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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
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Sweet link Luke! Thanks for that!
Sunday's plan was to head up the Bullethead Gully and check out Wrist Twister. I met up with Nick in a very busy Chief parking lot.
Our version of el cap meadow... lol
After we racked up, we started up the Tantalus wall trail and made our way up to the gully. It was easy going until we reached the fixed ropes. One of them looked fairly new, so that inspired some confidence. The rotten fixed etrier however was not to be trusted especially since the top step was ripped wide open.
I took my time and made sure my left foot was solid whenever possible while wrapping my hand with the rope. The last thing I needed was a huge fall on to Nick at this point in my recovery.
I got up the rope into the central gully and started climbing up the divots left by the passage of many soles. I had almost reached the fixed rope to Eurasian eyes when Nick called up to me. I think it's down here! I looked back and spotted the fixed rope up to our starting ledge.
Nick went first up the next rope, and I was somewhat assured by his safe passage. I took my time and the rope was fairly new, so it wasn't that bad, but i just felt really exposed in that kind of terrain without protection.
When I arrived Nick was looking up at the first pitch. I studied it for a bit when he asked; "do you want to lead the first pitch?" The start of the pitch was an undercling leading up to a blank wall. I could see a good bolt about 10m up, but all I could see before that were rivets, and I couldn't even see the first one.
I still felt sketch from the gully and felt like I'd maxed out my risk meter for the day. Nick said it was cool, because following was harder anyways and I should probably practice it more.
He set off and after a scary start on a dowel which wanted to come out in his hand, he was cruising.
Nick climbing rivets on the first pitch
He led the pitch quite solidly, but because it was so long (50m) it probably took him just over an hour. I followed it pretty quick up till the first lower out, where it took me awhile to realize my ushba backup wasn't working out so great.
As soon as i ditched it and put on my grigri things got a lot easier, but the pitch still took me about an hour to follow. I probably spent 20 of that at the lowerout figuring out my dumb mistake.
It took me awhile to get settled at the belay as Nick racked up for p2. I couldn't figure out how to get comfortable in the belay seat? :) duh.
Nick taking off on p2
Just like that he was off, and i was left alone, sitting in the sky...
yes, that's my finger...
I ate my sandwich and listened to nick curse at sh!tty copperheads. Then i took another picture, and realized I had some texts so I replied to Luke. I had customized my case the night previous to include a clip in loop, for just such shenanigans while on belay.
It was such a beautiful day.
Nick was making good progress.
Until he got to the first dyke however where he couldn't find the hook move for the life of him. He spent quite a while looking for anything that would stick, but the hook just kept skating off everything he tried.
Finally he gave up, and I lowered him back to the belay. Nick asked if i'd like to go up there and check it out, but I declined the offer.
We rapped back to the start, not knowing where the rappel anchor was and not liking the look of the trees below it we would have to rap through, we elected to go back to the starting ledge.
On the way down, the rope snaked through the flake and while it looked really cool, i soon realized when it didn't want to pull out how lame it was. I worked the rope and pulled both strands alternately and eventually I managed to free the snag.
I made it down to the ledge and the rope pulled without incident. I was not fond of going back down the fixed rope, but there was another old petzl rope, just sitting there in a coil weathering away. So i fixed it in the gully and that way i had two strands to rap on the way down instead of just one.
Nick coming down the gully
I'm hoping we get a chance to go back sometime soon!
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Sanskara
climber
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Apr 17, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 17, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
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Nice Mike! Did u notice if there was draws fixed on Eurasian eyes??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:12am PT
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You could kind of see it through the trees and there were climbers on it so i couldn't tell.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:41am PT
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Thanks Jim! i would love to get out on a wall for a night of anyone wants to do a grade 5?
Matt, no i don't but there are a few individuals here that could fulfill your request. I thought cragging was not your style? Lol
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 18, 2014 - 02:04am PT
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No sir. It's too far of a walk, I'd need Sherpas & a basecamp.
Probably about 20 sherpas would do so I could do the worlds biggest shoulder stand & climb the last few 5.11 moves to the chains.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 18, 2014 - 11:36am PT
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munge like! munge like!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 11:50am PT
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Munge like choss or granite? Or both
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MH2
climber
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Apr 18, 2014 - 11:54am PT
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Great TR, Mike. Close as I ever expect to get to Wrist Twister.
On the choss front, looks like there might recently have been a pillar here:
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Or was...
Andy you've done cerebrus no? That's pretty close!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:26pm PT
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Let's go Bruce! ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 18, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
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"Aid climbing = Hangdog X 1000" -Anonymous Vandal
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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Where did you find that gem, Luke?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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But when the game goes 15 innings, the most efficent team wins.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
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Thanks for the locks Daryl!! ;)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 18, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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And before the limestone sub-thread gets too deeply buried, here's another one from northwest of Clinton. Robin Barley's been doing some routes in the area recently.
Culbert and I did the front side, in shadow. Robin is doing stuff on the other side.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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Cooool! Thanks Glenn!
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Relic
Social climber
Weenie
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:50pm PT
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Took some towels with us to pebbles today. Dryed and cleaned off a seldom climbed line in the Darkside.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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Tricouni, how was the access and the quality of rock? I meant to get up there last year but never got around to it. Was that photo off Jesmond road ? Native land or crown?
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