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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 01:33am PT
Heck ya! MacDonald looks rad!!!

Ryand you should post your st vitus adventure in here!!!

Luke, your fish is sideways!! ;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 7, 2013 - 03:11am PT
Haha not much more to tell there Mike, but since you've got extra taco time these days I'll give it a shot in hopes it will help you pass some time & crack a grin.

Even though Luke an I see each other all the time & hang out at the crag or in the rain somewhat regularly we had never really shared a rope, we've conspired to do many great climbs & even have a open wager on who will complete a certain climbing challenge first but its been tough to get out & tie in on the same line. We figured it was high time & while we were out cragging at lumberland in the afternoon (not sharing a rope though) we decided on an evening st V lap. The best apron route IMO + with Luke + @ night + for a chance to put a grin on BM's bedridden face had all the makings of a great outing.

As for details? Not much to tell, ive done the route a bunch & luke had only done the first & last pitch. Hmm, lets see: we simuled up the approach pitches to the ledge, when I saw Luke put me on the hip belay at the tie in I figured we were pretty much just carrying the rope up to the real climbing so yeah I was surprised for sure when Luke fell seconding the 5.7 just below the treed ledge! I caught him on a biner belay from my stance against the wall with my feet on the log, funny thing was I thought about my setup & readjusted just before he peeled. We had a good laugh about that & The rest of the route was fun, Luke led & we simuled up to memorial where Luke ran the PDL up memorial crack which was the first wetness we encountered on the climb. As mentioned elsewhere we conspired about ice on the buttress & Luke had inside info on the recently discovered samsquantch so we pussed out & headed down. Normally I'd take the gulley raps too but since we did Memorial crack there was no point by the time we got off there. As for the death rope, I think it's pretty sweet, but now that the swamp somehow disappeared(?????) underneath it, I'll just rap on my rope next time. Night climbing is fun & Luke climbs with the tenacity of a honey badger, likely his spirit animal- who wouldn't want to climb with a honey badger?? I look forward to more.

Squamish nightlife
Squamish nightlife
Credit: RyanD

Now what I want to know is, how the hell does BK have all this time to pick all of this wonderful fruit?? Sounds like a brilliant climb you guys put up there. Bmacd, u ever climb your namesake mountain??
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 7, 2013 - 10:33am PT
I think I recall that 5.7 move I peeled off on was a tad on the wet side...

Mike was extremely disappointed when I told him I was pulling on gear the whole way up. But we were moving at 200m vertical per hour rate which is pretty good considering our objective only requires 50m per hour.

Running the PDL for the first time was totally awesome.
MH2

climber
Mar 7, 2013 - 11:10am PT
I worked night shift for years. There you are far from the centers of power, the sheriff is asleep, and you make your own rules.

Is PDL one of those position-sensitive headlamps?

Now go repost this great story on the What Did You Climb Last Night thread.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 11:24am PT
As for the death rope, I think it's pretty sweet

Ya that roller I dropped a couple weekends ago is usually pretty sick too. Too bad I didn't stick the landing. Just saying be careful dude. I'd rather not find you lying next to me here or worse. When I'm better I'm gonna go chop that thing so no one else risks it...

Andy thanks for lunch yesterday dude!!!
MH2

climber
Mar 7, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Good to see you getting some zzzzzs, Mike. You gotta turn it up a notch or several if you want to win any snoring contest, though. Don't worry too much. Between you and John Long lately there are lots of people being a little more careful. But sometimes a chicken just has to cross a road.

edit

Thanks Luke
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 7, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
The PDL is a short fixing technique were learning in order to coverground fast. Instead of the leader self belaying after fixin the rope you just start leadin with a death loop of slack, set up for loafty whip on to the anchor if you blow it before for first piece, until you run out of rope then your partner puts you back on belay.

A system best applied when leading in blocks with the "leader must never fall" mentality
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Mar 7, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
"leader must never fall" mentality

Please describe how this axiom is achieved, because I don't believe the present generation of Squamish Internet climbers are capable of this method.
Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
Mar 8, 2013 - 01:42am PT
Pakistani Death Loop...
browniephoto

climber
bc
Mar 8, 2013 - 03:25am PT
yo mike this ones for you!



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 04:27am PT
Too sick dude!! I love it. Gotta go find a proper computer to watch it on downstairs!!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Mar 8, 2013 - 08:56am PT
That's a well edited documentary of our extensive mental and physical training regime.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Anyone out climbing today?? Hope so!!
MH2

climber
Mar 9, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
Nice work Andy!!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 9, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
When are the best months to climb there?
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Mar 9, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Andy I presume you took the picture,so who is the mystery man as it doesn't look like you?


Credit: harryhotdog
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Mar 9, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
Five stars for that seaside photo.
MH2

climber
Mar 9, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
If I didn't take the photo it must have been these guys. Now that would be mysterious. Maybe a shortwave tripped the remote.

Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Mar 9, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
Anyone out climbing today?? Hope so!!

Swapped leads on a half a dozen routes in JT with a strong young climber from Ontario, Luckily he lead Side Winder, dam it seemed a lot easier 23 years ago.
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