Have only 3 people redpointed every pitch of the nose?


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the Fet

Jul 18, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
@ Fet,
your logic here is discontinuous.
burke followed a portion of the climb but you give him credit for an ascent? because he led the pitch some other time?

I didn't give him credit for an ascent, I gave him credit for the original question posted: who has redpointed every pitch? But that was based on what I've read which was he redpointed the great roof, just not on the continuous ascent. But since Clint always has the best info and said SB hasn't redpointed the GR I'll agree it's down to 2 people who redpointed every pitch.

I'd like to know about Wilder's variation as well.

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Jul 18, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
What I have always wanted to know is if The Nose has been redpointed...period! I mean, the entire route redpointed in one push with no falls? That's what we used to call free climbing...you know, you can pretend afterwards that you would gave made it without the rope.

Not to demean Lynn Hill's awesome achievement, but to the best of my knowledge she did not redpoint the entire route. Has Tommy Caldwell...or anybody?

If not, this sure seems like THE PRIZE!!!

I could never figure out why Lynn did not do it...she certainly could gave..

Maybe she just got bored with the while thang...ya, that's it...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 19, 2011 - 01:38am PT
I just asked Matt Wilder about this, and he said that he did work a bit on something like a free alternative to the Jardine Traverse, but he never did it.
At around the same time, Matt freed (on toprope) a variation to the Changing Corners pitch.
So apparently Dean F may have gotten these 2 things slightly confused and thought Matt succeeded on finding a free alternative to the Jardine Traverse.

San Luis Obispo, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:12am PT

Jul 17, 2011 - 05:18pm PT

Enhancements and scars aside, it has YET to be freed.


So by this standard a route has only been free-climbed if it is climbed without resting at belays? i.e., free-soloed or simul-climbed

The definition of free-climbing is not standardized and the current popular accepted method of "free-climbing" includes resting on anchors at belays between pitches. Until this changes, the nose has been freed.

Jul 17, 2011 - 09:52am PT

The Jardine Traverse has been bypassed by Matt Wilder, there's Glue on the Last Pitch and Chipped Holds on the Traverse into Dolt Hole so the Route has been Enhanced. . .

Free-climbing always invloves some degree of taint, unless you are Yabo or Patrick Edlinger free-soloing butt naked...

Realistically someone could quite possibly climb the nose in a single push, without falling...then, The Nose, as a single route in its entirety could be called redpointed from ground to topout. Currently all pitches have been redpointed but the route has not seen a fall-free ascent. Let me be clear that I'm no less in awe of the achievements of the climbers who have freed the Nose.

The game of one-upmanship will always have someone saying, "Well they didn't..." in which case you could just keep picking away at the "taints" of each ascent until you got to...

an onsight, shoeless, free-solo, no chalk, no use of manufactured features like chips, glueds, or pin scars ascent...dare I say naked as well?
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