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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 18, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
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It just kinda happened and it was great!
It is soooo great to have Donini as an old friend!
It is also good to have Brokedownclimber and Jan as new friends.
Donini rolled in from an extended trip in the Wind Rivers, Jan had to fly to the U.S. to get a new driver’s license, and Brokedown was willing to get Jan up to speed on climbing.
What’s not to like?
Heidi and I liked Donini dragging us up easy routes.
We all liked meeting new and old friends at City of Rocks.
Much more to follow!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 18, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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Sweet I gotta make it to the City one of these days.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Aug 18, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
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Timing is everthing. I'll groove on yer photos, though. D'oh.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 12:00am PT
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Skully! Wish you could have made it to "The City" Next year for sure!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:03am PT
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Keep it coming,
Z
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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hey there say, fritz.... say, thanks for this really neat share...
say, i will be back for the pics, later...
got to get off line now, got to use the phone and finish up the night, kids are coming at 7 am, ... friends of my grandkids and maybe even the grandkids, too, :)
god bless...
thanks again, for the share! perfect timeing it was, wow!
glad you had a great time... :)
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:02am PT
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Here's some more incriminating evidence of the oldfartdom that rules!
First clinb of the day for Tuesday afternoon (in the shade). donini was in fine form here. The "Z-Crack" on King on the Throne was donini's first choice for the session at sandbag 5.9.
From the Z-Crack donini moved to Snakes and Ladders at 5.9. We all tried to follow this one with variable success.
Then it was my turn:
And then Heidi tried this one too:
We all had a great time on this rock, but the grading was conservative on these routes. I know; I'm sore!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:07am PT
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What’s not to like?
The part about Jan having to travel from Okinawa to the continental US, just to renew her driver's licence? That seems absurd.
Nice report!
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jstan
climber
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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Sounds like an excuse.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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Nice trip report. Sounds like a fun time. Foods?
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:18am PT
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Good to see a photo of my good friend Kim Miller,
one of the legends of Utah and Idaho truly, and my dear
friend for many years. Kim truly "rocks" on the rock,
leads 5.12 without much thought about it. He's standing
near Brokedown in that campfire shot with everyone...
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Dudeman
Trad climber
Idaho/Beyond
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:57am PT
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Fritz and Brokedown nice story and pics! You guys rule! Very humbling experience to hang with a group of such talented yet gracious rock stars.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 19, 2011 - 02:53am PT
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always great to see you all out on the rock!
keep on keeping on!
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Aug 19, 2011 - 03:13am PT
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How cool can it get!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 19, 2011 - 04:05am PT
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Kim, you have always been the most modest of climbers, but I have
watched you lead 5.12, without a whimper. You are a master and my
brother in crime (I am the one now who aspires to... 5.8....)
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MH2
climber
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Aug 19, 2011 - 04:09am PT
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over-50 what?
Nice get-together.
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Aug 19, 2011 - 09:17am PT
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The City is da bomb!!! Can't wait to get back there again. Thanks for sharing!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Aug 19, 2011 - 09:56am PT
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Nice, TFPU, good to see some really strong senior citizens....:)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Aug 19, 2011 - 10:00am PT
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SWEET!!
That Donini creep sure gets around.....
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Aug 19, 2011 - 10:59am PT
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Ah what an awesome gathering. Looks like a good time was had by all. I would have died to be there figuratively as well as possibly literally. Next time I want to be there. You guys rock!
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Aug 19, 2011 - 11:11am PT
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Great photos!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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Donini drove in from the Tetons and Heidi & I met him late afternoon on Sunday, Brokedown & Jan stopped by in the evening about the same time RKM did.
We had major thunderstorm activity both south and north of us, but it was just windy for us.
The next morning was very smoky due to several large brush fires kicked off by lightning strikes well to the west of us.
Brokedown & Jan went off to restart Jan into climbing, while the rest of us went up to the Decadent Wall. Jim warmed Heidi & me up on Adolescent Homo-sapien, then Carol’s Crack, while RKM & his son socialized.
RKM explained he had a bad knee and was soon due for knee surgery and couldn’t climb.
Around noon we met Dave & Norene, then Dudeman & Chalk Jockey showed up.
We all ended up climbing side by side routes on the Decadent Wall. Jim led up a route called 5.8, that Heidi & I couldn't follow, while the others swarmed up a 10a and three 11a routes. RKM mentioned he was "feeling frisky" and disappeared. We soon saw him free-soloing Adolescent Homo-sapien.
It finally got a little warm in the afternoon sunlight, and we all moved down to the shady-side of Elephant Rock to finish out the day.
