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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
BK- yup!

Ghost it's vagina er I mean cobra crack ;)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Obviously too easy.

So, who is the climber?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Hard to tell from the back. With the hair I'm guessing its Didier? Interestingly Wiki says he quit climbing after first ascent?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
Not Didier. And he did not make the first ascent. But yes, I did hear that he'd given up climbing -- I think he entered a monastery. Or some kind of religious withdrawal.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
No the movie first ascent which documented his attempts on cobra. After a bit of googling it looks like Nicolas Favresse?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
I bet that is Sandford. He was the first real talent to give it an honest go.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 10, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
Fred Sanford?

"Don't you know your guzintas, Fred? Two guzinta four, three guzinta six."

"Yeah, and five guzinta yo lip, Grady!"
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
It's Nico. A friend and I were up there on Boogie Till You Puke a few years ago (okay, Erik was on BTYP, I was providing a manly belay). We'd seen a rope hanging out from the cliff top, redirected through a sling to a tree, so it hung well out from Cobra Crack and didn't know what it was for.

Then three guys showed up. One jugged up the rope with a video camera, the other two roped up and one of them started climbing Cobra Crack. He didn't get it. He could do all the moves, placing pro on lead, but he couldn't link it all up. What was really impressive was that he didn't seem maxed out. No screaming, no thrashing, just amazingly smooth. The climb was a bit too hard for him, but not by much. When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.

Nice guy, too. Real quiet and friendly.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Nice Ghost. That sling is still there!! Gave me a few ideas, although I haven't had the opportunity to try them yet. That thing looks rediculous when you stand at the base of it! :)
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 10, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
I stood at the base of CC last summer and realized that the people that can climb it are a different species from me.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
When I found out later that it was 14-something I couldn't believe what I'd seen that day.

Yeah, pretty amazing. One day, back in the dark ages, we were toproping a bunch of hard routes around on the NE and N sides of Siwash Rock. Some kid, 15, as it turned out, came along and hiked up the regular (south, "Slippery Slab") route on the rock. Downclimbed the thing and stood around chatting. We tossed him a rope, and he waltzed up some of the hardest routes on the north sides that we'd been struggling with.

We tried to get him interested in going to Squamish with us that weekend, but he just wasn't interested. But talk about talent...
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Jesus, Glenn, that must have been around 1962 :-D Who the sam hill was the 15 year old ? A great grampa now, eh? Hee hee hee...........


Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 11, 2013 - 12:30am PT
Yeah, Tami, 1963 or 1964. Guy's name was Sommerville or Sommerfield, or something similar. Not Sanford, or Smaill.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:00am PT
Nice story Glenn! Thanks! When me Ryand and Kieran were on ypls, I looked down and saw Marc Andre soloing up behind us to recon Milk Road. He turned around at the aid move in the traverse over to the base of Milk Run, but it was still pretty impressive!

Watching him solo crime of the century was pretty cool too.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:38am PT
Credit: RyanD

Hey Hamie! Me n' Kieran did this one today. I was happy to see when i got home & looked in my instruction manual that it was one of your routes. My first aid lead too, although you probably didn't have 75 cams like i did :-) Did you name it?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 02:57am PT
Bump for Hamie! Check out the last message on the last page!
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:49am PT
Ooooohhhh, The Terror! I had dreams of cleaning and attempting to climb that thing years ago. They were thwarted by some old-time locals telling me that Peter C had done it many years before and never bothered to even report it.
Great rainy solo-aid route though!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 14, 2013 - 04:17am PT
Scrubber i think someone has been working it recently or did it because there's a shiny new fixe anchor under the roof & at the finish. Pretty clean as well.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 14, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
A new bolt appeared at the end of the roof too, to allow you to climb to the top without your rope pinching under at the corner. Obviously not needed for solo-aid, but pretty crucial if leading free.

K
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 14, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Oh interesting, the free bolt u speak of was not there the other day?
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