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Messages 5581 - 5600 of total 9011 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
MH2

climber
Sep 2, 2013 - 01:16am PT
The photo with Karel in handjammies is Stephanie's Tears. Who is Stephanie and why is she teary?








I could be wrong about the name. But the route that starts here connects to it and to High Mountain Woody.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Of course it is! Super fun climb. Sandra and i did it awhile ago with Nina and Kyle, but i started via the Gonch pull variation that goes straight through the "cuturally modified" cedar. Instead of stepping right at the neighbourhood bully bolt.
MH2

climber
Sep 3, 2013 - 12:11pm PT


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 3, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Ahhhh, Stephanie's tears. I love that thing, guess its been a while. Pretty sure that stump there was a full size tree last time I did it? Not the stump with the wiener on it but the other one.

Edit- fight club!

No way, never seen anyone up there either.

Great shot Andy?

Big Mike, I like that shot of yours too! Nice light, is that the climb right of MCM?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 3, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Fight Club = original last pitch of Mayday.

I have fond memories of gingerly stepping onto the Big Bro in the flare while solo aiding that thing in the 90s.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 3, 2013 - 12:59pm PT



Credit: thekidcormier

Shart in the dark but does anyone want to let me read their copy of Alpinist, so i can catch up of the myths and the mayhem? I'll trade a couple cups of coffee. :)
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
Why was the name changed from Mayday?

Have we had this discussion on here - the one of re-naming routes after they're freed?

While writing the Alpinist piece, I heard from one old-timer that he really really disliked the practice of changing the name of the old route after the FFA.

His thoughts , and I agree with them , are that the first people to climb the route are the first to climb the thing aid or no aid. The name should just remain intact and not be changed because it's now "free".

I agree with it particularly with regards to FFAs. While some are redpointed on sight, others are projects. So are there degrees to FFAs ? Yes I think there are. So now when buddy#1 does the worked-over-time version of the FFA and renames the route, does buddy#2 come along, redpoint it and change the name too because it's now an arguably different ascent?

Anyway. Some Tuesday morning thoughts........feel free to disagree with me but don't call me names.

Oh, and, full disclosure - I'm not sure if I ever was part of an FFA where the name was changed. I might have been. But I don't recall our gang changing route names after FFAs as a regular practice.

LUKE EDIT : I've got plenty of copies for you to have one. Please PM me with how we might get it to you.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
Oh, and, full disclosure - I'm not sure if I ever was part of an FFA where the name was changed. I might have been. But I don't recall our gang changing route names after FFAs as a regular practice.

Lol.. We've been down this road a few times Tami! ;) Does "Mad Dog and Englishman" ring a bell? ;) I know you weren't involved with "The Shadow" but that seemed to set a precedent as well. Of course, not all names are victims, "Cobra Crack" being one example. It seems to depend on the ffa'ist.

Nice pic Andy, love that 75-200mm.

Ryan- Yup, the Barley slab route next to mcm.
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
Which route is that Luke?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
Grinnn........ Isn't it Mad Englishman and Dog ? There's a story there & it's pretty funny.

I spoze I see it a lot at Squamish - renaming old routes that is.

Was kinda going to bat on behalf of HM who told me he hates climbers doing that. Said it takes away from the original FA.

When ME&Dog was done it was expressly done to piss off a very specific person.

And "The Shadow" is but one pitch on a multi-pitch wall so I understand that one. ( I wasn't on that one btw )

Mike can you tell kidcormier I have a copy of #43 with his name on it. We need to get it to him tho' :-D
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Tami YOu old goose you!

What about routes that have a free name and an Aid name such as 'Strange Brew' for example, an easier finish to cannabis wall that deviates around the aid crux of Sutton and Burtons 'BreakfastRun'. When Climbed free it is know as 'Midnight Run'.

I think in this case it was givin both names by Andrew Boyd(?), not change by someone else.

it would seem pretty arrogant to have the "I freed it I deserve to change the name" attitude.

But dubbing it with a free name kinda makes its more clear what style you climbed it or aspire to climb it.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Honk ! Honk !

Using the two-name system seems like a good idea to me esp if the "new" name isn't too different than the original one. Breakfast Run / Midnight Run seems like a good qualifier.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
feel free to disagree with me but don't call me names.

Bird-doo head! Toilet Face!!!

And for what it's worth, a climber who frees a formerly aided line and wants to change the name has pretty much zero chance to do so unless the guidebook writer agrees. There's a very strong old-boy-network thing involved here.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
Bring it to the party this weekend Tami! ;)

Isn't the renaming thing, a Yosemite free route tradition as well?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
SO there IS a par-tay this weekend ?

I don't recall there being a strong ethic on name changing in Yos. When a big wall went free ( e.g. Astroman or The Crucifix ) the names were not so much changed but added ; those routes were known by their aspect of the feature they're found on.

Astroman was "East Face Washington Column"

Lynn Hill didn't change the name of The Nose.

Party Edit : kk, thanks.




Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Yup. Perry confirmed for Saturday night.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
Mad Englishman and Dog story's old news...

We want the dirt behind 'Mad Nerd and Poodle'

Credit: thekidcormier
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 3, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
LUKE! You'll get yer mag at Perrys whether or not I'm there. :-D


I don't know Mad Nerd & Poodle. When, where & , more to the point , who?

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 3, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Fight Club is just one pitch of Mayday though (the last), although going by the topo in the Culbert guide it's actually more like two original pitches. Also Mayday extended an earlier one pitch climb called Compression Crack. So where to draw the line? Should the Jardine Traverse just be called "The Nose pitch 12" or whatever?

Should we still be calling Beers are Not Enough "Petrifying Wall" ?

What's up with this gondola-led rebranding of White Rock as Ultraviolet Cliff?

What about retroactive renaming of one's own routes?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 3, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
I agree with it particularly with regards to FFAs. While some are redpointed on sight, others are projects. So are there degrees to FFAs ? Yes I think there are. So now when buddy#1 does the worked-over-time version of the FFA and renames the route, does buddy#2 come along, redpoint it and change the name too because it's now an arguably different ascent?



Tami,

This is interesting. What are your thoughts when there is an established free route, say 4 pitches long, that is awesome. Someone adds more ok pitches (overlapping other esoteric routes in the process) & renames the whole thing even though the crux pitch was already established- free.


I seem to remember this happening to a route you were in on the FFA of.




Renaming seems to be more of an ego/marketing ploy in a lot of modern day situations around here, people want to be known for their efforts. This isn't always a bad thing since I guess it gets ppl on the routes but it is kinda weird in a way.

I guess I renamed my dog when I adopted her......

I like how some recently resurrected routes that have been freed kept their name: liquid gold, bullethead east, the terror, etc.



However in certain situations it seems appropriate to rename a route or certain pitches if the free line takes a major variation from the aids line or has completely different pitches. Uwall is an Interesting example since the aid line & the FFA use some different pitches but its still uwall- free. Since "the shadow" follows the original uwall line & not that of the FFA I could understand how it would be deserving of its own name as a free variation otherwise it could be confusing.




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