Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 5681 - 5700 of total 9011 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 9, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
A nice reclean at the Gobsmack, before the Psyche festivities. Great party guys. Thanks so much for feeding the starving kids. The tacos were killer. Thanks for the mag Tami!

The Lurker on Sacrificial Lamb
The Lurker on Sacrificial Lamb
Credit: Relic
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Thanks so much for feeding the starving kids.


Big Grin!!!!!

HAhahahahah!!!!

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
So how did Kyle and Nathan do on Freeway on Sunday? Any pics?

I talked to Yerian today and told him about the party and he gives his deepest regards to all his Squamish friends. He sounded like he is in bad need of a Squamish fix.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 10, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
Kyle and I had a great, albeit lengthy time on Freeway.
We got a pretty early start, but not early enough to be the first party on route. Luckily, the two guys in front informed us that this would be the absolute peak of their leading limit and offered us to go first, as they might be slow. If they happen to read this - much appreciated!

I led the first pitch. It was hard. For anyone whose only .11a climbs are the two on the Grand and any in the Bluffs, this thing is a brutally rude warm up. Two definite crux sections, each protected by a bolt. I fell once at each one. Still the best I've done on it (third time climbing that pitch).
I linked it with Daylight Crack to get some space between us and the other guys. Three cams for that second half.

Kyle sent the traverse, thought it was soft for .10b. I thought it was harder than the one on Ultimate Everything. I started the dihedral, couldn't commit to the crux until I took a hang and got a nut in. Belayed on gear from the partway ledge due to rope drag. Kyle finished the rest of the pitch, would have got the OS but he was too short to reach a crucial lock and the left leg is in a strenuous position. I managed to follow clean on TR, which I was stoked on, as my first time up I botched the sequence horribly and hung the whole way up.
Kyle then took us up to the Truck Stop, very gracefully onsighting the 50 meter .11a corner pitch. I also got it clean with much effort.

After a rest, I went to go through the roof, but was reaching with the wrong hand and fell a couple times. French Freed a bunch of it just due to impatience, as I had to hitch hike back to the city once we were down and didn't want to be too late. I got better beta now though so should be okay for next time. Kyle got it clean with one fall at the start.

Now was where it got messy. Kyle started around the Autobahn traverse, but instead of going up once around the corner, he went directly across to a different anchor. Communication was pretty much non existent. I just waited until he had taken me tight and gave a couple tugs on the rope before I started. I hadn't had enough to drink and my arms were seizing up in a violent way. I had to hang on the first piece of gear and spend about 15 minutes shaking out. Once I made it around the corner, I went from following to leading and finished up the pitch at the proper anchor.

It was about 430 at this point. Kyle's confidence was shaken due to the slight epic he had just had, and I was worried that my arms would lock up in the middle of a hard pitch. Neither of us wanted to climb another .11. I led up the .10c without cramping, but then instead of going up the .11a corner, we detoured over to the right to the chimney pitch on Milk Road.
I led that, and could barely pull up our tagline without my upper body seizing. I have never experienced anything like that, and it was extremely frustrating. Kyle then went back over to the final pitch on Freeway and finished it up clean (.10d). I pulled on the bolts.

Nina was awesome, meeting us partway up the trail with water. When we got down, I had to run back up to the base and grab my shirt which I had jettisoned from the first pitch. Kyle gave me a ride to the intersection at Shannon Falls, where I managed to get a ride home.

I can't wait to get back on it. I was so beat I almost slept through my alarm Monday morning and could barely move at work. Definitely bringing more water next time.


Also - had an excellent time at the Psych Ledge party. Had some great chats with Tami, met a couple people for the first time (Peder Ourom - legend! and Harry) which was awesome.
Wish it was more than a once a year event.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 12, 2013 - 01:50am PT
We got back to Seattle last night after spending a few extra days in Squamish. Too bad for me that I had to work for about half the time. But Mari got out for a good day with Mike and Sandra. She brought them back for a visit at the end of the day, so I at least got a bit of second-hand climbing -- and to spend some time with a pair of really nice people.

I finally finished work at about 1:00 pm on Sunday and we decided to use the afternoon for a combination of exercise, exploration, and climbing. Hiked to a recently discovered crag called The Centurion, somewhere up in the back end of nowhere behind the Conroy Creek road. There's one route so far -- six pitches of bolts to 10b.

First pitch looks like this:
First pitch of whatever it's called on The Centurion.
First pitch of whatever it's called on The Centurion.
Credit: Ghost

View from the belay at the top of that pitch
Looking NW from The Centurion
Looking NW from The Centurion
Credit: Ghost

It was late enough that we only climbed one more pitch, a mostly chossy affair which opened the door to what looked like some very nice rock above.

A pretty place, with great views, but if you decide to go there, take your 4X4 and drive all the way to the end of the road. The trail from there is quite pleasant, but hiking the road is tedious and time-consuming.

Anyway, thanks to all who showed up at the Psyche Ledge affair - and particularly to JB, Wayno, and Nina who put the work in. It was a treat to see old friends, and to meet some ST posters (and lurkers) for the first time.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 12, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Nice pics Bruce, good to see Kevin is still in the thick of it. I went up there once with Sig Isaac back in the last century and though it was great other than the bushwhack. That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 12, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
That route looks really clean, did the Squamish cleaning brigade go up there or is it an anomy that it stays clean naturally?

When Dick Mitten and Corina Acheson and I made the first forays up that wall we found a fairly clean line. We bushwhacked in, climbed (I think) three or four pitches, maybe up to moderate 5.10, and went home. Never went back (there were endless new projects back then).

