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Messages 3901 - 3920 of total 8030 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 23, 2012 - 02:58am PT
Been away for a few, so I'm a bit behind. As several have already said, Jim B's pic #3 is indeed the Bugs.
L-R. Bill's Pass, Wallace [in the Vowells],Howsers, Pigeon, Bugaboo [centre, in the sun], Snowpatch partially hidden by Marmolata, Brenta and Northpost.

The Vowells also offer great climbing, with a longer approach, but usually less people. CMH sometimes visits Centre Peak, on heliicopter day-trips from Bobbie Burns.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Sep 23, 2012 - 03:15am PT
Here's a pic from Mt. Taurus.
Left side and right front is the Bugs. Back right is the Vowells. Way, way back on the left is Conrad.
Bugaboos and Vowells, BC.
Bugaboos and Vowells, BC.
Credit: hamie
The black rock ridge in the foreground is just a bunch of unnamed crap!
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Sep 23, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
A friend of mine found a climber's pack on hwy. 99, close to Porteau. Contact me and I'll forward the info.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
Hamie- nice work. Thanks.

Hamish- maybe post it on squamish climbing too?
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 23, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
Here's a couple of shots from Flight Simulator's 2nd pitch, 11d fingers. Thanks to a wee epic afterwards, I missed out on the event of the year, the Kid's engagement party.

Entering the corner via some technical moves\

Credit: Fish Boy


Stemming rest, not much respite however...

Credit: Fish Boy

chris155

climber
Sep 23, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
_EDIT: Very cool, Bruce. Who was behind it? North Face? Patagonia? Personal? Did you fly in, or walk in?
You have to love multi-pitch sport routes!_

Nope- Spancered by Christie-images.com :)
I had some owed hrs so made sense to use em up close to home in the Tantalus.
MH2

climber
Sep 23, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
Very cool, Fish Boy. Nice understated images.
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 24, 2012 - 02:34am PT
1st pitch of Flight Simulator, Danny styling it

Credit: Fish Boy

Pulling corner in Supernatural 1st pitch

Credit: Fish Boy

Snake

Credit: Fish Boy

The Black Tusk, up with the Half Dome Cables with "I can't believe non climbers do this"

Credit: Fish Boy
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 03:12am PT
Nice work Fish Boy! Sweet pics. Thanks for that. Wanna get out next weekend??

I saw this on SquamishClimbing.com and thought i would cross post it for Conny since it speaks of our discussion of the route "Dehydrated on Dalwhinnie" on Mt Dione, and addresses several frequent posters here.


Nice to hear you got up there Bruce and Co. If only the whole route was like the first or top 4 pitches. I just got back from a few weeks of travel and came across the discussion here and on SuperTopo.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1618401&tn=3740

It looks like there were a few questions in that discussion that I could possibly clear up. First though, I would like to say thanks to those who support the idea of this route and the others who have abstained from chopping it so far. Ten years ago Jamie and I did a route that was similar in grade to this ground up following dirty crack systems on the west face of the mountain. I’m pretty sure it has not and probably won’t be repeated any time soon.

Extra Bolts

Most of the times I have been up in the Tantalus I have only brought a few pieces of gear, with the goal of climbing moderate routes. The extra bolts on D on D are so that you can still go into the range with the small alpine rack…just bringing an extra half dozen draws, shoes and chalk.
I agree that a lot of the bolts are not needed. In fact due to a tactical error while we were up there we actually did the first ascent of the first 5 pitches ground up with a rack that consisted of two shoulder slings, two cordelettes and a #4 camalot. I also think it would have been pretty easy to pull our ropes and climb the upper face following natural features and protecting it with the gear we brought.

Instead, we bolted the climb so that others could enjoy it. We were looking for a “multipitch 5.10 sport climb”. In true Euro style it ended up at 11b, 10c obl. I too think it might be more aesthetic with less bolts…but I think less people would get on it. We skipped many of the bolts on the FA. Some bolts are there solely as “trail markers”, because we forgot to bring reflective orange diamonds. I agree that I would feel a little vulnerable being up there without any rack other than draws but I guess if things went really sideways and you chopped a rope you could still get off by going down bolt to bolt.

The one thing I do feel bad about is putting an anchor in the middle of the SW buttress route. We spent a few hours at this point hiding from the sun and talked about this anchor at large. We bolted it considering the following:

1. It provides a rap station for all the routes on the face as well as the couloir. If someone comes down the couloir and finds the bergschrund impassable you can now walk out the ledge behind the towers to this anchor and do 3 rappels (60m rope) down around the schrund.
2. Natural rappel anchors are available at this point but two bolts are less unsightly than a mess of tat. IMO!
3. The route up to this point also provides an alternate start to the SW Buttress as well as a bunch of the west face routes when the schrund is impassable.
4. The bolt anchor is in a more user friendly position than the original anchor on the SW Buttress which is at feet level over an edge in boulders or it can be avoided if climbing through.

Please feel free to chop this anchor if you feel it preserves the SW Buttress route…which is a great climb!

Parks
We were conscious of the park and I had looked through the publicly available management strategy before we went up there. The route was, as we could see, outside the park and nowhere was their mention of a power drill ban.
If you wanted you could actually land at the big windscoop just south of the base of the couloir about 15 minutes from the base of the route. This would be no worse than landing at the base of the west face of Dione or the SW flank of Mt Currie as many do every winter. I strongly advise against this as you will likely land on top of someone and ruin their day. The Heli companies are very reluctant to land here anyway because of an old agreement with Parks.

Climbing with boots and crampons
It is a bummer having to bring the boots up the route. We did look around for a rappel option, the best of which looked like the buttress to the south of the couloir. In the end we felt the current rappel route down the Y gully further south on the ridge was the safest option. On the weekend we did it, it was warm enough that two days in a row we did not have to bring up crampons, 5.tennies were fine.

As we had a drill up there we also thought about replacing all the sling and tat rappel station on both the upper part of regular SE Ridge route and the gully descent. After a lot of debate we only added one rap anchor in the middle of the normal rappel line. Contrary to the park mandate we left the ugly tat anchors because we felt that they were a lot easier to see than a pair of bolts and chain…thus a safety issue. Imagine coming down at night as I know many have and missing a set of bolts!

Opinions and comments
Mighty Hiker, one day I will call you when a seat becomes available and invite you on one my of my heli hiking adventures. You really gotta try it! You’ll love it. I’m sure we can get you to pose for the odd photo too. I’m also all for via ferratas and gondolas….it is all about location, location, location. Standing in Squamish or at the Haberl hut you can’t see the bolts on Dione!

I did Infinite Bliss last year and it was brilliant. I only wish there was a walk off. Nobody would ever go to this face if it wasn’t sport bolted (note there are several pitches with no bolts or gear).We spent as much time rappelling the 2500ft face as we did climbing. I have an updated topo of it if anyone is interested.

GF, in 2002(?) on the west face we climbed 6 pitches of rock left of the lower west face couloir, which put us on top of the left (north) fork of the chute. We then followed the buttress straight up. It was about 300m north of your line. On another note , we read in the hut log that Madaloni and company freed the Zwecker/Spagnut variation to your route at 11b a couple of years ago.

Cheers
C


I for one feel that since the FA decided that was the style of climb they would like to put up it should be left alone.

On another note, a friend told me today that he clipped Bruce's bolt on YPLS and then down climbed to enter the chimney.... Hmmm.... He also told me that someone left a present at the first belay and it was none too pleasant.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 24, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
Did your friend happen to find a black toque at the top with a mouse hole in it, cuz that's mine and I want it back..
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
I asked Luke, but no luck. We might have to back up there on a rescue mission. Hey Bruce Kay you interested?
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 24, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
It's booty Luke. Give up all hope.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Luke let's go find it!

Can't post the name for this one so pop quiz, what is it?





Nate on the Beav again..
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 26, 2012 - 10:50pm PT

That solid stem friend could be of cultural significance, I believe it once belonged to the Kindree family, I insist you stop using it immediately and submit it to Anders @ Squamish History And Recovery of Tat Program

A.k.A.


The SHART Pro.

MH2

climber
Sep 26, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
Big Mike,

That looks like a peregrine perch to climber's left.

At least it was before the area was deforested.










edit:

Will Stanhope was in the area, freeing up Cannabis Wall, but the image is mislabeled. That is Lindsay E on Freeway.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 26, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
Sweet pics Andy. Something tells me you're right on the money.

Sorry for picking on you Anders, I get carried away with pointless acronym sometimes...

My intentions were not for you to be the butt of my shitty joke, rather a joke about shitty butts, that just happened to involve you, since you are the history professional
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2012 - 12:46am PT
Andy I do believe you are correct. Cool pics indeed. It is an excellent pitch, as a result of mr Frimers diligent cleaning.

Don't worry, it seems the falcons were the ones who got the last laugh this spring when they took up residence on the 10c corner directly above the flats. They shut down that real estate for 3 months this summer! ;)
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Sep 27, 2012 - 12:47am PT
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 27, 2012 - 12:50am PT
Yeah Mike, I'm up for a climb....
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Sep 27, 2012 - 12:59am PT
Cool look problem Biotch!

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