new tuolumne crack

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Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic
Charlie B

Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 3, 2011 - 07:01am PT

Just did a new climb in the meadows and wanted to share. It's a beautiful 50 foot overhanging green alien crack up on the power wall, which you might have passed on the decent from Tenaya peak. It felt like the most difficult crack I've climbed and one of the best.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Sep 3, 2011 - 08:51am PT
looks nice. what did you rate it?
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Sep 3, 2011 - 08:55am PT
Looks cool, I thought Croft did all those years ago...whether or not, great job!

Peter
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Sep 3, 2011 - 10:59am PT
I always thought that one looked rad. Did you start off the snow?
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Sep 3, 2011 - 11:42am PT
Peter, Schneider did the one to the right, I did the one just left, and Croft did the next one over. I think this is new - and hard, I'm sure!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 3, 2011 - 11:56am PT
How was the one to the right?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 3, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
Nice!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 3, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Very nice. Thanks for the post!

John
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 3, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
wow - looks like a seam down low. Got to be hard on a wall that steep.

Hard to imagine Peter C. did not give it a go. If he didn't climb it, it must be *really* hard.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 3, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Ink Red Table !!!

That thing looked impossible when I walked past.
Such great quality rock.

Most excellent.
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Sep 3, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
Nice Charlie!You deserve it.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Sep 3, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
Cool
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Sep 3, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
Ho Charliemaan, been there done that maan.......back in '78. Uh, I think....yeah, with hexes. Good second anyway maan.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Sep 3, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
LOL! Ouch...

Hey Charlie, what up? Long time no see...
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Sep 3, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
beth rodden told me that was 5.10+

juss sayin...
=)
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Sep 3, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
I never climbed it......and neither did anyone before Charlie is my bet.
He should call it "History not his story"
Charlie B

Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
Didn't start off the snow, there's a gap in between the snow and the wall. That bank is still there, that last pic was taken 2 days ago. Croft told me he did try it but never did it, must have been too far of a walk for him...

Maysho ever try Panic in Detroit?!

No clue on the grade really, felt harder than Love Supreme and Whippersnapper, so 13b/c? Until Beth onsights it and says 12- ring locks.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 3, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
Is it comparable to Panic? - which i'm sure Maysho did decades ago...
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Sep 3, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
Charlie,
Good to see you at the Taco stand. Looks awesome dude. Your the man.

Loved your show at the Rock, Ice & Mountain Club. Where was that back country camping area with the bear boxes you did all that bouldering?

Looks like like your having a great summer. Keep up the good work Bro.
smoores

Social climber
San Francisco
Sep 3, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
Charlie fired it, it was really cool to see! I tried it on toprope after he sent and let me just say that that thing is brutal - big moves on bad feet between flaring, awkward (sharp!) fingerlocks. Not to mention steep.

It is worlds harder than Panic in Detroit and a very proud send.

Congrats again CB!
CF

climber
Sep 3, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
Wait, I did the 1st back in 73 with the original hexes and clogs!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 3, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
Overhanging green aliens- yikes!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 4, 2011 - 03:33am PT
I'm sticking with my story. If Peter tried and did not get it, it is 13c or harder.

Way to go Charlie!
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Sep 4, 2011 - 03:49am PT
Hah! Great effort! Sure it is way harder than Panic, but I still wouldn't know...Been saving Panic for the on-sight lead attempt for 31 years now...Really, takes some effort to keep it pure for how much I hang out at Snowshed, I really look away when anyone is on it. Maybe this fall will be the time, I have been waiting for the perfect auspicious moment, when I am fit, horoscope lines up etc. Kind of standing joke around Donner as I am sure Charlie knows...

Congrats again...

Peter
Charlie B

Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2011 - 05:40am PT
peter, way cool. I know you look away when someone is on Panic, seen it in person. might have to start a thread about your onsight...
Norman Claude

climber
Sep 4, 2011 - 09:39am PT
Peter did a crack much further down toward the Vision. Dale and I tried and failed until Croft came and amended our effort. Five thirteen something was the rating.

Claude
billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Sep 4, 2011 - 10:14am PT
That crack ain't new. It's been there for several thousand years, maybe hundreds of them or more. But your ascent of it is! Congrats.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Sep 4, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
Charlie, did you onsight it or take a toprope run first?? (I'm not trying to start a sh#t storm, it's all good with me, just curious)
lucho

Trad climber
California
Sep 4, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
Charlie placed all his gear on lead cuz he keeps that shizzle real! Proud send for sure!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Sep 4, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
Chuck B the hard climber...Not to be confused with this guy-

Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic
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