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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Sep 24, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
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Thanks, Rich, as always. I hope you are collecting your
vignettes, for a book one day.
I don't often disagree with John Gill or Rich, but just for fun
and at my own playful risk I will say the laws of physics were
the same for Kamps. That's why it's all the more impressive, that
he had to climb with the same gravity as we. That ventured, I know
exactly what Gill was saying and agree with him, in the spirit
his comment was intended. Kamps had really fine
footwork. That was his hallmark. Fine footwork meant more than
being able to keep his feet on small holds. It meant balance,
conserving energy, using the feet in ways so that they didn't
get so tired... a hundred other things probably. He had
an amazing sense for setting a foot in the exact right position
and holding it there very still and powerfully. It was
a gift, for sure. He was a genuine
master. I could do things he couldn't, by virtue of my gymnastics
strength, pressing strength, manteling, and so forth. My only
point in mentioning that is to say Kamps was human. In the Needles,
for example, while being one of the best and boldest, Kamps wasn't
able to keep up with Gill. Of course no one could. The beauty of it
is the individuality, the way Kamps painted his own canvas, created
his own world, used what he had, and mastered the subtle elements
of whatever gifts were his. True individuals have so much to offer,
and there were so many of them during the golden age. Kamps also
was a real stickler, in terms of style. He set a bar. Even Royal,
sometimes referred to as the leading light of that age, often
felt Kamps was one of his rivals. It wasn't always such a friendly
rivalry, because I think possibly Royal at times felt even he
was a bit outclassed by Kamps. Well, Royal and Pratt had their own
individual worlds, to name only two people, so in fact
comparisons were and are misguided. But most
of us who knew Kamps were aware of the ways he pushed us...
in terms of style.
sometimes whether we liked it or not.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Sep 29, 2011 - 03:20am PT
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Oh wow, an awesome crux tale indeed!
Yeah, you got my palms sweating and I also love the squirrel. Part of me fears and looks forward to seeing a squirrel, lizard, or marmot misstep out on the mountain.
Maybe that's why I can't stop?
I think I'll wait a bit to pick up golf...
Cheers!
LS
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Sep 29, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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I loved it. A wonderful tale wonderfully told. It really had me tensed to sweating imagining watching a radical rodent rumpling while pebble pinching in a panic.
My antigravity aura was made by the same people who made the Yugo Moosie that is funny.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Sep 29, 2011 - 11:02am PT
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TiffyPoo!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Sep 29, 2011 - 11:06am PT
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Funny how things work out. When I started climbing at Stoney Point Bob was there, always 20 years older than me. He always pushed himself and everyone who climbed with him. For 30 years I followed along behind him, and when he left I actually felt rudderless for a while. Now I am the old guy at Stoney and people look at me the same way. And of course, the one thing I learned from Bob is to always push, so I still do.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 29, 2011 - 11:23am PT
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Wonderful! Thanks!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 29, 2011 - 11:36am PT
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Tiffypoo TFF.
Bob would laugh at that.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Sep 29, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
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Fantastic story, well told. Thanks Rich!
GO
PS - next time I hear some noob say that bolt-protected equals sport climbing, I'll just direct them here. LOL!
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YoungGun
Trad climber
North
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Sep 29, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
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Awesome story. I really enjoyed that! Thanks!!
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 29, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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This is a good one. I love the squirrel foreshadowing!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Another great Rgold story piece.
Thanks!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thanks, Richie. I don't think there's a post you've made that I haven't thoroughly enjoyed.
And thanks John Moosie, too. That statement "My antigravity aura was made by the same people who made the Yugo," not only describes me to a tee, it has already made my day>
John
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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Thanks for the bump Steve. As we begin another year, it's good to remember Bob, one of the country's truly great climbers and a wonderful person.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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I like Cochrane's comment, "Bob Kamps was always in his prime." He was amazing that way, as though he had come from a sector of the galaxy where he was prepared for this, our, world of rock and stone, a master of it come to teach us...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Wonderful shot Pat.
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Nice shot Pat, I climbed with him when he was 63 I can only imagine how he tore it up in 1968. It was an honor to have climbed with him.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Bob wore those klunky old Cortinas, and he knew how to
use them. He didn't use chalk, when I was with him, but
he had vice grips... He would go up a steep slab, such as
the one in the photo just above, behind him, and find all the
holds at a glance. A partner had to look closer, search...
I didn't like that diagonal pitch. I didn't feel well that day,
and it was hard to concentrate, but he led outward and upward,
on really steep, difficult rock. I had the sense when I followed
I might swing 80 or a hundred feet if I came off. It was nice,
though, to have an upper rope on moves he simply walked over.
He knew the route, but I doubt it would have been easier for me
after having done it to do it again.... I was a young teen, in
1960, when I became utterly enamored of Kamps and Rearick and their
Diamond ascent... They were, in a sense, my first real heroes, although
Layton was right there at the time, and a few others.... At that time
I had no idea I would become a friend to both Kamps and Rearick and
climb with them as much as I did. That's the kind of blessing that's
really incomprehensible. How fortunate I was.
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