Deadly accident on Half Dome - What happened?

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Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic
Tyrolean21

climber
Axams, Austria
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 21, 2011 - 02:50am PT
Does anybody know more about the horrible accident on the NW-face two days ago? Any YOSAR-Reports available? In which pitch did it happen?

The climbing comunity here in Tyrol/Austria is shocked - Markus was an excellent and very experienced climber (UIAGM Mountain Guide) and most of all a really, really nice guy!

I hope the other guys of the climbing team (some of them are probably still up on el cap and do not even know about their friend) have a save trip home!

Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Sep 21, 2011 - 02:57am PT
Hey Ty, sorry to hear about the loss of your friend.

Tom posted a little bit of information in his El Cap Report, located here: http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-91911

Looks like a block came loose and chopped the rope.

My condolences to his family and friends.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Sep 21, 2011 - 02:59am PT
Very very sorry to hear of this.
Sincere condolences to all his family.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 21, 2011 - 03:13am PT
Looks like a block came loose and chopped the rope

Ouch, that's pretty much what happened to me only I had 1/3rd of the rope left to hold me. There by the grace...

Condolences

Peace

Karl
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 21, 2011 - 05:40am PT
hey there say, tyrolean21... say, i am so very sorry for the loss of your dear friend...

my concolences and on-going prayers for you, and his family and friends, as to have to face the future without him, :(




Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Sep 21, 2011 - 08:54am PT
Sept. 19,2011


"In other news: Sad day here An Austrian climber fell to his death this morning, from the vicinity of the 7th pitch, on Half Dome. When he pulled off a block that cut his rope a foot or so from his tie in knot. YOSAR was soon on the scene and were able to recover the individual. His partner self rescued and was at the base when YOSAR team members arrived. Condolesences to friends and family."

http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-91911


So sorry! Condolences to friends and family.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Sep 21, 2011 - 09:09am PT
Condolences to all his friends and family.

Regards, Brian
cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 21, 2011 - 09:33am PT
Very sad, and scary.

Condolences to the friends and family of Markus.
YoungGun

Trad climber
North
Sep 21, 2011 - 09:44am PT
Tragic accident. Very sorry for the loss of your friend.

Would be interesting to have more details. Doesn't seem clear at this point whether the block coming off was the cause or just a consequence of his fall.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Sep 21, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
So sad.
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Sep 21, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
It does not matter where you are from. We are all sad for you.
strangeday

Trad climber
Brea ca.
Sep 21, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
Very sad news, best wishes to his family and friends...
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 21, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
oh no... i am so sorry for your loss. i was up there a couple months ago, was amazed at how much loose rock there is. be safe everybody.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Sep 21, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
markus? was he an innsbrucker?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 21, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
So sorry to hear about this.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 21, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
Very sad news. Condolences to family and friends.

John
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Sep 21, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
This is terribly sad news. I'm so sorry for the suffering of his friends and family.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 21, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
That he was a fellow guide only underscores how easy it is to become complacent on a well traveled route. Be careful people! Don't just yard on stuff because you see chalk. Check it out!

Tyrolean,
my sincere condolences.
Bargainhunter

climber
Sep 21, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
This shocks me. On such a trade route? Tragic indeed! Be careful out there.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Sep 21, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
Last Saturday We did Jensen's Jaunt at Tahquitz. A well traveled 5.6. I passed a 50lb or so boulder just sitting there on a ledge with no drama. It's been there as long as I can remember and I've been climbing there for over 40 years.

The leader of a party behind us grabbed it, ended up cradling it and not being able to let go without trundling it.

The outcome was comic, but only circumstance prevented it from turning tragic.

Be careful out there.

Travel lightly!


Condolences.
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Sep 22, 2011 - 12:03am PT
trade route or not, plenty of loose rock on HD, and if someone asked me where to watch out on that route, i'd have said between the 1/3 and 1/2 points, but of course the passing seasons change things too...


edit
sorry to hear about your friend
condolences all around

never take a day (or a friend) for granted
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Sep 22, 2011 - 01:17am PT
R.I.P.
Tyrolean21

climber
Axams, Austria
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2011 - 03:16am PT
Thank you all for your condolences!

I found this Comment at Tom's ElCap Report 9/19/11, postet by an anonymous user:

Sadly I witnessed this from the summit on that Monday morning. I was leaning over the NW visor getting some footage of the valley with my camera when I immediately heard some echoing from falling rocks just below. From what I saw was a rather large boulder, followed by a few other objects--not sure what it was at the time because rock falls are fairly common--but sad to know now that it was a body.

