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Messages 5501 - 5520 of total 8031 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
No worries Kieran, you're fighting the good fight. I just like to know the facts, like how do you know these staples break at 600lbs?? Did someone legitimately pull test one in the lab or is this just the word on the street from those that compete with RB for FAs of all the ledgy 10+ slabs left in the bluffs? I'm no staples advocate as they are ugly & unconventional & generally get put in stupid places between classic cracks & bleached 1 star routes but besides the obvious "you're different, we don't like you" factor, what proof do we have of their safety???
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 14, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
Thanks for posting the link to that website featuring Tony Barley. I'd heard bits and pieces over the years, often from Robin himself and he did indicate that his staple anchors did get some sort of thumbs up from his brother. Incidentally, Robin and Tony were a rope team for many years spanning a number of continents from africa to australia.

I don't think much of the staples either but mostly to do with the difficulty of chopping / replacing them, which I think all anchors should be considered capable of. I've seen a few hack jobs where some idiot pulled them out leaving horrible spalled craters. It seems the only way to do it properly is to cut flush ( rechargeable zip cutter?), hopefully punch in the remains and fill the hole. Good luck on that but whatever you do DON'T MAKE THINGS WORSE.

Its a shame that the system dosn't have some rigorously tested and documented data to support it ( or does it..?) so we could give it the thumbs up - or not.

Maybe some euro or other ST denizen has some knowledge of these thgings out there?



Just a thought - why not just place a regular bolt adjacent to the staple? You get your redundant anchor points and you dont risk botching the chop.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
Just a thought - why not just place a regular bolt adjacent to the staple? You get your redundant anchor points and you dont risk botching the chop.


This is probably the best practice re: single staple anchors


Have a great trip Bruce!




































Fvcker.
browniephoto

climber
bc
Mar 15, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Yo Big Mike,

another one for your entertainment..

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Mar 15, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
I'm no doctor as the old song goes.

I do have to knuckle down to administration on occasion for building construction conclusions. I'm behind the curve.

Staples are what I use to hold papers together with. Grouting rebar into concrete is a practice that has been discredited for at least 25 years when it was involved in structural integrity concerning homes people live in.

Any connection involving steel and concrete is best practiced with the use of embedded rebar at the time of casting. Embedded plates that incorporate cast stud anchors to 3/4's depth of the wall or slab involved are standard practice for a point to weld to.

If a shear component is introduced after casting a wall or slab, it must be adhered to a drilled and thoroughly clean of drill dust, hole by use of appropriate concrete epoxies. In compression, the same rules apply. There is no excuse for drilling and gluing something that's function is in tension unless the application is way below the pull out rating of the anchor. Ultimately all of these methods are a weak "afterthought" way of doing things.

Just because everyone likes to play at being a builder on the weekend, there is a lot of technology and skill involved with doing it right that people would do well to take a course in.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Mar 15, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
Of course SS wedge bolts have proven great in granite in shear and compression. There aren't too many used for pro drilled straight up. This is good...

Most of the construction junk used on climbs has a dynamic reality during a fall the manufacturer never anticipated.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Ryan, I have no proof, I have always just known it wasn't standard practice.

This is good enough reason for me though.
Staples are what I use to hold papers together with. Grouting rebar into concrete is a practice that has been discredited for at least 25 years when it was involved in structural integrity concerning homes people live in.

Thanks for that Jim. I will happily take experienced construction advice over the unknown.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 16, 2013 - 12:29am PT
Ha brownie. One of those two or guys in the blown-down tree story was me. Details tomorrow when I am not typing on this phone.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 16, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 16, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Haha nice vids boys! Cam Ungirth lol
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 16, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
So about that tree belay. Story was in one of the Squamish threads Mighty Wanker deleted when he left ST in a huff.

He and I were climbing the Smoke Bluff Connection (Late 70s? Early 80s?). It was really windy, but otherwise a fine day for climbing. I led the first pitch (Mosquito), he led the second (Phlegmish Dance). When I got to his belay -- which was a small but solid-looking tree -- he was not entirely happy with life. He pointed to a similar tree, lying on the ground a few meters away, and said "It just blew over while I was sitting here."

No more tree belays for us that day.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
Very nice vids boys!

Kieran yours are getting quite artistic indeed!

Ghost, funny story. Thanks ;)
browniephoto

climber
bc
Mar 17, 2013 - 04:14am PT
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2013 - 04:41am PT
30 seconds of heaven!! Thanks Kieran!!!
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Mar 18, 2013 - 01:32am PT
a 600lb climber falling the same distance feels a 6.91 kN force, the anchor a 13.8 kN force, which is getting up there into equipment failure mode.

Ed, I don't think i've ever met a 600lb climber, post picks please.

Last week, climbed a few routes at JT where the crux was protected by a RURP and the chossy start was protected by Knife Blades, thoroughly enjoyable! Sometimes spice is nice. ;-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
Spice is nice. But single staple anchors are lame. How is jtree treating ya Rolfr? Sounds like you're getting lots in!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 22, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Browniebeaverbuttshot
Browniebeaverbuttshot
Credit: RyanD
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 22, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
Just bought my plane tickets for Squamish yesterday. PSYCHED!!!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 22, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
Oooooooooh buddy. If you gotta ticket fer Squamish you gotta pig in a poke. :-D

I assume ya mean YVR :-) Whut's yer plan to get to Squish ?


Have a fabulous trip. I hope you have great wx. Make sure ya got rainy day plans ! :-D
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 22, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Good stuff Grippa. When r u showing up?
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