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cintune
climber
Penn's Woods
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Feb 24, 2006 - 01:17pm PT
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Klimmer, yes YES. Awesome image, I cut it out of the insert and stuck it on my wall 20 years ago, it's still there.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 24, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
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JL-
How about a story or two about the early explorations of the faces of Middle Cathedral, routes you did in about 74-5 with guys like George Meyers, Chapman, Worral, etc.I didn't check the guidebook, but weren't you on FA's of routes like Mother Earth, Freewheelin, Quicksilver? Some wild routes on that rock.
Rick
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 24, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
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Cintune-- Thanks for that. Awesome. :-))
Check GM post below. In response . . .
Hey GM-
I could do it. I could go really ballistic and post it SUPERSIZE. Don't tempt me. I'm a very new and dangerous and unstable photobucketer now! LOL
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 24, 2006 - 01:37pm PT
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Doug, that’s exactly what it is, History since getting out of it in ’99. What a great biz though.
It’s a story for sure; probably take up half my book if I ever write one :-)
Hey, I was getting ready for Klimmer full screen version of that picture!
Edit: Werner, that logo is a little to political. Maybe the other is safer here. Since these guys sell topos and all!
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Feb 24, 2006 - 01:42pm PT
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John-
see, you always were large.. I only wore lowa scouts back then.
come on, fess up about the two first ascents, we know that won't be in the book.
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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
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Gramicci
Aw comon man just having some fun, Chris understands, he'll laugh!
Remember! You guys are the "StoneMasters"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 24, 2006 - 02:41pm PT
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Ricky Thanks:
Yes JL, the routes on Middle.
'Would be cool to hear something.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 24, 2006 - 04:06pm PT
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Rick A (a.k.a, Ricky) said: "I did witness the actual Tobin "noose incident," but you gotta save a few for the book!
Actually, Rick, Bachar has already spilled the beans with the Tobin story back in Part II... A truly classic JT insanity, and a great telling!
All this clothing fashion talk (Brand X, Gramicci, Scouts and Alpspitzs, etc.) has got me thinking again about our fashion tastes (or lack thereof). Did anyone else notice from Part III that every picture of some lad in shorts was wearing SHORTS. Way short shorts. Not the saggin', knee-dragging short pants, but real SHORTS! (Was up in Bishop lately looking for some; there wasn't a single pair in East Side. Only knickerbockers that one could 'rebuckle below the knee.' For $80 a pair, too.) Such is the transitory nature of the world of fashion...
I know Graham is looking into the retro clothing thing, so maybe there's hope for us old farts. Me? I'm (at this very moment) wearing a brand-new pair of Onitsuka Tigers, my all time favorite shoe that many of us wore Back in the Day. And my 23 year-old son says they're quite fashionable now. Again.
So maybe committing run-outs, ground-up FAs, roping goats, climbing pants with cuffs, stupid pranks, and perlon nooses will be coming back, too.
One can hope...
"I think we ought to go out and work hard to restore the unsavory image that climbing and climbers had a few years ago."--Ed Leeper
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ladd
Trad climber
land of fruits, nuts and flakes
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Feb 24, 2006 - 04:13pm PT
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hey Kimmer, I'm still YESnnnn after all these years - "owner of a loney heart" ;) Curious to know, did you by chance happen to see Rick Wakeman pull off "The New Gospels" when he was out in Costa Mesa back in the mid 90's sometime? Wakeman's opereta was absolutely fantastic! Seeing ole Wakeman in flowing robes playing keys across from his Son no less - playing out that fine opereta in classical form was a "Journey To The Center Of The Earth".
Cintune, thanks for putting up that pic - realed in a flashback to some great memories. Probably some early trance along with pics the likes of Roger Dean, some ole Flash Gordon movie (somewhere), having what I thought was an enchanted forest for a back yard (repleat with a three story treehouse we built) coupled with being a gymnast in HS - somewhere in all that mix is what compelled me to wanna climb (ahhhhhhh, "thrill of adventure, the agony of defeat") - *shrugs*, could have also been the Sirens of Titan...
I've got a stonemaster story or two I could throw in. Actually, I posted one of them back before these Stonemaster threads kicked in - I told a story about a strange encounter of the close kind with Largo whilst A3 on Piasano Pinnicle no less - this was back before JL freed the motha... Not sure what thread, but I was motivated by a pic I saw of Paisano from "Cracko"?
The Valhalla finish on route of same - those jugs you pass through, where like the crowning gates of glory for us. With a loud and lowly Viking voice, resonating the word "valllllllhallllahhhhhhhh" - man, like blowing the resounding Viking horn. The legend of Stonemaster was passed on to me and my other Viking pards (Matson, Petersen) whilst down for an extended climb/surf weekend in San Diego. We happened to meet up with Eppie and DE at some bouldering spot - thinking it was Santee or Magnolia? Anyways, we climbed together for the rest of the day, and chased over to DE's place where we got into the must of Vahalla. So on the roundabout drive back to San Clemente, by way of Suicide - there we were climbing through the rites of passage on Vahalla. I'm trying to recollect - it must have been in the early 80's, seemed like every climber yah met was like having another brother or sister - hangin in humbler park.
cheers
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 24, 2006 - 04:16pm PT
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I wonder how many ascents of Space Babble have occured, with or without a noosed goat.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 24, 2006 - 06:11pm PT
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One of the things I've always been curious about is the generation before us (Charlie Raymond, Pat Callis, etc.) who did many first ascents at Suicide. I never met any of those guys and never heard their stories.
