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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 16, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
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If ur doing angels crest tonight I'll consider a donation, depending what kind of drugs ur doing of course.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 04:15am PT
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We did a free ascent of the "south" "aręte" which in fact is neither south nor an aręte.
The ascent was assisted by Hal Johnson and Joanne Mcleod endorsed vitamins, fried chicken with jalapeńo and white cheddar dip, as well as marijuana and some accidentally ingested paint fumes...
Kieran rocked a rope harness
I sported the Cadillac of swami belts, the Yates big wall 200!
We led the route in 3 pitches to broadway ledge and 3 pitches across broadway, which was the crux for sure.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 04:34am PT
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Hahahaha!! Awesome!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 17, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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Worthy of the Piolet D'Or for sure.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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Hahaha Nice boys! Does Kierans harness have leg loops?? How was broadway?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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Getting across broadway was hellaa gnar, ice lower outs and dynos.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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That's so funny, good route choice too. That things super fun. You guys didn't consider those easy raps into the gulley, or would that mess with the fun scale too much?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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^HA!
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jan 17, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Great climb, guys! Unca Fred would love it!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Too bad that fixed rope u guys put up there on broadway in the summer got chopped again.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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Ya too bad some one chopped my fixed chain.eh..
brownie has an.awesome video of him sykin up to onsight the crux of the route.while simul climbing and videograhing at the same time. sure hope he posts it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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I think he's a bit busy at the moment...
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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Dont tire him out too much. we got to practice our night climbing some more this evening to hone our skills.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Already all booked up this wwekend.
Any one up for half priced appies this evening at the shady tree?? Then maybe a romp up the SB connection or some head lamp cragging?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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Looks nice this weekend. We'll probably get out both days Anders.
Shoot me a message
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 17, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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Dome it and they will come.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 17, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Sorry to disappoint boys, but South Arete is a Baldwin/Mutch route, 1962. Glad that you enjoyed it. As MH knows, Uncle Fred made the 2nd ascent, and aided up beside a section which Jim and I had done free. He called his 20 foot aid variation "Math Crack", and reported it in either the AAJ, or the CAJ, or maybe both. This was somewhat backwards, as people usually tried to free aid climbs, rather than using aid on free climbs.
See the new Bourdon book P166, attached, or the old Ourom book, not attached!
And it was only 5.4, not 5.9!!!
:) H.
Nice job on Finestone Cowboy. Lookey scarey.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Dome it and they will come.
Hahahahaha.. Jim! They already do come! ;) we don't need more.. ;)
Here's a couple more pics from today.
What route is Kyle on?
I just saw an article claiming climbing in Canada, in winter is limited to plastic and Ice. I call bullish!t!!
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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how did Fred do the second ascent(using the direct variation) in 1959 if the first ascent was done in 1962?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 17, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Sorry Kieran, looks like u guys gotta do tantalus wall before midnight if u want to appease Fred :-) or Angels crest.
Cool shots Mike, is that Movin on over? Or catch me quick?
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