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Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
"The Dream", a Peder Ourom mega classic three pitch ice route. Looks like we've all been snoozing! That dosn't come in often and it came and went. The Dream is probably the finest ice route that ever forms around here.


Love your story about The Dream Bruce. I hadn't heard it in it's entirety. I've been told we may have inadvertently done the second ascent of it about four winters ago. We were scooped by another faster party approaching A Scottish Tale. In stead of waiting around for them to go up and down, since it's such a shooting gallery gully, we thrashed over to the right to kill some time playing on a little ice streak we'd seen over there on the approach.

After scratching our way up the first pitch to a surprise bolt anchor, we realized it may actually go higher than it originally appeared. The ice was thin and neither of us had climbed in a couple of seasons, so we managed to scare ourselves a bit silly scratching up a corner and chimney with ice not even thich enough to sink a stubby screw into. Luckily we'd brought a few cams and three pins, so each time we were just about to tuck tail and run, we'd get in something decent and talk our selves into checking out the next few metres.

We were both pleasntly surprised to discover what we had actually climbed when we got back down and looked in the guidebook. Later we were told that it may not have seen an ascent since it's FA eight or nine years previous. It rarely comes in, and when it does it's pretty short lived. I'd highly reccommend it if you ever see it form up again.

K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Hamie, awesome!

I enjoyed the bouldering promo which you posted a couple of days ago. Likely it fell mostly on deaf ears!

This isn't true. Nothing here falls on deaf ears. I thoroughly enjoy each and every contribution to this thread. It keeps me coming back and stoked on contributing!!


So thank you to everyone here!!
MH2

climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
Good stories Bruce and Kris.



Hamie,

Did you climb this one? I don't see any no climbing sign.
Or is it the same rock from another side?


brownie

Trad climber
squamish
Jan 27, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Credit: brownie

the kid and I went lookin in our backyard for some tasty lines and found this finger crack, possibly a project for the next generation.

felt like v15 right off the ground..
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 27, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Hamie, thanks! Looks like a killer bouldering trip you guys had BITD, looks like a pretty wild remote place, amazing rocks too! How did you find the change of pace on a pebble trip compared to an expedition style or cragging/wall type climbing trip?
Danny G

climber
Squamish, BC
Jan 27, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Can anyone recommend some short aid climbs (1-3 pitches) to practice nailing on?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 27, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
Re: practice nailing

Dannys seem hasn't had an FA yet, judging by the name it probably takes lots of blades.

go find it and report back


EDIT!

On a slightly more more serious note. There are not really any routes that fit your description. There is not really such thing as practice nailing, but when you must nail things are probably starting to get serious but you should be practicing "nail as little as possible" ethics.

The five easiest walls in Squamish go completely clean.

Routes on the pan wall (son of pan and pan granitic frogman) should provide some stout nailing. But a long ways from what I'd call practise.

Credit: thekidcormier

Edge of pan has gone free so no nailing please.

Lost at sea fits your description fairly well, 3 pitches (off the dance platform) with some nailing on the 2nd and third pitches.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 27, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Heard some creepy news. Six skulls were found in the Grand Wall forest by the stone carving yesterday, kids' skulls. I don't see it in the news yet...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Don't troll dude. For real?
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Jan 27, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Ah, sheeeit. I thought those had all been taken home as souveniers.

A few years ago we found six or seven very real looking styrofoam skulls hidden in a hole between some boulders. It seems like the zombie / vampire flick that had been filmed there the previous week had left some behind. Probably stuffed down there inbetween takes.

They also left a shocking amount of synthetic batting (stuffing) behind that was used to up the amount of "snow" on the ground. Unfortunately it either blended in too well with the existing slush, or they were just lazy with their cleanup, because we could have filled a garbage bag with the scraps. The local squirrels got the best of that deal.

The skulls looked so good that we decorated several boulder top-outs and hollow snags with them for others to enjoy.

K
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 27, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Not trolling. A friend of a friend found them on a dog walk through there. Maybe it will be on the news today. Mountain FM won't report anyhing like that. Might scare the tourons.

One skull was fresher than the others...



RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 27, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
Crazy!! I'm sure there's an explanation of sorts??

I remember a decorative skull of sorts on top of a boulder problem called "the boat" just north of the carving a few years back.

Really creepy sh#t if this is the real deal. It's a pretty busy spot so I'm sure it wouldn't take long for someone to notice. Your friends probably didn't miss the person(s) who left them by much.

Unless of course this is BS?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 27, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
Relic; a fresh skull is a head. Are you SURE they weren't movie props ? That shizz can look pretty freakin' real..............was there police tape around the site ? Cops would be all over that type of thing I would imagine..............unless..........it was like Departure Bay, Nanaimo where dozens of skulls were found but it was an old First Nations midden & it was the anthropologists who were all over it.

I hope to hear this is a false alarm. If not.......where is the reportage?

EDIT : whatta great story if it is plastic movie junk........
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jan 27, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
I hope its fake or something like that. I'm just passing along a text my friend sent me this morning.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 27, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Get BruceMcD maybe it's a new species of Homo floriensis endemic to certain caves below the north walls
Danny G

climber
Squamish, BC
Jan 27, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
Thanks thekid. Pan Wall is a little over my head at the moment. Lost at Sea would be great to combine with an aid route on the Grand Wall. Has it still not seen a 2nd ascent?

thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jan 27, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
The first pitch has seen a second ascent by yours truly. But as far as i know the rest has not.

the three bears are still plannin on hitting it up as soon as we finish zorros.
Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
Yeah, Lost At Sea is totally a practice nailing route. Nice one Luke.

Kieran, did you finish your aid route yet?

hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
RyanD. Our trip was only 2 years ago. I don't think there were bouldering mats BITD. It wasn't all darkside--we did some roped climbing too.:)

MH2. Yes, same rock, opp side. Climbing that would more likely result in boulder crushes climber, instead of the other way around! Interesting that it is caused by the wind, but obvious now that you pointed it out. The wind blows like crazy at night, and the bigger, heavier pieces of gravel etc would erode the base, while the lighter stuff would barely effect the higher sections. You sometimes see the same thing with small sea stacks, which are eroded by sand and waves.

BM. By 'deaf ears' I meant that RyanD was unlikely to make any converts among the OGs who visit this thread. You know who you are!!!:) :) :)
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Ryan almost has this OG ( old gal ! ) converted to bouldering :-)
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