good pro too. Right Luke?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 27, 2013 - 03:08am PT
We gotta go put a bolt ladder in at chek & write "10b" at the base in chalk before the long weekend, then we can go back Tuesday & collect all the quickdraws.

Seriously tho, that drill looks sweet, & since my dog walking rate is only $170 per walk & $42.50 per feeding I should have a good 5 days on the tab after this weekend so long as Yula doesn't take a poo, those are $100 a piece.

Edit- Wayno, I'm the one u gotta worry "aboat" :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 03:51am PT
Lol! ;)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
I was planning to kill some staples

Dave was telling me about those things. Just how many of those things did he put in? Sounds like a worthy project, anyway.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
Tons. I gotta find some candidates and talk to Robin to see if he's cool with it.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 27, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Are we back on staples again??!

I am pretty sure RB doesn't like anyone chopping his Jingus gear so I wouldn't even ask Mike. Just do it like everyone else does. What r u gonna say to him that he won't be insulted by? This guy has possibly bolted more pitches than anyone in North America so I don't think he is interested in any negative feedback on his methods at this point, although he is a really nice dude to chat with, he is convinced that he is in the right with his tactics. Another thing to remember is that 80% of RB staple routes are zero star ledgy slabs or squeeze jobs between cracks, do u want to waste ur $$$ on replacing hardware on routes that will probably get eaten by moss within the next year or 2 & will never be climbed again??

I think the staple count is pretty low, I haven't seen them for awhile except a few in the bluffs.

A better proj may be, as u said, changing some of his garbage rap stations, which are everywhere. The entire Squaw/Klootch buttress is covered in em as well as some apron routes & the malamute.

Edit- I'd be happy to help with replacements, just let me know.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
That's kinda what i figured Ryan, but i had a couple of people tell me i should talk to him.. Anchor replacements are definitely high on the list.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Jun 27, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
You should make an attempt to ask or mention the routes you would like to update, thats the respectful thing to do.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jun 27, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
I'd say speak to the folks involved with the routes in question. Opening that can of worms here on a forum is likely to cause epics.

I was contacted once about putting bolts in an old route I'd been involved in & I appreciated it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Interesting ethical question here. I was always under the impression that swapping out worn anchors or replacing bolts for bolts was fair game.

Didn't Jeremy ask you about adding a new bolt on the Milk Run traverse pitch Tami?

Obviously i'm not proposing anything nefarious here, just curious is all.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Talk to Robin. He (probably) won't bite your head off. He doesn't own the routes he put up, but I think it's polite to ask him before ripping out the staples.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jun 27, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
Yes, Mike, that's what I'm referring to. Unsure if any other of "my" routes ( e.g. ones I was involved in ) have been retrobolted. I put in a few bad bolts myself :-) but hopefully those routes have returned to oblivion.

I agree with Glenn above. Talk to Robin. It's the right thing to do.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jun 27, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
Make sure you stand real close to him to emphasize your height and regrow that beard for god's sake!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 27, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
This is gonna be good !
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
Oh jeeze.. Why do i feel like i'm opening pandora's box... Lol
MoonGoon

climber
canadistan
Jun 27, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
Huzzah! Sorry folks, I'm going to hijack this thread momentarily out of desperation. I lost my camera in skaha 2 weeks ago and well, there's no skaha thread so here I am. Lost blue panasonic DMC-TS2 Tough camera. Think it was left at Great White june 14th but not 100%. If anyone peeking at this thread is in Skaha and can look at the parking lot message board to see if anyone picked it up I would be endlessly grateful. Post up or PM.

The reward for it's return will be me finally posting some syck Squamish climbing shots to this thread.

Thank you all and Happy climbing

-e

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 27, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Haha ok here we go, staples round 7.

Good points here, u guys & gal r right that talking to the FAist is the "usual" protocol & the approach I would "usually" take if I was inspired to re-fit someone else's route. I hope my post wasn't misinterpreted as disrespect towards RB as he is definitely an example of determination, passion, & hard work in the climbing community. Just pointing out that he is also not your "usual" FAist. I've chatted with him a few times & he's pretty sure that his routes are good the way they are from what I can tell. I can't see a way that he would voluntarily agree to having his routes or hardware changed or altered & not be pissed or disrespected that someone would suggest such a thing to someone who has been doing it for so long. It's like walking up to Luongo & telling him if he used an Easton blocker he wouldn't let in so many goals.

This is what many locals tried to do a few yrs back when the staples appeared, he was approached in a civil, rational way & he wouldnt have any of it, subsequently all the staples were chopped anyways, most weren't replaced & the climbing community of squamish decided that they were not acceptable or safe or up to a local hardware standard that was trying to be established.I think there's even a route at Murrin called "staples away".

Since then theres a number of ppl still, including local guides who haven't quit the crusade against the staples & will chop em on sight knowing damn well who put them in & not think twice- the fact that your looking at replacing them Mike is probably offering more of a service to him & his staple routes than many anti staplers out there would but I'm not so sure he will see it that way.

Myself, i could care less & just stay the hell away from staples cuz they scratch up the anodization on my fancy wire gates & they usually are placed on ledgy featureless 10c slabs that offer less than interesting climbing. He seems to use real bolts on the more quality pitches, maybe for that reason. Im sure theres a few lurking on here who know someone or maybe themselves have had a hand in upgrading some of his anchors or routes without his knowledge in this hear no evil see no evil manner.

He also told me that he only flies one particular airline because they give u free socks & they are the only socks that fit under his climbing shoes properly & that he tries to grab as many pairs as possible while in the air to stock up & has been doing so for 30 yrs! Lol.

All that yakkity yak said I withdrawal my chop away comment, shoulda thought that thru a bit more before supertoproping it, but I am really interested in hearing how this transpires, Big Mike is a kind soul so maybe he can succeed where others have not. You're just going to have to convince to him to admit that his hardware is not up to snuff & that ur the guy who should replace it. Good luck, hope u got a plan B :-)

I do think that nobody should need permission though to replace janky & potentially dangerous hardware on climbs used by the general public in hi traffic areas like those around here & that FAist's should put up routes with the local standard in mind.



Too bad RB doesn't post up on here it would be awesome to have him here to tell his side of the staple story.


End rant. I'm gunna go get stoned & confine myself to 2 sentence posts. In case u wasted ur time reading this one here's a picture as ur reward:-)

Gotta be some staples up there somewhere.
Gotta be some staples up there somewhere.
Credit: RyanD
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