Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 5681 - 5700 of total 7222 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 27, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
As far as I recall R rated pitch of White Lightning has no bolts and starts half way across the traverse into the main diedre corner. You can get a number two in the flake at your feet before you go for it to the station 30m or so above. The Crux pitch which comes after the R(unout) pitch was reasonably well protected with 2 or 3 bolts at the stances throughout the hard part.

...70foot slab fall... YIKES!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 27, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
70 feet ? Oy, vey.


White Lightning, as done in "the goodol days" had 4 pitches. The 4th final one had zero protection and so was rarely done.

The first pitch had one "chicken" bolt and was fairly run out but not tht scary. It was rated 5.8 in Smaill's guide. It ended at a station below the overlap.

The second pitch went up and over and followed the natural line of holds past three bolts or so to a small tree belay.

The crux pitch was the third pitch with the hard move above the final bolt. I one time took about a 20+ foot fall on it. That pitch ended in the trees.

White Lightning was a popular route in the late 70's & early 80's even before "sticky rubber". The FA was done in Robbins boots.

Peter Croft led a direct pitch on that second pitch - "Wildebeest" ( 5.10d) that was quite poorly protected. I belayed that day & was quite nervous about him completing the pitch. I don't have any notations in my old guidebook other than the name of the route & "two pitches on the slabs between White Lightning & Sickle ; unprotected and hard"

Note: Edited after I thought about it some & realized I had it wrong the first time I wrote.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
Longing to be here again....
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 28, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
4tomic,

I think you had a go with Stirling Moss. It's a route not in any guide but all Squamish slab climbers have had an experience.
browniephoto

climber
bc
Apr 28, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
Credit: browniephoto

got on some gritty friction at seal cove today..


Credit: browniephoto

and then wandered down the tracks to the quartz pillar just as the rain started.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 29, 2013 - 12:05am PT
Brownies on fire here, u guys have a look at silver surfer? Anybody done that one? Looks awesome down there.



Edit-

Credit: RyanD
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Apr 29, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
I was nervous watching Robert way above the bolt on this climb, Monday.

What do you need to protect that Andy, that is if you dont have balls as big as the Roberto Unleashed?
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 1, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
WTF? I found this thread on page six or something. Late hibernation or what? Hockey? You hosers can't let my favorite thread just fade that way.

Speaking of hosers, can one of you put ole Wayno up for a night, this Monday? Preferably in Van. near GF Strong? I'm coming up to visit Big Mike.
Or could someone recommend a hotel near GF Strong? Send me a PM.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
May 1, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
If you walk in strapped to a spine board GF Strong will put you up. Especially if you bring beer.


Thats just how our socialized health care works up here.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2013 - 08:50am PT
Wayno- I know.. If i don't have much to contribute here, this thread hides itself fast.

Post up people!!

Here's an old one of me at the anchors on mushroom
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
Smoke bluffs live feed!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 3, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
^^^^

Nice.

A couple of Squamish's finest.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
Went up to the top of Penny Lane tonight after a fabulous BBQ provided by the Cormier's.

It's pretty nice to have the smoke bluffs in your backyard!










Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 4, 2013 - 12:15am PT
BMF, Monday at GFS. Share light with the big one and I and U.
gf

climber
May 4, 2013 - 07:32am PT
Silver Surfer rules! Today would be a great day to get on it -sunny but not too hot.
Wayno -let us know if u r coming up and i will take you to kloochman for a traverse monday pm
gf
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
May 4, 2013 - 09:52am PT
Mike got me a room at GFS. I will be there Monday and Tuesday.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
May 4, 2013 - 11:18am PT
Does anyone know the status of the cleaning job under way in the Milenium Falcon / Gauntlet area?

Someone has been putting some serious effort in there and its looking promising, but the season is now well under way. There is currently a "do not enter under pain of death" sign at the base.
supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
May 4, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
^^ haha! it's impossible to take a photo in squamish without some powerlines :D
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
^^ yup... I stopped erasing them because, they are a part of squish too..
goldeneye

Social climber
May 4, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
speaking of Victor, here's a vid from awhile ago with him and few others.



Messages 5681 - 5700 of total 7222 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews