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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
hmmm... sounds like fun.. yesterday definitely could have been more fun if i was better prepared. i had thick socks on under my rock shoes which worked quite well as my feet weren't really cold until the second to last pitch standing on the damn whale's back!!

GF- fish yanked on a couple pieces at least each of the upper pitches but I managed to free everything until that damn slot on the 10a and all the face nubbins were snow covered. I still almost did it, but whipped and yanked fish out of his comfy belay spot behind the wall. next time i grabbed the gear and got the F off that thing. otherwise it was free with a couple takes on the last two pitches.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 13, 2012 - 01:16am PT
This shite needs to be on the front page bump.
gf

climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:07am PT
hey mike -yeah i didn't want to ask about those moves on the last pitch -kind of figured it would come out in the tale....
nice one though!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 13, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
...and all this time I thought Bigmike and Fishboy were softcock welterweight wankers too light for a solid adventure..

Bump for a badass ascent!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 04:47pm PT


Thank Luke!






gf

climber

Nov 13, 2012 - 05:07am PT
hey mike -yeah i didn't want to ask about those moves on the last pitch -kind of figured it would come out in the tale....
nice one though!



No worries gf. I considered that before I posted it, but for me it's such a small part of this story. The most important thing for me was that we faced adversity and conquered it. I can't remember the last time I wasn't sure we would be able to send one way or another.... Tr coming very soon. I'm hoping tonight!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 13, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
^^^^^^^^^ something to look fwd to readin' after work tonight ! ^^^^^^^
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 13, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
Per ardua ad astra!

(Referring either to the climb, or the report - maybe both.)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
Thanks Anders! That's gold!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
Tell us the frikken story already!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 13, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
I can't remember the last time I wasn't sure we would be able to send one way or another....

Not being sure you'll send is one thing...

Not being sure you'll live is another thing entirely.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Nov 13, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
How about Mikes new avatar.. Frosty, whats the deal with that!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 13, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
Ask Farouk

Edit-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MH2

climber
Nov 13, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
Frosty? I thought it was a teddy bear in formal wear.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 03:19am PT
HaHaHa.... ya... check out my Farouk??????? thread. :)

I saw that at a gig and had to have it as my new avatar.. you like it Ryan?? :)


Not being sure you'll send is one thing...

Not being sure you'll live is another thing entirely.


Exactly and at that point going up seemed the fastest way off. It worked out. Luckily. We knew we were pushing it. It seems pretty silly in retrospect. Skill, Luck and Determination came through for us.

I posted the tale in a TR so it doesn't get lost in the matrix that is squamish photos and stories. Sorry it is so late but i hope you will find that the extra time I spent on it is worth it.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Great-White-North-Angels-Crest-full-conditions-ascent/t11759n.html

bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Nov 14, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
So back in June of this year I climbed my first multi pitch after 15 years on the couch, up this world class 13,000 ft. alpine peak the Yanks call a "crag" for some strange reason ....
Temple Crag 12,982 ft &#40;3,957 m&#41; - Astro Squatch South, Grade V...
Temple Crag 12,982 ft (3,957 m) - Astro Squatch South, Grade V 5.9 - June 15th 2012 BK & bmacd
Credit: bmacd

Things went well in spite of my rusty route finding skilz and my "fresh out of the box" TC Pros from Wilsons Eastside Sports that felt like a pair of alpine roller skates and only a single skinny 7.5 mm 60 meter cord. We established a classic new 2,000' line we called "Erotic Venusian Blind Nubian Princess Dancer" 5.14d R **

I even managed to have Bruce Kay safely back to our bivy site at Second Lake by 2:30 pm, just in time for his afternoon nap.
Second Lake bivy site
Second Lake bivy site
Credit: bmacd

He didn't like getting his picture taken very much
BK over the hill @3:00 pm
BK over the hill @3:00 pm
Credit: bmacd

My first Sierras route and I am hooked now. Many thanks to BK for the adventure !

The next Day BK soloed Cathedral and Matthes Crest. The day following that we climbed the reg route on Fairview Dome in 2.5 hours, after hiking halfway into Mt Conness and then bailing to Tenaya lake for a couple six packs on the beach pre-Fairview.

BK Version 2.0
BK Version 2.0
Credit: bmacd

Over 3,000 feet of rock & nearly 30 miles of hiking in three excellent days for two guys both over 50 years old.
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Nov 14, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
If Bruce had a better pillow he wouldn't be so grumpy.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 14, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
Way to get after it Bruce's, those sierras are good drugs. I've seen that dude who's crying in the sleeping bag around town before. Gonna have to sneak up on him next time:-)


Edit- what temple route u guys do??
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 15, 2012 - 12:45am PT
Team Bruces - and not an Australian in sight!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 15, 2012 - 02:15am PT
Dueling Bruces.

Bada bing bing, bing bing, bing bing bing.

Cousin Blinky says you got a purty mouth.

;^)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2012 - 02:34am PT
Very nice report and photos Bruce!! That look from BK is classic! ;) sounds like you had good fun.
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