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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
I'm considering getting one for route photos in the valley.. I don't really wanna drag the SLR everywhere...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 02:04am PT
Managed to get out today after a quick visit with the family up the new island speedway. I picked up Kieran at the ferry terminal after I got off the ferry and we headed up the old sea to sky with a warning from Nathan about a speed trap at Lions Bay.

The mission of the day was to hit the grand wall and for me red point the Split Pillar. When we passed a cop sitting on the overpass just outside Porteau Cove after the big lights show in Lions Bay. I thought uh oh.. Sure enough there was a black undercover truck with someone pulled over, and a tow truck with a bike on the back, and five minutes down the road a biker walking to Brittania. Brutal.....

When we arrived in the parking lot Nate was waiting for us, he didn't have a partner and Kieran had asked me if he could join. I didn't mind having the extra rope since I didn't get much sleep this weekend and wasn't feeling so hot.

Kyle and Nina were there too and we were scoping out the traffic. We saw one party about to start the pillar, and what looked like a party of three on merci me, but actually turned out to be a third party.

With three parties on it allready it was starting to look like a bit of a gong show. The pillar party was actually moving pretty quick, so we were hopefull that maybe if we delayed a bit by linking Exasperator into Peasants and doing the cruel shoes approach we could kill enough time to have a clear shot at the pillar for my redpoint and then bail so Nate could get a ride back to the city with a buddy of his.

When we got up to the base, there was a party on the flake with a HUGE 60l bag I couldn't believe this chick was climbing the flake with such a large bag on. I asked them if they had intentions on the Grand Wall also and they said "There's three parties ahead of us!". WOW!

To boot there was a party on Exasperator. There was much debate as to try and run up Apron Strings before they got up there or even the flake escape to get to Merci me before they did. That also would have meant being 4th in line and the second party looked to be pretty damn slow.

Kieran said "I just want to climb so we decided to start up Peasants route. I gave Kieran the first lead because I was trying to save energy for the Pillar and to give him a chance at the onsight. He did well on the first pitch and linked it into the second quite easily. He was a little slow on the next pitch and suffered for it at the top. He took a couple good whips at the crux and then got a small nut in high and sent it proper.

He brought us up and Nate took the lead. He linked the next two pitches and it seemed like he flew up to the belay it was so quick. We gave Kieran the last crux pitch and after I sandbagged him with some tall guy beta and he proceded to whip. He figured out it out with the normal person beta shown here (not really hahaha) by Kyle.




It was 3:30 by this point and Nate's ride was supposed to pick him up at 4 plus we would probably have run into the bag lady at the base of the pillar anyways.. So somewhat reluctantly we decided to bail, probably for the best since it was getting pretty darn warm up there by that point...

We did two raps to the base with two 70's (over exasperator and sneak right at the end KNOTS IN ROPE!) and Nathan peaced out. I suggested to Kieran that we try Flex Capacitor 10c, one of Jeremy Frimers new routes. He agreed and we wandered over there after chilling at the base for a bit.

Here's a thread and topo about it, http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3568&hilit=flux+capacitor

Kieran wanted the first pitch 5.9 so I happily agreed to lead the 10c second pitch. It was pretty warm at that point and Kieran almost greased off the first pitch a couple times, as did I.

I left most of the big stuff at the base thinking I could get small gear in between the pods and only took 1 #3 camalot. As soon as I got to the belay I could see that was a bit of a mistake. The really wide stuff at the end has bolts but it would have been really nice to have had a #4 to just plug and go instead of shoving smaller gear into the good fingers.

I gave er a shot anyways and got about halfway before I greased off. It was so hot at that point. I fought another piece in and had to take again get a breather. The sun was just killing me and I had just drank my last sip of water. I managed to get back on it and get to the belay, but I felt like I was going to grease off the whole way.

I lowered to the first Java Jive belay, and as soon as Kieran started climbing the sun went behind the ridge and the cool afternoon Squamish breeze hit my face. With the conditions much more favorable he Tron'd it. (Top Rope On Sight). Dammit... another redpoint I need to go back for! :)

So it's probably a good thing that I didn't get to the pillar, because by the time I did I would have either a: greased off again, or b: Got Nate fired for missing work tomorrow because he couldn't hitch a ride after dark...... ;)
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 9, 2012 - 06:34am PT
That gif is making me dizzy. Oww my brain.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 9, 2012 - 06:56am PT
But if you would have got Nate fired he could go to the valley!
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Oct 9, 2012 - 10:11am PT
I love watching people try to solve that puzzle on the last pitch of Peasant's Route. From the Grand Wall and from Millennium Falcon you can watch them peek around the corner, then reach blindly for the bolt with a draw, then peek around again... Kind of like groping for a light switch in the dark. Strangely enough, once you know how to do it it's usually easier for smaller folks providing they can high step decently.

It was a pleasure to find that exit out of the corner over twelve years ago, and I still enjoy doing it every time. It's one of my favorites to send unsuspecting friends up on. Especially If I can be there to watch!

K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
I fixed the GIF... i think..

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:05am PT
Incredible journey
Incredible journey
Credit: Jeff Patterson-http://pattersonimages.photoshelter.com


Went on an Incredible Journey today, my friend Jeff tried out his remote heli cam!

He usually takes winter photos, see them Here
MH2

climber
Oct 10, 2012 - 08:50am PT
Your friend Jeff takes GREAT photos.


