El Capitanís Salathť Wall- The Proudest Rock Climb On Earth

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 80 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Oct 1, 2011 - 05:31am PT
Jim B.,
I guess I have to say I don't agree with your comment
about Godfrey. We don't have to argue about it or
anything, but he was a gentle soul in many ways and
suffered mightily from loneliness. He poured his energy
into his creativity and really more or less developed a
style of his own in photography. When he developed Parkinson's
it frightened him deeply. He took his life. I was called
to come to his house and take some of his books and
belongings. As I entered the front door, a book fell off
a shelf by the door. I picked up the book, and it was
a collection of poems by Robert Creeley. I opened the book
and went directly to a page with a passage underlined:
"Men kill themselves because they are afraid of dying."
That was a bit chilling. I didn't like some of the garbage
Bob wrote for Climb! He got a lot wrong, but I forgive him,
in time. It was, of course, in part through Bob's vision
that "Master of Rock," my book about Gill, was published
(Godfrey was the publisher). He was a good man. Yes
you would have benefitted
from knowing him.
Pat
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Oct 1, 2011 - 05:54am PT
goddamn pat. right on.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
"Silver soldiers stood guard behind him and the ropes run smoothly through the ranks."

What an imaginative account!

Three weeks to go until the proud gathering in celebration of the Salathť FA 50th!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Oct 2, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
I'm bummed that I'm going to miss the anniversary gathering, I'll be leaving the Valley two days before.
tonym

climber
Oklahoma
Nov 2, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
@ Gary Olsen..
Your NIAD first El Cap route was awesome for me to watch Gary! Tom and I were on our big adventure first El Cap route the Nose at the same time. Sleeping on Sickle and hearing you guys come up late at night was so cool. I have always admired your climbing ability Gary and have always had much respect for you.

Cheers,

Tony
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
The proudest of bumps...
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jan 2, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
this thread was an awesome find!
bonin_in_the_boneyard

Trad climber
Oak Land, California
Jan 2, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
I love it when folks post these old scans. I have a folder full of them on my computer. Thanks!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
You're welcome!
More Air

Trad climber
S.L.C.
Feb 17, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
First pitch
First pitch
Credit: More Air
Looking down the headwall...you can see the Block, El Cap Spire, Hollo...
Looking down the headwall...you can see the Block, El Cap Spire, Hollow Flake and Heart Ledges.
Credit: More Air
Looking down on Long Ledge...My favorite bivy in Yosemite.
Looking down on Long Ledge...My favorite bivy in Yosemite.
Credit: More Air

These photos are of my first El Cap route (4 1/2 days) in 1978...My favorite wall experience ever.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
A couple from the vault...My partner Jay Ladin took both shots.


The classic pitch off of El Cap Spire.


The original Headwall belay.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Mar 10, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
Climbing the Salathe Wall was a coming of age event for me back when Yosemite Valley was Camalot.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
There is a legal limit to the snow here...but as for July and August Camanot!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 26, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
"I led from there to the top of El Cap Tower."

Not unless you flew over there you didn't.

You must mean the eponymous spire.

I'm just picking your nose.

MFM
For the record, we took 6 days. I'm in awe of your speed. But we were on vacation. Why bother blitzing it if all we wanted was to get AWAY from the old lady?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
A Galen Rowell shot of Layton Kor from the Harvey Carter days at Climbing magazine.



Come and hear the entire sweep of history on this magnificent climb at the Oakdale Climbers Festival this year. Robbins, Frost, Steck, Haan, Piana and Florine to mention a few will be on hand to discuss their grand adventures on this route and the man behind the name.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1902674/Announcing-The-Oakdale-Climbers-Festival-10-26-10-28-2012
Register before the deadline for free!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
What a fantastic examination that was!

Long overdue bump for the standard setting classic!
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Feb 24, 2016 - 09:30am PT
Bump, trying to kick the politerds to the curb
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Feb 24, 2016 - 11:01am PT
Thanks for the bump and the old articles. Good to read golsen's story.

First got on the Salathe in '93 with Steve Lowry. We were bivied in the alcove when a BIG rain storm came in, 4 or 5 inches measured in the valley. Steve was set up in the back of the alcove with haul bag and bivy sack under a double portaledge rain fly. He fared reasonably well and could sit up in there. I on the other hand was in just a bivy sack on a little ledge up against el cap spire. Very windy and wet all night. Plus Steve was smoking all the cigs and weed we had brought for the route, and I could do nothing but lay there and smell the odors, cursing him but thinking I would be doing the same if I could.

The next day was heli rescue day on the wall. I think we were the only ones on that side, other than a Salathe team above us, who did not get pulled off that day. We sat and watched the whole thing, tried to dry out, and then rapped off the following day. Interesting to reverse the hollow flake. Went back in '96 and finished it, no one else on the climb. Lots of interesting climbing on that one.

The thought of taking a whipper on the great roof is somewhat terrifying.
zBrown

Ice climber
Feb 24, 2016 - 11:08am PT
BUMP - Worthy of more than 15 seconds of fame, no?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss On the End of a Wet Fist
Feb 24, 2016 - 11:37am PT
EL EYE VEE EYE EN!!!!
Credit: Dave Schultz
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