History & Records in Zion and Redrocks

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ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
California
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2011 - 08:09pm PT


I used to keep a record of speed climbing and history on my website of the SouthWest walls, which I no longer have. I was wondering if anybody wanted to take the ball and run with the information I've kept throughout the years.

I still climb in Zion and Redrocks but feel pretty much out-of-the-loop with what's going on there.

YO(Ryan)? Bird? Bill Wright? Hans?

Anyway, here's the information, feel free to use it however you'd like:




~The SouthWest~

Current Records, First One Day, First Ascents & History

~Three Routes in a Day~

Zion -


Two Walls Free in a Day - Moonlight Buttress - Spaceshot
12:25 - Alex Honnold, Chris Weidner - April 5-6, 2008 (Car-to-car: 13:30)

Four Walls in a Day - Touchstone Wall - Spaceshot - Monkey Finger - Moonlight Buttress
18:00 - Mike Pennings, Jeff Hollenbach - Springbreak 1999

Four Walls in a Day - Touchstone Wall - Spaceshot - Moonlight Buttress - Monkey Finger
22:30 - Doug Heinrich, Conrad Anker - 1992 (Car-to-car... including a lunch on the summit of Moonlight)

Three Walls in a Day - Prodigal Sun - Moonlight Buttress - Lunar Ecstasy
12:00 - Brian McCray, Ammon McNeely - February 22, 2003, (Car-to-car)

Three Walls in a Day - Space Shot, Moonlight Buttress, Prodigal Sun
15:30 - Stoney Richards, Joe Puryear, May 2002, (Car-to-car)

Three Walls in a Day - Touchstone Wall, Spaceshot, Monkey Finger
18:00 - Doug Heinrich, Seth Shaw - 1992

Two Walls in a Day - Touchstone Wall & NE Buttress of Angels Landing
8:00 - Conrad Anker & John Middendorf, 1991 (First Link-up in Zion)


~Streaked Wall
Rodeo Queen - VI, 5.11, A4
22:18 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - Feburary 26-27, 2006 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - Mugs Stump & Conrad Anker - April 1990

Tales of the Scorpion - VI, 5.10, A3+
17:26 - Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely - January 22, 2006 (First One Day Ascent)
First Solo Ascent - Matt Erdmann - October 2-6, 2007 (First Solo of the Streaked Wall)
First Ascent - Dave Webster, Jeff Mayhew & Rick Nelson - April 1990

Latitudes VI, 5.10, A4+
18:40 - "Fly'n Brian" McCray & Ammon McNeely - February 16, 2003 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - Paul Gagner & Eric Brand - May, 1994


Mnt. Moroni
Smoot-Ellison, aka: Cosmic Egg - V, 5.10, C2+
4:10 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - March 2, 2006
?:?? - Doug Heinrich (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - Brian Smoot & Les Ellison - April 1983


~Angels Landing
Swiss American - IV, 5.9r, A4
19:?? - McCray & Kurt Arend - February 1999 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - John Middendorf & Xaver Bongard - October 19-22, 1991

Prodigal Sun - IV, 5.8, C2
2:36 - Ammon McNeely & Brian McCray, February 22, 2003 (Three Records in a Day)
Sub-4:00 - Chris Tatum & Clay Usinger, Febuary 2006 (Five Hours ,Car-to-car)
4:44 - Stoney Richards & Joe Puryear - May, 2002 (Three Routes in a Day)
5:00 - Doug Heinrich & Seth Shaw, 1992
7:15 - Joe Puryear (solo) - April 7, 2003
7:50 - Barry Ward & Ron Olevsky - May, 1988 (First One Day & First Hammerles Ascent)
First Ascent - Ron Olevsky (solo) - September, 1981

Lost Angel - V, 5.10, A3
18:41 - Ryan Frost & Scott Greenhalgh - February 25-26, 2006 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - John Varco & Dave Littman - April 1999

Ball and Chain - V, 5.10, A4
9:07 - Brian McCray & Kurt Arend - October 1, 2003
14:56 - Kurt Arend & Bob Jacobsen, April, 2003 (First One Day Ascent)
First Free Ascent - Brian McCray - October 1, 2003 (One point of aid)
First Ascent - Glenn Randall (solo) - 1978

South of Heaven- V, 5.8, A4
37:14 - Brian McCray, Ammon McNeely & Kurt Arend (bivy in Springdale)
First Ascent - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray & Kurt Arend - September, 2003


~Moonlight Buttress
Sheer Lunacy - V, 5.9, C2 or 5.12d
3:55 - Doug Heinrich, 2000 (First Free Ascent)
First Ascent - Ron Olevsky (solo) - August, 1992

Lunar Ecstasy - V, 5.9, C2+ (please do NOT cam hook on Zion trade routes)
4:09 - Ammon McNeely & Brian McCray, February 22, 2003 (Three Records in a Day)
First Ascent - Linus Platte & Brad Quinn - April 2-5, 1992

The Dark Side of the Moon
18:00 - Matt Meinzer & Ryan Frost, March 26-27 2006 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - ?

