Squamish Photos and Stories

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1421 - 1440 of total 9010 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 4, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
That photo was from last summer and no we did not drive to it. If I recall correctly it was a km or 2 past the blockade.

If you are wondering about the current road conditions last month the final km to the blockade was too deep to 4x4.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 4, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
Bruce - I'll bite that hook ;-)

Don & Peter went up to the W Lion to climb the big gully on the n side & then on up from there. I was living on Hollyburn Ridge at the time in one of Freddy Burfields cabins . When I arrived home from work that day, I found the boys in the cabin by the woodstove consuming Southern Comfort. They shot me a nervous look, like that of a squirrel who just survived sprintin' across eight lanes of the Santa Ana freeway.

Snow conditions had been less than stellar. New snow on top of a frozen crust. Wx conditions that day were insy-outsy. It was clagged in when the incident happened. That's the part I shouldn't talk about ; they knew they were sorta takin' a risk on it.
They had approached up the low angle of the meadows and were walking -fairly close together - over towards the gully when Peter - ahead- said he heard the crack and felt the snow give way beneath him. Both slid.

The slide carried them away from one another but they were mostly able to stay on top. When the snow stopped moving they both started shouting for one another. Peter was behind a little berm of snow and partially buried and said he couldn't hear Don at first. Then they did find one another.

Were very very grateful to be alive.

Called it a day.

Came back to drown terror with Southern Comfort.

It was about Mar 1984.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 4, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
I won't add to this. I've had too many close calls over many years, lost too many friends to avalanches, and there are too many sad memories. Hopefully I did my penance, by teaching introductory avalanche courses for some years, and doing my best to put the fear of god into the students.

Dick Culbert's guide said it best: Avalanches are the #1 killer of climbers and mountaineers in B.C.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 4, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
I read yesterday that in 1963 two English climbers died in an avalanche close to one of the grit-stone areas near Manchester. A deadly avalanche in England! Who'd a thunk?
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Apr 4, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
Just a heads up; a snowboarder was found upside down in a tree well (in bounds) on Blackcomb today. Unresponsive when pulled out and air evac-ed to the hospital. Unfortunately he didn't make it.

Just a reminder that the snow is still very deep in the trees, and riding them alone is not in anyones best interests.

Unfortunately, all too relevant to the current topic of discussion :(
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 4, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
Just a heads up; a snowboarder was found upside down in a tree well

A reminder that it isn't just avalanches that kill us. We step too far out on cornices. We think we can tell which glaciers require a rope and which don't. We think we know which rivers are safe to cross and which are not.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Apr 6, 2012 - 01:15am PT
..... and it appears that I've killed the thread.

In an effort to revive it, and bring it out of the somber atmosphere, allow me to pose the question: What's the history of Freeway? Was it an aid climb before a free climb? When was it first done? I'd like to get at it sometime this season.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Apr 6, 2012 - 01:41am PT
Try not to take any Sig like whippers on it.
Fish Boy

Trad climber
Vancouver
Apr 6, 2012 - 02:11am PT
..and I tweaked my knee today playing at the Duffey when I should have known better...sucks using non releasable tele bindings....
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 6, 2012 - 02:20am PT
What's the history of Freeway? Was it an aid climb before a free climb? When was it first done? I'd like to get at it sometime this season.

Can't help with Freeway, but in the interest of keeping the thread going (it's a great thread) here's a trivia question. What route was tentatively named the "Trans-Continental Nailway" before the first-attempters abandoned it and lost the right to name it? Hint: it had lots of nailing on it back in the mists of time....

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 6, 2012 - 08:59am PT
Hint: it had lots of nailing on it back in the mists of time....

That's not much of a hint. Pretty much everything at Squamish that wasn't on the Apron back in the mists of time had lots of nailing on it.

I think after the obligatory trip up Slab Alley, my second climb was Mushroom. On which I learned to remove pitons. Dozens of them.
gf

climber
Apr 6, 2012 - 09:52am PT
Nails-great name-perhaps an early attempt on what became u wall?

In regard to Freeway-I remember as a 16 yr old looking up at the coloured fabric of tom and robs sleeping bags where they were biving at the truck stop ledge -it all looked very exciting and something I knew I had to figure out so i could begin to partake in similar adventures.
MH2

climber
Apr 6, 2012 - 09:54am PT
A route called Transcontinental Nailway was done in the Gunks in 1961 by Joe Fitschen and Art Gran. It was freed in 1965 by Jim McCarthy and is now sometimes called Freeway.
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Apr 6, 2012 - 10:24am PT
Horrors of Ivan. 5.10 c/d when Peter first put it up.
hamish f

Social climber
squamish
Apr 6, 2012 - 10:28am PT
It would be a "problem" if you popped off on the crux and hit the "boulder" at the base. :)
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Apr 6, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
A route called Transcontinental Nailway was done in the Gunks in 1961 by Joe Fitschen and Art Gran. It was freed in 1965 by Jim McCarthy and is now sometimes called Freeway.

Sometime in late 1960s, somebody (sorry, can't remember) and I started up one of the dihedrals near Western Dihedral. We got, oh, 3 pitches up it. Rain came and we never went back. That was to be TCN. Is it possible that it's now Freeway? (I have trouble keeping the routes there straight in my mind)?

Did anyone ever find any old slings, pins, maybe ropes in that area?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 6, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
Did Tantalus crack last summer & have not been so stoked to onsight a 10a in a while.........a wee bit harder than say the first pitch of exasperator that one is.

An epic pitch.


My guidebook calls wild turkey 11a? Have to check that one out this summer.
MH2

climber
Apr 6, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
I've posted a similar picture before, but here is a look at Tantalus/Yosemite crack.

Also Left Side of Yosemite Pinnacle!






Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 6, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
Yosemite Pinnacle has an atmosphere that precludes it's grade when it comes to offwidth climbing. There is the initial cranking to the top of the blocks off the belay that offers a sense of promise.

After that, you just have to climb.

Personally, I had a youthful agenda to get better at climbing cracks. So setting to as having climbed some 5.9's in the Smoke Bluffs, the guide by Smaill called the right side 5.9. Numerically, all was well...

John Manuel was keen as usual to have an adventure, so he stoically held the rope. Up the slot was like entering the deep end of a swimming pool. the sling at my feet disappeared into an insecure steep granite truth. There was no hubris about on sighting anything, just the repeating brain fact that letting go equaled a sickening big fall to a landing not considered.

The biggest gear was a #4 Friend that was useless. A #2 Friend was eventually stuffed blindly into the back of the flake as it decreased in thickness before ramping over.

It's actually a pinnacle when you get there !

So the top was made. I wrapped around the pointy point and immediately set to some dry heaves. That didn't make things better, so I eventually tied in and asked John if he wanted to follow.

No, said he.

I realized we went too far that day as partners. I bought John a beer after for the stress caused by expecting a belay beyond a day at the park.

EDIT !
It seems I got left and right confused, this story is about the right side. The left side is full value as well.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Apr 6, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
MH2 Nice shot of YPLS. If anyone is heading up there this year, please take a small folding saw, and remove the three scraggly trees which are visible. They are new, and spoil the profile.

Jim. Glad to hear that you enjoyed YPLS so much. Definitely a fun climb.
Messages 1421 - 1440 of total 9010 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews