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browniephoto

climber
bc
Mar 13, 2013 - 03:46am PT
http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4299

bump for squamishclimbing.com

worth a lurk..
Out_of_bounds

climber
Squamish/Revy
Mar 13, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Credit: Out_of_bounds


Hope everyone got out and enjoyed the Sun while it was around!

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Sick pic OOB!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 13, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Cool dog, gooooooooobooooy!


Kieran, why the hatin'? what's wrong with Luke's anchors?? He melted down those shopping carts fair & square.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

LOL!! Think barley just forgot or is there a tree there or something??
browniephoto

climber
bc
Mar 13, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
sure there are trees around mike.. it is squamish after all hehe

the thing i'm worried about is that the double chain links are misleading. A noob might be confused and believe the two chain links represent a redudant anchor system when in reality the staple is a single point of protection. If these staples are in fact breaking at 600lb's of force this would be catastrophic.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
Ya! Hell ya! Two rings means good to go right!! Some horrible prank? I could just see some noobs top roping on it. Is it an easy climb? Where is it??
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Hey I just noticed that you have two handles mr brownie/browniephoto!!

;) what up? Troll account? ;)
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 13, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
Brownie: the hand drill is in my work bench and there is bolts there too.. Stop whining and go get a forearm work out.
browniephoto

climber
bc
Mar 13, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
challenge accepted.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 13, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
I think a 600lb climber could have catastrophic forces on any anchor.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
That's less that three times my weight. How far would I have to fall to exert 600lbs? We need Ed Hartouni in here. Paging Dr Hartouni!! ;)
browniephoto

climber
bc
Mar 13, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
yea, that's why we keep yo momma off the ropes ryan haha





Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
LOL!! ;) hey now. Ryan's momma makes some damn fine ribs!!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 14, 2013 - 02:25am PT
sorry, it's my monster workout night (for me) 2 hrs of gym crack climbing at Planet Granite Sunnyvale followed by 1.5 hrs of Vinyasa Flow yoga (which is doing great things for me...) so I'm toast right now...

Richard has the treatise:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1820554&msg=1820970#msg1820970
His recommended calculator:
http://jt512.dyndns.org/impactcalc


your weight? lets take 170 lbs
if the rope modulus is 14kN m/m
600lb force is 2.67 kN

that's a force factor of 0.15, so if you are out 100 ft and you fall a total of 15 ft you experience a 600lb force...

but I'm terrible at getting this right... especially late...

a 600lb climber falling the same distance feels a 6.91 kN force, the anchor a 13.8 kN force, which is getting up there into equipment failure mode.

If you're a Big Guy/Gal, you might not want to take a leader fall...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2013 - 02:41am PT
Cool stuff Ed!


Hey, leave my momma outta this brownie or brownliephoto or whoever you are! I'll report you to the mods! What's next? A youtube video satire of my latest failures?!?!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 02:48am PT
Hahahaha..., Ed, thank you!! I was actually just kidding about getting you to do the calculation since I never expected you to even see this!! So a 220lb climber like myself would definitely want to avoid a leader fall on a single staple.

I believe this is a single pitch climb which would eliminate a leader fall ever occurring on said anchor unless someone decided to pitch off with slack or something.

Is there a top rope situation that could theoretically pull said staple? Maybe a beginner belayer with a ton of slack out, and a climber my weight?

Please sir, only if you have the time and interest.

Thanks again!

Edit sounds like even with a two staple anchor and a short fall factor two situation I could generate enough force to blow said anchor. Good enough reason for me. Kill all staples!!!

Edit2
What's next? A youtube video satire of my latest failures?!?!

LMAOROF it's comedy hour over here!!! ;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2013 - 03:15am PT
The question is? Where did this 600lb figure come from?

I'm sure RBs anchors can deal with more than that, I remember someone telling me his passed brother was like an anchor engineer or something?

I wouldn't worry about it too much there boys- It's probably on top of some 10+ "classic featureless SB wasteland" anyways that only Kieran or Luke would climb:-) The route will probably get chopped, green or retroed in the next 2 yrs. maybe all 3. Nature has its own ways of dealing with RB routes. That said lets go tie a massive something to that thing with a chunk of static & throw it off! BTW Big Mike, often much more force in a slack TR fall than a soft leader fall so ur probably gonna die for sure TRn single staples but that's a debate for another thread! Have a good night!



Credit: RyanD


Edit- here's a link about RBs bro, would be weird if he had the nickname "anchorman" in the engineering world &his bro is up here putting in dangerous hardware??



http://www.sbmasystems.com/page5.html
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 03:18am PT
Ahhh the north walls... More!!

I miss the chief.. And the mountains!!!
browniephoto

climber
bc
Mar 14, 2013 - 04:14am PT
i apologize for laughin at yer momma ryan..

but back to the other topic..

A single anything for an anchor cannot be defined as "safe", we do it with trees all the time and yea they're pretty friggin bomber but I do remember a story about a tree blowing over on the smoke bluff connection. The twist was that the belayer and his partner were attached to a similar specimen. Now, I won't just go and stop using trees because of this story. I have confidence in my judgement of a satisfactory belay tree and i'm sure the aforementioned party had the same feel for what was a bomber anchor. The evidence to support this being the survival of the two climbers. It's a different story when some fresh-out-of-the-gym-weekend-warrior comes up and starts clipping bolts until he/she finds himself at this anchor. She/he may not have the experience to recognize the yergonnadie factor, potentially putting themselves in a theoretical situation in which they would have to call SAR who would then direct them to the local taxi business who could take them the 3 blocks to the hospital. In fact, I do believe this topic has already been chewed to a cud and all i've done is blow off some post-work steam by act of reiterating an age old ethics issue...

good night
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