Moonlight Buttress - V, 5.12d or 5.9, C1
1:23 - Alex Honnold, April 1, 2008 (Solo, First Free Solo) SICK!!
1:57 - Brian McCray & Ammon McNeely, February 22, 2003 (Three Records in a Day)
2:49 - Jason Kraus & Garret Kemper, Fall 2000
4:30 - Stoney Richards & Joe Puryear - May, 2002 (Three Routes in a Day)
6:18 - Dan Russell & Adam Ezlahpazir, December, 2002
12:00 - Barry Ward & John Middendorf, 1989 Car-to-car (First One Day Ascent)
6:32 - Joe Puryear (solo) - April 9, 2003
First Free Ascent - Peter Croft & Johnny Woodward - April, 1992
First Ascent - Jeff Lowe & Mike Weiss - October, 1971

~Bill & Bill's Wall
Swoop Gimp (or be dust) - V, 5.9 C3
3:40 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - December 6, 2005
First Ascent - Barry Ward & Alan Humphrey

~Monkeyfinger Wall
Monkeyfinger Wall - IV, 5.11+
?:?? - Mike Pennings & Jeff Hollenbach - 1999 (This is my guess of fastest ascent)
First Free Ascent - Drew Bedford & Pokey Amory - May, 1984
First Ascent - Ron Olevsky & Rob Schnelker - May, 1978

~Leaning Wall
Cosmic Trauma - V, 5.10, C3
2:54 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - December 7, 2005 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - Barry Ward & Alan Humphrey - April, 1989

Spaceshot - IV, 5.10 C2
1:36:54 - Brian McCray & Ammon McNeely - October 12, 2003
2:30 - Doug Heinrich & Seth Shaw, 1992
3:23 - Stoney Richards & Joe Puryear, May, 2002 (Three Routes in a Day)
5:35 - Dan Russell & Ryan Sayers, October 2002
3:57 - Ammon McNeely (solo) - 2000
First Ascent - Ron Olevsky & Dave Jones -1980

~Desert Shield Wall
Desert Shield - V, 5.11, C3
2:57 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - December 5, 2005
7:00 - Doug Heinrich & Seth Shaw, 1993
12:00 - Clay Cahoon & Joe Auer, 2001, (Car-to-car)
FOD - Brad Quinn, Doug Beyerly & John Middendorf - 1991 (First One Day Asent) - Car-to-Car in daylight
First Ascent - Drew Bedford & Tim Stack - April 3, 1993
*Note: Eric Rassmusen & Chris Sircello climbed the first five pitches in1992

Disco Inferno - V, 5.10, C2+ or PDD (Pretty Damn Disco)
3:42 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - March 6, 2006 (First One Day Acent)
First Ascent - Josh Cannon, Calder Stratford & John Middendorf - January 1995

~Cereberus Gendarme
Touchstone - IV, 5.9, C2
1:50 - Doug Heinrich & Seth Shaw, 1992
3:30 - Chris Tatum & Clay Usinger, April 2006
Sub-4:00 - John Middendorf and Conrad Anker, 1991
4:20 - Joe Auer & Ammon McNeely, 2000 (time is a guess within 10 minutes either way... The Bleeder dropped the watch)
7:24 - Ryan Crochiere & Mike Staton, 2002
First Clean Ascent - Ron Olevsky (solo) May, 1981 (Name changed to Touchstone at this time)
First Ascent - Cerberus Wall, Olevsky Route - Ron Olevsky (solo) January 16-17, 1977
*Note: There were a handful of parties who did one day ascents prior to Middenorf and Anker's in 1991

~Great White Throne
Great White Throne, NWF - VI, 5.8, A3
12:00 - Rick Wyatt & Dave Jenkins, 1977 (First One Day Ascent of a Grade VI in Zion)
First Ascent - Fred Beckey, Galen Rowell & Pat Callis - May, 5-7, 1967

~East Temple
The Fang Spire - V, 5.10, A3
9:00 - Brian Smoot & Kim Miller, 1999
First Ascent - John Middendorf & Kyle Kopeland - May 22, 1988

*Note: Brad Quinn, Doug Beyerly & John Middendorf, had other fast ascents of Zion routes in the early days, before they thought about documenting exact time - only caring about having a good time....

