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Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic |
bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2006 - 10:17pm PT
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Here's one for you bro! Remember that sheeet! cheers, jb
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Feb 26, 2006 - 10:35pm PT
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Kids, don't try this at home!!!
Bad ass Werner...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 10:48pm PT
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Ain't been called the Bhagwan fer nuthin'
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2006 - 10:58pm PT
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Hahaha
Holy sh_it John where'd you get that photo!
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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Old 1988 Stonemaster Climbing Calendar - back cover! Bob Gaines photo - ring any bells? cheers, jb
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:03pm PT
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Never saw the calendar John, but I remember Bob doing the shot.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2006 - 11:16pm PT
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:20pm PT
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Yikes!
Drug dome
I've never even heard there was a calendar like this Wow, cool.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
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'nother V0+ way, way high ball is all...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2006 - 11:26pm PT
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Check the bouldering pad at the bottom! heh heh jb
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Yorba Linda, CA
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
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Wow. That last one took my breath away.
By the way, Werner, do you know a guy named John Rosendall? He just turned 50. He's a physic professor that I do work for at UCI. He said that he met you once in the valley and asked you to go climing. You asked him how hard he climbed and he responded that he led 5.10 and followed 5.11. Then he said that you said "nah" and in such a way that you didn't want to waste your time on "easy stuff." Anyways, just wondered if you remembered him or if he ever did get to go climbing with you. (He free solos 5.11 now...)
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
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Yep nice rock pad at the base for the hard rock climber.
None of that soft pussy pad sh_it these modern guys use. eh.
Roy? how are your tendons?
Rosenthal yes know him real well, roomates for a while in mammoth and when he was here on SAR. John Rosendall I don't recall.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:30pm PT
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no bigger than a sponge...
bachars crash pad I mean.
tendons: mmm, I get out,like a couple hours ago I did a 2pitch 5.7 highball on castle rock but, but...
'glad to be around man, thanks W.
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mastadon
Trad climber
Seattle
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:33pm PT
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Werner- I like the knee socks. Ha!!
Nice scan, JB.......
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2006 - 11:36pm PT
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Tube socks WITH stripes!!! No woman can resist that sheeet...as you know Don!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:43pm PT
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John put up that photo of you on "Tunnel Vision"
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:48pm PT
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Is this Bachar the real Bachar?
Juanito
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 26, 2006 - 11:55pm PT
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Juan de-
Easy does it 'G, this hood is crawlin' with Trolls...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2006 - 01:32am PT
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Werner - Can't find tunnel Vision...this one's funny - The Iwa To Juki magazine, Feb. 1980!
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Feb 27, 2006 - 02:28am PT
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"A mans got ta know his limitations" Clint E.
Werner can you believe it? ROTF!
omg John i so remember those days..HIGHBALL!
jow
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2006 - 02:33am PT
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Werner - Check you out G....using Zen and sheeat! wow....heh heh, jb
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 27, 2006 - 11:08am PT
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Juan... yes. who else would post those golf pants? even Walling wouldn't.
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 27, 2006 - 12:33pm PT
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Awesome pics, bachar!!
Thanks for sharing!
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pc
climber
Eastside
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Feb 27, 2006 - 12:40pm PT
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You guys need to eat something...
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nb3000
Gym climber
Oakland, CA.
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Feb 27, 2006 - 12:41pm PT
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Werner = gangsta
friggin awesome
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Feb 27, 2006 - 12:42pm PT
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j.b...my tea just went everywhere veiwing that last one!
ZENzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
W. B. "I came,I climbed,I departed". ;)
ZENnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
G.H. "When Werner climbs,Grant gets pumpy". ;)
For Juan; there is only one j.b.. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzen
who is
-now back to my tea
jow
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Feb 27, 2006 - 12:51pm PT
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I wish someone would scan Valley Boys the rolling Stones article and post it!
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426
Sport climber
Holy Roller. LRC. TN.
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Feb 27, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
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How about the old "Muscle and Fitness" expose on the Valley Boys. Anyone remember that classic? Circa '89 iirc.
Started me off following "the way". Strayed alot from that...
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susan peplow
climber
area 29
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Feb 27, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
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Jobee,
Where ya been? Now that you can log serious surf time no see no hear of ya.
What's with that?
xo,
S
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2006 - 02:19pm PT
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Werner - found Tunnel Vision (bad scan)...
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 27, 2006 - 02:23pm PT
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John it looks good, it gives the perspective.
This is a route that ranks up there with the likes of the Phoenix and MoonGerms.
These all are very serious test pieces.
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hardman
Trad climber
the valley
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Feb 27, 2006 - 03:26pm PT
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hey Werner,
is that the 1st generation iPod? ;)
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 27, 2006 - 03:28pm PT
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How would I know I can't hear? I brought it up for Bob Gains.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
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Werner - you took that photo of Tunnel Vision! You're a professional.....heh heh, jb
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 27, 2006 - 04:36pm PT
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With your camera. Me a pro? hahaha
You got pissed at me because I cut off your feet in one shot on that climb.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Wicked gravity.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Tunnel Vision bump. Any stories out there? Classic red 2" swami and EBs with brown leather panels.
Nice to have a reminder of JB.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
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I sure enjoyed interacting with JB here on ST. Miss him.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nice Tarbuster.
This thread is golden.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Holy crap Tunnel Vision looks rad!!
Any more photos or details!!
Lets hear the scoop.
Luke
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Yeah where is it
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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John Bachar on the first ascent of Tunnel Vision 5.12d, 1982. Very overhanging, very technical jams.
John did not get it on the first day, but got it on the second day. Some years later, Peter Croft onsighted it.
Thanks to Werner for sharing all these details.
[Werner's edited overlay of Ed's original photo and overlay]
It is just left of Gait of Power, far left of Separate Reality.
Access via the ventilation tunnel from the long 120 tunnel (park on the uphill end and walk down the sidewalk).
The ventilation tunnel is large - I've seen tourists walk in it.
There is a grate at the end which is easy to slide under.
You rap down to the slab below, then easy traverse left and one more rap to the base.
You could leave a fixed line on the rap in case you can't get up the crack.
Side view from Edge of Absurdity.
Side view of Tunnel Vision and Gait of Power from the ventilation tunnel exit. See the overlay below.
P.S. Judging from the photo on the previous page, the topo is incomplete - it only shows the upper 5.12c section.
[Edit:] We discussed the details of the photo with Dean Fidelman, and cleared up a misunderstanding. It is a photo which Werner took with John's camera.
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