The iPhone can do a good job, too. Technical excellence not required. There is a stitching app that made me jealous of my friend's much smaller and lighter camera, and he emailed it to me from here:




(photo by pazzo)


RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 10, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
MH2 u are correct, he takes some sweet shots for sure & this new remote heli cam is the future IMO- for climbing, snowboarding, skiing & W.H.Y. most serious photogs will be doing it in the next few years, or wishing they were. His setup is really interesting, the heli is guided by a gopro hooked up to a monitor in real time that you watch from the ground. Then he has his big DSLR mounted on the heli with a remote shutter that he hits whenever for stills. Definitely a lot easier than rapping in from the top & pushing yourself away from the wall or setting up a human tripod to get top down/birds eye angles.


I like that pano shot, I have an app called photosynth that does the same but there are a bunch of different ones out there. A bunch of photos on my Last TR I used it, very cool.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 10, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
The tyranny of the top down photo is.... graphically unassailable !

That said, I love the pics shot in the moment, while trying to belay and fiddle a viewfinder view to snap. (this is meant for leaders taking pics of the AWARE belayer as well)

I guess I can't divorce myself from the emotions that are expressed through being there as opposed to being near there.

The super fun stitch app on my phone is called Photosynth and it is a great presentational tool for both work and play.


PS.
RyanD did beat me to promoting Photosynth.
MH2

climber
Oct 10, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
We can perhaps all agree that it is the way the picture makes you feel that is important.

With that out of the way, I think I see an interesting future for the heli cam, and thanks for RyanD for bringing me into that future.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 10, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
Anyone up for a little community service / fence mending here's a project for saturday:

I live in Valleycliffe and every year we have squatters (climbers mainly) who set up camp the entire summer on the south side of the Stawamus River. Every year they leave tons of garbage when they leave. This year there are coolers, plastic bins, pots and pans, tarps and some broken tents, etc. And that is just what I can see from the riverís edge and not walking around the entire site (see photo called Squatter Garbage taken today).

This year we have had more squatters than ever and there is still a big site set up farther up the river but it looks like no one is there but still inhabited (see photo called Squatter 2).

The rain starts on Friday and the river will rise. Eventually all of this garbage will end up in the river and the ocean. Last year was our biggest pink salmon run in decades and the river is full of baby salmon.

Now that I know they are gone, I have arranged for a clean up this Saturday October 13th at 12pm. We are meeting at the trail entrance on Valley Drive. I have asked for volunteers from my neighbours and people around Squamish. I know at the end of the day it will probably just be myself and my husband who end up cleaning it all up but we are willing to do it as we love our rivers and the wildlife here.

Is there anything we can do in the future to prevent these squatters from setting up camp for months on end? Not only do they leave all their garbage, they do all their washing (clothing, dishes, their selves) in the river. They also defecate in the forest (I know because my dog loves to roll in human poop for some bizarre reason). Iíve wanted to storm over there and tell them to leave but what good what that do and how safe would that have been?

Any suggestions would be appreciated for the future and if you know of anyone who may want to take an hour of their day on Saturday that would be great too!

I recieved this via a community group email list. I've left the names out but the message is loud and clear and should be heard
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 10, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
That's so f*#king bad, Bruce. The original idea was always to leave no trace and whatever happened, make sure the parents didn't find out.

Climbers have always been their own worst enemies.
MH2

climber
Oct 10, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
Is that partly about this location, approximately opposite the trail in to Angel's Crest?







Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 10, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
Seems likely. The squatters used to congregate on a sandbar on the Mamquam, up from its confluence with the Squamish. They got evicted by the District a few years ago.

Campers seem dispersed all over the area. Some are discreet enough to go a reasonable distance up logging roads before camping, but some seem to think they're entitled, and camp at the site Bruce mentions, on top of the Malamute, and in other high-impact locations, especially when more than one or two are involved for more than a day or two. Quite unfortunate.

Someone should put the people who Bruce quotes in touch with the Access Society, and maybe they could FaceLift the area. It's possible that it's not just climbers, as there's a long tradition of squatting in the Squamish area. But it seems likely that climbers are involved.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 10, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
could well be, MH2. I'm really not up on the details, but i did see some photos of some abandoned garbage. I know its been going on all season however and i can just imagine the bongo fields throughout the forest. I remember the same deal about ten years ago making the front pages of the local paper. People were pretty pissed.

Dirt bagging is one thing, garbage dumping is something else all together. Like Jim says, "leave no trace".

Anders, good idea. I posted it on Squamton climbers.com and anyone who wants to pitch in , its already scheduled for saturday. Its going to be pissing rain so its as good a time as any!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 10, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
In that spot in MH2s photo I was hiking a few years back & came across an entire community back there, 20' tee pee with a wood stove in it & all! It was a mess, I wonder where they were poo-ing. Camping off the Mamquam FSR & in the spots Anders mentions is lame, not picking up your trash is even lamer.


Jim B- I like butt shots as much as the next guy & agree that they are often the ones where the most emotion are, seeing as the subject is literally & figuratively attached to the photog, but the thing I like about the heli cam is that it will permit views & angles that we have never seen in places where a real heli cam or even some rigging is not possible or practical. I do see the point though of it being like using chalk or sticky rubber, it makes things easier in a way. However, when someone with a keen eye & some solid experience can use it as a way to enhance their craft & have fun as well I see it as a successful tool that can help progression of an art form.
gf

climber
Oct 10, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
Yeah theres' a fine line between sticking it to the man by camping on the queens land but being a good dirtbagging steward vs an out and out skid
Wish i was around i'd come help.

greg
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2012 - 10:32am PT
I agree entirely. If you are gonna camp be low pro about it and leave no trace!

I've been playing a bit with my iPhone this morning to see if I could
Figure out how to post a photo direct to thread and i think I got
It.



Anyone know what this park is?
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:46am PT
Ya. I been really high on hallooseagenics and peed off that dock.
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