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Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic |
Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 3, 2011 - 07:01am PT
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Just did a new climb in the meadows and wanted to share. It's a beautiful 50 foot overhanging green alien crack up on the power wall, which you might have passed on the decent from Tenaya peak. It felt like the most difficult crack I've climbed and one of the best.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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looks nice. what did you rate it?
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Looks cool, I thought Croft did all those years ago...whether or not, great job!
Peter
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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I always thought that one looked rad. Did you start off the snow?
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Peter, Schneider did the one to the right, I did the one just left, and Croft did the next one over. I think this is new - and hard, I'm sure!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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How was the one to the right?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Very nice. Thanks for the post!
John
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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wow - looks like a seam down low. Got to be hard on a wall that steep.
Hard to imagine Peter C. did not give it a go. If he didn't climb it, it must be *really* hard.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Ink Red Table !!!
That thing looked impossible when I walked past.
Such great quality rock.
Most excellent.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Nice Charlie!You deserve it.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Cool
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Ho Charliemaan, been there done that maan.......back in '78. Uh, I think....yeah, with hexes. Good second anyway maan.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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LOL! Ouch...
Hey Charlie, what up? Long time no see...
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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beth rodden told me that was 5.10+
juss sayin...
=)
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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I never climbed it......and neither did anyone before Charlie is my bet.
He should call it "History not his story"
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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Didn't start off the snow, there's a gap in between the snow and the wall. That bank is still there, that last pic was taken 2 days ago. Croft told me he did try it but never did it, must have been too far of a walk for him...
Maysho ever try Panic in Detroit?!
No clue on the grade really, felt harder than Love Supreme and Whippersnapper, so 13b/c? Until Beth onsights it and says 12- ring locks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Is it comparable to Panic? - which i'm sure Maysho did decades ago...
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Charlie,
Good to see you at the Taco stand. Looks awesome dude. Your the man.
Loved your show at the Rock, Ice & Mountain Club. Where was that back country camping area with the bear boxes you did all that bouldering?
Looks like like your having a great summer. Keep up the good work Bro.
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smoores
Social climber
San Francisco
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Charlie fired it, it was really cool to see! I tried it on toprope after he sent and let me just say that that thing is brutal - big moves on bad feet between flaring, awkward (sharp!) fingerlocks. Not to mention steep.
It is worlds harder than Panic in Detroit and a very proud send.
Congrats again CB!
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CF
climber
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Wait, I did the 1st back in 73 with the original hexes and clogs!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Overhanging green aliens- yikes!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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I'm sticking with my story. If Peter tried and did not get it, it is 13c or harder.
Way to go Charlie!
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Hah! Great effort! Sure it is way harder than Panic, but I still wouldn't know...Been saving Panic for the on-sight lead attempt for 31 years now...Really, takes some effort to keep it pure for how much I hang out at Snowshed, I really look away when anyone is on it. Maybe this fall will be the time, I have been waiting for the perfect auspicious moment, when I am fit, horoscope lines up etc. Kind of standing joke around Donner as I am sure Charlie knows...
Congrats again...
Peter
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2011 - 05:40am PT
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peter, way cool. I know you look away when someone is on Panic, seen it in person. might have to start a thread about your onsight...
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Norman Claude
climber
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Peter did a crack much further down toward the Vision. Dale and I tried and failed until Croft came and amended our effort. Five thirteen something was the rating.
Claude
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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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That crack ain't new. It's been there for several thousand years, maybe hundreds of them or more. But your ascent of it is! Congrats.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Charlie, did you onsight it or take a toprope run first?? (I'm not trying to start a sh#t storm, it's all good with me, just curious)
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Charlie placed all his gear on lead cuz he keeps that shizzle real! Proud send for sure!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Chuck B the hard climber...Not to be confused with this guy-
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