Red Rocks -


Three Walls in a Day - Cloud Tower - Original Route, Rainbow Wall - Crimson Chrysalis
13:00 - Jeremy Collins & Ben "Torch" Williams - April 15, 2007 (All Free, car-to car from oak creek lot)

Three Walls in a Day - Levitation 29 - Original Route, Rainbow Wall - Epinephrine
18:15 - Kelly Cordes & Josh Thompson - April 26th-27th, 2007 (base of first route to summit of last - car-to-car 22hrs)

Three Walls in a Day - Levitation 29 - Cloud Tower - Epinephrine (First link-up in Red Rocks)
20:07 - Ivo Ninov & Renan Ozturk - March 24, 2004 (time is clocked from the base of the first route and summit of the last)

Two Walls in a Day - Original Route, Rainbow Wall - Levitation 29
15:15 - Josh Thompson & Brent Armstrong - April 2006 Car-to-car


Original Route, Rainbow Wall - V, 5.12b or A1
4:00 - Jeremy Collins & Ben "Torch" Williams - April 15, 2007 (Three Routes in a day)
4:10 - Josh Thompson & Brent Armstrong - April 2006, give or take 10 min. (Two Routes in a Day)
4:30 - Kelly Cordes & Josh Thompson - April 26-27, 2007 (Three Routes in a Day)
First Ascent - Joe Herbst & Larry Hamilton - April, 1973

Cloud Tower - IV, 5.12
1:45 - Renan Ozturk & Ivo Ninov - March 24, 2004 (Three Routes in a Day)
2:00 - Jeremy Collins & Ben "Torch" Williams - April 15, 2007 (Three Routes in a Day)
First Ascent - Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison & Nick Nordblom - Spring 1983

Levitaion 29 - IV, 5.11c
1:40 - Renan Ozturk & Ivo Ninov - March 24, 2004 (Three Routes in a Day)
2:40 - Kelly Cordes & Josh Thompson - April 26, 2007 (Three Routes in a Day)
4:00 - Josh Thompson & Brent Armstrong - April 2006, give or take 10 min. (Two Routes in a Day)
First Free Ascent - Lynn Hill, John Long & Joanne Urioste - May, 1981
First Ascent - Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Bill Bradley - April, 1981

Epinephrine - IV, 5.9
1:06 - Josh Swartz - Free-Solo, Janurary 2003
1:30 - Erik Roed & Dave Sorric - September, 2003 (Doorknob-to-doorknob in 4 hours, from Dave's house in Blue Diamond)
4:05 - Ivo Ninov and Renan Ozturk - March 24, 2004 (Three Routes in a Day)
4:55 - Kelly Cordes & Josh Thompson - April 27, 2007 (Three Routes in a Day)
5:20 - Bill Wright George Bell, (Car-to-car in 7:30)
First Ascent - Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Joe Herbst - August, 1978





bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Aug 27, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
Give me the speed!
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Mar 13, 2013 - 07:57am PT
Hey, great post Ammon, glad to have found this one.


My friend Luke Holloway and I just did the link up of Cloud Tower, Rainbow Wall (original route), Levitation 29.

We started climbing at 745am and topped out at 801pm - 12 hours 16 minutes on all 3 routes. 16 hours car to car.

We went into it thinking it had never been done, but a friend told us maybe it had... Anyone know? I think it was a super obvious link up, Cloud Tower and Rainbow wall are both in the same canyon, and you can top out and cross the point to arrive at the summit of Levitation 29, rappel and climb the route back to the summit.

Of course a few years back Kelly Cordes and Josh Tompson did the Cloud Tower, Leavitation, Epinepherine link up, but I think this one is neat because no car needed, no canyon change required...and it could be so much bigger!

10b4me

Boulder climber
Lost
Mar 13, 2013 - 08:15am PT
^^^good job
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Mar 13, 2013 - 09:28am PT
Here is some press about a Cloud Tower/ Rainbow Wall linkup:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-red-rocks-link-collins

I really thought somone else had done this...

