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Messages 4421 - 4440 of total 8241 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
MH2

climber
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
The flats too wet? I think you know that doesn't happen. Not on such a well-travelled route. Rubber sticks fine on clean wet rock and holds up there are veddy clean.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
I'd be more worried about if they were icy!

Nice to hear from you Hamish! Wow you guys did Angel's in December eh? Hardcore! I bet you guys encountered way more ice than us!

As to mountaineering I do it all the time with a snowboard in hand! Maybe if it was something like this were proposed...

Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:37am PT
Nice photo Hamie, THAT is hardcore.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
Bump for the kid! Gonna send the grand today?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
Its not winter yet. Patience. No Piolet Dor Du Montagne if it isn't calendar winter
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
When does "climbing" calendar winter end Bruce?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
Heading up do to try momentarily.

FYI Bruce you're sponsoring the effort not the success.

Thanks for your contribution.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
I love to go a-wandering
My snowboard in my hand,
And as I ride I always sing
"I love this snowy land!"
Fah do lee
Fah do lah
etc.

Sound of Music, right?
:)

Great opening day at WH2O yesterday. Lots of REAL interior pow.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
Just kidding. Calandar winter is an artificial construct. If waves of spindrift are flowing down the wall I don't suppose it maters what the date is! By the way I'm not a face booker so I'm not sure how to pledge so .... how does 5 bucks a pitch sound?
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
It seems that we need both a correction and a clarification.

Correction. The date on the photo above should read Dec,1961 not 1962. BK was still a cute [?] newborn.

Clarification. Dick and I were climbing the Acrophobes, not the Crest. Although the caption says "Hamie and the Acrophobes", I should have been more specific.

The Upper Crest was not climbed until the following summer, when Les MacDonald made the FA. He was so pumped by his new route that he invited me back the next w/e for the second ascent. Fun, fun.
Several years later I made the third ascent with Roger Marshall, a feisty 'working-class' Brit, who was always great company. Sadly he later died while attempting to solo the north face of Everest.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
It's just a straight donation. I just donated thirty bucks towards the cause. That's 3 bucks for every lead pitch and if he succeeds I will donate another 20 for a total of fifty. If not i expect at least a couple pitches at the gym or cragging somewhere.

Hamie- Yes quite. Except for interspersed with moments of "Oh sh!t I better make this turn or I'm gunna die!" And going exceedingly fast while floating on a giant flowing pillow...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
Wow! Cool story Hamie! Thanks for that!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 8, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Cruised by theChief before work today, in hopes of providing a quick live report & snap a few of Luke's ascent. The wall was desolate, I called Luke to see wtf was going on or if was in need of assistance to drag something up there & his phone was off, I hope u guys haven't been had :-)


Luckily there was some boulderer friends around trying to embrace the blobs with their heels so the 7min trip from the couch was not a total loss as some sort of climbing action was observed.

Edit- Hamie cool history there, cheers!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
Got shut down at mercy me. started up the first 3 bolts of the old bolt ladder and the fourth and fifth bolts were broken. Could have macgyverd a stick clip past the two broken bolts but was scared of the 51 year old bolts and anchor.

Tried out a new system on the first two pitchs;


It worked awesome.

So I'm thinking of heading back up tomorrow with a bolt kit to replace a couple bolts of the baldwin/cooper ladder and the anchors.

What do you guys think? Wasted effort?

Should I cough up the the dough and get a pass to the Grandwall BOuldering Co-op?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
Haha nice Luke, call me in the am if u want a catch to get off the ground, or if u don't feel like hanging out in the wet, cold, lonesome ill be drinkin tea in the boulders all day, climbing with my heels.


As for the gym pass........
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Dec 9, 2012 - 10:43am PT
Seriously no ones going to publicly chime in on the idea of replacing a couple rivets and the station on the Baldwin Cooper, to make it passable?!?

I've privately talked to two anonymous climbers, one who has used the bolt ladder in the past and offered t supply machine head rivets for the effort.

The other climber, who as far as I know has not used said ladder, has informed me that its a bad ideas and I would destroying something of historic value.

I'm going to make some tuning folks. When I get back I hope some of you have spoken up.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 11:19am PT
Something of historic value is in the rock, not on the rock. Pull the bolts and make sure they go to the right people i say. Then the historic route can also be used again!

Edit: 666 left till 5000....
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Dec 9, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
"I hope some of you have spoken up."

Tuning folks? Well it's a tough call, but I have to go with......









1. Ian and Sylvia









2. Joan Baez









3. Pete Seeger








Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 9, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
The Grand Wall bolt ladder is recognized in the park's master plan (or rock climbing strategy) as of historical significance, and not to be tampered with. Replacing missing bolts, preferably in the existing holes with something like the original units, would likely be the way to go. It'll take a few decades to replicate the rusty nail atmosphere, and don't leave hangers on the bolts - it's way more fun to loop parachute cord over them. Nuts on most of the bolts would be OK, but leave about 5% without, and a few bent down a bit for extra cord-looping fun.

The Vancouver Rock Climbing Group at its fundraiser for Habitat for Humanity last night, at Cliffhanger in Vancouver. Last week they were at Cliffhanger in Coquitlam, next week at the Hive, a bouldering gym. They were having fun, and thought the event was going well.
Credit: Mighty Hiker
The guy hanging upside down with the red & white hat on is Joe, the organizer.
'Mo

Big Wall climber
Squamish, BC
Dec 9, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
Hello,

I am responding to your opinion on replacing hardware on the Baldwin Cooper bolt ladder. My opinion is to not do this. I believe that the old ladder is of historical value and I get a kick out of looking at it, I would however find it quite distasteful to see shimmering new hardware on this section of wall.

No one uses the bolt ladder anymore, and I believe you are using it because the thought of using the Merci Me approach is unpalatable: soaking, run out 5.8, by yourself, is an intimidating prospect! Although I think an adept aid climber could navigate past the busted rivets with some sort of cheater stick and I do agree that you shouldn't be hanging yourself and your wall rig off an original anchor, I do think you could bypass this anchor and use another modern anchor on this section of wall with a longer rope and a small pendulum.

It would be different deal if this were a standard pitch on a standard aid route eg (Cannabis Wall)But the Grand Wall has evolved and the use of new bolts on and around it should be considered carefully.
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