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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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I just went to Kris's and grabbed my new toys!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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What the hell u gonna do with those Mike?!?! Lets go put up some sport routes! Apparently someone wAsnt paying attention & sold Luke a badass drill, o jeez!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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I heard that rumor! I was planning to kill some staples but an fa sounds fun too! ;) I heard Henkle has a new zone going?
I also want to kill some of those Barley two link chain anchors.. I hate those things.. Lol!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 27, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Did some one say bolt ladder to no where?
I get 256 bat holes per battery out of this sucker. That there monolith is gonna look like Swiss cheese in no time.
I'm also renting it for $85/day+deposit... If anyone's interested.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Somewhere, somehow there is someone with an oversensitive ethical dilemma that just had a moment(at least) of anguish. I'm not sure why but I am sure it deserves a chuckle. Damn funny.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 01:56am PT
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The rock will be fine.. Lol. "No bolts next to good gear" right? Lol
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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Mike, I inherently trust you. The Kid, I'm not to sure aboat. ;^)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 02:14am PT
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He's good. He likes good pro too. Right Luke?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2013 - 03:08am PT
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We gotta go put a bolt ladder in at chek & write "10b" at the base in chalk before the long weekend, then we can go back Tuesday & collect all the quickdraws.
Seriously tho, that drill looks sweet, & since my dog walking rate is only $170 per walk & $42.50 per feeding I should have a good 5 days on the tab after this weekend so long as Yula doesn't take a poo, those are $100 a piece.
Edit- Wayno, I'm the one u gotta worry "aboat" :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 03:51am PT
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Lol! ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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I was planning to kill some staples
Dave was telling me about those things. Just how many of those things did he put in? Sounds like a worthy project, anyway.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Tons. I gotta find some candidates and talk to Robin to see if he's cool with it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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Are we back on staples again??!
I am pretty sure RB doesn't like anyone chopping his Jingus gear so I wouldn't even ask Mike. Just do it like everyone else does. What r u gonna say to him that he won't be insulted by? This guy has possibly bolted more pitches than anyone in North America so I don't think he is interested in any negative feedback on his methods at this point, although he is a really nice dude to chat with, he is convinced that he is in the right with his tactics. Another thing to remember is that 80% of RB staple routes are zero star ledgy slabs or squeeze jobs between cracks, do u want to waste ur $$$ on replacing hardware on routes that will probably get eaten by moss within the next year or 2 & will never be climbed again??
I think the staple count is pretty low, I haven't seen them for awhile except a few in the bluffs.
A better proj may be, as u said, changing some of his garbage rap stations, which are everywhere. The entire Squaw/Klootch buttress is covered in em as well as some apron routes & the malamute.
Edit- I'd be happy to help with replacements, just let me know.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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That's kinda what i figured Ryan, but i had a couple of people tell me i should talk to him.. Anchor replacements are definitely high on the list.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 27, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
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You should make an attempt to ask or mention the routes you would like to update, thats the respectful thing to do.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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Interesting ethical question here. I was always under the impression that swapping out worn anchors or replacing bolts for bolts was fair game.
Didn't Jeremy ask you about adding a new bolt on the Milk Run traverse pitch Tami?
Obviously i'm not proposing anything nefarious here, just curious is all.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 27, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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Talk to Robin. He (probably) won't bite your head off. He doesn't own the routes he put up, but I think it's polite to ask him before ripping out the staples.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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Make sure you stand real close to him to emphasize your height and regrow that beard for god's sake!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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Oh jeeze.. Why do i feel like i'm opening pandora's box... Lol
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MoonGoon
climber
canadistan
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Jun 27, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Huzzah! Sorry folks, I'm going to hijack this thread momentarily out of desperation. I lost my camera in skaha 2 weeks ago and well, there's no skaha thread so here I am. Lost blue panasonic DMC-TS2 Tough camera. Think it was left at Great White june 14th but not 100%. If anyone peeking at this thread is in Skaha and can look at the parking lot message board to see if anyone picked it up I would be endlessly grateful. Post up or PM.
The reward for it's return will be me finally posting some syck Squamish climbing shots to this thread.
Thank you all and Happy climbing
-e
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