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Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
May 18, 2013 - 01:11am PT
Ms. Chief, Mighty Kakwa and I finally busted out for a long overdue road trip to the City of Rocks.
First days back on the rock this year and having a great adventure.
Camping is stellar, 10a face is terrifying and 5.9 cracks are burly.
Evicted for the weekend, raining anyways.
Drove north today, stopped and caught a few trout (put em right back) and carried on through Ketchum to Stanley in the heart of the Sawtooths.
Wide open high country, pronghorn antelope and not many people, beautiful.
Back to the City Sunday for another week of climbing.
Should be fit for Diedre and the Buttress by the time we get back.
The older I get, the better I was.

Cheers,

PB
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 18, 2013 - 01:26am PT
Sounds like a great trip, Perry. Where did you wet your line? There are lots of good rivers in Idaho. And a few good lakes. All those forks of the forks of the Salmon provide quite a variety of conditions that can mostly be had in a day with the right vehicle.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
May 18, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
Greetings from Curry Village y'all.

We got a solid crew of Squamalians down here in the valley and we're getting after it.

Kieran and I took the Amtrak down from Seattle. It was cheap, comfortable and casual.

As soon as we got here went straight to the base of the leaning tower to get on Daryl Hattens "wet denim daydream" which was a spectacular line in a great position.

After we got of the tower we spent a few days casually getting our stuff the the base of El Cap during the days and spending the nights in camp 5.

On Monday after a well executed pre haul to heart ledge we took the afternoon off the swim In the river and relax before racking up for the Freeblast around 5pm. Jus after finishing a smoke offering we heard a familiar voice complaining about sore feet, and it turned out to be Marc-Andre just getting off a lap of the Freeblast after arriving in the valley for his first time only hours earlier.

Marc is rolling with Chris Geisler, one of the most psyched dudes I've ever met. While we were on Salathe they gave Muir wall a ground up free attempt from the heart ledges and got shut down at pitch 17 on some burly 5.13.

After a "rest day" rappelling their kit off the Muir they got on the west face of the leaning tower, and ended up coming down for rest after nearly unlocking the crux pitch but being to pumped to continue.

Rumour has it Marc has Onsighted all of the 10 or so 5.12 pitches he has be on so far.
Proud.

So Perry's quote about not being able to throw a dead cat in the valley without hitting a wide crack proved to be true up on Salathe; holy crap they jus kept coming and a lack of practise left us exhausted and bloody after each one.
We topped out Thursday around supper time after 3 great days of climbing and : amazing bivy ledges. We bivied again at the top and finished the rest of our beer and snacks and got down yesterday morning.

So that's what's going on Down here. Unfortunately my pictures always turn sideways when I post from my phone to the taco, so no pictures unless you want to grab them off Facebook.

Oh yeah I gotta shout out Kieran for being such a great partner, he killed up there, from efficient leading and hauling to organized belays on his first grade V and VI. Great job buddy!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 18, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
Do the Steck - Salathe !
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 18, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Nice work, boys. Hammer-less on Wet Denim?

After you do Steck-Salathe, go up on South Central on the Column. There is a really nice wide pitch on that one.
Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
May 18, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
Sick
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
May 18, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Do the Rostrum boys. Yer ready to send.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 18, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Thanks for the report Luke, glad to hear you guys are getting some. Keep after it & love the wide, eventually it's gonna love u back:-)
browniephoto

climber
bc
May 18, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
shit; we're out of lettuce and Lucy is nowhere to be found, team substance abuse is in trouble.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
Ya ya!! Do the rostrum!! You'll crush it and love it!!

Luke asked me to put up these pictures.

A bottle a wall.....

Luke Cormier photo


Kieran Chillin in the alcove. Luke's hammock was conveniently located for flatulence abuse...



Kieran keeps a vigilant belay on El Cap Spire.



Coolest place to smoke a cig ever Kieran?



Or was it this one??


More soon..

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
May 18, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
sick!

do the rostrum day before you leave - the perfect trip!

Hey Ryan, how was the tower tour?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
May 18, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
.......sure that's a cigarette, old man? :-D


Another vote fer doin' the RawStrom :-D !!!


Happy Birthday to Peter Croft.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 10:15am PT
Now now Tami, I'm sure he just ran out of smokes and just had to break out the drum :)

Bruce I still have your stuff. I sent ya pm about it awhile ago.

I Couldn't sleep very well last night, so I decided to see what I could pull out of the photos Luke sent me...

Starting Salathe wall



I'm guessing this is night one based on how much whiskey is in the bottle...



Kieran freeing pitch 12


Hollow flake p13


Kieran on another Chimney, pitch 14


looks like a hoot boys!
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
May 19, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
LIKE!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 19, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Any pics of Wet Denim, Mike?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
Ya, they had some on facebook.. Lemme see what i can do
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Jsmith was trying to post this..


Photo by Mike Chapman

Ps Too bad you deleted your post.

Quoted from here

Spied this line while working the Gunslinger with Ben Harnden last spring, gave it a light brushing and started attempts.

I put a lot of time in to this last year, falling at the crux many times. Almost sent it a couple times, but my climbing season was shut down for the rest of the year when I fell at the wrong spot breaking bones in my hand.

This year I changed my tactics and spent 6 weeks specifically training for the route. On the first lead go this year I fell early in the crux and ripped the gear, taking a unexpected big fall. Had a few moments of second guessing but decided to give it another go just for sh*t's and giggles, and found myself topping out.

The crux is after the top of the 5.12 corner shared with The Gunslinger. Tiny crimps and huge moves with glassy or no feet. I figure about V11 to the next rest and pro, followed by a bit of a heartbreaker finish. It's safe(ish) to fall early in the crux but falling after is a really bad idea.

Thanks to all whom I wrangled into belaying me.

Here's some rough footage I threw together from last years efforts.
http://youtu.be/B5mlA3YuMtY
J.



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
The Wet Denim series.

Hotlinked directly from Facebook ;)

Leaning Tower






Kieran gunning for the summit on his first Grade V route!



Luke gives an offering to the smoke gods on top.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
Jsmith that video is so sick. Nice effort. Holy whipper! I hope your hand healed well.

City of Rocks sounds fun Perry! I gotta get down there one of these days.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 19, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Well, at least a pair of my pants made it up el cap. Good to see u puttin some miles on those things Kieran.

Bruce, had a great trip. Sadly, weather aversion tactics needed to be applied so got burned on most of the tower plans. Still managed to climb 9 days straight on the sandstone tho. Boulder, gear, sport, multipitch. Can't wait to go back.


Edit- holy sh#t Jeremy, proud send dude! Ur really strong in the brain this season it seems. Was this before that route on cacademon(what was the name?)? Killer photo too.
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