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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Just thought i'd wish everyone a Merry Christmas!
Hmmm must have an image or too I haven't posted yet...
Here's a couple. About a month ago I met up with Kyle and Kieran at Power Windows.
Kyle finishing up the aret of Power Windows 11b/c
Kieran wanted to traverse into it from the corner
A beautiful Remembrance day. Great friction
It looked pretty hard.
Panos are funny sometimes.. ;)
Kieran transferring into the slab
Kyle was kind enough to throw a rope on Quarryman for me and i felt really good on it.
Then I hit up Popeye and the Raven on the way down which went well till the top of the corner where I just wasn't seeing the move. It was nice to be shut down by the rock for a change rather than my body.. ;)
Kyle gave me a key piece of beta, and when i actually chose to apply it, i figured it out pretty quick. ;)
Kieran wanted to see if Teenage Girls do in fact blow gorbies. ;)
Kieran starting up Teenage Girls Don't Blow Gorbies, 11c?
Gaining the upper aret.
Merry Christmas!!
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
The 'burbs of Vancouver
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Dec 25, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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Pic #3: the quintessential Squamish shot: the Chief, Howe Sound, and several power lines and trees obstructing the view. Excellent photos Mike!
Hey happy Christmas everybody!
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MH2
climber
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Dec 25, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
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The evolving photo style of Big Mike, the enduring excitement of Squamish, Merry Christmas for sure.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 27, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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Here's a little TR from my trip to Squamish this past August. My first time, and certainly not my last. We're already shopping for plane tickets, and talking to friends who live in Valleycliffe about crashing on their couch!
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MH2
climber
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Dec 27, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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Great TouR, Grippa.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 27, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Sorry guys Power Windows 11B/C ? That's grade creep! Always has been 11A and will always be 11A. Great route with a healthy little runout to the arete but the crux moves are well protected and just 5.11A. I repeated it often and seconded it with Ivan just after Jimmy put it up , 11A period.
When Dale Tale put up TGWBG there was an intermediate belay that Robin B chopped years later, that belay avoided a hard ledge fall if you blew the crux. Someone should go back and replace it.
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Rolfr
Social climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Dec 27, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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Bruce if it was in JT it just may be!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Dec 27, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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i remember saying something about the traversing alternate start being 11b/c Big Mike mighta gotten them mixed up
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 27, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
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Said Chief on another thread when I asked him if he's done it:
power windows- classic sb featureless wasteland
I've reused the description countless times since :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2013 - 02:46am PT
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evolving style Ya, based on my physical abilities and lately the lack of my rebel which i somehow misplaced on the way home from Yosemite.. I'm in the market for a full frame this time, but i'm finding it quite prohibitively expensive so we'll see if i can swing it. I figure i like to shoot wide, so i might as well get the widest sensor i can get, but 1500 or so for a canon 14mm is a bit much..
Thanks guys!
Nice pix grippa! Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed Squamish!
My bad on Power Windows. I was at home in CR without a reference.. i also didn't climb it that day so i didn't remember the grade.. Sorry! ;)
When Dale Tale put up TGWBG there was an intermediate belay that Robin B chopped years later, that belay avoided a hard ledge fall if you blew the crux. Someone should go back and replace it.
What was the story on the name? Any beta on that? ;)
Robin chopped em eh? Just like the ones he chopped on his new routes at tunnel.. Ahh politics. What a shame.
Edit: Great buddy! You?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2013 - 03:00am PT
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Yank Bump!
Howzit Mike?
Edit- nice touch, grippa.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 28, 2013 - 03:42am PT
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Oh & cool pics grippa! (Edit- and Big Mike!!!!!!!!!)
I remember u saying that u were gonna be up, glad u had fun!
I think teenage girls is gud without the belay, makes a full pitch. Multi pitching on penny lane seems best avoided. Love that climb though, super cool jugs up top! I heard Anders was actually the chopper there?
On that note rolfr,, A new to me climb I did at penny lane recently called grumpy old men had a similar feel as to fall potential/bolt placement relative to cruxes/rests as teenage girls with some wandery climbing & ledgy stances. We did it as a warm up not really knowing what it was & found it to be a cool route with fun, technical climbing & a cool crux up top, & a sandbag for a warmup. What's the story with the name on that one? Was somebody on the FA team havin a rough day??
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 28, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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Thanks guys! Freakin luvvvvvv Squam and environs.Now that we truly ticked the classics I can't wait to visit again, and do some longer stuff along with more obscure routes.
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MH2
climber
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Thanks for the re-post. Has the feel of M. John Harrison's Climberz.
I only fell 10 feet in a swami.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Epic Bruce!
Social facilitation would make a great route name.
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MH2
climber
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Yah! That's why we find it easy to believe in the lemmings.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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On the topic of icey slopes, I recently did my annual ice climb. That is, if you can accept that top-roping some 3/4 ice really qualifies as ice climbing. As usual I ignored all previous experiences and carefully made resolutions, and ventured out to Paradice [sic] with my friend Kyle R. My main function was to act as Kyle's belayer, while he did laps--he is still young enough to actually enjoy this stuff. One lap was more than enough for me. The ice was getting punky, and the local ice season is likely over already.
As I have said many times before, "Being tired, cold and scared is not nearly as much fun as it used to be."
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
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Awesome story Bruce!! Glad you came out unscathed!
Nice pics Hamie! Thanks for that!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Great post, Hamie. And Happy New Year to you.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Got your hike on again eh Bruce?
I went down to the bluffs to meet Kyle and Relic and shoot a few frames with my new toy.
14mm on full frame is pretty darn wide!
Kyle hit up a few routes and Relic found out his shoulder was still a bit sore, so ended up just belaying. After a while i got Kyle to fix me a rope and i got some shots of him on Yorkshire gripper.
Kyle on Yorkshire Gripper 11b
I got a few more too but i'm gonna wait till i get home and edit them a bit. I downloaded these two from my camera to my phone.. Technology. Pretty cool sometimes..
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