Dear Climbers working the Venturi Effect.

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Messages 1 - 48 of total 48 in this topic

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 19, 2011 - 02:38am PT

Dear Rock Climbers Recently on the Venturi Effect,

I commend your efforts of trying to rock climb the Venturi Effect. YOu are sure to add a sweet sendto your 8a account. I understand this is a hard route. However, there are other rock climbers Out there who would like to try to climb this wonderful route, in the mountains, without the step by step move by move tick mark beta. A tick or two on a crux is an understandable thing, unfortunately you have grafittied the route from bottom to top with massive chalky ticks. You have ruined and degraded the rock climbing experience for those of us who believe in true and pure onsite rock climbing experices. Regardless of the route difficulty, If you require that many tick marks to succeed (literally every move of every pitch) then you are probably nOt good enough in the first place.. Save your thousands of ticks for the gym, keep them out of the mountains.

Thanks.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Aug 19, 2011 - 02:42am PT

Dab!

Waiting for curmudgeon end-of-the-world speeches to commence in 5.... 4.....

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Aug 19, 2011 - 02:47am PT

there are no other rocks to climb on out there?
rocks with no tickmarks?
I'm sure there are... and it's fun to go find them... and you can even keep it secret that you've been out playing with them, we won't hold it against you.

have fun.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Aug 19, 2011 - 02:49am PT

You may want to consider buying a whisk broom, or a soft scrub brush. They're totally dab for removing chalk, grit, and other things. If you want, you can practice on something like the Nose of El Capitan. A real public service, removing all those unsightly tick marks.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

Aug 19, 2011 - 02:53am PT

You have ruined ... the rock climbing experience for those of us who believe in true and pure ... rock climbing.

Then stfu and go find something else to climb.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Aug 19, 2011 - 02:58am PT

This would be more rad with pixxxx!

Hopefully rain will wash it out? The person that would do that would probably be someone that is not used to the sierra ethic, maybe a pro climber doing a video shoot or something. They will wash away soon, too bad it bummed you out. The whole "climb something else" discussion doesn't really work when you hike all the way out there for a route of that size/difficulty, likely weeks of training for it specifically and psych/momentum.

Trip report? Sendage? Do something else while waiting for chalk to disintegrate?

bergbryce

Mountain climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Aug 19, 2011 - 03:07am PT

I vote that tick marks all over that route is LAME.
The go climb something else argument is weak too if that's the route this guy was preppin' for.
I'll probably never climb that route, but if I showed up and Red Dihedral was covered in ticks the whole way up, I'd be pissed too.

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Aug 19, 2011 - 03:25am PT

was the climb just too easy for you with the ticks?

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Aug 19, 2011 - 03:34am PT

The person that would do that would probably be someone that is not used to the sierra ethic...

Not spewing tick marks is a 'Sierra ethic' now? And it's acceptable every where else? That is news...

tinker b

climber

the commonwealth

Aug 19, 2011 - 07:37am PT

i think i know the culprit. he lives on the eastside and has his own ethic. he is a good guy, but has just thought things out differently the most people who live in the mountains. next time i see him i will give him sh#t, but in a good hearted way. i think that tick marks are lame it stops people from really getting to know the rock, looking for the man made marks instead of getting in tune with what is already there. i agree that you shouldn't have to find another route. tick marks are annoying at the boulders, but in an alpine setting it is unexceptable. especially as these are, everywhere.

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Aug 19, 2011 - 08:18am PT

when the pointer finger dies,
accusations have no vector toom follow.

Gunkie

Trad climber

East Coast US

Aug 19, 2011 - 10:32am PT

I wish I had photos, but I have found significant tick marks on 5.7 cruxes in the Gunks. Guides pointing the way for their chubby clientele? Over zealous gym climbers out in the sun for a day? Bigfoot?