I think Pat's still makin' stories (!). Took chemistry from him in...uhh...1980...at MSU. Still up there. Still doin' it. Ran into him climbing at the City of Rocks in Idaho last summer or summer before. Told him I'd done the Pulpit in Zion and clipped a few of his bolts (their warm up before he, Beckey and Rowell climbed the Great White Throne, as it was raining, er something). His wife said, "those things still in the rock?". Funny. Quite the mish mash of hardware, most seemed kinda still maybe bomber (sorta).
He penned a very funny story about ice climbing in Montana in the "Big Sky Ice" guidebooks. "Malted mooseballs". Hilarious. Involved experimenting with whiskey and ice climbing. Great read.
Anyhoo, more stuff on Pat below...Obie Wan to some of the Bozone lads...to be sure...
-Brian in SLC
http://www.chemistry.montana.edu/callis.html/
http://www.outsidebozeman.com/magazine.php?action=fullArticle&articleID=43
From Denali NPS 1993 summary report: Americans Terry Kennedy and Pat Callis climbed a new route on the SW Face of Kahiltna Peaks East summit.
http://www.trailrunnermag.com/features/feature%2018.html
"The 2002 Tour de Hyalite attracted more than 70 competitors -- the biggest turnout yet. Among the competitors was 64-year-old Pat Callis, a local climbing legend who has competed in all but one of the Tour de Hyalite events."
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 24, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
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For starters, there's no book in the works about The Stonemasters. But there's some other stuff that Mike G. and I are fiddlig around with and we'll let you know once it rounds into shape. We definately need photos for anyone who has them. I'll post a thread to that effect soon.
Tarbuster wrote:
Ricky Thanks:
Yes JL, the routes on Middle.
'Would be cool to hear something.
I'm too tired to scribble anything out just now but give me a day or so. The really interesting story is the first ascent of Stoner's Highway. That's before any of us knew what the hell we were doing. After that (re: Quicksliver, Mother Earth, Black Primo, etc..) we were pretty dialed -- but not on Stoner's. We didn't have a clue.
JL
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 24, 2006 - 07:44pm PT
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Yeah, we don't really want to explore the "noosed goat" strand, do we? Mr. Harrison?
(Where the heck are you?) And, thinking about Richard and silly things like the Bridge Traverse up Baldy Canyon--how many people got injured flying off that bit of buildering? And, where is Terry Goodykuntz? (I've seen Dutzi around Clareville several times in the past 20 years.)
But for the complete record on the Goat, we must include this very recent oddity:
Hey, it's news.bbc.co.uk... Must be OK, right?.
(Duck and run.)
We now return you to your regular Stonemaster forum...
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pc
climber
Eastside
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Feb 24, 2006 - 07:50pm PT
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Was there a council of elders in the Stonemasters? Would you have "ruled" similarly? Too funny
;)
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 24, 2006 - 08:04pm PT
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Depends on the legal age of consent for goats... Plus, we'd also have to consider the kids.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Feb 24, 2006 - 11:18pm PT
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Part IV: Beneath the Planet of the Stonemasters.
Kidding! Come on, there must be a few dozen more good stories. I'm tapped out but I'll pass this memory along. My first climbing partner and I were descending Tahquitz along the South Face in 1972-3 (?). As we passed the Ski Tracks we saw a party high up on a traversing route we surmised was Sling Swing Traverse. The climber was a lanky guy with long hair that I've always assumed was Rob Muir. From below the route looked totally blank and dead vertical, but he was super smooth. Suddenly he exclaims: "This is really pleasant!" We cracked up. Wow! That guy must be really good! So for months afterward to break the tension whenever things started to look grim, we'd let out with a "This is really pleasant!"
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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2006 - 11:20pm PT
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Stoners highway
By the StonedMasters .....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 24, 2006 - 11:38pm PT
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speaking of stoned....
"WHO'S HOLDING THE ROPE??!
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Feb 24, 2006 - 11:45pm PT
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the purple t shirt is the clue.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 24, 2006 - 11:52pm PT
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Not a Stonemaster story, but that's how Neal, the guy with the black bar across his eyes in that guidebook photo earned his stripe. My buddy Galen was leading the first pitch of Stoners Highway when a volley of stones came down Middle and the bunch at the base bolted for shelter. Galen frantically downclimbed to clutch a bolt and saw Neal, his housemate and belayer, drop the rope (hip belay) and run for the bushes too. That moment of bad faith and abandonment led to months of psychological torture that eventually caused Neal to crack, move to San Francisco, and study law, leaving his climbing days behind.
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