I'm sure that some of the cracks and corners on the routes up there now had to be grubbed out, but if a 30-year-old memory means anything, I think it was at least a little bit less bushy than the Chief.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 12, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
I'm too lazy to dig up the Chehalis/Chilliwack peaks thread right now but it's prime conditions on Slesse NE butt right now...

11! people on the route yesterday (2 bivied on the ledge and 9 in-a-dayers) and some more up there today.

We made it from the cars to the start of Crossover walkoff yesterday, bivied and finished the walk out today.

North Rib access across the glacier seems impassible right now.

Mind blowing to think that Micro Marc soloed this and the north rib both in a single day in July.

A judicious choice of the Beckey Ramps rewarded us with pole position ...
A judicious choice of the Beckey Ramps rewarded us with pole position on the upper buttress - touch and go as to place in line after 9 people arrived at the bypass ledges at the same time in the morning
Credit: Oplopanax

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 12, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
Is that a snowpatch on the bivy ledge?

nope, bivi ledge is bone dry, it's the last bit of sun on route on the day circa 3 pm
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 15, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Day of The Lord!
Day of The Lord!
Credit: RyanD

Bump for a beautiful day in Squamish, get some while there's still some to get!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 15, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
It was in Sept 29 years ago I think that PC & I did the Slesse buttress in a looooooooooooong ( 16 hrs ) day car2car. We fourth-classed a lot of the route & had a minor epic crossing Slesse Ck on the W side after deciding against the Crossover Pk descent.

Coolio that so many folks are gettin' atter !
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 18, 2013 - 01:54am PT
Hello, hello.

Calling Squish......

Anyone awake?

Everyone still hung over?
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Sep 18, 2013 - 04:22am PT
The Grand Wall
The Grand Wall
Credit: Will Stanhope

From a stellar day last Wednesday on the Grand Wall with Brad Ward, and Will Stanhope (taking the shot from above).
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 18, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Nice work Wayne.
By the way, that cedar is getting huge!
Back in 76 it was barely a shrub.
Wonder if it'll eventually pry the Pillar off?
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 18, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Well I'm pretty sure Jim Brennan is itching to get up there with a saw and prevent that from happening.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 18, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
I imagine future climbers of the 2100s will fondly grapple their way up the prosthetically molded replacement Pillar with their gecko suits on and feel very old school indeed
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
Wayno- It was an Honour sir. Gear is gear. Once you know how it functions, it's all the same. Nice work by the way! Excellent off the couch climbing!

Hi Hamie! Nice to hear from ya! What's new?

I had lots of fun at the Psyche Ledge party. Many great conversations were had that night, the food was great and the set up was spot on! The many puzzled looks of the pad people walking around us was quite amusing.

Lots of great company and good times were had. Special thanks to Wayno for the amazing Carne Asada and Jim Brennan for bringing his "Q", plus running the whole darn show from beginning to end! Thanks also to Nina for her lovely pulled pork and Kyle for bringing his portable table!

Thanks also to everyone for attending and making it such a great time! What a great legacy to revive Perry! I think you have a hit!

I've been crazy busy lately so I haven't had a chance to get to my pics, but i have a couple from cragging on Saturday with Sandra Mari and Wayno.

Mari wanted to check out Cabin Boys Office, so we strolled up there

Mari on Ziggity Zags 10a

Wayno on belay.


Sandra got her redpoint on Laughing Crack, and then Nina joined us and we changed venues to High Cliff.

Nina on 20 Minute Workout 10b


She got the redpoint.

We did a couple more routes, and then joined Dave and Mari for a tasty beverage. Thanks for that guys! Thanks for the book Dave! It will be perfect reading material for Yosemite!

Nice work on the Grand Wayne! I can't wait to get back up there! Next spring. For sure.

That tree better not pry the Pillar off before i get to redpoint it! I'll be pissed!! ;)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 19, 2013 - 01:54am PT
The valiant and lovely cedar over from the base of the Split Pillar should be left alone, and indeed cherished. It has succeeded, in a harsh environment, and is little threat to the Pillar - despite the beliefs of some. It's well to the side of the base of the Pillar, and when it eventually falls, it seems unlikely to cause problems. Even if it did, so what?

It may be only the latest of a succession of shrubs there, taking root, slowly growing, and eventually being destroyed by ice or rock fall, accumulation of snow and ice on the branches, or simply getting too big. That's the life of the Chief, which is bigger than any of us.

The Pillar itself, and the flake systems above it, are in any case temporary in geological and perhaps even human terms. The Pillar is detached, except at the top, with its base sitting in a sort of niche. It expands, as do most of the nearby connected flake cracks. Undoubtedly elastic release, earthquakes, frost heaving, and heat expansion/contraction are real threats to it. A small tree some metres to the side, in a separate crack, pales in comparison to these.

The Pillar will eventually fall - get over it! It's not the only classic hand crack in Squamish. Don't the already over-zealous logger/climbers have something better to do, or do they want to go out in a blaze of ignominy? BC Parks seems unlikely to condone any human-caused damage to that tree, and you could hardly blame them. Cheap vandalism.

In my view, it would be an act of egotistical vandalism to damage let alone remove that tree.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 19, 2013 - 02:25am PT
While I think/hope most of those considering sawing that cedar are, in fact, joking......I hafta say I side with Anders on thissun.

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 19, 2013 - 02:49am PT
Squamish will be the scene of my comeback, if there is such a thing. There is something really cool about climbing there that I can't find the words to express. Actually I can, but I don't want to piss anyone off.;)

How did Luke's and Aislinn's wedding go? Any pics? Congratulations you two.
Messages 5681 - 5700 of total 9011 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews