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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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It's in the bottom left of the image you can't see Tami.
Sanskara, it's called mercy street, 10b. If you wanna climb it, come after a good hot spell or it will be wet.
So gripped pulled my image.
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Sanskara
climber
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Mike,
10b that's it! Stoked its on then!
I will be trying to get in touch with you for a conditions report. Maybe for a partner also as so few can just drop everything to go do some climb the way I can. Kinda kidding but not about the conditions report part.
I had a trip planned late summer or this fall but my partners summer long road trip turned into two short out and back via airplane trips.
I know there is tons of great climbing in Squamish. Is there one Sunshine Crack or something looks quite a bit like that one but maybe harder?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2014 - 11:39pm PT
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Here is my original image.
Some stoke for Sanskara
Mercy Street
Dude! I'm down. I want to hit this sucker again too, but not sure if i'll be up to leading it again summer. Maybe.
I think you're thinking about daylight crack on freeway?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
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Ok. First of all I must apologize. Tooth asked for Photos and Stories not drama and butthurt. lol
So, to atone, I went climbing this week and managed to get 19 pitches in over 3 days, which is pretty good for me lately.. lol
On Monday I showed up late and joined the party already in progress at of all locations, High Cliff.
Kyle was bored of waiting for Lord of the Drink so he soloed Step n' Stump 5.7
When he finally did get on it, he didn't do so well. I jumped on the gift and it felt super good to lead it again.
After we went around the corner and Jay and Richie showed up to have a go at Red Nails.
The scene at High Cliff
Jay trying to figure out the opening sequence on Red Nails 11c
Kyle had a score to settle with Fred Snails so he roped up for it. The top could use a bit of a scrub. lol
Kyle starting up Fred Snails 11a
Jay did pretty good after the crux on Red Nails
I flailed up the crux of Fred Snails, and then we did Miner Matters 10b and Run Like A Thief 10a neither of which i managed clean.
On the way back to the truck I could hardly resist capturing this sight.
We headed up to the top of Neat and Cool for some after hours bouldering with Ryan before heading home.
The insatiable Kyle on a dusk ascent of the Neat and Cool boulders
Howe sound at it's finest
Tuesday I had no partner. So i decided to make lemonade out of the lemons and went to burgers to practice my lower-outs. I toproped Peaches and Cream which still eludes me and then burgers in my approach shoes a couple times because it was the only climb free. I did a few lowerout jug practices on it after.
Dusty eyes finally freed up, and i solo aided it with my trusty partner grigri. Everything was mellow on it until the very end where i forgot to clip my rope to the last piece of pro and i was looking at an interesting fall with just enough slack before the clove hitch to make the move and disengage the cam to gain leeway to make the mantle in my camp four's.. lol
following was a breeze in comparison.
After I saw Bearbreeder in the parking lot and we arranged to hook up for some of this on Wednesday:
Eric Chan Photo
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Sanskara
climber
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Thanks for the stoke Mike,
Yeah sunshine crack is in the Bugs I think right?
Should probably go do that too!
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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There you go Sanskara! The Sword/split piller is as good as a die-he-dral gets!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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Yes they are.
Luke on the Split Pillar
Luke on the sword
Which btw, it is very nice to hear the kid's voice again here. Keep posting up Kyle's pics bro! Too bad he chooses not to participate here. comeon kyle i know you're reading this! lol
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Sanskara
climber
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That's the climb.
Is it legit 11a sustained? Give me the local beta.
Thanks for the pics.
If i get my sh#t together I could get that 10b climb done this season even after the fractured calcaneus. Might have to wait till next season for the grand wall, who knows though I did f*#k this hoof up on my first day out of the season on a mid 11...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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It's cruxy. super pumpy towards the top. The grand is meat and potatoes climbing, just a lot of it for a long time.
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Sanskara
climber
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How long does it take on average for a competent 5.11 leader to get up it...
Is it outa question for someone that is a competent 5.10 leader throughout the letter grades and can lead 5.11 gear but its work?
I'm good at strong guy climbing not so much über technical slabby sh#t. In shape I can climb up into the 10D range on New England slab with maybe one or two falls? I can get 10b-c slab normally on sight. Juggy muscle climbs of the same grade I can normally on sight
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
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Sounds like it's right up your alley. Me (10d leader max) and another 5.11- climber did it last spring in 4.5-5 hours around? that's if you get off at bellygood ledge.
