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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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Young blood,
Spankys beta is in Whistler rockclimbs by Kevin M. I wouldn't bring anything besides 12 quickdraws, a gold camalot for the start of sunshine breakfast & a grey camalot for the start of did it with my girlfriend. The gear route(s) have never looked that appealing there to me. Finestone cowboy as Bruce mentions is a great route, there's nothing else like it in the corridor. Bring some endurance & maybe a yellow alien & a green camalot for the start. Even better bring a drill & tune it up :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
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Hey guys!
Ghost- Nice pic and tale of Avalon. That climb has always intrigued me, along with Just Blessed and a few others down in the valley.
Good to see the boys out enjoying themselves on St Paddy's.
Nice to hear from you Justin, I'm headed to Cali in early May, we should hook up!!
David- Always nice to have a new voice here! 16? I wish i was that young when i started climbing!!
Whistler next week eh? Cool. I live up here, and it's pretty sweet up the mountains when conditions are right.
Next week looks pretty snowy, but temps will be ok, probably -1 to -5? Avy conditions will depend on new snow depths but Persistent Weak Layers from early season still lie dormant and can become a real threat with significant loading or warming.
Spanky's wall
Spanky's is pretty much cragging in the sky. Best enjoyed in early winter inversion conditions when T-shirt temperatures are easily accomplished, or late spring before they close Blackcomb. The best way to get there is take the high traverse towards ruby bowl after you climb Spanky's ladder and then either rappel in, (leave your gear up top for the epic sunset shot!) or scramble down the notch just to the left of the cliff.
Looking up the wall at the notch
Kyle on the far left route, Blister in the Sun 5.9
I also disagree with Ryan that the gear route isn't worth climbing. Kyle found it quite engaging.
Then there is the aret, You'll Go Blind 5.9
The next route is a 10c called Did It With My Girlfriend, i don't have a pic of anyone on it, but the rope is on it in my notch pic above.
Me on the far right climb Early Morning Job 5.9
Kyle Koroll Photo
Me getting my gear off the cliff.
Kyle Koroll Photo
Tami you should get off your butt and come climb with us one of these days!!
Nice pics Ryan!! Jealous!!
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DBlack
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Mar 22, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
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Sweet, thanks so much, Mike! That is very useful. Awesome pics too, I'm stoked!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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Thx Mike, Henkel took that pic up at spanky's about 3 years ago during a January inversion. St pattys day was interesting to say the least. 2 dogs in the pic actually Tami, & a bottle too if u look close- but it ain't islay. Just some good ole Catholic Jameson's!
Blistered in the sun! That's what it's called! Such a beautiful climb, what's Sunshine breakfast??
I also disagree with Ryan that the gear route isn't worth climbing. Kyle found it quite engaging.
I should have phrased that better, how's this.
"It has never appealed to me to carry a rack up to the sport crag on top of the ski hill for the one ok crack surrounded by beautifully featured faces & arêtes only to ride all the way down with it on my back at the end of the day :-)"
Same goes for skaha lol!
But remember, unlike you & Kyle I am not, repeat: NOT a trad climber, & I don't want to be either :-) (has anyone ever admitted to that on supertopo before?)
Anyways, here's the OP himself crushing the smoke bluff connection last week, or was it the week before??
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 22, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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Oh & one more then I really gotta get some work done.
Everyone should send out some good vibes to thekidcormier, I think he went under the knife yesterday or today to get his landing gear replaced. Come back strong Luke!!
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MH2
climber
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Mar 22, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Power to the kid.
Thanks for the tour, Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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You're welcome David. Have fun, and be safe! Oh ya, the crack is a 10A and it's called Ski Bum Come
Ryan you SPORT WEENIE!!!!!!!! LOL I will drag you up Slow Pitch one day and you will LOVE IT!! :) this sport weenie has the fattest trad rack I've ever seen someone of that persuasion covet.
Thanks for outing those pics. I know i took my time. It was next on the list. lol oh well..I'm gonna post em again anyways! but in context.
So as Ryan alluded to, him and I accomplished a "Winter" ascent (because it was last week! lol) of "The Smoke Bluff Connection 10a
He of course cruised it unlike any true sport weenie I've ever met. I found mosquito/Phlegmish easier this time.
me on Phlegmish
The diligent manager, taking business calls mid climb.