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Aug 19, 2011 - 10:48am PT

They tell me that all indoor gym routes are entirely marked (ticked) so it's no surprise that the practice has migrated outdoors. Fortunately, chalk is not permanent.

martygarrison

Trad climber

Washington DC

Aug 19, 2011 - 11:02am PT

not going to get into the tics but this vid is really cool. Been up there a few times, (not this route), it is such a sweet place.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs&feature=player_embedded#!

Morgan

Trad climber

East Coast

Aug 19, 2011 - 11:08am PT

Photoshop is really good for removing tickmarks.

redrocker

climber

Aug 19, 2011 - 11:59am PT

Thanks for the link martygarrison. Awesome video.

Croft strolling unroped on the tiny, slanting summit at about the 1:40 mark. Yikes!!

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Aug 19, 2011 - 12:21pm PT

And it's acceptable every where else?

Nope. Don't be hatin' son, you know what I meant.

WBraun

climber

Aug 19, 2011 - 12:25pm PT

I hate tick marks.

They're fuking lame and stupid.

People that tick a whole crux section are blind.

Buy some fuking glasses.

And if you have to tick mark in the Sierras you're even lamer .....

Mtnmun

Trad climber

Top of the Mountain Mun

Aug 19, 2011 - 12:41pm PT

At least use pretty colored tape. ;^)

Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber

City of Salt

Aug 19, 2011 - 01:14pm PT

I had a guy at Maple Canyon last weekend tell me that he thought a specific route wasn't properly prepared because he found a hold without a tick mark and it perhaps cost him an onsight. Really.

squishy

Mountain climber

sacramento

Aug 19, 2011 - 01:16pm PT

wtf is a tick mark?

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Aug 19, 2011 - 01:18pm PT

I believe he was the one unprepared, Mike.

James

climber

My twin brother's laundry room

Sep 12, 2011 - 12:30am PT

I heard that one of the people who complained about the ticks got schooled on the route...maybe the ticks weren't so bad.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Sep 12, 2011 - 12:40am PT

I heard you can father a child with a turkey baster.

Captain...or Skully

climber

or some such

Sep 12, 2011 - 12:42am PT

If ya wanta....Go for it.
There's no tickmarks that way, I've heard.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Sep 12, 2011 - 12:44am PT

I wonder what grade ticks are acceptable at?

Like, If I wanted to head out and try Postive Vibes, would that be cool? I can do every move on it, but it is out of my league at this point... just tick the hand holds/good jams on the crux pitches, then send? Is an 11a a good place to start ticking, or is it 12d?

Either way, I think I'll train hard and try it next year. I'm probably just too lazy to try something if it takes more than one go. lol.

mcreel

climber

Barcelona

Sep 12, 2011 - 09:21am PT

I've always been amused by tick marks on 4 move boulder problems. Talk about a short attention span!

Trad climber

sj, ca

Sep 12, 2011 - 09:57am PT

I'll bite--

Tick marks are chalk marks made by the holds and features of a climb, a la tape on plastic holds at the gym. They are used so the climber knows where to go next. Fine indoors, not so great outside.

jfs

Trad climber

Upper Leftish

Sep 12, 2011 - 10:12am PT

How about leaving your fixed line on the entirety of Sunspot Dihedral so you can mini-traxion it to your little heart's content. Yup. 800 feet of fixed line on a classic "alpine" line...

Lame.

Oh but don't worry...it's mostly outta the way for other folks that wanna climb it...

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Sep 12, 2011 - 10:12am PT

I had a tick mark on my arm after climbing in the Black last Spring.

Adamame

climber

Santa Cruz

Sep 12, 2011 - 10:53am PT

When I climbed Freeblast this spring it was covered in those tick things. I felt like my fall-less ascent was invalid. I sent because of the ticks but would have liked to have done without them. I felt great when it rained them off before the would be Freeriders could go for it.

spenchur

climber

oak park

Sep 12, 2011 - 11:13am PT

I heard that one of the people who complained about the ticks got schooled on the route...maybe the ticks weren't so bad.

ohhh ouch. maybe the goal was to get the more ethical shutdown?

micronut

Trad climber

fresno, ca

Sep 12, 2011 - 11:22am PT

Tickmarks huh? Its a mountain. Go UP. If you aren't sure where to go next, I would recommend.....somewhere above you.

