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Tyrolean21
climber
Axams, Austria
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 21, 2011 - 02:50am PT
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Does anybody know more about the horrible accident on the NW-face two days ago? Any YOSAR-Reports available? In which pitch did it happen?
The climbing comunity here in Tyrol/Austria is shocked - Markus was an excellent and very experienced climber (UIAGM Mountain Guide) and most of all a really, really nice guy!
I hope the other guys of the climbing team (some of them are probably still up on el cap and do not even know about their friend) have a save trip home!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Sep 21, 2011 - 02:57am PT
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Hey Ty, sorry to hear about the loss of your friend.
Tom posted a little bit of information in his El Cap Report, located here: http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-91911
Looks like a block came loose and chopped the rope.
My condolences to his family and friends.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sep 21, 2011 - 02:59am PT
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Very very sorry to hear of this.
Sincere condolences to all his family.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 21, 2011 - 03:13am PT
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Looks like a block came loose and chopped the rope
Ouch, that's pretty much what happened to me only I had 1/3rd of the rope left to hold me. There by the grace...
Condolences
Peace
Karl
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 21, 2011 - 05:40am PT
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hey there say, tyrolean21... say, i am so very sorry for the loss of your dear friend...
my concolences and on-going prayers for you, and his family and friends, as to have to face the future without him, :(
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Sep 21, 2011 - 08:54am PT
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Sept. 19,2011
"In other news: Sad day here …An Austrian climber fell to his death this morning, from the vicinity of the 7th pitch, on Half Dome. When he pulled off a block that cut his rope a foot or so from his tie in knot. YOSAR was soon on the scene and were able to recover the individual. His partner self rescued and was at the base when YOSAR team members arrived. Condolesences to friends and family."
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-91911
So sorry! Condolences to friends and family.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 21, 2011 - 09:09am PT
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Condolences to all his friends and family.
Regards, Brian
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 21, 2011 - 09:33am PT
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Very sad, and scary.
Condolences to the friends and family of Markus.
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YoungGun
Trad climber
North
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Sep 21, 2011 - 09:44am PT
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Tragic accident. Very sorry for the loss of your friend.
Would be interesting to have more details. Doesn't seem clear at this point whether the block coming off was the cause or just a consequence of his fall.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Sep 21, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
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So sad.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Sep 21, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
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It does not matter where you are from. We are all sad for you.
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strangeday
Trad climber
Brea ca.
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Sep 21, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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Very sad news, best wishes to his family and friends...
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 21, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
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oh no... i am so sorry for your loss. i was up there a couple months ago, was amazed at how much loose rock there is. be safe everybody.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 21, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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markus? was he an innsbrucker?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 21, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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So sorry to hear about this.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 21, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
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Very sad news. Condolences to family and friends.
John
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Sep 21, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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This is terribly sad news. I'm so sorry for the suffering of his friends and family.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 21, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
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That he was a fellow guide only underscores how easy it is to become complacent on a well traveled route. Be careful people! Don't just yard on stuff because you see chalk. Check it out!
Tyrolean,
my sincere condolences.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Sep 21, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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This shocks me. On such a trade route? Tragic indeed! Be careful out there.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 21, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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Last Saturday We did Jensen's Jaunt at Tahquitz. A well traveled 5.6. I passed a 50lb or so boulder just sitting there on a ledge with no drama. It's been there as long as I can remember and I've been climbing there for over 40 years.
The leader of a party behind us grabbed it, ended up cradling it and not being able to let go without trundling it.
The outcome was comic, but only circumstance prevented it from turning tragic.
Be careful out there.
Travel lightly!
Condolences.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Sep 22, 2011 - 12:03am PT
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trade route or not, plenty of loose rock on HD, and if someone asked me where to watch out on that route, i'd have said between the 1/3 and 1/2 points, but of course the passing seasons change things too...
edit
sorry to hear about your friend
condolences all around
never take a day (or a friend) for granted
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Sep 22, 2011 - 01:17am PT
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R.I.P.
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Tyrolean21
climber
Axams, Austria
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2011 - 03:16am PT
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Thank you all for your condolences!
I found this Comment at Tom's ElCap Report 9/19/11, postet by an anonymous user:
Sadly I witnessed this from the summit on that Monday morning. I was leaning over the NW visor getting some footage of the valley with my camera when I immediately heard some echoing from falling rocks just below. From what I saw was a rather large boulder, followed by a few other objects--not sure what it was at the time because rock falls are fairly common--but sad to know now that it was a body.
