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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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Yup. If it were it would be run out as hell!! Pink cliff is a go!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 20, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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Everybody and their dog and their baby was at the Bluffs today.
Pretty soon one of those crag dogs is gonna go all dingo on a baby and there will be a made-for-TV weeper a few years later.
I enjoyed the sunshine and the good sending temps but I enjoyed even more hearing the huge cannonades of ice falling into the gullies on the Chief and echoing and re-echoing across Valleycliffe.
Still not sure but what the mountains might have been a viable option, conditions sound like they were highly variable depending where and how far above treeline you were.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 20, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
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Good thing Anders and Tricouni didnt't go gully climbing today. It was thunderously loud while we were in the north wall boulders. All sorts of falling death chunk sounds eminating from the chief shaking off it's debris.
Beauty day in there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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The ice was coming down today for sure! Loud rumbles did indeed eminate from the chief's walls and the last one around 5:30 or so was quite significant!!
Sunset was pretty sweet..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 02:19am PT
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Ok so who's truck is this! ;)
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 22, 2013 - 11:48am PT
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Where the heck did you find that???
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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Just across the road from hot cherry bend over! In the bluffs.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 22, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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Looks inviting Bruce, nice pics. If your over 50 you should be able to display a handicapped sticker on your sled to avoid the wrath of Khan. Pleasure to meet you the other day.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 22, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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DK and BK in it to win it!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 22, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
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Nice climb you guys !
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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Perhaps all snowmobiles should display a "disabled" sticker.
Be careful what you say Anders, I've got some friends who don't take kindly to talk like that...
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:42am PT
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Hey , I know that truck. Years back I put up a “stellar” 11+ crack and face climb near that truck, another one of my "Nebulous "routes. I gave the honor of naming my fabulous creation to my buddy Ian. He found a golf range ball and old LP record in that tow truck.
He named the route “ Range Ball Record Wrecker”. ...... Never let your friends name your routes!
Some potential for a couple more routes there and a rescrub of RBWR would be great. Bring a chain saw and cut the nasty alder in front of the crag.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 23, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
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Hey BK. Looks like a fun route, although 9 pitches is a bit excessive. That's enough for 3 ice climbs.
With a sled you could access Blue Angel. We always dreamed about getting in there.
Last week Brad and I went to Enterprise, a few kms north of Slocan City.
WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!
The following post contains 'finicky details' and other 'minutiae'. Those averse to either/both should now turn their attention elsewhere.
Ice climbing is far from my favourite activity, and most years I manage to avoid it. Last week my main climbing partner Brad phoned to tell me that Enterprise was "in", and we were going the next day. Brad is 6'4", 155 and a local bouncer who does not understand the word "No".
The approach was brutal, the worst winter approach ever. Criss-crossed windfall followed by a boulder field, both covered in about two feet of loose snow. Oh, and steep too. Contrary to reports, the ice was brittle and the top third was not formed enough to take screws, so we resorted to using a top-rope. How lame is that? Brad did three laps, while one was more than enough for me. There were mushrooms and cauliflowers aplenty, a veritable vegan's feast, with multiple chandeliers providing the ambience. I have always contended that chandeliers should be called celery, to maintain the theme!
Please note that I am wearing a thick sweater and a puffy jacket under my parka, [I have done this activity before], and am not quite as fat as I appear--but close.
Photo by Brad. Sorry, no bad-ass video.
Carry on.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
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Tasteful colour ensemble and eloquent smile.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
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Non-black pants are back in style again so that's worth something.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 24, 2013 - 03:20am PT
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Bruce that looks awesome!
I don't know why you guys mess around on those little pebbles when there's dragons like this to slay.
To answer your question I'd love to slay a dragon like that but have no idea how the hell those ice tool things work! Looks like fun though. And I think you're right, you have no idea why we mess around on those pebbles -but I'd love to show you sometime.
This kind of explains why:
The moves! You can do moves on perfect rock in the boulders that you never could or would dream of doing when your on the rope. You are climbing cruxes all day! This can be useful when you do run across those impossible feeling moves on a rope. & For those of you that think bouldering is not serious, immediately after the above photo was taken Relic realized his safety was at immediate risk- he had not eaten anything for close to 2 hrs. He did the right thing & from his strenuous half mantel position above the pads he stated to us in a low moan "I'm hungry". As his loyal spotters we knew the situation was dire so we stacked up all 9 crashpads & let him know it was safe to drop the 6 feet to the ground. As soon as he hit the deck I administered a gluten free granola bar and we all crossed our fingers, begging him not to die. With each bite his symptoms started to improve luckily & the rest of the group realized how close a call that had been.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:14am PT
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Dire! He'll be harder for it, though.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:51am PT
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Not this Nate. And that last problem looks like fun, what is it?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:55am PT
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I'm just curious, do you guys have a battery powered toaster oven to un-freeze your fingers on that frigid rock. It's the one thing that this body can't handle anymore,it's a recipe for finger injury, at least for this old fart.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:35am PT
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Arguing about bouldering vs alpinism is so last century. In fact, even in the last century some of us had moved to the next level -- a combination of bouldering and alpinism in which the true summit can only be attained by bouldering.
You want proof? Look at this shot of Don Serl, taken just after he surmounted the final boulder...
That last move had to be at least V15+, and that was at a time when the so-called best boulderers in the world were struggling to attain V11
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