Squamish Photos and Stories

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Messages 1901 - 1920 of total 9014 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
gf

climber
May 3, 2012 - 02:09am PT
May 82 in the Valley, Rob Rohn who had just driven in from Canada, sauntered over to my car in the C4 parking lot with a grin on his face and announced "we should go climbing", "yup" i replied with a grin knowing he was likely thinking of a good project. So a couple days later we went for a climb together, the nose with a comfy C5 bivy. Thanks Rob for a fun session!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
your pics are pretty awesome! i'm heading out there this summer, hoping to learn how to place gear & get up on the chief!

Thanks climberyogi! Ya the chief is cool. Lots of good moderates in the bluffs to train on and on the apron to multipitch on! Western Gold looks like a cool video.

Hamishf- I was quite impressed myself. The first time I got on that pitch I managed to scrap my way to the anchor but just barely. Then I somehow managed to get to the top of the next pitch on tr. But not clean.

This time I almost got it clean but my stupid finger is still bugging me a bit and my foot work wasn't the best but neither was the spitting rain.

Ryand and Tami, thanks for the compliments. Since ya'll liked em so much, maybe a couple more?

Nick on Exasperator. Me in a tree.



Putting in some pro



Stretching it out before the top






gf got any more details to go with that story? sounds like a fun climb!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
I know Andy is thinking.. Hmm he went to the base of the grand, did he take any Java Jive/Teabag Tango pictures??

Yes! and if you weren't, Surprise! :)


The 7 feet, the Hand Jive, and the trouble-with-words thing prompts me to ask about a line in the McLane guide from 2005:

"Make a 7 1/2 foot dyno down into Java Jive (13a)."


I can't see the body language that goes with that.


Teabag Tango on the right, Java Jive on the left.


Close up


Any hardmen in the house? Marc? We should shoot this!
Hoser

climber
vancouver
May 3, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Java Jive p1 is such a great climb, too bad it has that ankle breaker second bolt clip
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
May 3, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
Ya, way to go: such a primo crack. That pic. taken from the tree of Nick leading... that's where I backed off from on my first attempt.
Definitely a little-leaguer.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
How old were you then hamish? I never even attempted it till i knew i was ready.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 3, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
(MH posts obscure and lengthy story here, more or less copied from a Squamish history thread, about early free ascents of Exasperator, including murky climbing and p'terodactyl photos, but none about gondolas. Polite but somewhat muted applause follows.)
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
May 3, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
Great photos Mike, cheers. Look forward to touching rock again with you guys again.

hamish f

Social climber
squamish
May 3, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
I knew I probably wasn't ready so I attempted it anyway. Tender age of 13 I believe.1978.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
Funny mh. :) this would be a good time for a link to said story.

I thought perydactles just followed you everywhere? Thanks for you efforts on the gondola thread. How is the land swap i proposed going? ;)


"I knew I wasn't ready so I tried it anyways."

The mark of a great adventurer. Thank you again for inspiring me not to be so calculated.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 3, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
OK, here's a story. The first time I did Exasperator (the first pitch) was in early 1974, in rain and snow. We kicked steps up about the first third.

The second time was with Eric. He soloed the first pitch, trailing a rope, got to the belay, threaded the rope, and self-lowered. Then I top-roped it. About a week later Eric and Dave cleaned (a bit) and freed the second pitch. (With 50 m ropes, you had to do it in two.) The second pitch then featured two or three helpful shrubberies.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
Fish boy thanks! Weather looks good this weekend! Let's hit er up!

Mh- ya i can see a few shrubberies being helpful for sure! I'd never linked the two till the other day. It is spectacular!
MH2

climber
May 3, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
Nice going, Big Mike, photo-, climb-, and stoke-wise.

I like Java Jive and have been on it several times, though only doing the second pitch twice.

Teabag Tango is beyond my comprehension let alone ability.

The next one over, Miss Led, is a different story. The guide puts it 15m right of Java Jive. FA 1973 by Hugh Burton, Jim Sinclair and Jeannine Caldbeck-in-parentheses; FFA Perry and Hamish in 1982. I started up it thinking 12a might be doable but rapidly regressed to A0. Above the bolts there was an exciting because poorly protected traverse left to a dike. Then the dike, which is God's way of saying, "CLIMB HERE", goes up to a large tree, the same tree we go to on Raindance. After getting you to the dike, the McLane guide says "Mostly bolts." We took that to mean the protection for the dike. We were wrong. There were no bolts on the dike. God must have also said, "NO BOLTS HERE." The "mostly bolts" I guess refers to the climb overall.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 4, 2012 - 01:04am PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#246822
photo not found
Missing photo ID#246823
There are several versions of the first ascent of the route, and its name. IIRC, Gary Brace freed or nearly freed the bottom bolt ladder, c 1975.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 4, 2012 - 01:12am PT
Miss Led was always fun. Well, it was fun before it became a 5.12 free climb. But Andy's comment about the leftward traverse reminded me of hearing from my first Squamish climbing partner that a friend of his had fallen from that traverse and sliced open a butt cheek on one of the bolt hangers below. I remember them being the home-made kind featuring thick aluminum plate bent at a right angle.

As the story went, the slice was serious enough to require stitches. I think the victim's name was Les Priest. Anyone remember him?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 4, 2012 - 01:20am PT
Les Priest was a force of nature to young brains wanting to climb. I remember him as generous in the "yeah, so ?" style of the 70's guy.

He wore a #1 stopper on a leather cord around his neck.

"It saved my life", said Les. Who's gonna argue ?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 4, 2012 - 01:30am PT
Phil, and Len Soet, did what was probably the first clean ascent of University Wall in 1977. Not sure exactly what they did, but that was the story.

Les was a forceful character, IIRC quite active in union/progressive causes. Someone said he'd moved to Smithers at some point.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2012 - 01:32am PT
If I recall correctly It was he who the naked march of the kitchen utensils stemmed past on thier historic assault on diedre.

ok what? do tell :)

Edit: Nice pics btw MH. They have excellent detail.. they could look amazing with the right color correction in photoshop!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 4, 2012 - 02:13am PT
Greg Shannon is another guy who was more than willing to pass the torch.

In high school a bunch of us took a course offered by the FMCBC, a group more noted for stern letterhead than on the ground triumph.

So this class that operated for a few years took a kid from top roping in Cheakamus Canyon to climbing all the way to the top of Mt. Baker in 10 easy lessons. $65.00...

The most memorable part other than D.S. blowing up on the fact that gumby's can't sort ropes on a glacier was the BELAY TEST.

A large rock was tied to a Goldline rope with slack and cast off to be caught by the unaware with a hip belay. Much boot heels dug in while the Hawser chewed a cruel groove through tender hips. WTF ? was met with huge laughter and thumping back slaps at having held the unholdable.

What's this got to do with Greg ? He gleefully set the slack !

( And he did graciously set the tone about safety before all the great gear we enjoy today was available)

All the instruction was volunteer and lent a certain comradery between instructor and student. We were simply climbing and it had alot to do with every one responsible for themselves under one ideal of taking care of each other.

Tami

Social climber
Canada
May 4, 2012 - 02:25am PT
Greg "Bricks" Shannon and his hearse..........

:-)
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