Dinner was a fun party with a sweet surprise desert, when RKM and his wife & son showed up with a bunch of cups of tasty pudding from the Almo Outpost resturant.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 19, 2011 - 11:59am PT
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I had a great time, as always, with Fritz and Heidi, and thoroughly enjoyed meeting new friends. Looking forward to Facelift!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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Sweet days a the COR! I hope to make it next year.
Nice of Donini to put those bold TRs up for you Fritz.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
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This is Jan posting from Brokedown's place in Wyoming.
I've had a wonderful time meeting up with Brokedown for the first time in 46 years and learning all about the new fangled climbing devices - sticky rubber, harnesses, belay devices and how to use them. I even managed to drag myself up a few feet of 5.7, wore the skin off my fingertips on the gritty granite, and got hooked on rock climbing again!
As for the driving license, it's really true that a military bureaucrat decided that long time civilians in Okinawa needed to fly to the States to get an American license driving on the right hand side of the road in order to renew their Okinawa military licences for driving some more on the left hand side of the road. I figure the new driver's license will have cost me $4,000.
Best part of the whole escapade? Having fun at the City of Rocks!
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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Very nice, thanks for these posts which stir my memory in a good way.
Z crack is certainly a Stout 5.9.
Snakes and Ladders is one of my favorite climbs there. I've always seen it
listed as 5.8. Maybe 5.9 is more realistic.
It appears that Jim led Z crack and then set up a top rope on Snakes and
Ladders. This implies to me that not everybody got to do the wonderful
descent route from King on the Throne.
I 'll describe it:
from Snakes and Ladders, circle behind the King, climb down a few easy
moves by his left ear, step across to his left shoulder, walk down to his
collarbone and traverse to his right shoulder. Step across to the throne
again, then stem and chimney to the ground between the King and his throne.
You will be at the start of Snakes and Ladders.
The climb several feet right of Carol's Crack is just about as good as
Carol's, and I've never seen it listed in a guide.
There is also a delightful circuitous descent from the Decadent Wall
climbs which is used by only a small portion of climbers. Much more
enjoyable than the rappel routes commonly used. It can be slow the first
time, before you remember all the turns, then it's really fast.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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The "Z-Crack" on King on the Throne was donini's first choice for the session at sandbag 5.9.
Ahh, ain't no sandbag at 5.9...stay high right for an extra move...easy as pie...ha ha.
Snakes and Ladders is 5.8...!
I remember the first Bingham guide that had the mantle problem on the back side of King on the Throne at 5.8+. I think the current guide has it at 5.12a or some such. Too funny.
Great TR!! Geez, maybe in a few years I'll qualify for hangin' with you guys (at least age-wise)...
Fun stuff. Thanks!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
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Anybody know if there is any relationship between the Carol's Crack at the City and the Carol's Crack at Devil's Tower?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
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Scuffy, shame on you to think that I would set up a top rope on Snakes And Ladders sans climbing- maybe I'll have to do that next year. Brian, there isn't much I would call sandbag in a relatively "soft" are like COR, but there are some, but, I agree, Z Crack isn't one of them.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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i grew up in Boise in the 1950s
so far as i knew at the time, i was the only person in idaho interested in rock climbing
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Conner
Mountain climber
Donnelly, Idaho
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
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Great TR. I've been living in Idaho since 2007 and finally got my first glimpse of COR. Jello and I had a wonderful week this year in early June at Kim's place. It is so beautiful there and the weather was perfect, even the little snow storm only added to the ambience. What a treasure... we can't wait til next time.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Aug 19, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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I'm sorry, Jim.
I misled myself, fooled by the toprope setup.
I've done the climb many times, and I always plop myself behind a barrier
at the top and bring my partner up.
That way, I never have to make an anchor.
How was my description of the descent?
You didn't rappel off, did you?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 19, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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I'm still trying to figure out the "City" grading standards relative to other areas; I referred to both the current Bingham guidebook as well as "Mountain Project" website for these ratings.
Re: Mountain Project; Z-Cracks: 5.9+ (consensus), and Snakes and Ladders: 5.8+ (consensus) versus "official site rating" at 5.9-. Bingham's guidebook simply lists both as "5.9."
Fritz certainly made a very strong showing on both of these climbs, as did Heidi; I merely struggled on Snakes and Ladders for several moves up the route. It really sucks to be both old and out of shape!
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Aug 19, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
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I'm pretty sure Bingham's older guides list Snakes and Ladders as 5.8, and
I have always thought there's a real difference between those two climbs.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 19, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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Scuffy-
I'm using the newest Bingham guidebook, the 7th Edition. There are several changes in it from earlier editions, re: grades of described climbs.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 19, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Looks like fun. Thanks for posting. I gotta get out there - haven't yet.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 19, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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Just playing the odds, is late September a reasonable time weather wise to go to City of Rocks?
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Aug 19, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
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Yes, Darwin.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
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Scuffy b Re your mention:
The climb several feet right of Carol's Crack is just about as good as
Carol's, and I've never seen it listed in a guide.
