Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Sanskara
climber
|
|
The papers are fine just gotta get them...
I'm a lazy bum about sh#t like that. I'll get em, it's something to do instead of watch old Dukes Of Hazard and I Dream Of Jeannie reruns all day...
Looks like you had the worst day ever!
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
Pretty sure we didn't start before 10 and we were down in time for a snack, a couple beers, and an evening of bouldering.
Last time I climbed the Grand it was a hot mid-summer day, so we started (that is, woke up) at about 6. The sun broke over the rim just as Robert pulled the last move onto Bellygood. So probably less than five hours on the climb. If Robert had been climbing it with someone on his level, it would have taken about 2 hours. Hamish and Peder climbed it five times one day, and that was with a break in the afternoon to let a rain shower pass.
The real secret is just being physically fit and confident.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
|
Nice Dave. That's the truth. Being in good shape really helps.
|
|
TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
|
|
Re: The Sword being sustained - it isn't sustained at the grade, but it's a bit of a head game the whole way through. Two cruxes, the first gives it the 11a, the second is an endurance sprint. For me, the crux of the entire pitch is focusing on the pitch and not the ~600 feet of air below you. My first time I went to lead it we ended up retreating cause it was heady. Now I can go up and enjoy the exposure, which there is plenty of.
As Mike says, it's meat and potatoes..... I don't think there's a tricky move on the entire Grand route. It's in your face the entire time. Very deserving of it's classic status. Hoping to get on it in the next month or so if and when we get a sunny dry stretch if anyone is interested.
|
|
Sanskara
climber
|
|
Well heady in your face, muscly and strong is what I have to bring to the table. If you are looking for finesse and graceful movement all bets are off!. 600 feet of exposure does not really bother me tbh. Well at least once I am moving very little bothers me, fear just tends to fade into nothing.
For me it will probably be the 11A parts that pose the biggest problem. I rarely pull on gear or take hangs unless I am risking getting really really hurt if I don't. Most of the time I just go for and figure out a way to just make it happen and not f*#k up. Plus those falls look stupid clean at least on the pitch we are talking about so chances are I will want to just go for it. My best guess saiz that is easier said than done and I pull on some gear ;(
|
|
Sanskara
climber
|
|
All cylinders firing on a good day if its strong and not technical climbing and I really really want it I might insight an 11A. If not I might take a couple falls then pull on some gear.
Gotta do something about this hoof before it matters anyway. Gotta have my ducks in order with regard to what I am doing though once the hoof is better. Bet your ass it won't be wasting much time on ST...
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
This is a waste of time??
|
|
Sanskara
climber
|
|
Saturday at the grocery store. Completely foreign concept to me. Looks like it's what most do on Saturday though?
No this is a waste of time ;)
|
|
Sanskara
climber
|
|
Bruce you talking to me..
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
|
^^^^^ LOL!!! I'd say the time i've put in here has payed off big time over the past year... The support i've received has been priceless and well worth all the hours spent at the computer.
|
|
Sanskara
climber
|
|
Mike,
If u feel I am compromising your thread please say so..!
Love it would never want to f*#k it up in any way.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
|
Not at all dude. A bump is a bump. I like it when we're on the front page ;)
|
|
Sanskara
climber
|
|
I could bump it with some ice climbing photos from Vermont , NH and NY if you want but I dont think that's what you're looking for.
Even better if I could find a way to pull pics off my a flickr account onto my iPad I could give you all some killer Canadian Rockies pics. Still though I dint think that's what you are looking for either...
I'll just ramble...
|
|
tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
|
|
Sold.
Thanks Mike!
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
No Bruce he just rented out your spare room for a root canal & 6 units of scaling.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
|
Sorry Bruce I needed the dental work!! But seriously if i sold something i want my cut! Lol
Sanskara we try and keep it Squamish related, but road trip photos from Squamish climbers get a pass. Folks around here love mountains so i'm sure they wouldn't mind a few rockies photos, but maybe it would be good threadbait to start a rockies thread?
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
Yes Sanskara, start a Rockies thread. Let's keep Squamish as free of choss as possible :-)
|
|
tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
|
|
no! I'm sold on Squamish. Your condo is too expensive anyway and the gunfire stories aren't attractive either!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 09:48pm PT
|
Lol Tooth, you're welcome. I should start charging council a recruiting fee! Lol
|
|
Sanskara
climber
|
|
Will do but all my pictures are trapped..
One group on a fried I Mac the others on a friends Flickr account I have no idea how to get the pictures of of...
Anyone know how to do that. That being take pictures off a Flickr account and put them in my photos on say my iPad.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!