Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 4021 - 4040 of total 8242 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
MH2

climber
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
A hellmutt ain't gonna do much if a log like that thunks ya in the head from a couple hundred meters up.


And p'rhaps even a tank wouldn't save ya from the rebar. New chapters in the Book of Squamish Stories are being written on the North Walls. Or maybe soon there will be condos for sale?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
How was Parrallel passages Andy??
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
North North eh? haven't ventured up that one yet... Damn did that log ever bounce! It's allways handy to have a chainsaw up there eh ;)? Looks like things are happening on the north walls for sure..
MH2

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
In the part below Astro Ledge Parallel Passages runs through blasted ground. There is grit and an air of large-scale looseness. Whether from the big rockfall a few years ago or a testament to the huge energy of Paul Cordy, I don't know. I happen to like the battle-zone feel.

Above Astro Ledge, Parallel Passages is a great addition to the North Walls for the 5.10 A0 climber. Has great climbing, a wild feel, and delivers you to the 4th summit.






Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 8, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
Don: Yes, I got the present that you left for me with Tom - he put it in my tent. Thanks!

Glenn: Saw Chris Jones and Alex Bertulis, but not the TYA folk this time.

Andy: Wow! I didn't know you were climbing at Squamish in 1964. How did you deal with the p'terodactyls? Anyway, let me know if you want the original route description for North North Arete - you know you're on route if you go through a "gap" in the arte, with two boulders wedged in, which you sort of chimney around. The second ascent party did the Chlorophyll Variation, and there seem to be others. Staying just left of the 'crest' of the arete is the ticket.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 8, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
Thanks Andy, great photos too as always. Looks like a treat to climb a bunch of 5.10 on the white stuff!
MH2

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
Mighty,

Time is nuanced and hard to decipher on the North North Arete.


Thou sure and firm-set earth,

Hear not my steps, which way they walk, for fear 

Thy very stones prate of my whereabout,

And take the present horror from the time, 

Which now suits with it.








Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 8, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
If you see Eric's lost (1973) Adidas shoe from the FFA, you know you're on route.
MH2

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
^^^^^^^^^

Yes. Very much in the North North Arete beta/route description vein.




edit:


RyanD,

You (and others) should put up more stuff here. I really liked the Planet Caravan/ Liquid Gold/ ... sequence back here -

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1618401&tn=3600
gf

climber
Oct 8, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
MH2 -love the chuffing second shot -pure classic
MH2

climber
Oct 9, 2012 - 12:01am PT
There is a small story to that, Greg. Tom got to the top of the 5.10 and started up the 12a face. I yelled something at him but he didn't seem to hear. Later, he congratulated me on doing the 12a, which took me completely by surprise since I went straight to aiding the bolts. He read more into my steady progress than he should have. Not only that, he acted on his assumption.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 01:52am PT
Hahaha nice.. sandbagged himself! ;)

RyanD,

You (and others) should put up more stuff here. I really liked the Planet Caravan/ Liquid Gold/ ... sequence back here -

+10000
Take more pics bud!! post em up!!

I'm hoping luke is just saving his for winter ;) Apparently he hasn't figured out how he can post his pics from his Ipad yet.. I think i can figure it out bud, and as to your time issue just stick to Squamish Photos and Stories!!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 9, 2012 - 02:03am PT
Glad u guys like my iPhone photos I'll see what I can do.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 02:11am PT
I'm considering getting one for route photos in the valley.. I don't really wanna drag the SLR everywhere...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 05:04am PT
Managed to get out today after a quick visit with the family up the new island speedway. I picked up Kieran at the ferry terminal after I got off the ferry and we headed up the old sea to sky with a warning from Nathan about a speed trap at Lions Bay.

The mission of the day was to hit the grand wall and for me red point the Split Pillar. When we passed a cop sitting on the overpass just outside Porteau Cove after the big lights show in Lions Bay. I thought uh oh.. Sure enough there was a black undercover truck with someone pulled over, and a tow truck with a bike on the back, and five minutes down the road a biker walking to Brittania. Brutal.....

When we arrived in the parking lot Nate was waiting for us, he didn't have a partner and Kieran had asked me if he could join. I didn't mind having the extra rope since I didn't get much sleep this weekend and wasn't feeling so hot.

Kyle and Nina were there too and we were scoping out the traffic. We saw one party about to start the pillar, and what looked like a party of three on merci me, but actually turned out to be a third party.

