Spied this line while working the Gunslinger with Ben Harnden last spring, gave it a light brushing and started attempts.
I put a lot of time in to this last year, falling at the crux many times. Almost sent it a couple times, but my climbing season was shut down for the rest of the year when I fell at the wrong spot breaking bones in my hand.
This year I changed my tactics and spent 6 weeks specifically training for the route. On the first lead go this year I fell early in the crux and ripped the gear, taking a unexpected big fall. Had a few moments of second guessing but decided to give it another go just for sh*t's and giggles, and found myself topping out.
The crux is after the top of the 5.12 corner shared with The Gunslinger. Tiny crimps and huge moves with glassy or no feet. I figure about V11 to the next rest and pro, followed by a bit of a heartbreaker finish. It's safe(ish) to fall early in the crux but falling after is a really bad idea.
Thanks to all whom I wrangled into belaying me.
Here's some rough footage I threw together from last years efforts.
http://youtu.be/B5mlA3YuMtY
J.
Let us know!