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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 26, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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The glaciers in the Anderson River are certainly nothing like the glaciers in the Bugs. For one thing, there aren't any glaciers in the Anderson River Range. Unless somebody brings some ice in in their cooler.
There is this cool quarry though.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 29, 2014 - 12:55am PT
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Your stuff is super good, brownie. Was that a cast of one? Liked it very much.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Apr 29, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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thanks MH, yea my casting agent is out of country and I haven't found much for spotters out here. A bit of string and a twig holds the shutter button down quite well, though..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:02am PT
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Well it was a group effort, but we still couldn't quite get the rope up there.
Cool vid Kieran.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:11am PT
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Kelowna = the Boulderfields = Natural Gas, great trad route.
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MH2
climber
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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Looks like the tracks are clear, though, Ryan.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 29, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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Derailed in Hicksville?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 29, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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I think the last train was also the first train.
Edit- free neutrino for anyone who's game, don't cheat & rap in to get it!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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Dave- Being required to ski sounds rough! Lol
Jim- Thanks for that tale about the Lobster Hatten! Now if you had a picture to go with it, that would be priceless! Am i going to have to steal your slides and hire an aussie to scan them, so that we can finally see some of your images?? Lol
Drew- That quarry is crazy! Quite a few countertops there...
Kieran- Killer solo production bro! Jack of all trades indeed!
Ryan- Last Train To Hicksville! Sweet! Perry will be happy to see that all sparkly!
I wouldn't have left my biner though.. That would have been worth a lap on caboose for sure!
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MH2
climber
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Apr 29, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Big Mike - Your physical, mental, and whatever-else-there-is recovery truly inspires me. Thanks for getting back to this thread. After the life-changer that got you, it reassures me that there IS something special about climbing and the people who do it.
Or it could be collective insanity.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
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Or it could be collective insanity.
Yup! :)
Thanks Andy. I couldn't have done it without all the support and love i received. My Doctors, Physios, Family, Friends, and all the people here on supertopo (many of whom i feel lucky to consider friends) were instrumental in my recovery.
I'm pretty darn stoked right now, to be working on a goal which i made years before my injury!!! I leave for Cali thursday morning!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 09:46pm PT
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Good to know! Thanks Jim!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
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We got out today with out friends Phil and Chelsea for Sandra's birthday. I got to hang out with them a couple weeks ago too, but never got around to posting photos so here they are.
Phil and Chels were running behind that day, and i didn't really wanna wait, so i headed up to the bluffs to try and find a rope solo which would be beneficial for my jugging technique.
I wandered up to Pixie Corner with digital dexterity in mind, but after looking at it for a minute, i ran into these two austrian dudes who had just finished pixie corner.
They started asking me all kinds of questions and told me they were only here for the day and had a grand total of 4 cams on them..
I offered to climb with them since i didn't have a partner, and we sauntered off towards burgers and fries.
When we got there it was quite busy so we went down to bilbo baggins which i ran a rope up for them.
Both their names were Phil
Yes that's beer can Al soloing on the left.
Phil and Chels showed up just as the austrians had enough and rushed off to hike the chief b4 dark.
Phil leading Bilbo Baggins 5.7
Chelsea belays Phil with the chief hiding in the trees.
I got bored and decided to rope solo this little 5.6 free, in my approach shoes.
Phil Tifo photo
Yes i forgot to wear my helmet. Yes grigri's suck for free self belays.. Lol
Phil jumped on this little 5.7 number after.
After we went over to the Libya Sucks area and i showed Phil and Chelsea the new Jim.s/Peder.o
contributions.
Phil on (anyone know the names?) the left 5.7.
It's pretty barren down there since hydro did their trim.. It's gonna be a desert this summer.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Big Mike is in the air as I write this, on an Alaska Airlines 737 from Seattle to Sacretomato. We took him in yesterday afternoon, got him partying with Steve, Mimi, & Wayno, and somehow still managed to get up at 05:00 and get him to the airport.
Norwegian's going to meet him at the other end and (this was theory put forth last night) drive directly to the Leap to grab some pitches before the sun sets. Then onward to do battle with the Nose of El Cap.
Whoo hoo! Should be some good photos and tall tales coming to this thread in the next two weeks.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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We were watching the shenanigans on The Last Train To Hicksville during SAR HETS training a week ago. That thing looks cleaner now than when I scrubbed it for the FA!
Nice work.
As background, the route is named after an album by Dan Hicks and his Hot Licks.
Being next to Caboose and in keeping with naming routes after tunes and albums, it made sense.
I originally tried to hook and nail it without bolts to prepare for an ascent of the PO.
Bailed, came back years later, et voila.
Chuffing a fatty and listening to the album is quite a bit easier than doing the route.
A little background on Dan and the album
http://www.danhicks.net/lasttrain.htm
Here's a Dan Hicks favourite off another album.
http://youtu.be/j1syKkHq7iE
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hey thanks for posting Chief!
That's funny u were creeping on us while we dogged the hell outta that thing!!
So what kind of beast were you when u did that thing?? I've done a few other routes of yours at the same grade & this thing is a whole other level.
Flingus cling is a good example & feels like a warmup in comparison lol!
There is a move between the 2nd & 3rd bolt on last train that neither Josh or myself could do or even envision & another at the 2nd to last bolt that verified we were in over our heads??!
I'm sure conditions would help & that afternoon sun doesn't make this thing any easier but damn is it cryptic. Great vision, finger strength & footwork too apparently :-)
I'll be back next winter.
Oh cool backstory on the name too, classic stuff!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Ryan,
No creeping, Ray Charles could have seen the show on the scrubbed stripe.
I vaguely recall a hard pull getting to the stepped ramp then an abundance of worthless pockmarks on the finishing bulge.
At the time it seemed hard but I never liked having a rating down graded and so called it 12a-b.
It'll be interesting to see if there's any consensus now that it's cleaned up and seeing some traffic.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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No creeping, Ray Charles could have seen the show on the scrubbed stripe
Haha yeah you are probably right. Where do u come up with these anecdotes anyways??! They crack me up every time!
Looking forward to sicking some of the local granite tech masters on this one soon to see what they have to say.
Btw I'm not the one who scrubbed/rebolted it. Kieran's roommate Ty can be thanked for the scrub & whoever upgraded the bristlers remains a mystery. A worthy retro effort for sure, we need more technical classics like this that aren't full on featureless slabs.
Can anyone think of any other routes of this caliber that could use a Reno scrub??
I'm guessing LTTH has not seen a lot of ascents in the past 10-15 but was it repeated much back when u first did it Chief??
At the time it seemed hard but I never liked having a rating down graded and so called it 12a-b.
On that note I propose the grade of 11d for Flingus (Jk :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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Whoo hoo! Should be some good photos and tall tales coming to this thread in the next two weeks.
Can i post cali pics on here? Lol
see Going back to Cali! Thread Dave!
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