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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 25, 2014 - 01:57am PT
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I was just checking something on mtnproj and a photo of Pipeline came up, so I checked it out.
I know I'd heard the story before on ST but DAMN, Grug gets the FFA solo???!!!
How is that thing anyway?
Striking from a distance, fo sho.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2014 - 02:30am PT
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Jefe! Lol! So i spoke with Grug about this at Facelift. He said that Perry Beckham had pointed it out and told him of it's legendary first ascent with 5 and 6+ inch sections of pipe used for aid.
Greg said he didn't think there was any way he could fall out of something he could get so much of his body into, and the scariest part was passing the old fixed pipes!! (which incidentally might be the first recorded use of tube chocks.)
Perry supposedly suggested the name Pipeloads since renaming aid climbs when freed was somewhat in fashion at the time, but it never stuck.
The tale of the Pipeline is steeped in awesomeness and the climb these days is nothing less. It still repels many suitors who are not ready to shove themselves in the maw. I don't have any pictures, but i might know a few guys who might be interested in a rematch with some more training so i'll keep ya posted. If you search ye shall find
Jeremy- Thanks! You have my draw? Which one? I'll shoot ya a pm.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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May 25, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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Centre street is the crack to the right, you can see it jog right up high again to the ledge where it gets thin. Baby Lizard keeps going left.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 25, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
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Huh, you're right. I thought Baby Lizard was Piece of Pie and vice versa.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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Yes she is indeed on Baby Lizard 10a
Heather trying to get a piece in
Kyle showed up and took my camera for a little solo.
Kyle Koroll Photo
Afterwards Heather wanted to go look at Talking Holds
Kyle racking up.
He led it in his approach shoes.. lol
Getting laid out on Talking Holds 10a
Kyhber says; "you dawgs is crazy!" lol
The call of SuperValue 10c was too loud to resist as we passed
Kyle floated it.. it's not easy.. lol
I flailed on it.. the undercling moves were so close to my feet and gravity did it's evil deed.
What a beauty pitch!
it was great to get a few pitches in despite the rain in the morning!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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evening bump...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2014 - 11:43pm PT
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Anyone climb today?
I climbed some ladders..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 28, 2014 - 12:22am PT
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Pet wall. My fings hurt.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2014 - 12:28am PT
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Nice. Pics? Lol
That's why they call them fingers! Lookit em fing!! Homer Simpson.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 28, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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Last thing I climbed was on Sunday before the rain started.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Big Mike on?!?!?!?!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2014 - 11:25pm PT
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I know! I know! Lol
Nice Dru! I see your crag is getting quite the upgrade lately!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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Saturday me and Phil did Slab Alley. I don't have all the photos done yet but i just couldn't wait to post this one.
Yours truly leading out on the amazing 65m p5 of Slab alley.
Phil Tifo Photo. Hurtin Stitch.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yours truly leading out on the amazing 65m p5 of Slab alley.
That was my first ever lead. On my first ever rock climb.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
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Lol Tami!
Dave did you stop at the crack and build a gear anchor then?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dave did you stop at the crack and build a gear anchor then?
Yeah, I set a couple of ice screws in the glacier.
Actually, I have no idea what I did about anchors. This was the Hammer-and-Piton era,
so if I did set an anchor it would have been either a pin or a sling on a tree. If there was a tree.
All I remember is that I led the top two or three pitches and that they were really easy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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There's a bush there.. So that was probably it. Yes rather easy, but the pro keeps it exciting!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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big grin for y'all's posts above.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Bruce, did you leave them fixed on some 5.8+ at Index?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Did you say you were missing a Big Fro?
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