It is in Dave Bingham's 2009 guide as Divine Decedance 5.9. The question is: how many people climb it and think it is Carol's Crack? We think we may have made that mistake last year.
Spider: It is great to have Donini as our rope rocket friend. I do believe he likes being a rope rocket.
Scuffy b: Re your comments on getting off King on a Throne. None of us had ever climbed on it, except our new friend Manolo. He assured Jim the backside rappel route was the way off. We needed you there! Next year?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 19, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
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Looks like yous guys had lots of fun!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
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Day two: at age 62, I was back to being the youngest male climber.
After Heidi and I couldn't get past the crux on Funky Bolt, we wandered over to Morning Glory Spire, aka The Incisor: to climb the classic 5.8 Route, Skyline.
We saw and heard two Spanish speaking climbers, rappelling the route.
They were using a 70 meter rope and ended up a little below where we were starting with our 60 meter ropes.
Donini immediately started making friends, and learned the female climber was from Italy. He explained his ancestors were from Northern Italy and the family name was Donini. Then he started leading the route. At this point the guy Euro climber popped onto our ledge with wide eyes and looking up at Donini, respectfully asked: "is your first name Jim?"
And thus we met Manolo and Francesca: who currently live in Spain. Manolo, age 56, had been hoping to someday meet Donini------- like some people hope to win the lottery. He was pretty happy, and hung around until we all got down from the route. Somewhere along the way: we invited them to visit for dinner and red wine, and they agreed on the visit and wine, but politely declined dinner, since they were not on our eating schedule.
Our female Idaho rope-rocket friend Kim also showed up for dinner and climbing the next day. Kim wasn’t much help on drinking our remaining 5 bottle stock of red wine, but somehow it disappeared during the party.
It was an early start day. Jim wanted to climb with Manolo, and I had previously whined to Kim that the summer would not be complete if we didn’t climb The Lost Arrow. We split up after breakfast and Heidi, Kim, & I trudged the two miles (or so) into The Lost Arrow.
It was great! I had fun! We all had fun on the 5.7 route, and free rappel. I hate rappelling, and it was still fun!
As our penalty for having Kim do an easy route: she then marched us to a nearby 12a Sport Climb named Power Pig.
She set a top rope, and I got to be her belay slave, while she sport-routed the problem for a while. She got up it a satisfactory number of times, and asked us if we wanted to try. Heidi tried, and I didn’t.
After the hot hike up and out to our car: we got to visit with Jan, Brokedown, and Francesca, but Jim & Manolo were still climbing in the late afternoon.
Hey Donini: What did you fellows climb?
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Aug 19, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
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Fritz, it has always seemed to me that Divine Decadence was another line
further right than that crack, but then I've always thought some of the
City topos are flawed.
If that's Divine Decadence, then I will recommend it to anyone, with a
clear conscience.
At any rate, I always like to do both climbs.
I'd love to join in. A little prodding would do wonders.
Kelsey and Chuck Schaap showed me some cool things there, eg the descents I
mentioned, and I also spent a lot of days there by myself, wandering and
wondering
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Aug 19, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
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It's a good place to do that, too, Scuff.
Excellent tale & pics, there, Fritz.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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Scuffy B. Re:
I'd love to join in. A little prodding would do wonders.
Kelsey and Chuck Schaap showed me some cool things there, eg the descents I
mentioned, and I also spent a lot of days there by myself, wandering and
wondering
Next year for sure!
Email me and stay in touch.
I think we all want a small gathering of "like-minded" friends.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 20, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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COR looks so good. Wonderful thread, Fritz.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 20, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
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I have good memories of climbing with Kim Miller in
Boulder and Utah, even at City of Rocks, where we stayed
at his mansion, I mean... cabin... Kim would pass through
Colorado on business and always look me up, and he always
wanted to climb the hardest routes in Eldorado, at least the classic
hard ones, such as NW Corner of the Bastille and Vertigo,
all of which he led without a hesitation... Then he would
be off to fit in an ascent of the Naked Edge. He soloes all
those routes at the City, on a regular basis, but you'd never
know it, because he is one of those truly modest fellows
who doesn't ever talk about what he does. He was one of the
best in Utah back in the beginning, when his only competition
was Greg Lowe....
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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Thanks all for posting up.
Despite being "somewhat incapacitated" by three days of climbing: I went off to the mountains to collect "minerals at altitude" this weekend.
Summer is nearly over------damn!
Best wishes to Donini, Brokedown, and Jan for a great time at City of Rocks!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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One last Donini COR photo to share.
Hoping to hear more comments?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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I'm just a bit sorry that our timing is off.
So far.....;-)
Cheers.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 23, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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This is Jan again and I just have to announce it!