Jabborwocky 10b? (according to new guide)
It was a gorgeous day.
I managed a clean ascent after a couple falls off the wet, muddy opening footholds.
Ryan monkeying around on Wonderland 5.9
I was doing pretty good on the traverse till i got to the crux and fumbled around with the moves to get across to the slab. I spent way too much time puzzling it out and eventually i just couldn't hang on anymore.
Luckily Ryan had run it out from this point and the rope was directly above me so i didn't swing into the ledge.
I hung there for a bit getting my gas back and Ryan yelled down "Are you ok dude??" "I'm fine" I said, "I just bailed and i'm trying to get back on again!".
Luckily there is a little flake below the crux to haul yourself up on.
Ryan at the top.
After retrieving our shoes, we headed back to his place to have a beer and rotate my tires.
Ryan's neighbors fence is awesome, and his driveway has the sickest view.
Andy- You're welcome. Let's get out soon!!
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MH2
climber
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Mar 22, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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Great addition. High value on low climbs, Mike and Ryan. I will try to be ready when the time comes.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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Good to hear Andy! Hope you are well!
I always thought it was 10a. Just a tough start. Easier if you're tall. Lol
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Mar 22, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
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Early may=shit yeah. You guys are welcome at my house and would love to show you some shuteye. You got my email so let me know Mike.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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Sweet Justin! I'll shoot ya one later
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Sure looks different without all the trees around here!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 23, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
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Ryan you SPORT WEENIE!!!!!!!! LOL
Nope, sorry Mike. I don't wanna be a sport climber either. Just a Squamish climber who likes to climb on all the rocks Squamish has to offer when the conditions are best. Too much fun stuff to do around here to get pigeon holed. Climb everything :-)
Hey I don't think I ever saw that photo of you on early morning job before, that's a great shot. Nice wonderland pics too, my first time ever climbing with socks lol! Thanks for reposting those in context too!
And Jabberwocky @ 10b?! That particular 1978 guidebook author must've liked fluffing egos eh? I've always thought that besides the move off the ground that 5.9 was a fair grade for that one.
Here's a few more that are reposts from the bouldering thread but might as well throw them in the stew here as well.
Hey, on another note- and I may have asked this here before but- Has anyone ever climbed to the top of Anvil island?? Was headed south today & I'm always captivated by it. What's the story there, I heard it's owned by N Van outdoor school or something? Is there public access or anything?
Some nice looking(from the highway) cliffs there as well.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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Ryan, i hope you caught the sarcasm there.. Lol
10b for small people right Tami? ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2014 - 12:48am PT
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Of course Mike, u get out there today??
Thanks for the info Tami, Ha! Love hearing tales of these anonymous adventurers :-)
Thanks for the link too!
Oh & my guidebook/grading comment was more a weak attempt to troll the particular author out of the shadows than anything. Maybe claiming that seasoned in the sun is a soft 5.9 that the last 10' aren't worth climbing would have been a better tactic.....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 01:51am PT
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You mean Ander's Bum? :) it would be nice to hear from MH.
Yeah, Kyle and i got out.
It was busy!! We went down to the Lybia Sucks area so i could lead my first free pitch in over a year!!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Mar 24, 2014 - 09:38am PT
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Yeeeeaaaaahhhhhoooooo Mikey!!!!!
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MH2
climber
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Mar 24, 2014 - 11:04am PT
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OoooooooohYeah!
Maybe I see a Peder Ourom clean-up in that pic.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 24, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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Hey, you see the crack/seam over near the left edge of that pic?
That's the long-lost/long-ignored Rugosite, 10d. Only appears in the Campbell guide iirc.
As fer Anvil Island I hiked up there with a big crew 10 years ago or so. Fun winter day. The rock on the summit's not granite - it's part of the Gambier Formation. I remember seeing some steep, pocketed walls that screamed out for bolted treatment except for the approach.
There are some great sea cliffs on Anvil that you can kayak or canoe to and climb. Mostly Kloochmanesque traversing rather than straight up DWS. Mix of granite and Gambier Fmn.
View west from the summit
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