Edward Whymper- First Ascent of the Aiguille Verte 1865

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Messages 21 - 31 of total 31 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 4, 2012 - 09:04am PT
Steve-

Thanks for posting this, it is a fun read.

The 1896 Whymper guide to Chamonix mentioned above is pretty entertaining on several levels . The birdís eye view drawing of the tiny Chamonix village is worthwhile by itself. Also of interest are the account of the first ascent of Mont Blanc and the line drawings of the Dru and other landmarks. I picked one up from Chessler a few years back.

Here, Whymper gives advice on how to choose a guide.

1. Before engaging a Guide, make inquiry of his antecedents from those who know.
2. Avoid men notorious for accidents.
3. For difficult or long excursions, give preference to men of middle age, rather than to the youngest or oldest.

Sound advice even today when choosing a climbing partner!





213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
Apr 4, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
We had a good laugh up the Voie Charlet-Platonov in 2008

La Verte and the Three
La Verte and the Three
Credit: 213

Somewhere in the middle
Somewhere in the middle
Credit: 213

High above the Nant Blanc and Les Praz
High above the Nant Blanc and Les Praz
Credit: 213

No summit pics, the banner cloud was raging and we almost went down the Y instead of the Whymper in the fog, hehehe.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Apr 4, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
Great post.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
Original school Alpen Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 11:53am PT
Another long overdue bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
Verte Bump...
Degaine

climber
Sep 12, 2016 - 02:03am PT
Another bump, because who can't get enough of the Aiguille Verte:

Credit: JJ
Credit: JJ
Credit: Degaine


South faces L to R: La Verte, Les Droites, and Les Courtes.
Whymper couloir on the Verte visible and filled in.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2018 - 09:29am PT
Marlow's early alpine history trove is available for your edification and perusal here.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1945663/LEquipement-de-lAlpiniste-1900
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 24, 2018 - 09:36am PT
Such an incongruous name for a stud, níest ce pas?
seano

Mountain climber
none
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:40pm PT
Whymper was an engraver by trader; those images were self produced.
Thanks -- I did not know that. He could be amazingly accurate. Check out his engraving of the Ecrins from near the Col du Galibier, compared to a photo:
Ecrins from Scrambles Amongst the Alps
Ecrins from Scrambles Amongst the Alps
Credit: seano
Telephoto, summer 2018
Telephoto, summer 2018
Credit: seano
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Mar 15, 2019 - 12:37pm PT
It's always amused me that Whymper made the first ascent of his eponymous summit of the Grandes Jorasses simply to be able to look across to the Verte to see if it was in condition. He didn't even attach any importance to carrying on to the actual summit, the Point Walker, to make the first ascent of the mountain!

Here's a pic I took from a plane looking into the Whymper couloir at the end of September 2011. The couloir is just right of centre (not the deep couloir further right). It's almost completely bare save for its upper third where it gets a little shade from the Grande Rocheuse. It's not really a couloir at all in its lower part, just rocky slabs...

Credit: jaaan

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