Fortunately there was an off-duty ranger named Kid who had a radio to call in and confirm the incident. A helicopter arrived about an hour after the accident occurred. I had to fill out a witness report with the Ranger. Sad day for Yosemite. Weather was too perfect. Wish the best to his friends and family.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Sep 22, 2011 - 03:18am PT
gravity sucks
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Sep 22, 2011 - 03:36am PT
Doesn't seem clear at this point whether the block coming off was the cause ... of his fall.
I have some swampland in Florida I'd like to sell you.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 22, 2011 - 05:03am PT
We recently came within a breath of losing Karl B. to a similar incident - it can happen even if you're being careful - condolences to everyone involved...
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Sep 22, 2011 - 08:13am PT
My son is heading up that route in a week. I hope he is EXTRA careful.

A few years ago, a party trundled a 300 pound rock down on us, from high up on the NWF. We were very lucky that we were under a slight overhang which saved us. That route is getting loose!

So sorry to hear this news.
YoungGun

Trad climber
North
Sep 22, 2011 - 09:06am PT
@BIOTCH: just mean that it's not clear why the block came off. could take a fall on a piece of gear that dislodges rock, or could pull on it and have it come loose, etc. this as separate from the block cutting the rope.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Sep 22, 2011 - 09:51am PT
A friend of mine was climbing the chimney on Half Dome some years ago. He set a cam on one side of a flake and threw a hand jam on the other. Luckily, he chose the "right" side, since the huge flake shifted and demolished the cam. Could have been his hand!

Be careful out there...

Josh
Barple

Boulder climber
San Francisco
Sep 22, 2011 - 11:54am PT
I'm very sorry to hear this. I was at the top of Half Dome doing timelapses when I heard the thundering sound of the rock fall. My heart goes out to the family :(

@Tyrolean21 I'm sorry to hear about your friend. That comment you quoted was from my friend that I was shooting with that day.
anilk

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 22, 2011 - 11:56am PT
Sad news indeed. Condolences and peace to the families.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 22, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
The NW face is often low angle with many ledges. I thought there was an above average amount of loose rock for a "trade route".

Be careful up there!

 Luke
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Sep 22, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
Wow, so sad!
My sincere condolences to family and friends.
RIP
mbergreen

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 27, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
I was headed up the last fixed line on the slabs when we saw the first party coming down. We knew something was wrong when the helicopter had come by earlier making close passes to the wall. They dropped 4 yosar members on the shoulder of half dome, they hiked down to the base and cleaned things up. We watched as several parties hiked down past us. Seems that everyone decided to bail after the accident, we came to the same conclusion. We watched them helicopter the body out and then we hiked down right behind yosar. Strangely, yosar was chatting about their favorite approach shoes and what climbs they liked in yosemite while they hiked out with the guys partner. Obviously the guy was upset after having just watched his climbing partner fall to the ground. I know yosar deals with things like this regularly but I wish they would have been a little more respectful and somber.
eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Sep 27, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
climbing is dangerous
yosemitemtb

Social climber
Mariposa
Sep 27, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
climbing is dangerous, rescuers are heroes and approach shoes are important.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Sep 27, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
Way to minimize what these people have gone through.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Sep 27, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
Sad to hear.

Condolences to friends and family.

A very random, tragic accident.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 27, 2011 - 11:01pm PT

Condolences to the family and friends of the climber.
Sad.
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
Sep 27, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
Strangely, yosar was chatting about their favorite approach shoes and what climbs they liked in yosemite while they hiked out with the guys partner. Obviously the guy was upset after having just watched his climbing partner fall to the ground. I know yosar deals with things like this regularly but I wish they would have been a little more respectful and somber.

They had to walk the guy out 8 miles. Sometimes it is best to keep the conversation lite so the person doesn't break down. Some people need their mind taken off things so that they can cope, and wait for a better time to deal with their pain. It is a judgment call.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Sep 27, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
sandstone climbers

you have to very careful.

i think that is why a lot of castle rock climbers are still alive today.

that stuff is fragille, so you try to put equal weight on your arms and legs and creep upp like a crawlin king snake.

tap on a few knobs, jostle a flake, take your time,bluey is a great climber because he taeks his time,

bypass the choss, and you can be the boss,
scarpa

Mountain climber
Switzerland
Oct 3, 2011 - 10:43am PT
my friend roger and myself stayed at camp 4 at that time. really very very sad. we left the camp the other day.
Sincere condolences to all his family and friends.
Eugene from Switzerland/St. Gallen
Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic
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