Fortunately there was an off-duty ranger named Kid who had a radio to call in and confirm the incident. A helicopter arrived about an hour after the accident occurred. I had to fill out a witness report with the Ranger. Sad day for Yosemite. Weather was too perfect. Wish the best to his friends and family.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 22, 2011 - 03:18am PT
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gravity sucks
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 22, 2011 - 03:36am PT
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Doesn't seem clear at this point whether the block coming off was the cause ... of his fall. I have some swampland in Florida I'd like to sell you.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 22, 2011 - 05:03am PT
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We recently came within a breath of losing Karl B. to a similar incident - it can happen even if you're being careful - condolences to everyone involved...
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Sep 22, 2011 - 08:13am PT
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My son is heading up that route in a week. I hope he is EXTRA careful.
A few years ago, a party trundled a 300 pound rock down on us, from high up on the NWF. We were very lucky that we were under a slight overhang which saved us. That route is getting loose!
So sorry to hear this news.
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YoungGun
Trad climber
North
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Sep 22, 2011 - 09:06am PT
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@BIOTCH: just mean that it's not clear why the block came off. could take a fall on a piece of gear that dislodges rock, or could pull on it and have it come loose, etc. this as separate from the block cutting the rope.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Sep 22, 2011 - 09:51am PT
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A friend of mine was climbing the chimney on Half Dome some years ago. He set a cam on one side of a flake and threw a hand jam on the other. Luckily, he chose the "right" side, since the huge flake shifted and demolished the cam. Could have been his hand!
Be careful out there...
Josh
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Barple
Boulder climber
San Francisco
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Sep 22, 2011 - 11:54am PT
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I'm very sorry to hear this. I was at the top of Half Dome doing timelapses when I heard the thundering sound of the rock fall. My heart goes out to the family :(
@Tyrolean21 I'm sorry to hear about your friend. That comment you quoted was from my friend that I was shooting with that day.
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anilk
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 22, 2011 - 11:56am PT
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Sad news indeed. Condolences and peace to the families.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Sep 22, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
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The NW face is often low angle with many ledges. I thought there was an above average amount of loose rock for a "trade route".
Be careful up there!
 Luke
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Sep 22, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
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Wow, so sad!
My sincere condolences to family and friends.
RIP
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mbergreen
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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I was headed up the last fixed line on the slabs when we saw the first party coming down. We knew something was wrong when the helicopter had come by earlier making close passes to the wall. They dropped 4 yosar members on the shoulder of half dome, they hiked down to the base and cleaned things up. We watched as several parties hiked down past us. Seems that everyone decided to bail after the accident, we came to the same conclusion. We watched them helicopter the body out and then we hiked down right behind yosar. Strangely, yosar was chatting about their favorite approach shoes and what climbs they liked in yosemite while they hiked out with the guys partner. Obviously the guy was upset after having just watched his climbing partner fall to the ground. I know yosar deals with things like this regularly but I wish they would have been a little more respectful and somber.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Sep 27, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
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climbing is dangerous
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yosemitemtb
Social climber
Mariposa
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Sep 27, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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climbing is dangerous, rescuers are heroes and approach shoes are important.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sep 27, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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Way to minimize what these people have gone through.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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Sad to hear.
Condolences to friends and family.
A very random, tragic accident.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 27, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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Condolences to the family and friends of the climber.
Sad.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Sep 27, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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Strangely, yosar was chatting about their favorite approach shoes and what climbs they liked in yosemite while they hiked out with the guys partner. Obviously the guy was upset after having just watched his climbing partner fall to the ground. I know yosar deals with things like this regularly but I wish they would have been a little more respectful and somber.
They had to walk the guy out 8 miles. Sometimes it is best to keep the conversation lite so the person doesn't break down. Some people need their mind taken off things so that they can cope, and wait for a better time to deal with their pain. It is a judgment call.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 27, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
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sandstone climbers
you have to very careful.
i think that is why a lot of castle rock climbers are still alive today.
that stuff is fragille, so you try to put equal weight on your arms and legs and creep upp like a crawlin king snake.
tap on a few knobs, jostle a flake, take your time,bluey is a great climber because he taeks his time,
bypass the choss, and you can be the boss,
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scarpa
Mountain climber
Switzerland
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my friend roger and myself stayed at camp 4 at that time. really very very sad. we left the camp the other day.
Sincere condolences to all his family and friends.
Eugene from Switzerland/St. Gallen
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