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Messages 5581 - 5600 of total 8002 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
Should i post that vid in it's own thread so it doesn't get lost in this Squamish tome?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 7, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Nothing gets lost here Mike:-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
True, but it becomes more difficult to find ;) i was thinking for the cali types who don't frequent this thread.
perswig

climber
Apr 7, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
That Grand Wall vid had me fighting off pump and bile.
Those kiwi's sure have dirty mouths, eh?

Dale
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
For the sake of variety, here's a few pics of my little pilgrimage to Mecca ..... Chamonix that is, birth place of climbing. Oh I know, you ask any American and they,ll say its Yosemite valley but the truth is that climbing as we know it ( a completely frivolous and materially useless recreational persuit indulged in by either end of the leisure class) was a completely euro invention and Chamonix is the Wailing wall. Having never been there I sought to correct this error with a glorious sampling of a few dozen iconic mega classics but to make a long story short - the weather sucks there worst than Squamish! That's my excuse anyway and I,m sticking to it.

Booted from Cham I salvaged the mission with a visit to Fontainbleau (birhtplace of modern bouldering) Boux ( birthplace of the modern mono doight) and the Calanques ( birth place of the modern fun in the sun road trip cragging).

Of interest to some of the more prehistoric denizens of ST, my visit started in Leysin Switzerland, famed location of the International School of Mountaineering first directed by John Harlin ( killed on the eiger) then Dougal Haston ( killed in an Avy just above town) then Pete Boardman (killed on the big E ) and visited by various Yankee celebrities like Royal Robins and various Canadian celebrities like Chic Scott ( Chic who?) It's a cool little town stuck way up on a fairly obscure hillside and hardly changed much since Harlins time.

The immediate reaction to looking out over the Rhone valley is that it...
The immediate reaction to looking out over the Rhone valley is that it looks just like the Fraser valley up by chilli whack, except all the cut blocks are farmers fields and every logging road is paved and leads to a ski lift!
Credit: Bruce Kay

Anders should never go to Europe - he,d have a massive heart attack!
Anders should never go to Europe - he,d have a massive heart attack!
Credit: Bruce Kay

Oh look - another lift going straight up a 4000 meter mountain with ev...
Oh look - another lift going straight up a 4000 meter mountain with everybody from high heeled tourons, lift skiers to seasoned alpiinists sketching down the freaky hand rail to the glacier.
Credit: Bruce Kay

Derek flett, my host in Leysin on the classic Mordica Noury goulette o...
Derek flett, my host in Leysin on the classic Mordica Noury goulette on the Tacul.

Fully bolted.

Just kidding.
Credit: Bruce Kay

Well I,ll be...... Another bunch of wires going up a big cliff! <br/>
 <br/>
A...
Well I,ll be...... Another bunch of wires going up a big cliff!

Anders would totally flip!
Credit: Bruce Kay

We tried one more route - the famous Beyond Good and Evil, that little...
We tried one more route - the famous Beyond Good and Evil, that little white stripe up and right - but got washed off by spindrift. Time to head south.
Credit: Bruce Kay
]

Boux!  This is where North American climbers first became aware that "...
Boux! This is where North American climbers first became aware that " French free" perhaps meant a little more than yarding your way up a bolt ladder.
Credit: Bruce Kay

Humiliated by the sport routes,  we immediately turned to the cracks o...
Humiliated by the sport routes, we immediately turned to the cracks only to discover....... More sport routes! This one would be 5 stars in Squamish, but get a load of all the Barley staples!
Credit: Bruce Kay

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
Welcome home Bruce! Looks like an all time trip, good for you man, i hope u had a blast. Awesome photos too! Where's the full TR?






Did u say bouldering?!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 8, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
Hey Ryan - you would have been proud of me.

Well, maybe not
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
Ya buddy!! Sick!! Looks like ya had fun out
There!!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Apr 9, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Someone completely unrelated to ST posted this video on the VRGC site so I had a look and lo and behold look who it is! Hope you don't mind me posting this here.


Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
Hahahahaha!! Lol!

Lurker Kyle! What site was it posted on Harry?
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Apr 9, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
So BK, now that you have seen that staples are quite common abroad, I dont even think they use anything else in Spain, what do you think about them being in use here?

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Kyle says it's not him. Weird. He's got a doppleganger!
MH2

climber
Apr 9, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Maybe the 2 Kyles will meet the 2 Véroniques.



Maybe that is too obscure.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Kyle talked to Robin yesterday about staples. This was his reply:

we talked a fair bit on staples and his thorough testing on them. He also explained how they are actually much safer than most other bolts, because bolts can pop out if the rock inside deteriorates. With the glue ins, water can not penatrate the epoxy.

A good example was the route we were climbing right beside him: catscan. The bolts were rusty and had probably compromised the rock that we could not see. He says people use silicone or something to keep water out nowadays, but you can't tell from looking.


Our rock here is much stronger than most other places, so bolts hold very well. Most other places in Europe use staples not for there cheapness but because of the water/ intrusion factor.

Another reason he uses his systems is simply because people were stealing his hardware straight off the rock in certain places.


I asked him about how long the glue lasts and he said they told him 50 years. He doubts that, but is sure it will last a long time.

About the removal with a crowbar; that's a slot of leverage power which he figures is probably exerting around 4000 pounds to remove them with an outwards jerk. The staples are drilled two and a half inches deep at a downwards angle, so in a lead fall scenario you couldn't mimic an outwards torque.

Robin if you are reading this, thank you for your interest in my health. It means a lot. Best wishes to you also sir!


Mh2, Veroniques joke definetly went right over my head.. ;)
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Apr 9, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
Thanks Mike
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 9, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
How many of those staples are three sigma tested? What's the variation in strength with quality control?

How about those stupid chiseled-out keyhole nut placements in blank rock?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 10, 2013 - 01:09am PT
I thought this was funny...

Robin Barley.
I find it best, and considerably less frustrating, to see Robin less as a climber or developer of routes and more of a force of nature. You can get upset all you want at the approaching storm, shake your fist at the clouds, even yell at the rain. But the storm -like Barely- couldn't care less what you think and will not be stopped. So like the storm, it's best to just sit back, watch in wild wonder then go out and pick up the pieces after the storm has passed.

Aaron.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 01:18am PT

How many of those staples are three sigma tested? What's the variation in strength with quality control?

Dunno. Don't think they have a stamp on em.. ;)


How about those stupid chiseled-out keyhole nut placements in blank rock?

That's just wrong. Where??

On a lighter note, i booked a campsite for Facelift. So......

Who's comin with me man!!

Besides brownie i hope.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 10, 2013 - 01:22am PT
Cool video Harry thanks for posting, we call that first problem pinch problem tho, stunt dbl is the infamous Cortez.


Bruce, I'm proud of anyone who goes to font. That place is a lifetime of type 1 fun, just follow the arrows.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 10, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
A friend of mine, perhaps hoping to retire early, is reluctantly offering this rare and valuable piece of Canadiana for sale. Something to own and treasure for a while, and then sell later to feather your own retirement nest.

Credit: hamie

Condition:
.....Some yellowing, otherwise good [fine?]
.....Content now 33 years out of date.
.....Name of previous owner [Larry Ostrander] inside front cover.

Those living in the Vancouver area may be able to arrange a signature from the maestro himself. A similar copy is listed for $35- plus postage $10- by Chessler.

PM me. or post offers on this site. When I get your cheque, I will mail the book, with no charge for postage. Such a deal. :) :)

EDIT In case you wondered, the complete guide is for sale, not just the front cover.
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