I passed my Wyoming driver's license this morning! My only error was coming a little too close to the cross walk.
This is all thanks to Brokedowns's patient tutoring over the past week along with loaning me his car to practice in
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It's wasn't easy to reverse the side of the road, the steering wheel, the turn blinkers and windshield wipers after 30 years of driving on the left, while in a car three times bigger than what I drive in Japan.
Somehow Brokedown persevered with me through it all. In one amazing scene I turned onto the wrong side of the road in Douglas while practicing, and was confronted by two lanes of traffic heading directly toward me. I start swearing while Brokedown says ever so quietly and calmly, "You know Jan, you really should be in the other lane". Talk about unflappable!
Meanwhile, in three days I will be back in Japan driving on the left again.
The best part of the trip remains my time at City of Rocks!
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imStein
Trad climber
Triumph, Idaho
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Aug 24, 2011 - 04:24pm PT
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More food photos, Fritz.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Aug 24, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
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Where did you camp?
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Aug 24, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
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oh how cute, look at all the old people climbing...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 24, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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Day two: at age 62, I was back to being the youngest male climber.
Sounds like my kind of group! Thanks for the pics and thread.
John
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
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Thank you all for posting up!
Jan! Great driving stories! Glad you passed, sorry you are back out of our area.
Scuffyb: I can't share the campsite on ST, until I reserve it for next year.
JE: I believe you are just right for this gathering.
Squishy: I can tell you're jealous. Besides, I posted photos of that "Rope Rocket Babe": Kim
imStein: We need you back at "The City" this weekend to add some culture to our "Slop & Gobbles."
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 26, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
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Our cocktail hours were great this past trip, too!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
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Back to the City of Rocks this weekend-thru Monday with our younger rope-rocket buds Kim & Pete, and hopefully imStein for culture and cocktail hour.
Any other Tacos there?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
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Have fun Fritz and dont show off by using one finger in a two finger pocket.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
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Donini: Thanks! You know that I prefer to keep my fingers in my pockets!
Next year for sure! I am looking forward to more punishment!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 27, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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Wow, manolo!
Cool
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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klk: Re Manolo.
I have to mention that the Manolo we be-friended is not: “The MANOLO”.
Our Manolo is from Venezuela and is living in Spain at age 56.
Manolo is about as common as Joe or Pete as a name in Spanish culture.
Manolo was thrilled to meet Donini because: he had spent a lot of time climbing in Patagonia, and is trying to write a history of Patagonia climbing.
As you know: Donini is revered for his “cutting-edge” ascents, by a fair number of Patagonia climbers.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 28, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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Manolo and his lovely friend Francesca were camped in the site adjacent to our site. They were surprised that we were also climbing! Very nice folks and very competent on the rocks.
They were without a car and were suffering from not having brought enough food or a cooler, so Jan and I helped them out with some of our surplus. Very nice neighbors I will add...
We were fortunate to have one of the very nice shady sites.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 28, 2011 - 10:54am PT
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hey there say.... fritz... thanks for the recent share, as well...
:)
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
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We went back down for a long weekend, and had the greatest Lightning storm any of the 6 of us had ever witnessed: on Sunday night.
We also ran into Manolo & Francesca at the Breadloaves parking lot. We thought they were "long gone", but it was the last of their 16 days at COR.
There were thunderstorms to the south of us on Saturday afternoon, but we only got a little rain, accompanied by distant thunder.
Great sunset on Saturday night!
At about noon on Sunday, a good-sized thunderstorm rolled through the southern part of the city, but it only rained lightly where we were climbing at the Breadloaves.
When we retreated to our camp, near Elephant Rock, we experienced a mid-day “Gulley- Washer.”
After that: small thunder-storms kept floating by, but we got a two-hour break for cocktail hour and dinner, while a big storm pounded higher mountains to the north and valleys to the east. The light was great for taking photos!
About dark: the whole western horizon started filling up with lightning flashes. The six of us talked among ourselves, and moved to the “walk-in” camping parking lot, then stood near our vehicles. For about an hour: we were surrounded by hundreds, if not thousands. of lightning strikes.
Heidi and I took about a hundred “hand-held” photos, and got only a few decent results. Kim was using a tripod, and hopefully got some great lightning photos.
When the rain finally hit: the lightning was getting very close.
It was car-time!
Luckily!
I had hung onto a bottle of wine and a glass: to “sit-out” the close lightning strikes and pounding rain.
Heidi had a glass too-----and we toasted to "cheating death by lightning!"
By about 11:00 PM the storm passed, and we crept back to our tent for the calm night.
Yes!
We climbed this morning and a lot on Saturday afternoon.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 29, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
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Climbing essentials: Red wine? Check. Cups? Check. Shelter from the weather? Check. Great company? Essential; check.
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