I was gassed by the last pitch, the sail flake, and fell off after i removed the last piece. Ended up dangling there so i prussiked up the rope to the next piece. lol
Lots of sustained crack climbing. you'll love it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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7000!!! wooohoo!
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Sanskara
climber
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You snagged it, nice!
Me and you are probably similar then as far as climbing ability.
I stated what I can do on gear above but in all honest 10D at the Gunks can kick my ass on the sharp end. In Nh for some reason I can do that but its work and full commitment.
Sport I can on sight 11A normally and then work 12's although I really only get a handful of 12's under my belt a season and they are normally gym and sport routes. Actually they are always gym and sport routes...
Whatever I am climbing that flake!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
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LoL ya we would have been on par. I suffered a major setback last year tho so right now i'm lucky to climb 10b.. lol i'm working on it though. by the time your heel is good i'll be ready.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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When I did it we got stuck behind a slow party. I led the Split Pillar straight in, sussing each piece, like a man... my partner had done it 10 or so times and claims he liebacks the whole thing, blindly stuffing 3-4 blue cameltwats in for pro... "it is 5.11, no way I'm going to fall." I was wedging all kinds of body parts by the time I got to the top and resisted liebacking on moral grounds.
He aided through some bolts at the top of the pillar, assuring me it sucked to climb, then gave me Perry's. We finished on the Black Dike (a bit heady).
Pretty sure we didn't start before 10 and we were down in time for a snack, a couple beers, and an evening of bouldering.
Squshami is awesome! I mean... it really sucks and nobody should ever go there.
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Sanskara
climber
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Yeah I have Leto track of your I injury. Being this is my favorite ST thread it was kinda hard to miss.
I just made a profile when I got hurt but I have lurked for at least a couple years?
Had a trip planned out that way late summer, I think I said that already but that has since changed.
I gotta get myself out there and soon thought. I did the whole Rockies ice trip last winter and fell in love. I have a feeling I will feel the same way about Squamish. You all would ne have me, I gotta even get my papers straight to make sure they don't try and turn me around at the border again.
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Sanskara
climber
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Me thanks for the info, I am sure later tonight I will read that like 20 times and store the info away..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 12:40am PT
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lol Wes. Nice story. Thanks. Your friend was right, unless you're fond of 13b slab. Come on back up some time!
Being this is my favorite ST thread it was kinda hard to miss.
Thanks for the compliment. You'll love it up here, hope you sort the papers out.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 01:14am PT
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Wednesday I hooked up with Bearbreeder. Being that it was still a little nippy until the sun came around, we decided to crag at the smoke bluffs a little before heading up the apron.
First we did Flying Circus 10a
Eric Chan Photo
Muscle memory got me through this one although it wasn't pretty.
Then he put up Neat and Cool 10a
Eric Chan Photo
This one kicked my ass. I came off a couple times before grabbing a draw to help me through the move. still need more training.
Next climb up was the Edge 5.9
Eric Chan Photo
I should have wore my edging shoes for this one! My mythos didn't cut it.
With warm-ups we adjourned to the apron to tackle our main objective for the day, Calculus Crack.
Me coming up the second pitch
Eric Chan Photo
I took what i thought was my wallet out of my pocket and left it in the car, but it turned out I actually left my phone in the car and brought my wallet climbing, so no pictures of Eric!
Third pitch was my lead. I love running it out on those amazing jams!
Eric Chan Photo
Eric took the next lead and dispatched it with no trouble, however, for his opening piece just off the belay, he slotted a nut, and clipped it with a single locker. The piece was a couple feet off the belay, just far enough so that i had to step up on to some crappy smears and fight the nut which had of course wedged itself completely sideways in the finger crack directly below my hold.
To make matters worse my nut tool was buried in a clusterfvck of gear so i had to dig through it with one hand while desperately trying to hold on with the other. I managed to get it out and give it a good tap after a couple unintentional attempts at slitting my wrists with the abortion tool.
After that the crux seemed kind of alien, even though i did it again this summer, but i think i was just a little rattled after having to deal with that nut.. lol
Coming up to the notch belay.
Eric Chan Photo
I led the last pitch and dragged Bearbreeder on simul to the tree at the top for the last 20 easy meters. I really didn't want to set up another belay! lol.
Eric wanted to rap down Bad Pants Party and avoid the walk off.
Eric Chan photo
Starting the first rappel
Eric Chan photo
It was another beautiful day out, and nice to get on the chief for a change.
Thanks Eric!!
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