Here is the news about the Josh and Kelly doing the linkup you mentioned:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/News/Ascents/22_hour_monster_Link-up_in_Red_Rocks_644.html

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-red-rocks-levitation-rainbow-epinephrine


I know that Tommy and Alex were just in Red Rock and did some crazy linkup.

They also did 4 walls in 16hrs in Zion. Not sure of the routes beyond Touchstone.

I'm guessing there will be some press about it shortly.



John Dickey photo of those guys on Touchstone.

Regardless. Nice work on the linkup. That is a TON of pitches!!

 Luke

Edit: Touchstone not Spaceshot... My bad. Wrong 5.13 route :-D

Some Rad photos of Nik on Lunar X.
http://nikberry.blogspot.com/2011/04/lunar-x-free-513-ffa.html
Shiho

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Mar 13, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Lunar Ecstasy got freed in 2011(?) by Nik Berry.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Mar 13, 2013 - 10:03am PT
Thanks Luke -

I have read those articles about Collins and Cordes. Good stuff!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 13, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Pretty sure that is Touchstone, not SS.
(I have some passing familiarity with these routes)



As for the OP.
RE 1989 first MBIAD?
People forget how fast nailing is. And not only do you NOT lose sling or cable "height", but on Moonlight BITD it was common to step right out of the top step onto the pin while jamming with one hand.
There were many MBIAD back in the '70s before people began "fiddling".
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Mar 13, 2013 - 10:47am PT
Ammon, how do you aid climb that fast?
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Hey Couchmaster,

A lot of those answers are in Chris Mac's new book, How to Big Wall Climb

Here's a few short tips, however:

Try minimize the time you are hanging around tinkering with gear. I know this is half the fun, but if you learn how to read the rock while you are climbing your ladders then you can have the proper piece in your hand ready to plug as you're standing up on your last rung. Try and think several moves ahead of the game, very much like chess.

Test your gear and GO! On dicey placements, don't hang around with thoughts of falling, slowing you down. Embrace the fall, do the best you can NOT to fall but don't get so sketched that is all you are thinking about.

Free climb as much as you can. Don't stay so locked into free climbing that you start getting super pumped, but don't be afraid of getting out of your aiders and free climbing. You go much faster freeing than standing in aiders, so try to get used to the flow of getting in and out of them quite frequently. If it looks like just a short section of aid or hard free moves, try just french freeing past that section.

And, last but not least... Stay organized. Don't let the cluster slow you down. Because it will and only compounds the situation and can start a downward spiral.

When McCray and I did three walls in a day in Zion (aid and free), we were actually going to go for five that day. We were working in Las Vegas and that was our only day off in ten days, we left work at midnight and headed to Zion. We got three hours of sleep when we started and was just too tired to finish the last two easy routes we had planned, Touchstone and Space Shot. Wish we could have done it a bit differently and could have been more fresh. Oh well, time to get in shape and try again.

Allfrey! CONGRATS on all your latest adventures. Super badass!

Congrats to Tommy and Alex for climbing four walls, free in a day. Unbelievable!

Cheers!
Kristoffer

climber
Coronado, California
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
"Oh well, time to get in shape and try again."
Damn straight!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
The obvious next thing in speed and link ups is to do them on-sight. I did a couple walls that way, including the 2nd one day ascent of El Cap and it was a far more exciting game.

JL
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Mar 24, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
Largo, I think most (except a small few) of Ammons speed records are on sight. Most (except one) of mine are too.


Is the speed record on Epinephrine really only 1 hour and 6 minutes? Seems like it must be less..I did it in 1h3m the other day and that was my first time on the route in several years.



I think the future if speed climbing and pushing is in the mountains. Yosemite is a training ground, learn the tricks to go fast, then learn to apply it to a different environment (different weather, route, conditions, anchors, etc). The mountains are the test. We did this on the east face of Fitz Roy this winter, it was awesome.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 24, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
Wow! Your 2 man time on moonlight is almost as quick as honnolds FS time, very impressive!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:00am PT
Wow great post thanks for bumping this
WBraun

climber
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:09am PT
ElCapPirate -- "but if you learn how to read the rock while you are climbing your ladders then you can have the proper piece in your hand ready to plug as you're standing up on your last rung."

Yep .... the intelligent use of peripheral vision is the root and key to speed climbing ......
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:32am PT
Just do what Alex and Tommy do and free them... a lot faster? Need to do more pull-ups tho. For traneing.
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