A to Z

climber

Bishop, CA

Sep 12, 2011 - 12:18pm PT

Have you ever seen tick marks in the "wrong" spot and moved them to the "correct" spot. This is always fun. Even more fun to watch afterwards.

Alex Baker

climber

Portland

Sep 12, 2011 - 12:24pm PT

How do you know where the good holds are if they aren't ticked?

Mustang

climber

From the wild, not the ranch

Sep 12, 2011 - 12:35pm PT

Wow, Really? There's ticks in the high country? On Venturi effect?

Just better make sure you don't get bitten. Lyme disease sucks....

The reality is as so well put to me recently, "We are training, there are no ethics in training". WTF??????

So go climb the venturi effect this weekend if you have a regular job, the rain has washed it clean of chalk by now for sure.

The utter lameness of modern climbers' ethics, all inclusive guide books, gyms, spew forums and retailers have created the problem, the dorks don't know any better....

wally Fox

climber

Sep 12, 2011 - 01:23pm PT

I had the pleasure of climbing positive vibes while the fixed line was up (is it still up?). I really enjoyed the top where I had to go over the fixed line, it really enhanced my experience.

James

climber

My twin brother's laundry room

Sep 12, 2011 - 01:31pm PT

ugh- the hulk isn't an alpine rock

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Sep 12, 2011 - 01:36pm PT

In that case, I guess there is no alpine rock in the continental US.

The Alpine

Big Wall climber

Sep 12, 2011 - 02:02pm PT

The only truth is that the Hulk is being loved to death.

the kid

Trad climber

fayetteville, wv

Sep 12, 2011 - 02:17pm PT

AGREED...
the cover shot with Leo on his el cap meter piece is kinda of a joke. yes he did it without many bolts, but please..

Monkey-sa

Trad climber

Bishop, CA

Sep 12, 2011 - 04:19pm PT

At least you werent out there when they had a fix line on it for a week!

happiegrrrl

Trad climber

www.climbaddictdesigns.com

Sep 12, 2011 - 04:50pm PT

All right, I've got BaRILLiant new idea! REMOVABLE "InstaTick" TICK MARKS!

Removable InstaTick(tm) Tick Marks make your day at the crags as dab as a hardcore sesh at the rock wall. Made of heavy-duty, yet very ligh-weight vinyl, our InstaTicks are easily, and temporarily attached to outside rock walls with a gummy bit of plastic not unlike Silly Puddy.

The leader simply rappels the line, placing InstaTicks to show the way for others. Makes climbing safer, less stressful and more fun!

Available in
*Purist White
*Blue Route Blue
Go For It Green
*Way Rad Red
*XTreme Black

Each set contains 24 InstaTicks, enough for 12 feet of runout radness, and comes with a free InstaTick Tickmark Dispenser! Combine kits for longer routes. Just $24.99 a set!

(yes, I know dab was incorrect usage, but we are going for laughs here)

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Joshua Tree

Sep 12, 2011 - 05:45pm PT

Sorry Happi, The Hubers beat you to the removable ticks about 10 years ago on El Nino. They used little white tape dots, which Houlding and Pickles then played connect the dots with on the 2nd shortly after.

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Sep 12, 2011 - 05:52pm PT

If you used bright orange spray paint they would last longer and be easier to see.

Off White

climber

Tenino, WA

Sep 12, 2011 - 06:25pm PT

Mighty Hiker said: They're totally dab for removing chalk, grit, and other things.

Uh, gramps, I mean, err Anders? Dab is when your foot tags the ground while you're doing the heinous sit start to some savage boulder problem, and those things are all tick marked to hell by the latest least generation anyways. It's not considered a compliment nor is it equivalent to "bitchen".

Perhaps the term you were grasping for is "boss" or maybe "the cat's meow".