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Messages 5821 - 5840 of total 7687 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jun 26, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Damn, it's been a while...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
Speaking of which Jim, when are we going climbing??
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 12:47am PT
I just went to Kris's and grabbed my new toys!
New toys
New toys
Credit: Big Mike
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 27, 2013 - 12:51am PT
What the hell u gonna do with those Mike?!?! Lets go put up some sport routes! Apparently someone wAsnt paying attention & sold Luke a badass drill, o jeez!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 01:01am PT
I heard that rumor! I was planning to kill some staples but an fa sounds fun too! ;) I heard Henkle has a new zone going?

I also want to kill some of those Barley two link chain anchors.. I hate those things.. Lol!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jun 27, 2013 - 01:38am PT
The bulldog
The bulldog
Credit: thekidcormier

Did some one say bolt ladder to no where?

I get 256 bat holes per battery out of this sucker. That there monolith is gonna look like Swiss cheese in no time.

I'm also renting it for $85/day+deposit... If anyone's interested.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2013 - 01:38am PT
Somewhere, somehow there is someone with an oversensitive ethical dilemma that just had a moment(at least) of anguish. I'm not sure why but I am sure it deserves a chuckle. Damn funny.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 01:56am PT
The rock will be fine.. Lol. "No bolts next to good gear" right? Lol
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2013 - 02:01am PT
Mike, I inherently trust you. The Kid, I'm not to sure aboat. ;^)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 02:14am PT
He's good. He likes good pro too. Right Luke?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 27, 2013 - 03:08am PT
We gotta go put a bolt ladder in at chek & write "10b" at the base in chalk before the long weekend, then we can go back Tuesday & collect all the quickdraws.

Seriously tho, that drill looks sweet, & since my dog walking rate is only $170 per walk & $42.50 per feeding I should have a good 5 days on the tab after this weekend so long as Yula doesn't take a poo, those are $100 a piece.

Edit- Wayno, I'm the one u gotta worry "aboat" :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 03:51am PT
Lol! ;)
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
I was planning to kill some staples

Dave was telling me about those things. Just how many of those things did he put in? Sounds like a worthy project, anyway.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
Tons. I gotta find some candidates and talk to Robin to see if he's cool with it.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 27, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Are we back on staples again??!

I am pretty sure RB doesn't like anyone chopping his Jingus gear so I wouldn't even ask Mike. Just do it like everyone else does. What r u gonna say to him that he won't be insulted by? This guy has possibly bolted more pitches than anyone in North America so I don't think he is interested in any negative feedback on his methods at this point, although he is a really nice dude to chat with, he is convinced that he is in the right with his tactics. Another thing to remember is that 80% of RB staple routes are zero star ledgy slabs or squeeze jobs between cracks, do u want to waste ur $$$ on replacing hardware on routes that will probably get eaten by moss within the next year or 2 & will never be climbed again??

I think the staple count is pretty low, I haven't seen them for awhile except a few in the bluffs.

A better proj may be, as u said, changing some of his garbage rap stations, which are everywhere. The entire Squaw/Klootch buttress is covered in em as well as some apron routes & the malamute.

Edit- I'd be happy to help with replacements, just let me know.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
That's kinda what i figured Ryan, but i had a couple of people tell me i should talk to him.. Anchor replacements are definitely high on the list.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Jun 27, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
You should make an attempt to ask or mention the routes you would like to update, thats the respectful thing to do.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jun 27, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
I'd say speak to the folks involved with the routes in question. Opening that can of worms here on a forum is likely to cause epics.

I was contacted once about putting bolts in an old route I'd been involved in & I appreciated it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Interesting ethical question here. I was always under the impression that swapping out worn anchors or replacing bolts for bolts was fair game.

Didn't Jeremy ask you about adding a new bolt on the Milk Run traverse pitch Tami?

Obviously i'm not proposing anything nefarious here, just curious is all.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Talk to Robin. He (probably) won't bite your head off. He doesn't own the routes he put up, but I think it's polite to ask him before ripping out the staples.
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