Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Lets get this thread back where it belongs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 08:18am PT
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Morning bump.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Feb 10, 2013 - 08:20am PT
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you be getting at er today? see you there!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:11am PT
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Guesses about the route pic at the top of this page?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 10:20am PT
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BK- yup!
Ghost it's vagina er I mean cobra crack ;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Obviously too easy.
So, who is the climber?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Hard to tell from the back. With the hair I'm guessing its Didier? Interestingly Wiki says he quit climbing after first ascent?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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Not Didier. And he did not make the first ascent. But yes, I did hear that he'd given up climbing -- I think he entered a monastery. Or some kind of religious withdrawal.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 10:47am PT
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No the movie first ascent which documented his attempts on cobra. After a bit of googling it looks like Nicolas Favresse?
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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I bet that is Sandford. He was the first real talent to give it an honest go.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:07am PT
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Fred Sanford?
"Don't you know your guzintas, Fred? Two guzinta four, three guzinta six."
"Yeah, and five guzinta yo lip, Grady!"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:09am PT
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It's Nico. A friend and I were up there on Boogie Till You Puke a few years ago (okay, Erik was on BTYP, I was providing a manly belay). We'd seen a rope hanging out from the cliff top, redirected through a sling to a tree, so it hung well out from Cobra Crack and didn't know what it was for.
Then three guys showed up. One jugged up the rope with a video camera, the other two roped up and one of them started climbing Cobra Crack. He didn't get it. He could do all the moves, placing pro on lead, but he couldn't link it all up. What was really impressive was that he didn't seem maxed out. No screaming, no thrashing, just amazingly smooth. The climb was a bit too hard for him, but not by much. When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.
Nice guy, too. Real quiet and friendly.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 11:44am PT
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Nice Ghost. That sling is still there!! Gave me a few ideas, although I haven't had the opportunity to try them yet. That thing looks rediculous when you stand at the base of it! :)
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Feb 10, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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I stood at the base of CC last summer and realized that the people that can climb it are a different species from me.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.
Yeah, pretty amazing. One day, back in the dark ages, we were toproping a bunch of hard routes around on the NE and N sides of Siwash Rock. Some kid, 15, as it turned out, came along and hiked up the regular (south, "Slippery Slab") route on the rock. Downclimbed the thing and stood around chatting. We tossed him a rope, and he waltzed up some of the hardest routes on the north sides that we'd been struggling with.
We tried to get him interested in going to Squamish with us that weekend, but he just wasn't interested. But talk about talent...
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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Feb 10, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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Jesus, Glenn, that must have been around 1962 :-D Who the sam hill was the 15 year old ? A great grampa now, eh? Hee hee hee...........
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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Yeah, Tami, 1963 or 1964. Guy's name was Sommerville or Sommerfield, or something similar. Not Sanford, or Smaill.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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Nice story Glenn! Thanks! When me Ryand and Kieran were on ypls, I looked down and saw Marc Andre soloing up behind us to recon Milk Road. He turned around at the aid move in the traverse over to the base of Milk Run, but it was still pretty impressive!
Watching him solo crime of the century was pretty cool too.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 12, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Hey Hamie! Me n' Kieran did this one today. I was happy to see when i got home & looked in my instruction manual that it was one of your routes. My first aid lead too, although you probably didn't have 75 cams like i did :-) Did you name it?
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