Glacier Pt. Friction

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Rokjox

Trad climber
Degnan's Deli
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
What ever happened to apron climbing? In the day I so enjoyed the apron that I climbed about everything there one time or another. I saw the trees on the slab ledge were gone, and I understand that the infamous rockfalls' scared a lot of people away, but is the apron now considered out of bounds, or just too easy? Noticed a few bolts missing when I tried to get to coonyard, years ago. But the runouts were always long. Sure was a nice place to hang out in the sun.

The calf in EB's wasn't "easy", but it may be now.
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Mar 1, 2006 - 03:27pm PT
i always see other parties when i climb over there
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 1, 2006 - 04:16pm PT
check out this link but a picture is worth a thousand words. Anyone want to go up Mr. Natural?



Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 1, 2006 - 05:28pm PT
I've climbed at the Cow, Grack, Goodrich, and Harry Daley since the rockfalls. I wouldn't want to go much further right. Nothing is officially closed, as far as I know, but apparently there is still a loose/detached flake in that release area above Mr. Natural (nice photo but kinda grim given that guy died there). It's a bummer have Mr. Natural be too risky to do (in my view) - I did that climb on a regular basis before that initial pounding of Monday Morning Slab made me avoid the Apron for awhile. Point Beyond / Angel's Approach would also be nice to do, but it feels too risky there for me.

I did go back and do Rixon's Pinnacle a few weeks ago, and the climb was fairly clean but the "blast factor" at the base was a bit unnerving.

Edit: check out these similar threads from the past:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=92979
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=83307
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=64688
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=25358
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=10267
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Mar 1, 2006 - 05:31pm PT
the whole valley is an active rockfall zone!

i have done mr natural twice since that unfortunate guy died there. great climbing, just get in and get out.
Rokjox

Trad climber
Degnan's Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2006 - 05:54pm PT
Actually the PB-AA thing was in my mind. It sure was a fun and easy route. Considering what is done at ski areas when an avalanche threatens, I'm surprised the Forest Circus doesn't blast a badly hanging flake, certainly enough have died over there already. I remember the whole sewer thing, which is undoubtably still "hanging" over everything there.

But even tourists are at risk for that sort of thing. Maybe we need a self appointed cleaning crew to release that thing late some night.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 1, 2006 - 06:31pm PT
Rokjox wrote:
>... Maybe we need a self appointed cleaning crew to release that thing late some night.

The flake is huge, so it would take some serious explosives - so basically there is no way; we'll have to wait for nature to take its time. I recall a photo taken from a helicopter. It's not handlable by 1-2 people like that old block on the Nose that got trundled.

and Matt wrote:
>the whole valley is an active rockfall zone!

True, but clearly some areas are higher risk than others (just in terms of observed frequency of rockfalls, for example). Everyone chooses their own level of acceptable risk, of course. I guess I'm lucky that I already did Mr. Natural so many times; I don't feel such an urgent need to get back on it now.
Kupandamingi

Trad climber
Berkeley
Mar 1, 2006 - 06:36pm PT
I climbed Mr. Natural (perhaps ill advisedly) last fall. Such a shame about the rock fall potential as it is truely seared in my mind as one of the best pitches (we third classed to the crack) Ive ever been on.

That said - I wont go back, just not worth it to me
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Mar 1, 2006 - 06:36pm PT
I doubt I'll ever climb over there again. Why climb under the same old gun, I guess is my thinking. There are plenty of other objective hazards to risk in the mountains.

But for those who do, right on... may the god of slides be with you.

DMT
Rokjox

Trad climber
Degnan's Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2006 - 06:59pm PT
A small bottle (hydralic) jack can replace a lot of explosives. if you can find a safe place to hang from.

Not that I would recommend this to just anybody. Or anybody. Just a thought - us engineering types are always thinking of ways to rebuild the world -can't help it.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Mar 1, 2006 - 07:37pm PT
A large car jack was used to increase the length of "Strange Energy" by at least 30 feet. The whole "Punch Bowl" to "Mr. Natural Area" has been a bowling alley for years, and years. Just take a look at the talus pile over there. We always climbed on that side of the Apron in the Fall or early Winter after everything had cut loose in the Spring. When the water is seeping, stay away.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Mar 2, 2006 - 12:42pm PT
I've been on Mr Natural twice since the big rock fall. I don't see it as a bigger deal than being at the bottom of Central Pillar or being anywhere at the bottom of El Cap.

I wear a helmet, rack up away from the cliff, and don't hang around (same thing I do at Central or El Cap).

I even did Good Book this last year, although it looked a little dodgier (but very fun, my first time on it).

As far as other people climbing at the Apron, there are a lot of already runout routes that are getting pretty rusty. Anyone for free soloing 5.11 friction?
nate

Trad climber
virginia
Mar 2, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
I can say that being at the top of rixon's after doing the good book this spring. I have never wanted anyone to follow a lead that quickly. Jeez all the bolts sheared off and bent.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Mar 2, 2006 - 02:35pm PT
Rockfall or not (thanx NPS) the Apron is home to some of the best slab routes on the planet! Something about the sound of rubber squeaking on glacial polish just sends me. Too bad certain individuals have felt the need to boost their sagging egos by slagging friction routes and downrating Apron routes. Routes like Perfect Master and Nothing on the Apron are solid 5.12 regardless of whether some guidebook author hung his way up the bolts or in the case of Hall of Mirrors downrated the route after wearing out a pair of shoes whipping all over the rig! Damn the Torpedos - full speed ahead.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 2, 2006 - 02:45pm PT
The idea that the rockfall pushed the goodbook all the way over to rixon's is enough to make me, wary.
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Mar 2, 2006 - 02:53pm PT
Some of my fondest Valley memories are of routes on the Apron.

At the end of my first trip I fell off of "Lean Years" and went home to New Hampshire. Six months later I returned and led it, in Fires with 5 pieces of pro. Someone at the base razzed me for taking so little gear, but I countered with, "If I take it, I will use it," and so I sent it with some unnessesary runouts.

Son of Sam and Lean Years were pre-breakfast classics; I probably did 20 ascents of each. The boulder problem (Short Circuit, I think???) that was uphill and to the right was the only place I saw rockfall, courtesy of the watercourse above. I never got hit, but there were some memorable close calls. I still never wore a helmet, being 20 and indestructible and all...

Misty Beethoven was the best, and when I return to the valley I will surely throw myself at the pitches above Misty's P5, and damn the torpedoes.
nate

Trad climber
virginia
Mar 2, 2006 - 03:36pm PT
confusion by me good book= the folly ? someone help me
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Mar 2, 2006 - 06:23pm PT
On Stoney's main wall is a boulder about 7 ft by 3 ft Elipsoid.
A car jack would send it tumbling down towards Topanga Canyon. Anyone in?

Juanito
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 2, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
Coonyard, circa 1975. Dig the pair of biners, the pop-top hanger, and the bell bottoms baby.

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 2, 2006 - 08:49pm PT
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