Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Had a shot at this on the weekend...anyone else done it?
I'm not sure. A lot of those Squamish climbs look the same. Is that Diedre you're headed for? Or Slab Alley? Really hard to tell from the picture.
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
Holy f*#kin' shorts over polypro.
How was the alder covered road Fish Boy?
|
|
Fish Boy
Social climber
Squeamish
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2014 - 09:48am PT
|
That's lycra.
About 15 kilometers of the road was overgrown....constant scraping on the car. A few kilometers were quite bad, numerous forearm sized branches being pushed out of the way. You have to not care about your paint. I have a silver car and think I can cut most of the scratches away though. Several sections were a bit tricky and involved some chainsaw action to make modifications to the road with trees....i was in a rav 4 though, anything bigger would be fine. The water bars get big in spots, but if ya know how to drive em....
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
|
Headed to Squamish this coming Sunday for a while...stoke is high...first trip to Canada..any advice??
Climb all the classics. Squamish Buttress, Ultimate Everything, Angel's Crest. Then step it up and hit up the grand wall. If you're not quite there yet, go do peasants route, apron strings and exasperator.
Most areas are worth a visit. 1 star climbs here are better than some 5 star climbs elsewhere.
Looks like fun Nick! You finally got up there eh?
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
|
Ryan, Big Mike, and other locals can be a great help, not only in recommending great climbs but in recommending equally great climbs that won't have other climbers above and below you. Not that there is any problem, but try to be thoughtful if you need to pass parties or they want to pass you.
Has anyone heard the Brit explanation of the star rating system that begins, "One star pretty much means you should drop everything else and go climb it?"
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
|
What is Sandra on?
Ryan can't play ;) (cause he was there..)
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
|
Right side of Pink Kliff
Environmentally Friendly
Pat on the Back, Payan route, climbs the same lower crack for 10 feet before stepping left and up the face - really fun route for the grade
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2014 - 08:47pm PT
|
Sandra's on crack!!!!!
(Say hi to her for us big guy.)
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
|
Nice Dru! Pat on the back is fun. We did it last time were there.
Ya she is Dave! This was her first tree anchor. She says hi too!
|
|
alina
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2014 - 07:44am PT
|
Fun thread. Getting me stoked, as I'll be heading to Vancouver on Monday for a conference.
It looks like I'm getting lucky with the weather:
My question is: how fast do things dry out? What can I get on Tuesday that won't be seeping?
i'll also have some half-days, so suggestions for routes I can do in the morning and do conference in the afternoon are also welcome.
I'm meeting up a local, so I'm sure I'll be well taken care of. But I'd love to hear route recommendations. Right now The Grand Wall on The Chief is the only thing on the list. I'm breaking into easy 11 and he will be the rope gun. Thoughts? Thanks!
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2014 - 08:14am PT
|
As an introduction to the area, the Upper Malemute dries fast (exposed to wind and sun and the top slopes backwards so there isn't much drainage). If the cracks on Upper Malemute are still wet, other cracks are probably not dry, either.
Hike in to the base of the Grand Wall and look up. After rain there is often wetness above Perry's Lieback which makes the route more exciting but not harder. Traffic keeps holds free of grunge.
Go up to the Solarium and do Sunblessed. Go with someone who knows how to get there. Sunblessed is a great 3 pitch route in a fine position and dries as quickly as anything else.
The Upper Apron gets sun early. Some sparsely bolted friction routes up there are sure to be dry if anything is.
Go to the Smoke Bluffs if weather is iffy or you don't have a lot of time.
edit:
It isn't actually raining now. In West Vancouver, at least. If things don't get too wet, they won't need to dry out.
|
|
alina
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2014 - 11:21am PT
|
Thanks for the recommendations, MH2.
Sunblessed looks sick. As does Overly Hanging Out and Crescent Crack on Malamute.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 11:48am PT
|
Hi Alina!
Great suggestions from Andy. Might i also suggest Grub Street at the malemute??
For your mornings, the smoke bluffs will certainly be a good bet. I suggest Center Street at crag x, Supervalue just around the corner, then Kangaroo corner which is on your way to penny lane where you should do Climb and Punishment and Partners in Crime (the bottom might be a little wet).
Later in the week you should hit up the ultra classic Angel's Crest. Check out www.squamishclimbing.com as there are quite a few newer routes you might enjoy.
I would suggest milk run too, but it's north facing so most likely wet at the moment.
The bulletheads dry quickly too. Bullethead east is a classic that has just received a beauty scrub from Harry a couple years ago. Rainy day dream away is absolutely striking you will be drawn to it. Pitch in time is fun to at 10b. 10d for the last 5m.
Manana looks awesome though i've never had the opportunity to enjoy it, and Xenolith dance is rad if you like slab. Take slot machine to get there. Perfect warm up.
Theres tons of fun moderate stuff too but i kept my recco's above 5.10 to keep with your grade preference.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
|
One more thing. Check out the Squaw! Birds of Prey is a classic and great game should be challenging enough for you!! If not, Right Wing should kick your a$$!!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 12:16pm PT
|
It seems like it doesn't rain up here nearly as much as it used to!
Things usually dry quite quickly when they are exposed to the sun and wind!
Also a nice thing about squamish is the rock is usually pretty damn solid!
Lol!
VVVVVVVV
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
|
I've been looking at these Squamish pics for years now...the faces beside those splitters look sooooo smooth, how can you possibly get hurt falling?.??
It's a deathtrap, man. Those faces are full of razor-sharp crystals, and dozens of climbers die every year from blood loss after even short falls.
But are the cracks slimy from perpetual rain? Does the rock ever dry out?
Those cracks are worse than you can imagine. Not just with water and mud, but they're full of slugs, and dozens of varieties of stinging, biting insects, to say nothing of aquatic snakes like water moccasins. And the cracks never dry out. Never!
Whatever you do, don't go there. The climbing sucks, the locals are unfriendly, and you're gonna die.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
|
Lol.. We've excummunicated him to Seattle.. He's Washington's problem now! Lol
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 12:44pm PT
|
Well, you need certification to guide here, which is something i do not posess. But i wouldn't mind hooking up with a fellow climber. As long as beers and dinner are included!
No seriously i have had some major hospitality shown to me lately and would love to return the favour.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
|
Lol! I need to talk to uncle Peter and ask him if he can get Evolv to build me a pair of Astroman's that will fit me!! My ankles are a bloody mess from the wide stuff!!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
|
Next time you see him SB pull out a bag of cheesies! He'll come running.. Lol of course you'll have to come north to get them!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!