With three parties on it allready it was starting to look like a bit of a gong show. The pillar party was actually moving pretty quick, so we were hopefull that maybe if we delayed a bit by linking Exasperator into Peasants and doing the cruel shoes approach we could kill enough time to have a clear shot at the pillar for my redpoint and then bail so Nate could get a ride back to the city with a buddy of his.

When we got up to the base, there was a party on the flake with a HUGE 60l bag I couldn't believe this chick was climbing the flake with such a large bag on. I asked them if they had intentions on the Grand Wall also and they said "There's three parties ahead of us!". WOW!

To boot there was a party on Exasperator. There was much debate as to try and run up Apron Strings before they got up there or even the flake escape to get to Merci me before they did. That also would have meant being 4th in line and the second party looked to be pretty damn slow.

Kieran said "I just want to climb so we decided to start up Peasants route. I gave Kieran the first lead because I was trying to save energy for the Pillar and to give him a chance at the onsight. He did well on the first pitch and linked it into the second quite easily. He was a little slow on the next pitch and suffered for it at the top. He took a couple good whips at the crux and then got a small nut in high and sent it proper.

He brought us up and Nate took the lead. He linked the next two pitches and it seemed like he flew up to the belay it was so quick. We gave Kieran the last crux pitch and after I sandbagged him with some tall guy beta and he proceded to whip. He figured out it out with the normal person beta shown here (not really hahaha) by Kyle.




It was 3:30 by this point and Nate's ride was supposed to pick him up at 4 plus we would probably have run into the bag lady at the base of the pillar anyways.. So somewhat reluctantly we decided to bail, probably for the best since it was getting pretty darn warm up there by that point...

We did two raps to the base with two 70's (over exasperator and sneak right at the end KNOTS IN ROPE!) and Nathan peaced out. I suggested to Kieran that we try Flex Capacitor 10c, one of Jeremy Frimers new routes. He agreed and we wandered over there after chilling at the base for a bit.

Here's a thread and topo about it, http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3568&hilit=flux+capacitor

Kieran wanted the first pitch 5.9 so I happily agreed to lead the 10c second pitch. It was pretty warm at that point and Kieran almost greased off the first pitch a couple times, as did I.

I left most of the big stuff at the base thinking I could get small gear in between the pods and only took 1 #3 camalot. As soon as I got to the belay I could see that was a bit of a mistake. The really wide stuff at the end has bolts but it would have been really nice to have had a #4 to just plug and go instead of shoving smaller gear into the good fingers.

I gave er a shot anyways and got about halfway before I greased off. It was so hot at that point. I fought another piece in and had to take again get a breather. The sun was just killing me and I had just drank my last sip of water. I managed to get back on it and get to the belay, but I felt like I was going to grease off the whole way.

I lowered to the first Java Jive belay, and as soon as Kieran started climbing the sun went behind the ridge and the cool afternoon Squamish breeze hit my face. With the conditions much more favorable he Tron'd it. (Top Rope On Sight). Dammit... another redpoint I need to go back for! :)

So it's probably a good thing that I didn't get to the pillar, because by the time I did I would have either a: greased off again, or b: Got Nate fired for missing work tomorrow because he couldn't hitch a ride after dark...... ;)
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 9, 2012 - 09:34am PT
That gif is making me dizzy. Oww my brain.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Oct 9, 2012 - 09:56am PT
But if you would have got Nate fired he could go to the valley!
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
I love watching people try to solve that puzzle on the last pitch of Peasant's Route. From the Grand Wall and from Millennium Falcon you can watch them peek around the corner, then reach blindly for the bolt with a draw, then peek around again... Kind of like groping for a light switch in the dark. Strangely enough, once you know how to do it it's usually easier for smaller folks providing they can high step decently.

It was a pleasure to find that exit out of the corner over twelve years ago, and I still enjoy doing it every time. It's one of my favorites to send unsuspecting friends up on. Especially If I can be there to watch!

K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
I fixed the GIF... i think..

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:05am PT
Incredible journey
Incredible journey
Credit: Jeff Patterson-http://pattersonimages.photoshelter.com


Went on an Incredible Journey today, my friend Jeff tried out his remote heli cam!

He usually takes winter photos, see them Here
Messages 4021 - 4040 of total 8242 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews