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Messages 4021 - 4040 of total 7243 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
Well we don't leave till Friday so not much chance of that... Hackuweather forecast looks promising, but who knows. We do have a car with unlimited miles on it. Maybe we'll go visit cosmic in josh if things turn for the worse... Thanks for the pics, looks awesome!! I have to get you your shoes back sir. I'll send you a pm and try to get it done before we leave.

Andy- What is that climb!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 7, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
not til friday? talk about perfect timing. Like a rat leaving a sinking ship. It actually looks like that little bit of weather will be clear of the valley by then too. Drop the shoes off on your way through and i'll give you some good beta in exchange
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Ya I saw that it looks like it's taking a turn for the worse around here.... I love it when a good plan comes together!

Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Oct 7, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
Anyone here enjoy checking out the waterfalls around Squamish? A mate and I found the Upper Mamquam falls yesterday and they were stunning! I've been looking on the world waterfall database and there are several falls around here there are worth exploring. Some nice ones on the Skookum, Ring Creek etc...
MH2

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
The route in the picture is intended to be the North North Arete. It is hard to be sure that you are on that route until the very last pitch. I'd done it before but that didn't help. However, the description in McLane 2005 mentions a yew tree, which I believe is the tree the rope runs past.

That was the first and last time we felt pretty sure we were on the climb.

We had gone up Parallel Passages to Astro Ledge and met Paul Cordy. When he heard we were planning to do North North Arete, he recommended an alternate finish.

Just above the yew tree we left North North Arete, if that is what we were on, and found the variation Paul had suggested.




(photo courtesy of Andy Traslin)







thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 7, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 7, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
Well it's good to see that MH2 is getting after it still in Squamish, well done sir. Cool photos!


MH2

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.


And p'rhaps even a tank wouldn't save ya from the rebar. New chapters in the Book of Squamish Stories are being written on the North Walls. Or maybe soon there will be condos for sale?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 7, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
How was Parrallel passages Andy??
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
North North eh? haven't ventured up that one yet... Damn did that log ever bounce! It's allways handy to have a chainsaw up there eh ;)? Looks like things are happening on the north walls for sure..
MH2

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 09:03am PT
In the part below Astro Ledge Parallel Passages runs through blasted ground. There is grit and an air of large-scale looseness. Whether from the big rockfall a few years ago or a testament to the huge energy of Paul Cordy, I don't know. I happen to like the battle-zone feel.

Above Astro Ledge, Parallel Passages is a great addition to the North Walls for the 5.10 A0 climber. Has great climbing, a wild feel, and delivers you to the 4th summit.






Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 8, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
Don: Yes, I got the present that you left for me with Tom - he put it in my tent. Thanks!

Glenn: Saw Chris Jones and Alex Bertulis, but not the TYA folk this time.

Andy: Wow! I didn't know you were climbing at Squamish in 1964. How did you deal with the p'terodactyls? Anyway, let me know if you want the original route description for North North Arete - you know you're on route if you go through a "gap" in the arte, with two boulders wedged in, which you sort of chimney around. The second ascent party did the Chlorophyll Variation, and there seem to be others. Staying just left of the 'crest' of the arete is the ticket.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 8, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
Thanks Andy, great photos too as always. Looks like a treat to climb a bunch of 5.10 on the white stuff!
MH2

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
Mighty,

Time is nuanced and hard to decipher on the North North Arete.


Thou sure and firm-set earth,

Hear not my steps, which way they walk, for fear 

Thy very stones prate of my whereabout,

And take the present horror from the time, 

Which now suits with it.








Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 8, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
If you see Eric's lost (1973) Adidas shoe from the FFA, you know you're on route.
MH2

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
^^^^^^^^^

Yes. Very much in the North North Arete beta/route description vein.




edit:


RyanD,

You (and others) should put up more stuff here. I really liked the Planet Caravan/ Liquid Gold/ ... sequence back here -

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1618401&tn=3600
gf

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
MH2 -love the chuffing second shot -pure classic
MH2

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
There is a small story to that, Greg. Tom got to the top of the 5.10 and started up the 12a face. I yelled something at him but he didn't seem to hear. Later, he congratulated me on doing the 12a, which took me completely by surprise since I went straight to aiding the bolts. He read more into my steady progress than he should have. Not only that, he acted on his assumption.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
Hahaha nice.. sandbagged himself! ;)

RyanD,

You (and others) should put up more stuff here. I really liked the Planet Caravan/ Liquid Gold/ ... sequence back here -

+10000
Take more pics bud!! post em up!!

I'm hoping luke is just saving his for winter ;) Apparently he hasn't figured out how he can post his pics from his Ipad yet.. I think i can figure it out bud, and as to your time issue just stick to Squamish Photos and Stories!!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 8, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Glad u guys like my iPhone photos I'll see what I can do.
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