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Messages 5321 - 5340 of total 7717 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 3, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Does anyone know anything about the aid route 5m to the right of Creepshow on the Cacodemon?

Campbell guide 1985 didn't have it listed. I have it drawn in in pencil with a question mark in mine from the 90s. Ask Maddaloni - he will probably know.
brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Feb 3, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
Credit: brownie

ryanD is stoked he has aids



RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 3, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
Yep, its true- I always thought I'd get them from Luke but at least he came to watch.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
Hahaha! Sweet!

Fixed gear bump! Thanks for the PM Scrubber! I'm gonna kill me some staples this year ;)

Danny G

climber
Squamish, BC
Feb 4, 2013 - 12:46am PT
I found 2 cams on my rack that don't belong to me. Climbed at Penny Lane on Saturday Feb 2. Describe them and I can get them back to you.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:21am PT
Well, .... there's two of them, uh.... they have curvy wiggly things on top, and uh... when you pull the little bar down all the curvy things move at the same time. And oh yeah! the webbing on them is different colours. They must be mine. :)

K
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 5, 2013 - 12:24am PT
I'm gonna kill me some staples this year ;)

Big Mike to you mean the kind that show up in the playmate's stomach?
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 6, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
Hey Luke, speaking of obscure aid routes, did you ever get around to doing Amphitheatre on the Apron? Or is it on the agenda for this summer?
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Feb 6, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Hmm, what is this "Amphitheatre" of which you speak....
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 6, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Hmm, what is this "Amphitheatre" of which you speak...
Ancient, long neglected aid route left of Snake. No doubt would go free today, with some work.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 6, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Aid route on the Apron? Now that's interesting.

I imagine someone aiding Banana Peel. The hook he's on pops and...

...and he lies there on the low-angle slab for a while, then stands up, ditches the aiders, and walks up to the top.

But Amphitheater? Have to go look that one up. (Although climbing it at this time of year would probably be more like amphibian theater.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 6, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
Whoo Hoo! Found it. In the Holy Word of Gordie Smaill, Book of Apron, Page 74, Paragraph 2:

Amphitheatre
first ascent: Tony Ellis and Glenn Woodsworth 1965
time: four hours
5.3 A2
Arrive on the Stage via Gringo a-go-go or Snake. Start off the left side and free to the overhangs above. Nail the leaning corner above to a hanging station on steep slabs. Work up and right to the final overhanging corner. Hammer up it to easy slabs above.
equipment: Knife blades up to one inch.

Can't believe I never tried it.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 6, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
iirc Amphitheatre isn't much different from Gringo-a-Gogo, at least at the old aid crux.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Feb 7, 2013 - 01:15am PT
Amphitheatre and Gringo are entirely separate lines. They cross each other, but otherwise are completely different. Both are very old school. No power drill rap bolting on either route. No wussy cleaning either! :)
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:34am PT
No power drill rap bolting on either route. No wussy cleaning either

And no bolts on either route! Go for them, Ghost!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:58am PT
Lets get this thread back where it belongs.

This is the easy part
This is the easy part
Credit: Ghost
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 03:09am PT
Absolutely right Dave. Sorry for my slackness lately. I've been getting caught up in the void of the taco when I have much more important things I could be doing.


How about a little photo essay?

Kyle is very happy to clip the first bolt on "Over Fourty"




Toque was gone by the second bolt so you know he's serious.








Going for some powder courage





No RP this time!





Getting back on the horse





Ummm where is the next bolt?





Oh there it is. Way up there?!





Still not there yet?




Please let me clip this bolt!




Damn that was far!




That has to be at least a 16 foot runout.






Getting to the anchor isn't trivial either...









Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 11:18am PT
Morning bump.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:20am PT
you be getting at er today? see you there!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
Guesses about the route pic at the top of this page?
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