The Eiger Mordwand

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 82 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ThebigLEBOWSKI

climber
grace
Aug 18, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
Into the "White Spider"
Into the "White Spider"
Credit: ThebigLEBOWSKI
ThebigLEBOWSKI

climber
grace
Aug 18, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Our equipment for the Eiger North Wall in winter
Our equipment for the Eiger North Wall in winter
Credit: ThebigLEBOWSKI
Michael Lecky

Mountain climber
Harvard, MA
Aug 18, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
There was a bit of doggerel about alpine frostbite, perhaps from Tom Patey's "One Man's Mountains":

Ten frozen fingers, ten frozen toes
The memory lingers, but the digit goes.

Ulysses S. Grant wrote that war is progressive. So is climbing. Will Eiger north face become a tourist route, like Whitney east buttress or the Whitney-Gillman route on Cannon? You tell me. Knock yourselves out, kids. I love reading about what you're doing.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Aug 19, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Aug 19, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Aug 19, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Aug 19, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane


TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Aug 19, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane

Credit: TomCochrane
squishy

Mountain climber
Sac town
Sep 2, 2011 - 11:48am PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFTtX9LerRA
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 2, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
Awesome bunch of pictures Tom Cochrane! The most unnerving was that bloody hitler bastard at the end. The first one, with the Finstraerhorn (SP?) in the background, shows what i believe is a peak called the Ochs. That particular north wall is a fearsome looking rig, something a bit like the north face of Alberta, which was climbed in the early 50's i believe. The climbing those guys were doing BITD never ceases to amaze me. I got chased off the eiger by storm in the eighties. crossing what little ground we managed was like treading on hallowed ground. We bivied at the swallows nest - an awesome perch! we then rapped off via the Don Whillans rap that avoids reversing the Hinterstosser, all food for thought. After i hiked up and had a look at the Ochs. Those guys were hard.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Sep 2, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
The most unnerving was that bloody hitler bastard at the end.

Picked up a copy of James Ramsey Ullman's "High Conquest - The Story of Mountaineering" last year from a fellow STer...



It was written in the 40s I think and attempted to tell the history of the Golden Age to that point. He certainly talks about the 30s assault on the Eiger. Therein, without 'naming names' so to speak, he really blasts Nationalism and the fatalistic 'the summit at any cost' attitude that seemed prevalent to him in those days.

He singled out German climbers for a particularly stinging rebuke. I can't seem to find the book right now, its somewhere, I know it damnit.

Anyway he makes the case we've all heard many times since - to be truly successful you have to make it back down, alive.

DMT

stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 2, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
Yeah, Heckmair doesn't look all that enthused to be meeting Hitler. As I recall he hated the whole propaganda parade. They chust vanted to climb, you know.
local1

Mountain climber
CH
Sep 4, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
The first one, with the Finstraerhorn (SP?) in the background, shows what i believe is a peak called the Ochs. That particular north wall is a fearsome looking rig (...)

It's called "Finsteraarhorn" and the peak below is the "Ochs" or "Klein Fiescherhorn". The north wall is called the "Fiescherhorn northwall". It is quite dangerous now because of the warmer temperature and ice melting whitch is causing rockfall.

more one topic: The Eiger northwall is right know "black" - now snow or ice in the 1st icefield, only a little ice on the 2nd icefield and on the white spider...really to warm and/or not enough snow...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 4, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
Thanks, Tom - were all those photos in the original German account of the climb?
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Sep 4, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
from the trashy book The Eiger Sanction (paraphrasing):

some person, addressing Hemlock: "Do you want scotch or bourbon?"

Hemlock: "Do you have Laphroaig?"

some person: "No."

Hemlock: "Then it doesn't matter."
michaeld

Sport climber
Near Tahoe, CA
Sep 5, 2011 - 02:14am PT
I literally just watched that last week. Awesome movie.

I was really glad when I didn't see any simul-climbing on separate bolted routes like in Vertical Limit.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 19, 2014 - 02:19pm PT

Anderl Heckmair interviewed - Mountain 16 (1971/72)
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 26, 2014 - 10:59am PT

A few Heckmair quotes from "My Life"

"Throughout my life when I came to a crossroads I always chose the path that led back to the mountains, even when a woman stood in the other road. Had I chosen otherwise, the course of my life would have been different. Perhaps I would have become a playboy, perhaps the adoptive son of a charming, influential French family. Perhaps...but that's not what happened."

"As a climber, the play of balance that affords such a marvelous feeling of freedom came naturally to me. I was never extravagant in my demands, being happy to make do with small holds. Yet the death of my two comrades had been a salutary and painful lesson. Even if you are lucky enough to have a sixth sense for the mountains, it still needs to be excercised, developed, and sharpened. The early, impetuous years are the most dangerous for a climber."

"What I could never understand was why climbers are so often judged according to the difficulty of the climbs they undertake, when there were so many other beautiful things to experience in the mountains. In this respect I owed a lot to my work, which gave me an eye and a taste for botany and geology. But even the roughest lads among us were sensitive to all the beauties of nature. I am convinced that it has always been so with the mountaineers and always will be."

On Yellowstone:
"We were not hell-bent on only climbing mountains, of course. Yellowstone National Park lay on our route and who could possibly drive past such a wonder of nature? We therefore traveled by Greyhound bus from Calgary to Livingston, where we hired a car to continue the journey via Gardiner to the park. Nowhere in the world are there so many natural marvels all gathered together in one place and easily accessible. The ground steams and puffs; there are not just hundreds but thousands of geysers, big and small, whole valleys of them."

The Eiger:
"I am often asked whether I would climb that route again. I cannot think of any reason why I would do so. I did not climb the North Face for prestige or glory, but for the experience it gave me. The record-breaking ascents of recent years do not interest me at all. There is an old poachers' saying that states, 'Freedom is to be found in the mountains.' The sentiment is equally applicable to mountain climbing. We should all be free to do as we please and to find personal pleasure as we see fit."

On adventure:
"How often I have returned from such travels with the fondest memories only to have the question come up, 'Will such a thing ever happen again?' Should I, at the age of 90-plus, close with 'Well, that was it'? Who knows? But at least it ends with a question mark."
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Jul 27, 2014 - 11:25pm PT
Tom,where on earth did you find the book? I must have a copy. I looked all night on the google to no avail. Help. Throw me a bone Tom! Any clue will help.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2014 - 11:50pm PT
Ron wrote:
Later that year the bodies (including those of Sedlemayer and Mehringer whose demise the year before had caused the naming of Death Bivouac) were recovered by guides.

Max Sedlmayr's body was found at the foot of the face by guides searching for the remainder of Hinterstoisser's party. But, Kark Mehringer's body was not found until 27 years later at the foot of the Second Icefield.
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