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Messages 5601 - 5620 of total 8209 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
Grinnn........ Isn't it Mad Englishman and Dog ? There's a story there & it's pretty funny.

I spoze I see it a lot at Squamish - renaming old routes that is.

Was kinda going to bat on behalf of HM who told me he hates climbers doing that. Said it takes away from the original FA.

When ME&Dog was done it was expressly done to piss off a very specific person.

And "The Shadow" is but one pitch on a multi-pitch wall so I understand that one. ( I wasn't on that one btw )

Mike can you tell kidcormier I have a copy of #43 with his name on it. We need to get it to him tho' :-D
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Tami YOu old goose you!

What about routes that have a free name and an Aid name such as 'Strange Brew' for example, an easier finish to cannabis wall that deviates around the aid crux of Sutton and Burtons 'BreakfastRun'. When Climbed free it is know as 'Midnight Run'.

I think in this case it was givin both names by Andrew Boyd(?), not change by someone else.

it would seem pretty arrogant to have the "I freed it I deserve to change the name" attitude.

But dubbing it with a free name kinda makes its more clear what style you climbed it or aspire to climb it.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Honk ! Honk !

Using the two-name system seems like a good idea to me esp if the "new" name isn't too different than the original one. Breakfast Run / Midnight Run seems like a good qualifier.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
feel free to disagree with me but don't call me names.

Bird-doo head! Toilet Face!!!

And for what it's worth, a climber who frees a formerly aided line and wants to change the name has pretty much zero chance to do so unless the guidebook writer agrees. There's a very strong old-boy-network thing involved here.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
Bring it to the party this weekend Tami! ;)

Isn't the renaming thing, a Yosemite free route tradition as well?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
SO there IS a par-tay this weekend ?

I don't recall there being a strong ethic on name changing in Yos. When a big wall went free ( e.g. Astroman or The Crucifix ) the names were not so much changed but added ; those routes were known by their aspect of the feature they're found on.

Astroman was "East Face Washington Column"

Lynn Hill didn't change the name of The Nose.

Party Edit : kk, thanks.




Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Yup. Perry confirmed for Saturday night.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
Mad Englishman and Dog story's old news...

We want the dirt behind 'Mad Nerd and Poodle'

Credit: thekidcormier
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
LUKE! You'll get yer mag at Perrys whether or not I'm there. :-D


I don't know Mad Nerd & Poodle. When, where & , more to the point , who?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 3, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Fight Club is just one pitch of Mayday though (the last), although going by the topo in the Culbert guide it's actually more like two original pitches. Also Mayday extended an earlier one pitch climb called Compression Crack. So where to draw the line? Should the Jardine Traverse just be called "The Nose pitch 12" or whatever?

Should we still be calling Beers are Not Enough "Petrifying Wall" ?

What's up with this gondola-led rebranding of White Rock as Ultraviolet Cliff?

What about retroactive renaming of one's own routes?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 3, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
I agree with it particularly with regards to FFAs. While some are redpointed on sight, others are projects. So are there degrees to FFAs ? Yes I think there are. So now when buddy#1 does the worked-over-time version of the FFA and renames the route, does buddy#2 come along, redpoint it and change the name too because it's now an arguably different ascent?



Tami,

This is interesting. What are your thoughts when there is an established free route, say 4 pitches long, that is awesome. Someone adds more ok pitches (overlapping other esoteric routes in the process) & renames the whole thing even though the crux pitch was already established- free.


I seem to remember this happening to a route you were in on the FFA of.




Renaming seems to be more of an ego/marketing ploy in a lot of modern day situations around here, people want to be known for their efforts. This isn't always a bad thing since I guess it gets ppl on the routes but it is kinda weird in a way.

I guess I renamed my dog when I adopted her......

I like how some recently resurrected routes that have been freed kept their name: liquid gold, bullethead east, the terror, etc.



However in certain situations it seems appropriate to rename a route or certain pitches if the free line takes a major variation from the aids line or has completely different pitches. Uwall is an Interesting example since the aid line & the FFA use some different pitches but its still uwall- free. Since "the shadow" follows the original uwall line & not that of the FFA I could understand how it would be deserving of its own name as a free variation otherwise it could be confusing.




Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
say 4 pitches long, that is awesome. Someone adds more ok pitches (overlapping other esoteric routes in the process) & renames the whole thing even though the crux pitch was already established- free.

Hey Ryan, curious scenario; sounds like ya got something specific in mind !

It's not a black 'n' white argument for sure. As noted, sometimes folks will free a big pitch on a wall ( The Shadow, Genius Loci ) and so it makes sense that pitch would be "renamed" - although the entire route ( respectively UWall & 10Yrs After ) remain intact.

As for your scenario, I would say a rename is inappropriate however that's going on the evidence you've provided. Perhaps with more I might have a different opinion :-)

Of course the intention of the person doing the name change is what is in question here. If it's to Get Noticed, there are other ways of doing that. Go climb a new route that's never been done ! Or just be happy with doing a FFA.



cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 3, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2013/08/new-life-the-calling-and-freeway-in-squamish/

Some spray from a recent trip to Squamish.



Thanks again to Ryan for coming to hang out and a bunch of beta!

It had been too long since I'd been to Squamish. What a fun place!

-Luke
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 3, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Maybe there will be a Hamish vs Hamish battle over that pitch of Uncle Bens getting renamed The Golden Throat Charmer
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 3, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
That pitch looks brilliant.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
Next time you're back Cultureshock, link the Calling's 2nd pitch in your photo with the next one above.

You will say, WOW !
MH2

climber
Sep 3, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
Well done, cultureshock/Luke. Great climbs and pics. I really like the moment captured at the crux of New Life with Alix looking like a 5'6" person would after a long reach, and the tree patiently growing back. Good perspective on the enduro-corner of The Calling, too.

edit:

Yes, for the purist the chains come before the corner ends. But they came just in time for us.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 3, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
That Calling dihedral is the best! Way to get on it Cultureshock! Isn't Astro Ledge scary as shiiite to cross?!!! I totally wigged out on it before.

Luke, Mad Nerd and Poodle is a way cooler name than the one we called it. Simian Response is pretty much the worst name ever.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 4, 2013 - 12:06am PT
Yeah Luke(Cultureshock)! Rad TR man, super good to meet you. Hopefully we'll see u up this way again soon. Makin' the loc's look like a buncha weenies here, way to get after it.


Tami, the example I used is the Milk rd. no disrespect to Jeremy F cuz I think he does a lot of great work for the community & I'm not trying to discount his massive efforts in any way. Who knows Maybe he'll even chime in. I think its relevant to what we are talking about though & like any good junior troll in training it seemed worth mentioning. I just thought it was Interesting how it was renamed & is now listed as an entire route top 100, instead of milk run- the classic & milk rd, the upper half or extension. Maybe u guys talked about it or something & I am hardly qualified to say, just bein a weenie smokin bowls in the backyard. I would think though that when routes are renamed & reclaimed & extended & straightened out & freed that some of the historical context has the potential to be blurred. Sometimes this could be a good thing i guess. One of my favorite things about climbing is the historical context.

Relics route is a similar scenario it seems. I think simian response is a cool name Relic, whatever the hell it means.


Credit: RyanD









Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:53am PT
just bein a weenie smokin bowls in the backyard


That's the best kind !
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